Damn! Is that in your living room?

Yes sir - and the wife has to keep in spotless as I do not want any dust or other contaminants on the engine :)

:cool: :cool: :cool:

Still sealed -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316130716.jpg

lol

Head nut washers
 

:mad: Ordered and received washers , added to my inventory of " might work in future builds " , formerly know as " received the wrong stuff again ".

Does anyone out there have 4 head nut washers for a 1971 911 T ?SmileWavy

Out of frustration I tried to double up on washers , but that leads to one camshaft harder to turn than the other ( with std washers ) . Must be a torque issue.

I would replace those tensioner arms with the wider style, they are expensive new
but if you're any good with a lathe you could make a wide bushing/spacer combination.
Alternatively Henry at Supertec converts them.

andy

Try Tom Butler (tom1394racing)

He seems to have a pretty deep stash of basic engine parts.

andy

Andy - that is the logic route. Will look into it.

On the other hand , I got a deadline to move my sh%t out of the house. Hard words from my woman who got tired of hospital standards and letting her friends in through the garage door.

That might give Landon the change to move his sh%t into my living room .

An engineer's wife told him if he goes to the supermark to buy a pint of milk , and if they have eggs , to buy six. He got home with 6 pints of milk , because they had eggs.

And I already received these.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316141063.jpg

You seem to be doing a real nice job on this engine, you can always build
it with the parts you have and replace them later. The tensioners were
always a weakness in these engines and the complete fix involves
switching to the wide idler arms.

andy

Agreed - but one has to decide when to replace all the parts ( buy a factory motor part by part ) , or take a calculated risk and use parts that has been inspected and falls into the technical criteria and specs.

I do not have a budget on this , but the learning curve is priceless.

Thanks for your reply

Errie Kruger

BTW- Go Springboks ! Never earned the yersey , but represented Northern Transvaal at school level , and South East ( now Pumas ) late 70's/early 80's

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316152137.jpg

Just to make sure - Loctite

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316152203.jpg

New chain ramps and some cleaning


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316203102.jpg




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316203180.jpg

Installing the new chain ramps was not as easy as the books make it sound -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316220771.jpg

Smooth sailing for too long. One of the few places that I re-used bolts , and one broke with hand turning. Might be a blessing in disguise - will replace them all after drilling this out. Using magnets to make sure no metal ends up in engine.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316220842.jpg

PITA

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316279112.jpg

Back in business - new bolts and gasket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316279188.jpg

The left camshaft still too tight - Tom Butler saved me , and washers on their way. I hope that is the problem , otherwise I will take the left bank off and start again. Releasing the torque on cylinder # 2 head nuts , releases the crank. That is the cylinder I doubled up on washers - never thought it would have such a impact. I can still hand turn the shaft , but the right shaft turns freely.

I decided to lovingly name my engine after Rincewind's ( a caracter by Terry Pratchet ) camel - You Bastard. Very applicable , and earned over the last few days.

I would like to inspect my cylinder decks on the left side - as this was machined , I did not double check. Is it possible to remove and re-install the camtowers and heads as a unit ? That way I do not have to break the 574 seal between camtowers and heads.

Yes you can. A lot of engine builders prefer this method.

Thanks Mark - will do. It might only be the washers , but while waiting for them and having the time , I decided to go back to the drawing board.

I appreciate the feedback and PM's from the Big Dogs - you guys make this forum what it is. I do not know what the stats are , but guess +95% of the readers of this forum are people like me.

Keep the dream alive !

Cam tower squirters
 

Took the tower and left bank off - and decided to clean the camtower squirters again - the Venturi principle in a simple homemade setup. Cut a piece of plastic tubing ,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309465.jpg

Used Crazy glue and the always present duct tape to seal it and added a high pressure connection.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309555.jpg

Connect it to the camtower using the standard connection and to the air compressor


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309638.jpg


Spraying WD40 into the top with the air compressor running -
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309709.jpg

I did not test the vacuum , but was amazed of how much sucktion it has , and how efficient it is.

Gave the right bank the same treatment - as you can see I'm moving closer to the garage.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316325736.jpg

But still IN the House and still Married. Lucky you. Keep it going Errie.

I am lucky indeed , but also use persuasion in the form of 14ct gold ;) - making my build very expensive.

LOL - consider it "overhead".

I removed the left bank , the # 2 cylinder , and added a 0.25 ( 0.2 ) mm copper base gasket . Torqued down again ( still using the stacked washers ) and the problem camshaft turns like a dream !!!

Before closing up , I will still install the std washers.

I am relieved and concerned.

Mr. Woodruff must have had a sick sense of humor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316474738.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316474814.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316474906.jpg

You must be talking about the camshaft woodruff keys. They can be fun sometimes.
You caught my attention when you added another "or removed" the old .25mm cylinder base shim on #2. Then installed a .20mm shim? If you had all your engine case cylinder spigots decked/checked at the machine shop then you would only use the same size cylinder base shim all around. You don't want to have one cylinder .20mm higher, or is it .05mm lower, than the others right? Maybe I missing something. If the cam was tight, and by changing a cylinder base shim to a different size than the others made it free up, there might be a problem with the cam tower. Just my opinion.

Mark - that is why I stated that I'm relieved and concerned.

The machine shop gave me 1 mm copper shims to compensate for the work they did. Using them , # 2 cylinder ( with the odd washers ) caused the cam to be tight.

I decided to do an experiment by adding a 0.25mm ( believe they are really 0.20 mm ) shim to the # 2 cylinder on top of the 1 mm - torqued it down , and the cam spins freely.

Maybe it is an optical illusion but is the idler sprocket on the left cam fitting the chain like it is supposed to? From this angle it looks like it is not fitted properly.

Left side will be removed again and cam tower taken to the machine shop -

ic

Good job with it so far Errie.

A dry run on the left side. I will redo everything after camtower was inspected / machined.

Yes, somethings not right. Did you check all the cylinder heights to be exactly the same? Heads all surfaced the same depth? Same size from cam tower deck to cylinder seat? Also the engine case cylinder spigots surfaced all the same depth? Just a few important things to have checked.

Will get the machine shop to help me - putting me back a few weeks. I did not double check their work , and also believe ( and hope ! ) it is the cam tower.