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Yes, I did get email mate, I'll shoot you one back, probably tomorrow when I'm on the train into Town....want to get this build down on paper before I start forgetting stuff, lol. (No, no Spenny_B garage, haha....much as I would love to do this full-time, I can't help feeling that the fun goes right outta the window when you're up against deadlines and other peoples attitudes to a proper job and the "good enough" syndrome) Watch this space.... |
A little more head work
One little snag-ette I found, was the variation in the cylinder fire-ring channel depths, which manifested itself by the heads not sitting down onto the cylinder; being held off by the thickness of the fire ring.
Now, folk may be asking why I'm even running with fire-rings. If you remember back to the sorry episode with the fit-for-(s)crap Capricorn cylinders a certain somebody tried shafting me with, I needed to have my heads machined to be able to work with the fire-ringed Capricorns. Then they were returned, but of course I'm left with heads that are ringed, and so the Nickies then also needed to be machined to work with my heads. Clear? Great.... Anyway back on track...Not sure why the variation in channel depth, but the quickest way to fix (bearing in mind I’m in the UK) was to alter the fire rings. I ended up making a mandrel so that I could mount them in the lathe. Too thin to grip in/on the chucks internal/external jaws, and not ferrous enough to hold down on a surface grinder. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/87256da3.jpg Made it so that each ring needed to be heated first for a friction fit onto the mandrel, but worked fine for removing anywhere between 0.1mm and 0.3mm from the face of each. This now gives me 0.1mm clearance for each ring within the cylinder/head channel. All checked, and all seating nicely now. |
Whilst down at SB Developments, I also turned myself a gudgeon pin spring clip insertion tool.....and sincere apologies for the blatant plagiarism of the Stomski Racing one :eek: but I kinda needed it straight away over the May Day Bank Holiday w/e.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/93479c7a.jpg More progress; the rods were installed onto the crank - all using my stretch gauge, no guesswork here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/a0e17f66.jpg Then time for some more checking. Conscious that Chris @ TK had highlighted a possible issue with oil pump seal thickness, it made sense at this stage to do a plasticine (well, Blu-Tak) assembly, and see if my Victor Reinz items would be suitable. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/a684078a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/86d342de.jpg The plasticine dimensions I got were: RH Case feed = 7.96mm LH Case feed = 8.68 -> 8.75mm LH Case scavenge = 8.76 -> 8.85mm Case bridging seal = 8.51 -> 8.65mm The green LH case seals I got in the gasket kit ranged between 9.45mm and 9.48mm, with light drag between the vernier calliper jaws. The brown RH case seal measured @ 8.56mm So, all looked to be okay, with sufficient thickness to squash when the pump is installed. Next job was to install just the intermediate shaft and oil pump to make sure it all rotated smoothly on it's own. Worked first time, no probs at all. Fitted the distributor bung into the LH case - blimey, with Loctite Retainer, that took a fair wallop (plus heat on the case and a frozen bung) to get into place. Not a problem with with the dimensions, purely the "grab" factor of the retaining compound, which I hadn't appreciated would be so immense. Anyway, it's in now, never to come back out. Time to seal the crankcase halves up! |
And just when I thought I had all the sealants I cold possibly want for this engine project, I stumble upon this thread!!!
A few cups of tea later, plus an unhealthy amount of paranoia for my first 911 build, I then decided to order some Three Bond for the #8 and outer case flanges....just hit the "complete order" button when some advice came through. Doh! Having spent another £50 on these two products, I confess to wanting to bloody well use it and get my moneys worth! Now, the sealant used for the outer flange is 1194 (now called 1184, if anyone's about to buy some - I managed to get one of the last tubes of the 1194), and it has a set time of 1 minute!!! :eek: Time to try some out on a scrap piece of aluminium. With the temp/humidity that day, I timed it that the compound was still very much workable at 5mins, but had skinned at 8mins. Did the same for the 1211 (which I used for the #8), but this was fine for at least 30mins working time (as it describes in the instructions) Loctite 574 (case through bolt webs) as we know is anaerobic, so not too much to worry about there. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/84f13d9d.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/b1710b9f.jpg New fasteners all lined up, crank then installed, inter shaft installed, chains on, home-made tools used to support rods and chain...another final clean on the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and then IPA.....time to get it built. Now, I decided to bolt this little lot together with the case bolts but not their seals. I wanted to really take my time on making sure the o-ring seals were fitted properly, not rush them as I would need to, in order to seal the case in the curing time I had. Leave it for 24hrs, then remove each bolt one-by-one and re-install with the o-rings and silicon grease. After a frantic hour of prep and spannering, ended up with ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/158812ab.jpg And I have to say, shaking but buzzing! A healthy but not excessive amount of liquid squirt-out of the 1194 from the flanges confirmed to me that I'd beaten the clock with that. Same for the #8, and I could see small but consistent signs of the 574 also being displaced. Big. Sigh. Of. Relief. Beer was consumed. |
Time to start emptying the storage bags and re-fit clean stuff! Yipee!
