A moment of (possible) inspiration this evening;

Whilst contemplating how to mount the switches for boost control and traction control, I initially thought I'd had a Eureka moment when I was looking through the PET for the switches used on the HVAC CCU; a nice match, especially if I order 2x of the knobs used for fan speed rather than the temp adjust.

Then....whilst pondering how to make a faceplate up that looks nice, as well as printing of the legends in the correct font, size and spacing, it dawned on me that I should simply buy the binnacle used on the Carrera 4 models; 2 x rotary switches, one for the 4WD setting, the other for the rear wing manual lifter. (thanks to the other Pelicanite whose pic I pinched a few mins ago) --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...TCampBoost.jpg

I also think I know who could screen print an overlay decal that will have the legends I need. I'll be asking him on Monday ;)

My concerns about this option are mainly around how easily the TC and boost setting can be accidentally changed; there looks to be an LED warning lamp between the 2 switches - that could potentially be used to indicate the Spinal Tap 11 setting. I had wondered whether to make the traction control switch a key operated unit, making it a conscious decision to turn it down or off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...21at010802.png

Blimey, so, where do I start with todays update?!

I guess the simple items first....

Went across to Simon @ Sileck at lunchtime, who quickly made up a new +Ve power feed cable for the loom; A consequence of me changing my mind with the routing, meant that the short 6" long feed was nowhere near. A new 550mm (nothing like mixing units..) section is now in the workshop, also shrouded with fibreglass braided sleeving to give it some abrasion resistance, not that it should need it, but looks nicer in black rather than white.

New gasket for the smaller of the two Deutsch MIL connectors is also now with me, ready for installing onto the new bracket.

The auxiliary loom for the boost control, traction control, boost gauge and warning lamp o/p is also now with Simon, measured up and ready for making over the Xmas/NY break.

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The items currently with my plating shop, Butterworths in Ramsgate, are apparently going to be ready for collection in the morning. Did have fingers crossed that John would get these done before their Xmas shutdown, and Gord-luv-im it looks like he will. This is really useful, can get a load of things finished on the engine.

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Spoke to my pal Brian who owns 911 Spares, just down the road from me. He reckons he will have the Carrera 4 dual switch assembly (mentioned above) for the centre console. Fantastic! I can then get that over to Simon, who will re-engineer the electrical parts, remove the old rotary switches and replace with the ones we need for TC and Boost. These will also need a resistor network building and potting onto whatever switches we decide to use. Fiddly and messy job; Simon's just the man ;) :D

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Busy time in the workshop the last couple of evenings, designing and making the brackets for wheel speed sensors. As previously described, the rear sensors are to go onto the gearbox. After much filing, turning, cutting and drilling, this is what I've come up with so far.....

In the 4-jaw to bore the hole for the HE sensor....pretty nerve-wracking, with it being a right-angle piece flying around; no erroneous movement of the saddle or it'll be a very big, and expensive bang --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF11C8BE07.jpg

A roughed-out bracket for trial fitting --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BA66EA8087.jpg

The LHS assy finished. A spacing collar will sit between the sensor and the bracket, to set the 1mm gap we need to the trigger wheel. Not made that yet, want to get the proper wheels rather than guess it on my cardboard mockup --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DE75EEC880.jpg

What you can't see in the pics is that the mounting faces on the underside, are relieved by about 2mm to accommodate the lug stand-off. The backside of the bracket then sits against the diff plate, preventing any movement, and also means I don't run out of stud length when bolting it up onto the diff plate studs.

Time tonight to scratch my head over the RHS item....which initially looked quite complex purely because there aren't many options, and the webs of the gearbox casing limits the HE sensor position. I was going to go with a dual tube option and a piece of plate ally bridging them, with the HE sensor mounted in-between....then I just thought about keeping it even simpler, shorter and probably more rigid, per below --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3923C3443E.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E99319BF8C.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DBEF1FCFC5.jpg

Clearly it's not finished yet; the plan is to bore the cylindrical mount to the OD of a cap head allen bolt. This will be to a depth -2 or -3mm from the bottom and the cap head will replace the M8 stud. Cylindrical wall thickness should then be about the same as the plate holding the sensor. The base of the cylinder needs tapering to sit cleanly on the gearbox face, it's just a tad too large on the OD. The plate will then be welded onto the cylinder, and will *just about* clear the g'box case with the wires, whilst still giving me 0-3mm adjustment from the OD of the timing wheel. Because the plate will be welded eccentrically onto the cylinder, rotating the assembly will allow me to get the timing wheel centred to the sensor.

