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Bearings will be replaced ( while I'm there ). The " old " ones looks to be in good shape.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301849832.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301849850.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301849865.jpg |
What do you think ?
The measurements on the crankshaft , bearing size and condition , conrod weights and condition , etc , make me believe that this is not a rebuild that was stored for 15 years. Rather a low mileage engine that was pulled and sat on the shelf for years. |
Not sure what you took offense to, and why you are responding to such an old post, but he does that to everyone with an early engine- asking for numbers so he can catalog them. He is a respected member here and on the Early 911S Registry, and I am sure he did not mean to offend you.
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Errie,
What do I think? I also think “Very good news indeed!” “The measurements on the crankshaft , bearing size and condition , conrod weights and condition , etc , make me believe that this is not a rebuild that was stored for 15 years. Rather a low mileage engine that was pulled and sat on the shelf for years.” I agree. What will be your choice for P&Cs? How do your Iron cylinders and cast pistons measure? Are they in similar condition as the crankshaft? If you need to replace them, there are lots of choices. The best being the later technology Nikasil plated aluminum cylinders (These were in development for the 917 when your 911 was new). The set of 90 mm for the 2.7RS are relatively inexpensive and available with forged pistons. This would make your engine 66x90 = 2519 cc. The CR will be a bit below 8.5:1 (your ‘T’ are 8.6:1) unless you work that issue. This is a very nice mod if you need P&Cs. The case & heads need modification but that is easy when you have the valves done and case inserts installed. Now, one of the big issues will be sourcing bearings. The issue is the regulated lead content in bearing babbit alloy has changed. Many think to the detriment of longevity. This is probably worthy of a separate thread. Best, Grady |
Grady ,
I bought JE pistons and cylinders a while ago ( 86 mm ) which will give me 2300cc. At this stage I'm still not sure if I will use them , or use them on a on a 2.0 case that I have in my fast growing Porsche inventory. Old p&c's in same condition as rest of engine. I believe the case work will increase the compression ratio a bit. Parts have been arriving daily - 215 flywheel to match the 901 transmission , rod bolts , flywheel bolts , gaskets , turbo valve covers , etc. Gladly I have not ordered bearings. Which would you suggest ? Thanks !! |
As this is my first Porsche engine rebuild , I do not want to be too ambitious when it comes to making major changes. It will be years before I can try to match the big boys.
Looking at the technical aspects posted in the Pelican forums , I learned that I will have to crawl before I can walk. The expertise offered is amazing. My African safari ( leaving Thursday ) , will cause me to fall behind on my planned schedule. |
Don't shoot any Elephants- or if you do, don't post any videos. :rolleyes:
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Flieger ,
I will hunt daily - with my camera. |
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A man after my own heart. I also like animals- especially the fine big cats. |
I decided to make door panels myself.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301968091.jpg Covering for a backing - will be leather http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301968160.jpg Fibreglass enforced back - still needs sound deathening layer http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301968277.jpg |
If anybody fell over looking at my last photo , my appologies. I forgot to do the orientation correction.
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Errie,
Please include us Pelicans in your trip. You can make your Africa trip a vicarious one for all Pelicans. All it takes is day-by-day posts (yes, there is internet service in tourist Africa). My only experience is three weeks in Kenya. If you post, I’ll intersperse my pictures. I see you have discovered the advantage of being your own ‘salvage operation’. Having salvage gives you a wealth of unobtainable spare parts. Disassembling is the best education for restoration. Good for you. Best, Grady |
I also want to offer advice to other newbies like me.
Take time , research , and read this forum. If you fixed your girlfriend's vacuum cleaner , sprayed a Dodge with a rattle can , or other tasks that make you an expert , we are in the same boat - nowhere. We had a saying in Africa - " If you want to pee with the big dogs , you need to learn to lift your leg ". After a year of research and reading this forum , I still have all fours on the ground. |
Quote:
Anyone who can measure decimal 4-digits of a mm is a 3-leg Pelican. (That I want to see.) Best, Grady |
Africa trip
Grady,
I will post every now and again. As I lived in Africa for close to 40 years , we will avoid most of the tourist destinations. The places we will visit has not invent the wheel , or something to that effect. I also take my wife , son , his partner Liz , and my grandson ( little Errie - a very handsome young man ) , on this trip. As the leader, I will try my utmost to protect my clan , and refrain from fun like castrating crockodiles etc. I know this is a engine rebuilding forum , and I'm stepping out of line. This is a picture of us - Liz , my honey Sue , me , my son Stephan , and Errie II http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301971902.jpg |
Sandblasting the tin , and other parts , using a high pressure water blaster with an adapter to sandblast a sludge. A very practical and cost effective way of doing this when you live in an area where you have EPA concerns.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301975135.jpg |
I casting numbers on the case. 1967 2.2 ???
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302126737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302126791.jpg |
Does this mean these were casted the 50'th week of 1967 for use in a 1971 2.2 ? Or do I have my numbers all mixed up ? These are the same cases marked 901.101.101/102.3R.