Crankcase breather and thermostat housing were first. Stupidly I then fitted the intermediate shaft cover, then realised it needed to come back off for the parallelism checks...newb mistake! ARP head studs fitted, all to the same height ;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/8c2ab6de.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/6c131646.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/9db6bf5b.jpg Time for a big ticket item to get bolted on...the new flywheel, courtesy of TK Chris. 964 RS single mass unit, and it's SO much lighter...couldn't resist a quick weigh-in.... The old DM flywheel (perfectly good by the way...coming to an eBay near you soon) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/9b563a2d.jpg And the new one---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/e9e63631.jpg Height difference --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/46a1d8c6.jpg 7.2kgs lighter!!!! Less than half the weight, that's going to pick up so nicely, but more importantly, it's got the 60-2 tooth timing marks I need for mapping. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/13e142a2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/816df827.jpg Can't get the starter ring on yet, the nut stack on the engine mount is ever-so-slightly stopping it from going on. The clutch plate, coming later on in the build, is a Sachs 997 GT2 item, iirc >850Nm capability. Perlenty. :p |
Pistons & Cylinders
Next up was to install the pistons into the cylinders, then fit them onto the rods - all in preparation for a dummy build to check valve clearances.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/5cc59a88.jpg Used my new ring insertion tool; mixed success....some pistons it went in first time beautifully (cue smugness) but other times it was a right pain - probably a knack that I haven't quite got. Yet. And then a clock check to mark TDC.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/ca19ff08.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/1cd71eb4.jpg I got the following dwell period ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/8e084346.jpg Ignore the "+" looking biro mark, that was an error. Which I then repeated onto some black marker pen marks on the teeth of the flywheel (great idea Matt!), which gives a larger resolution to be able to get it spot-on in the middle --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/84457893.jpg That's just a buildup of marker pen ink, not a damaged tooth...the scribe mark is right on the RH edge, then one in the following "gap" |
Next was to drop the heads on, torquing them up to the specified 38lb/ft that ARP specify.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/c881d343.jpg Have to confess to having a mild heart attack late one evening, where I hastily put a straight edge across all three heads to check levels (I have no idea why I did this...put it down to excitement), and found a 0.12mm gap under #1 and #3!! Clearly the copper cylinder gasket wasn't squashed sufficiently. Once torqued they are now perfectly flat. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/6adfd4c2.jpg Cam carriers next---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/1108fa2c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/4c395718.jpg (sprockets just placed onto camshafts to save them banging about) |
Looks like I am just behind you. Did you install the ARP studs with "Loctite" or dry? Also, what are you going to do about final torque of the head nuts as ARP recommends 38 ft-lbs?
edit: looks like you went with 38 lbs, LOL. PS: like the wall art. |
Next job, to check parallelism of the sprockets, plus the axial runout.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/9e0aa37e.jpg I made a very quick and simple mount to clamp the straight edge to, against the front of the crankcase. Bolts into one of the intermediate shaft cover bolt holes, and just means I have two hands free to use the vernier against the sprocket faces. With a little fiddling, I've now got the dimensions within spec. Of course, I'm now using new cams, so this definitely does need to be done. I noticed when re-assembling that the shims had slight burs, so took the opportunity to flatten them a little against some wet-and-dry stuck to a machined flat surface --> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/0a8cb40d.jpg Next up is the axial runout of the cams. All within spec @ 0.15 (LH) and 0.14 (RH) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/b8f8cbd9.jpg Then a clean-up and installation of the chain tensioner wheels ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/825d00b1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/3ae82ea5.jpg And finally this evening, installed #1 inlet and exhaust rockers back into the cam carrier (without the RSR seals for the time being, don't want to risk tearing them) ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/56ed2bc9.jpg Probably a few things I've forgotten this evening, but you get the idea of where things are up to...finally looking like an engine again!!! |
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I used Loctite 242 to fix them, as they're not bottomed out on the crankcase. Left it overnight to do it's thing, then put the heads on....then iirc, left another night before torquing them up, giving the 242 plenty of time to lock the studs. You do actually feel an amount of what feels like slip when doing the nuts up....in fact, I thought the studs had rotated, but upon checking my tell-tale paint pen marks (glad I did them!) they were all absolutely in place, it was purely the stiction of the washer/head and thread interfaces. ETA: yeah, it's a "blokes" garage...gotta have some totty to look at whilst spannering ;) |
A point of clarity....