And finally.......

...I received an email this evening my the guy who's turning my brainwave into a reality for the boost gauge. I'm super excited....anything to do with watches or watch-like stuff....

Now my little secret can be revealed - I don't know of anyone else who's done this, certainly for a 964, but also perhaps for any air-cooled 911. The guy I'm working with would know for sure if another 964 had this, and to the best of his knowledge, this is #1!

This is something we've been discussing for about 18mths now, so I finally got around to ordering a Stack Pro-Control Boost Gauge. The trouble is, as you may be able to tell, I don't like stuff to look too after market. The easiest thing in the world would be to make up a donut to mount a 52mm gauge into the space where the clock currently mounts. But there's so many things wrong with doing that...

- Font is wrong
- Too small
- It has Stack printed all over it
- Wrong hands....

So, much as I like the clock in the 964, something has to give. However....you can't just bin the clock, as it has a 12/13 warning lamps on the circumference. Which got me wondering, would it be possible to build the electronics of the Stack into the housing of the clock, and still retain the warning lamps?...Hmmm....I know a man who can ;)

As you can see, it looks like he's done a stellar job. I think it's sent him quite potty, and it's certainly not the work of 5 minutes...EVERYTHING needed changing or making....even the glass has been a challenge; can't use 3mm per the originals, has to be 2mm....then finding somebody who can drill in the 2 holes for the programming and peak-recall buttons. And then, right at the final hurdle, the glass broke on final assembly! A quick re-ordering and another go at assembly, and it's now safely secured. Gaskets were custom made, the actuators for the buttons needed to be longer, then he had to think about exposing the Stack harness out the back, then make a screen printed face, correct font, spacing, legends for the warning lamps, etc.....then re-work one of the clock hands so it was the correct length and can be actuated by the stepper motor of the Stack......

....and you can see my point, yes?

The Stack unit itself is the best of the 3 they market; loads of tech, stepper motor, peak recalls, programmable, will flash different backlighting colours to warn of overboost (and vacuum), even has data output should you want it (I don't). Really nice bit of kit.

I'm not sure whether we've been able to retain the original backlighting of the clock, so that it matches the other gauges with the sidelights/headlights on....perhaps not, it was such a squeeze getting it all in, that I wouldn't be surprised if something had to make way.

Going to try and get there tomorrow and collect it. It's not finally finished yet, but these are some almost-finished pics he's sent me. The warning lamps are just about visible on the periphery; clearly the original clock had the legends pushed right out to the outside of the face, with the lamps in-between each hour baton, but we can't do that, the boost batons would sit on top of the lamp windows --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stgauge008.jpg

Before anyone asks, yes, I am also keeping the sender for the onboard computers boost display, but these are notoriously slow-witted and not that accurate. Plus, if i remember correctly, they only read up to 1.0bar.

Do we like? :D:D

I made a wheel speed input for one of my cars... much more cave man than yours

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...l-img_0005.jpg

Yep, does the trick though, eh? The Keep It Simple philosophy.

I sent a couple of pics to my pal at SBD whilst mid-way through making it, as they're going to be doing the CAD drawings and getting the wheels water cut....I commented that what should've been a 1-2hr piece of work has now taken almost 10!

If I had a decent welder (mine's rubbish) and could weld (I can't...not well), I would've for sure made this out of steel and plated it - could've done it all in-situ, but trying to use The Force and ensure it sits mm perfect is a pain in the butt.

It's going to be a great day. Just been over to collect the plated and anodised parts from Butterworths, and yet again, they've excelled themselves.

Both John and I were a little uncertain just how well the ally parts would come out. There was absolutely no chance of getting them turned around this side of Xmas if I'd have wanted them polished before anodising, so we decided to go with the brushed finish I'd done....apart from using polishing mops, soaps and/or polishing compound, this was as good as you're likely to get, finished off with some very fine Scotch-Brite pads. I was hoping that it'd come out with the same level of sheen as the intercooler, as I asked Chris to not make it too blingy; functional, but not quite "military" matt.

