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I would like to inspect my cylinder decks on the left side - as this was machined , I did not double check. Is it possible to remove and re-install the camtowers and heads as a unit ? That way I do not have to break the 574 seal between camtowers and heads.
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Yes you can. A lot of engine builders prefer this method.
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Thanks Mark - will do. It might only be the washers , but while waiting for them and having the time , I decided to go back to the drawing board.
I appreciate the feedback and PM's from the Big Dogs - you guys make this forum what it is. I do not know what the stats are , but guess +95% of the readers of this forum are people like me. Keep the dream alive ! |
Cam tower squirters
Took the tower and left bank off - and decided to clean the camtower squirters again - the Venturi principle in a simple homemade setup. Cut a piece of plastic tubing ,
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309465.jpg Used Crazy glue and the always present duct tape to seal it and added a high pressure connection. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309555.jpg Connect it to the camtower using the standard connection and to the air compressor http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309638.jpg Spraying WD40 into the top with the air compressor running - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316309709.jpg |
I did not test the vacuum , but was amazed of how much sucktion it has , and how efficient it is.
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Gave the right bank the same treatment - as you can see I'm moving closer to the garage.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316325736.jpg |
But still IN the House and still Married. Lucky you. Keep it going Errie.
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I am lucky indeed , but also use persuasion in the form of 14ct gold ;) - making my build very expensive.
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Quote:
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I removed the left bank , the # 2 cylinder , and added a 0.25 ( 0.2 ) mm copper base gasket . Torqued down again ( still using the stacked washers ) and the problem camshaft turns like a dream !!!
Before closing up , I will still install the std washers. I am relieved and concerned. |
Mr. Woodruff must have had a sick sense of humor.
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You must be talking about the camshaft woodruff keys. They can be fun sometimes.
You caught my attention when you added another "or removed" the old .25mm cylinder base shim on #2. Then installed a .20mm shim? If you had all your engine case cylinder spigots decked/checked at the machine shop then you would only use the same size cylinder base shim all around. You don't want to have one cylinder .20mm higher, or is it .05mm lower, than the others right? Maybe I missing something. If the cam was tight, and by changing a cylinder base shim to a different size than the others made it free up, there might be a problem with the cam tower. Just my opinion. |
Mark - that is why I stated that I'm relieved and concerned.
The machine shop gave me 1 mm copper shims to compensate for the work they did. Using them , # 2 cylinder ( with the odd washers ) caused the cam to be tight. I decided to do an experiment by adding a 0.25mm ( believe they are really 0.20 mm ) shim to the # 2 cylinder on top of the 1 mm - torqued it down , and the cam spins freely. |
Maybe it is an optical illusion but is the idler sprocket on the left cam fitting the chain like it is supposed to? From this angle it looks like it is not fitted properly.
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Left side will be removed again and cam tower taken to the machine shop -
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ic
Good job with it so far Errie. |
A dry run on the left side. I will redo everything after camtower was inspected / machined.
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Yes, somethings not right. Did you check all the cylinder heights to be exactly the same? Heads all surfaced the same depth? Same size from cam tower deck to cylinder seat? Also the engine case cylinder spigots surfaced all the same depth? Just a few important things to have checked.
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Will get the machine shop to help me - putting me back a few weeks. I did not double check their work , and also believe ( and hope ! ) it is the cam tower.
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