It's just occurred to me that I perhaps had inadvertently implied something that isn't correct!
Back in post #82, I said --> Quote:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...h_5cc59a88.jpg Which has "TurboKraft" written on the tops of the cylinders. I just want to point out that although purchased through Chris @ TK (hence the marker pen), I did ask for them to be sent directly to me from LN, so the "snag" has absolutely nothing to do with TurboKraft, these were shipped directly to save time. Just wanted to be clear ;) |
Trial cam timing
Okay, so a few hours in the garage this evening to try my hand at cam timing. This isn't the final time-up, just a few dummy runs so that I can then check valve clearances.
One thing I hadn't done up to this point, was simply to rotate the crank a few times. Pins not inserted into the vernier pulleys just yet, so no valve actuation.....it all felt very smooth. Strangely satisfying. Followed the documented procedure for the milder cams, outlined in Waynes book. Cam dots rotated to vertical (checked with a plumb line no less!), crank positioned smack bang in-between the two TDC dwell markings, etc, etc. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/759f6147.jpg Placing the DTI was a little bit of a sod. I'm using a rather large 0-50mm dial, so it has not only long travel, but a very big gauge. For this reason, I'm mounting onto a steel plate using a mag base. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/7a279814.jpg The VERY narrow flat platform on top of the Schrick retainers also meant it was a fiddle to get the DTI aligned perpendicular in both planes, and sitting on this face. Timed it up to 1.36mm @ 0.1mm lash, i.e. full advance. The bit that messed up the first attempt was when I then removed the vernier pin (in order to rotate crank back to Z1)....the cam jumped around significantly, which I wasn't expecting, so missed how much it rotated. Attempt #2. It did do the same, but I was expecting it this time; rotation equated to about 0.3mm of lift, so I manually rotated the cam back again using the oil pump drive bolts at the back of the cam. Moved the crank back to absolute TDC, re-inserted pin, tightened the crank bolt and rotated everything 720 for a check. I'm sure there are people squirming at this method (!)...anyone know a way of preventing the cam springing around when removing the pin? Not bad for the first complete attempt, 0.03mm "out", giving me a lift of 1.33mm. Tomorrow night I'll have a go at the RHS, and see if I can get the two banks in sync. Then time to check valve clearances. |
Was chatting with Chris Carroll earlier this evening, and realised that I completely forgot to post any details about compression ratios in last nights mass-update.
A few weeks ago I went down to SBD with the car crammed with new parts, so that I could do a dummy build on #1 to check CR's. All very straightforward, apart from when we came to cc the heads. The plexiglass lid we were using was a lot bigger than the recess in the heads on a 911, and we didn't have time to machine a nice circular disc, so a bit of guerrilla engineering, where we used 2 of the fire-rings I'm fitting, stacked onto each other and lightly sealed with some grease, onto which we then placed the lid ready for filling from the burette. Thank you Craig for the second pair of hands to hold it all nice and flat! The displacement of the piston dome was calculated by getting it to TDC, then dropping it by 5mm down the bore, then filling. The volume of a shim is only basic trig, so after all that we plugged the numbers into the spreadsheet, as shown here ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...screenshot.jpg So, using some copper base shims @ 0.3mm thickness, we get to a compression ratio of 7.93:1 That'll do nicely. :cool: |
At last, a few updates.....
Long time since the last update, so about time I downed-tools to scrawl some words on the progress. I'm now having to look back at the photo’s to remind myself of what happened next.