The latest batch of parts has come out exactly as I was hoping - perfect, nor surface imperfections....they almost looks like professionally made parts!

Before ---->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9D78B93D8F.jpg

After --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FC70F9B668.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DFBFC924B7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B6B47BC5AF.jpg

Throttle linkage --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1C71F0BD74.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ED2C6B1E93.jpg

Now, those that have done this before will know (and Roland certainly will), that anodising welded parts is very quite a tough thing to do, depends heavily on the weld rods being used, as to how well it works with the anodising dyes. As you can see, the welds do look slightly different in shade, but frankly I'm not worried about this (and couldn't have done much about it anyway), as it's a hidden part under the intake manifold.

Time to start building up the parts....back soon.

Nice parts :)

Just enjoying your work. Nice done so farSmileWavy

BTW, I know about the issues with welds on parts to anodize, but havent made my own expierences yet.

Thanks guys!

Here's some pics of the throttle assembly now built-up --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3CA0E81C21.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...498B1E5906.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C04FDEBBFB.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...b5e79f0329.jpg

That is such awesome work!!! I know that once this work is completed.....and if I had the oportunity, I would spend all day checking out all those mechanicals. Wow!

Thanks Dave, very kind of you!

Quick evening update....

Despite me assembling the eThrottle earlier it needed to come apart again, in order to install it under the intake manifold. Can't quite finish it tonight, as I need to machine some M8 nylocs a little thinner so that they lock. Too late and noisy to fire up the lathe, but it's in place now (hell, I hope the eGas throttle unit actually fits - sure I tried it a dozen times ages ago, but the angle of the pic has got me thinking...) -->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...47193C27E4.jpg

The exhaust gas temperature sensors are now both installed with the newly plated female-female adapters and anodised bracket --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC4F808780.jpg

All the ignition amplifiers are now mounted, along with the heat transfer compound - God I hate this stuff, it always goes absolutely everywhere and is a swine to get off again, so due care given. Glad I got the M4 screws glad pass plated, just a little more factory looking and discrete --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...729AD01CFD.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D937FEF4D7.jpg

And looking (IMO) quite stock-like once everything's in place - where there was once an EZ69....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5BF34A024A.jpg


The MIL connectors are also now screwed into place for the final time....so chuffed with how these have turned out....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1EE57A24C4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...96B4874CC3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AA68E8CAAB.jpg


Finally, I did get to collect the new Stack-VDO boost gauge....very pleased with it, Julian @ Reap Automotive Design has done an excellent piece of work. Next job is to sleeve and terminate the new harness that exits the rear of the gauge; another job for Simon @ Sileck....

Todays update....

The wheel speed sensors for the gearbox are now finished. The tube that mounts onto one of the case studs was bored out leaving a 5mm thick flat base. I had a change of plan; I did find a couple of genuine Porsche M8 studs in the box of bits, slightly longer than the stock one on the 'box.....but to would've meant making the ID too large to accommodate a 13mm socket, to tighten the nut. So, it was bored to the OD of a washer, and I'll use a cap head M8 bolt instead.

The base is also now tapered so it sits square onto the casing --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7DC50271B3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...59BBEC2EF5.jpg


The sensor plate is also now tidied up, reduced to size and polished --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74DB8E66F2.jpg


Unfirtunately, I'll have to now wait until the New Year until I can get Pete to weld it up, but it'll now look like this ---->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C09D8B93C7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF984D16B8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CB400E5162.jpg


So, turning my attention back to the throttle linkage - thankfully the eGas potentiometer does fit - complete optical illusion and late night paranoia on my behalf!

I found some nice M8 stainless Nylocs that I must've bought back in the summer for the Lotus (daren't fit anything other than stainless on that car!) - perfect, I can reduce the depth on these without worrying about compromising any plating.

So, with a little lateral thinking about how to mount them squarely in order to remove material, I came up with this solution...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B152412232.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C231095CED.jpg

...using a parallel to set in into the 3-jaw chuck. A little chamfering on the new face, some de-burring and they work like an absolute bloody charm! The engine studs just protrude a smidge through the nylon section.

Almost finished installing the eGas pot (not easy - one of the bolts is a nightmare to get to), and the adjacent fuel line is now secured out of the way of any abrasion risk using stainless rubber lined p-clips.