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Back home after a wonderful trip in the bushveld.
Any replies on the casting numbers posted above ? |
IIRC the first one, 49 means that case half was cast on the 49th week and the other case half would be the 50th week.
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And the case should be a late 1970 build for the 1971 year model. Grady will know for sure.
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I think someone pulled too many beers from the vending machine.
With thse two casting dates on the same (probably original, well documented) engine, I would like to research other engines with close engine numbers. Perhaps 'Fritz' had one too many. The good news is the castings are just fine or would not have passed later (many) inspections. Best, Grady |
Thanks guys - now I can resume without concerns about the numbers. I was scared that Fritz or Heinz slipped a few Messerschmidt parts into the line after happy hour ( lunchtime )
:) |
Getting there
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311120038.jpg
Back from Ollie's in Havasu - dealing with George and Ike is a pleasure ! I was given a friendly trip of their shop , with explanations given on every process. |
Ollie's did all the needed - align bore to std , inserts , #3 spigot , valve job , reface heads , spot face thru bolts , oil bypass , clean oil squirters , and hottank.
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Slowly getting there - so many little things taking time. Cleaning , ordering and waiting for parts , cleaning , re-ordering parts that is out of stock , cleaning , etc.
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Back to the # 8 o-ring. I got a black o-ring , but see that orange o-rings are used. Are those the 4.5 mm , and the black the 4 mm ? If I mess up now , the rest of the build will be useless.
Help ! |
What is this ?
Is this part of the old # 8 seal ?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312560845.jpg I searched all available sources and came up blank. |
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Yes, that is probably the spring from the crankshaft nose seal.
Someone else must chime in on the size of the #8 main bearing O-ring. I’m in favor of dismantling for inspection any new or suspect oil pump. The key is to get it back together exactly correctly. While I see a case-half oil O-ring (green arrow), I don’t see the two for the oil pump (red arrows). This is one of the procedures that you do all or none. Is the O-ring under the oil pump? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312586060.jpg The chains should be on the sprockets. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/622226-chain-fell-off-intermediate-sprocket.html Best, Grady |
Sorry, I missed many months of updates here. The documentation of the engine is great! I agree that the casting dates appear to be weeks 49 & 50; the dots may indicate day of the week. There is very poor documentation of the casting dates on the magnesium cases. Some have them, and others do not. The format is quite varied as well.
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Thanks guys ! The above photo was taken with a test fit - oil pump seals and chains installed a bit later.
The oil pump was cleaned , inspected , cleaned , and installed. It took me 2 days of triple checking , making lists , counting washers and nuts , stressing , etc. before deciding to put the case together. I read Wayne's and Bruce Anderson's books countless times , watched Nick Fulljames on Youtube for hours , researched blogs on this forum , and got totally confused. For any 2 questions there were 20 different answers. My honey ( guess to get my "stuff" out of the living room ) volunteered her help , and the cases were mated an hour ago. My garage in the AZ weather is simply too hot. I took the middle road with sealants after deciding that the big boys have 20 options , and can appreciate that a racing engine needs some extra TLC. |
So much to do - so little time
Head studs installed using loctite red - measured to 135mm. New oil pressure pistons installed. Crankcase breather and thermostat installed. Waiting for oil pressure swich. Chain ramps installed. Waiting for double crank pulley - AC is a must in AZ. Pistons fitted in cylinders - after making sure rings are orientated correctly. Although machine work was done by the reputable Ollie's , and new cylinder base gaskets were included , I decided to do a deck hight measurement. This is 1.37 mm - in limits. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313542999.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313543082.jpg |
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Errie,
Looks like you're doing a great, careful job (weighing the multitude of opinions), and enjoying the process. Not far from done! Remind me (us) what the car's condition is? Waiting and ready to receive the engine? Best, Mike |
Mike - the car still needs a total redo. Hope to do that this winter.
I have bought floor pannels , suspension pan , tank support , etc. This will be fitted on a rotisserie , as I expect to find some other suprises underneat that needs attention. As the car started out as a 912 , I will also need parts like engine mounts , lots of electrical work , cv changes , to name a few. Like most Pelicans this is a passion for me , and the slow progress is caused by me wanting to do everything myself. |
Errie, Great thread on your engine assembly. One thing I see odd is the lack of threads showing on the connecting rod bolt after your torque down. That might be just the camera angle but you stated that it was just before case half's going together.
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Mark - that is why I joined this forum !
These are new bolts , torqued to spec. I will split the case again , and install new bolts as this does not look like a camera angle issue. I will keep you updated Thanks for your help ! This would have been a fiasco. |
The bolts are VERBUS 129 , and I found an earlier thread where Wayne et all. discussed this issue.
What advice from the Pelican experts ? I am going to start a bbq fire , and have a few cold ones while awaiting replies. This day turned out different than planned. Visual inspection shows all the nuts showing the same thread - about 2 mm. The peer review on this forum is priceless !! |
Are they 2.0 bolts in 2.2 rods?
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