So, dummy build went fine, lots of practise with timing the cams. Had to pull a “through-the-night” stint to get it all broken down again, so that I could keep an appointment I had with my welder mate on the Saturday morning (his “project” day). I wanted to get the chamfered edge on the heads (near the injector reliefs, inlet side) built-up with weld so that there was more landing area for the gasket/inlet manifold. This meant that the valvetrain needed to be broken back down again, but this really was a job I wanted to do and not leave to chance. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/8bdeb17c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/2c515712.jpg Once all back and hand-finished to pretty it up, I confess to still not being happy with the valve spring install heights. Luckily, I was at a work conference with a bunch of German colleagues, so after commandeering one of them then drawing what I was trying to enquire about, we put a joint call into Schrick in Germany, with Marcus doing the translation. As it happens, the engineer who we got through to spoke very good English! We got the specs from him, with the all-important tolerances (bizarrely missing from the tech data for the valve gear I’ve got), then speaking with Chris at TK, we came up with a loading target for the valves. Then, by using the valve spring compression gauge at SBD, I was able to work backwards to calculate the shim heights http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/00a5da6c.jpg Rather than build up using a stack of stock sized shims, and only getting to within the tolerance, I decided to machine some solid shims and surface grind each one to the exact dimension, valve-by-valve. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/22b87289.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/26e3435c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/9e87dd8d.jpg Not the job of 5 minutes, and as my mate Matt and the guys at SBD will attest, I went around the loop a number of times (no OCD here, honest). This was mainly due to me not being comfortable with the repeatability of the measurements I was taking; being as accurate as I could, with a steady hand and the digital vernier, I was seeing far too much variation in the install heights during the rebuild. So, next job, make one of these: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/4838840c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/533bf754.jpg This was far better, with entirely consistent and repeatable measurements. Very glad I spent the time re-doing what I’d already entrusted CTR Developments to do. Everything would’ve been far too soft had I left as-is, valves would’ve been opening under boost, etc. The Schrick/TK spring loadings were far higher than CTR had set-up to. For the love of God and all that’s Holy….. |
Right, heads rebuilt – finally – and ready for the next step. Time to reassemble the bottom end with both gudgeon pin retaining clips (very glad I made that insertion tool), reinstall the heads and then perform a leakdown test of each cylinder before assembling the cam carrier assy.
Ha-ha. More fun and games, as Chris @ TK will be chuckling about (laugh or cry, Chris, laugh or cry!). I knew the leakdown tester I bought last year was broken – see one of my first threads – but decided not to throw it in the bin, and to try and repair. It was only the gauges themselves that were faulty, the rest of the assembly is very straightforward, nothing to go wrong per-se, so long as the design was correct (this is the same generic unit as I think you guys can get from Harbor Freight, etc…mine was eBay, branded as a “Bergen” unit) Ordered some new, decent quality gauges, 2 x identical ones, then calibrated one to the other @ 100psi line pressure. (pic below wasn't using the 100psi, obviously) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/0a4ee001.jpg Once assembled onto the tester manifold, I used it to test each cylinder. Frankly, the results I got were suspiciously out. The leakdown percentages were far too high (ie, far too good). Much as I’d like to think I built an engine with that good a leakdown, I really doubt it! I then borrowed a mates Snap-On tester…but….was also a little concerned that the needle on this gauge wasn’t zero’ing; it was only sitting back to 95% without any load. Looking at pictures of the same model on eBay, other units seem to have the same “problem”, others seemed to reset back to 100% as you’d expect. So, another set of reading that bore *some* correlation to the first set, albeit by 5% difference. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/3ab52f74.jpg I admit to being a little spooked by these high readings; I did the usual light tapping of the valve with moderate pressure, to perhaps reseat the valves (and dispel any foreign bodies, should there be any). My gut reaction was that the majority of the air was leaking into the crankcase, but I was also seeing light inflation of the gaffer (duct) tape I sealed the inlet and exhaust ports with. I should say, that the audible volume of the leaking air was NOT loud, more a gentle whistling rather than air rushing out. Anyway, I decided to pull the heads….again….and strip them to check for adequate lapping in of the valve seats. Surprise surprise, not a great job was done by the outfit who built the heads. They were lapped, but the grey band was feint in places, varied in thickness on the seat and showed score lines, as-if there was crud in the lapping paste that was used. Either way, it looked a rush job and after re-doing one valve myself, and seeing the difference, I decided to strip the heads down – again – and lap everything in myself. One of the valve seats before: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/20b5cae6.jpg ...and after re-lapping: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/dc12463b.jpg Far happier with the consistency of the lapping, everything was cleaned, re-assembled and built back onto the short-block. In fairness, using the Snap-On tester again, I saw small differences, but not really anything that was making the difference I hoped for. Hmmm. Leakdown attempt #3…..thinking laterally one evening, it dawned on me that the generic leakdown tester catered for 99.9% of cars that only run one spark plug. Being blessed with twin-plugged heads, I wasn’t limited to just trying to feed pressure into one plug hole and reading the leakage from the same port. So, assembling together a load of hoses and fittings that I'd accumulated, I double checked that both gauges read the same at 100psi “baseline” pressure off the airline. I then used the one of the 100psi gauges to monitor input air feed via a local regulator from the main air feed (into the inlet side spark plug). A Gunsons compression tester was then modified (removed the Schrader valve and the compression gauge, re-fitted the second new 100psi gauges). This was used in the exhaust side plug hole. Very simply, air was applied @ 100psi to one plug hole, then read off from the second plug hole using the second gauge. The difference between them is the % leakage. Four cylinders read 2%, with two of them reading fractionally less than 2% (if I were to estimate, then probably about 1.75%-1.8%) Far happier with these readings, not as optimistic as method #1, but more realistic than method #2 with the Snap-on. Time to get on and re-built the top end. |
No dramas with the rebuild, not a lot to report that everyone in this forum hasn’t seen dozens of times. Very satisfying knowing that each nut being torqued is being done for the final time. ThreeBond 1194 was used to seal the cam carrier to the heads.