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And now it's time to down tools and spend time with the Family...Merry Christmas folks!

Just some small updates this evening; bit of a late start so got some finishing jobs done:

The RHS wastegate is now plumbed in again, now that the hoses are finally run through the RHS tinware.

Finished the throttle linkage install; the rear cap head screw for the eGas pot was an absolute pain - really hoping that this never needs changing. In fact (note to self) wondering whether to swap out the cap heads for hex heads so I can at least get a ratchet ring spanner on them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...163866598D.jpg


Routing and securing of the rear of the harness, plus running the head temp, cam position and crank position sensor wires through the tinware. Because the engines mounted on the basket, I can't finish installing the tinware itself, but have been able to juggle the position of each cable, and now wire up the throttle pot. Still looks like a birds nest....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...42FAF7BC19.jpg

Whilst in a wiring frame of mind, I've now decided where to mount the K-Type thermocouple plugs. I really hate these basic, non-automotive, non-locking connectors, but they are what they are; it's the only approved connection that will allow an easy disconnect, should that be necessary....but quite pleased with their position - one on the LHS sensor bracket, the other RHS one next to the EGP sensor -->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E1850D6022.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7CC1F73F8B.jpg


And finally, a quick swap over of the grounding cable. Nice new item, genuine Porsche so that the correct ring terminals are fitted, with the correct angles. New bolt/washer, then sprayed with waxoyl to prevent moisture ingress (most boring photo ever, but proof it was done!) --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...cb73de2df7.jpg


Next job is to finish the intercooler mounting bracket stand-off pillar, and get the IC safely mounted back on the engine. For some reason, when inserting the 2 helicoils into the newly anodised pillar, the last coil has slipped downwards when breaking off the driving tab. Will probably need to drill them out on the lathe and re-do. Grrr.

Just a very small update - well, more of a helpful tip or anyone with the same challenge as I had. Thanks to the guys on Practical Machinest for this one....

To extract the helicoil, I found an old drill bit that was a tad smaller than the ID used to drill and tap for the coil, then re-ground it with a reverse leading edge, and used it as a screwdriver to undo the helicoil, the taper of the drill bit ensuring it didn't slip. Simple:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...83A3F170BC.jpg

....2mins later and the blighters were back out and the anodised part completely undamaged. This had been niggling me this last few days, in the way that those supposedly easy 2min jobs do, when they don't turn out to be 2min jobs!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...829BE67B3B.jpg

You can see the last thread where it had sprung out of it's external holding thread. I was either being a pansy and not being sharp enough with the blow to the tang removal tool, or I was being ham-fisted and whacked it too hard. Either way, new ones in place, a short-sharp-blow to the tang removal tool, and we're good again.

Once my daughters in bed this evening, I can then get the IC mountings aligned for the final time.

The next job will be to start mocking up some heat shields for the turbo. I don't want to fit a turbine thermal jacket - not heard good things about them over on the Turbo forum, as they seem to trap too much heat in the unit, potentially damaging the impeller bearings. However, I don't want all that heat radiating freely to the tinware and inside of the bumper.

My idea at the moment, is to use the gold reflective tape to stick on the underside of the tinware, then use some of the Nimbus corrugated aluminium sheet (as they use on my Lotus) to form a box section around the turbo itself, and also possibly as a simple shield that sits between the silencer and the tin. Depends how many cereal boxes I can muster!

I am looking fwd to seeing how you handle the heat shielding. I might copy that.

Merry Christmas.

Continue like that Spencer, you work great well! ;-)

For some reason, it just wasn't happening today - not in the groove for some reason. Anyway, got a few bits done and others started.

I noticed that where the RHS wastegate pipes run under the AC pump assembly, the edge of the mounting bracket looks like it was a potential chafe area:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...47BF51E7A1.jpg

So, a quick removal of the whole unit, some die grinding and filing, and it's now got a nice radius and is safe to sit against the hoses. Only a small detail, but it's the sort of issue that will strike later on and be an absolute sod to try and track down.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...807E91E4C6.jpg


The starter motor and a new clutch slave cylinder are also now fitted to the gearbox. I had the common 964 "sticky clutch pedal" before the project. I know it can either be the hose to the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder itself or the pedal assembly. I've also got a new hose, so that's 2 of the 3 possibles changed....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4B85B4A2F7.jpg

