Upgrading my 2.0 E Motor

[domtoni]

Hi All,

My 2.0E has 72K miles on it. Most seals were changed (without rebuilding the motor) about 6 years ago, but the engine is still leaking between the left head and the engine itself. I was thinking of doing a complete restoration of the car (had someone do the car and it turned out to be a fraud operation) including an engine rebuild.

I always wanted more power. What's the easiest way to increase power. My thoughts were to add 2.4 barrels/pistons, S cam and keep the same crank. I realize the heads have to be modified and so does the MFI. The car already has SSI heat exchangers.

Any ideas what this would give in displacement and power?

Best
Dom

[gsjohnson]

I go with some E pistons and DC30 Mod Solex cams.

[Grady Clay]

Dom,

You still have a low miles (km), numbers matching, nice ol’ 911E.
Proceed carefully.

I would find a later/larger engine.
Buy another engine and carefully preserve your original 2.0E.
Easy are the 3.0/3.2 but not very original.
The most ‘like original’ would be a 2.7RS-like built with many 2.0E components.

Start with a 7R crankcase – the latest iteration of the 2.0-2.7 magnesium (lightweight) crankcases.
There are a few update modifications necessary.
The standard 2.4-2.7 crankshaft and connecting rods came in these engines.
The 2.7RS Mahle Nikasil (last forever) P&Cs are readily available and are price-competitive.
A good builder can get the CR up from 8.5:1 to somewhat above 9.0:1 if you want.
It will need MFI heads - original or converted but start with 2.2-2.7 (not 2.0).
Find a ‘good’-used 2.0 MFI system and bring it back to new and suitable for the larger displacement.
You can decide to retain 911E cams, change to 911S or one of the improved aftermarket cams.
This camshaft decision needs to precede the MFI pump, throttle body, etc. decisions.
Of course there is a bit more….

There are LOTS of discussion about these engines.
There is no mystery.
It is all very straightforward Porsche stuff.

You can use a 2.2 green 911E fan shroud for originality and add the 2.4-> oil cooler cover-duct to improve air flow to the engine oil cooler.
The ’69-only MFI pump front cover and solenoids will be original.
Add a 134 mm crankshaft pulley to add some engine cooling.
Everything else can appear as if it is a 2.0E. (My eye will spot the crank pulley and the distributor clamp.)

You will probably need a front engine oil cooler in the RF fender (wing).
Use the system from ’74-> with a full-fin cooler.
There are two Elephant Racing hose assemblies that will adapt to your 2.0 oil system.
Make provision to add a fan to the front cooler (for those August pulls up-hill in the Pyrenees or Alps ).


If you are inclined to store your 2.0 transmission, a ’70-’71 type 911/01 is a good choice.
You should ‘go through’ the transmission to ensure good functioning syncros and reliability.
This allows the use of the larger 225 mm clutch.
You have the opportunity to change gear ratios.


Even at 72K, what is the overall condition of the car after 42 years?
Rust?
Prior crash damage and repair?
Wear & tear?
How is the paint condition?
Have the 911E Hydromatic struts been replaced?
Are there suspension modifications you want to do?
What else?

It is very important to think-through the entire project before you commit to anything.
Our friends on DDK and here can help find the best places to do the work you choose to sub-contract.
In general, you want the best places and close enough for your personal supervision.

There IS rust in your 911.
It was already rusting at the Factory before it was painted.
It is still ‘rusting quietly’ as it sits.
You want to address the rust and rusting issue so it lasts your lifetime and more.
Spending a lot of money ($, €, ₤) only to have rust appear in a few years is not very satisfying.


The advantage of another engine and transmission are you can continue enjoying driving the 2.0E while the new engine (& transmission) are built.

Once a good plan is developed, I’m inclined to buy ALL the pieces and parts necessary first.
I like to have on-hand, everything to cover almost all situations.
No matter how well you plan, there will be unexpected, unforeseen problems to solve.
If that turns out you have extra parts after completion, Porsche parts are easy to sell.
One too few part can stop the project.

This is the start of a major process.
Be prepared.
‘Thought Experiments’ don’t cost anything.

Best,
Grady

[gsjohnson]

I missed the fact that you were starting with an E engine. Grady might have a better suggestion...if you've got the dough.

[domtoni]

Grady, and gsjohnson,

Thanks for the comments. Regarding my car, here are details:
- I had to replace the hydro struts in 1975 when one went flat. I bought an 1970S suspension from a friend. The car now runs 21/26 torsion bars and elephant racing poly bronze bushings.
- I had the car "restored" a few years back by a well known "expert". The job turned out to be an expensive blow over despite the quotation. UK law is different from US law and it was not worth any action against him. Here are some photos of the car on photobucket. Photos are free to view to all:
911 E Restoration pictures by domtoni - Photobucket
- I am happy to answer any questions about the car but for legal reasons, will do so by PM or email.
- My plan is to have the car done properly by two very well known and trusted experts here in the UK. One to disassemble, blast, deliver the car to the metal specialist, paint, and assemble the car. Part of my motivation is the rarity of early 911s that are still original.
- It would be nice to have more power, and some DDK guys have 2.3 and 2.5 twin plug engines, but I don't want to spend $40K. I'll bet the spec of Grady's engine will still be a good $25K.

Perhaps for the car's value, its best to leave the engine as it is. It runs well, just leaks a bit of oil. I would like the car to be as good as it can be for the future.

Best
Dom