And it means I can now eyeball the new +Ve cable that Simon made for me last week - it should be perfect, and I'll use the same 90deg brackets that the reverse switch uses (removed in these pics, for replating)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BC93FF7842.jpg


And I've also started to make the template for the heat shield that'll sit behind and over the turbo, as well as behind the silencer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7B3C357D2D.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C3F3EC1496.jpg


Finally, whilst making the above template, I bolted up the silencer with the new Lambda sensor.....arse.....clearance issue. Of course, I didn't have this problem before, as the previous tinware was so moth-eaten, that the top of the Lambda sat in fresh air. Not this time, it fouls the new, freshly coated tin. Dammit, time to cut a decent sized relief, to cater for any fine tuning of the silencer alignment --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3A71E5282C.jpg

Now, as it happens, yes it's a complete pain that it now needs to go for re-coating (had I known before, I could've taken it along a few weeks ago with the RHS tin...hindsight), but I was probably going to have to drill a few more small holes into the top for mounting the Nimbus material. At least I can get them protected as well, once all trial fits have been finished.

Hopefully I'll feel a little more enthusiastic tomorrow, and get that cardboard template finished, then onto the front wheel speed sensors.

A roll of gold reflective tape and a sheet of Nimbus Lite has now been ordered.

A load of metal stock has also now been ordered; I need to make two top-hat caps to go into the end of the stub shafts on the front uprights - will post some pics later when I get started. I also need to make 4x blanking plugs for the wastegates, as I'm now not using water to cool them (yet), but neither do I want them open to the UK elements. They're M8x1.0 - next to impossible to buy a bolt with metric fine thread, so have ordered a length of 13mm AF hex stainless and an M8 die, and will make some.

Have also ordered a length of ally hex in 19mm AF, to make a blanking plug for where a temp sensor (or was it a pressure switch?) used to mount on the chimney housing plate. For the time being I've put an old temp sensor (from the timing chain covers) in to plug the hole and stop ingress.

It's the position of the red circle (photo pinched from another thread I was searching earlier) --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1300942852.jpg

Now, last night when I was trying to ascertain the thread, it came up very close to 9/16 UNF.....but for the life of me, I can't fathom why two German manufacturers would put an imperial thread in there....and reading elsewhere, I'm now thinking it's probably M14 x 1.5.

The sensor measures up as 13.84mm @ 1.5mm pitch or 0.544" @ 18tpi (9/16 UNF = nominal OD of 0.5625")....both options are very close.

Before I go and order another die, could somebody confirm for me pls? Thanks in advance...

A stroke of luck today - Pete the welder was in the workshops, so quickly dashed over to get the wheel speed sensor bracket welded. After some cleaning up, it'll come up great.

Also started work on the rear bumper - only because the weather was lovely and was able to get it outside to work on. What was going to be a simple bracket swap....(the old ones are pretty shot, to say the least!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C10342F081.jpg


....has now turned into another sub-project. I had some left-over foil fronted heat matting from the Westfield, so although the rear bumper on the 964 does have some heat shielding in place, it's not the best - just basic aluminium with foil stuck to the bodywork side. There are also a couple of the mounting bolts that have pulled through, so they need repairing. Thankfully, despite some major galvanic reaction, all 5 bolts came out without shearing, and I'll stick on the matting to further enhance the heat management.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...91317D7F23.jpg


The turbo shield is pretty laughable; with some of the Nimbus material that I've have surplus, I'll remake this item with more enclosed sides. It does mount nicely onto the brackets (I'm replacing) though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2519771304.jpg


Some remedial work needs to be done on the bumper itself though; looks like one of the exhaust tips has at some point been wrongly located, and has damaged some of the paintwork.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9445C0EAB6.jpg


Also, the metal strip that's riveted to the black trim is very much in need of powder coating....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1845E91FD0.jpg

So, another few items to add to the list, but worth spending the time on it now. At some point I'll get my pal Shaun to repaint the bumper; it's "ok", perhaps an 8/10, but the seams where the two corner parts join to the centre section are showing signs of poorly applied paint. Have got plenty of paint left over from the engine lid work, so it won't be too much of a chore to get it done once the engine work is complete (there's a good chance that the bumper will need to be removed a couple of times anyway - risk of damage).

Back later this evening with another update.