RSR oil seals on the rocker shafts were fitted – no problems installing them, just a lot of care to avoid over stretching and tearing. Rockers for #1 and #4 inlets were installed, ready for cam timing. DTI setup again, timing wheels bolted on, chain tensioners fitted and clamped into place. After spending a few hours timing up the LH bank, 1-3, including re-indexing the verniers to get it precisely at full advance (1.36mm), the RH bank went surprisingly easily. Great, time to put in all of the other rockers and set the gaps. Or maybe not. I’ve no idea how it happened, but I’m glad I checked #1 valve gap a second time. To my annoyance, somehow, the gap was nowhere near the 0.1mm setting that I’d set it to the previous evening. Argghhh!!! Time to start all over again; remove the rockers and re-time everything. What an absolute pig – some cracking Anglo Saxon was spoken. Anyway, all done (re-done) the next evening, all gaps set, checked and rechecked (!!). Thankfully, I managed to carefully install all the rocker shafts and RSR seals dry, hopefully mitigating any chance of oil weeping. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/5359e6fe.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/a2e6addc.jpg Timing, after a lot of setting, checking, resetting, re-indexing, etc....1.35mm on 1-3 and 1.37mm on 4-6. Not convinced the stock vernier pulleys are the best design, too coarse an adjustment on the pins IMHO....nowhere near as good as the ones I'm using on my Vauxhall engine in the Westfield (which in fairness have the pins/holes set in a larger diameter than the Porsche ones, so has a finer range of adjustments) |
Now for the fun part – bolting everything on.
I’d been thinking about how best to mount the cam position sensor, and opted to site it in the “usual” place in about the 5 o’clock position on what was the air pump pulley housing. The sensor and mounting was supplied by TurboKraft, so it came with a very nice pair of CNC machined mounting plates. The intention was to lighten the toothed belt pulley as much as possible and mount a steel hex head bolt in there to trigger the hall effect sensor. First job, back to my welding man to attach one of the CNC’d plates to the housing. At the same time, I fabricated a couple of covers to enclose the openings where the air pump belt used to enter/exit the housing. After a fair amount of sanding and grinding, then vapour blasting, the end result looks pretty good I reckon: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/1d9af041.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/55da5a0c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/5f2f5b5d.jpg Another visit to SBD saw the pulley get even lighter! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/391c7a35.jpg …into which I’ll drill and tap for a mild steel pick-up…. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/3e99de2d.jpg Meaning I now no longer need the second CNC'd plate to space out the hall-effect sensor. This can now go directly into the housing, and I can set the 1mm gap with the length of the mild steel sender. As a result of the lightening mission, I now have an unusual coaster for the coffee table. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/6f166201.jpg Because I'm running twin plugs on the heads, I needed to fettle the cylinder head temperature bracket so that it clears the new access holes. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/786d511d.jpg Unfortunately, after everything has been powder coated, I’ve needed to modify the tinware that sits at the back of #3 to accommodate the head temp sensor (my fault, poor planning), but also to allow access to the lower spark plug on #3. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/f0631337.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/eb46ca21.jpg In addition, the hole cut in the exhaust valve cover also needed modification to elongate and allow a 14mm plug to be installed!....Another *fantastic* piece of work by CTR; can’t even get a bloody hole right. (…and yes, I do want to fit the same size plugs to the top and bottom of each head) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/060805e2.jpg These items are still back over with the powder coating company, but there are other jobs to be getting on with. |
Anyway, less of the negative stuff….overall, I’m really pleased with how it’s coming along:
• Cooling fan strap was carefully fitted • Engine shroud modified to accommodate the Carrera intake manifold phenolic blocks • Power steering drive pulley refurbished • PS pump brackets replaced • PS housing fitted • PS pump now re-installed • A/C bracket in place with the newly plated exhaust silencer bracket fitted http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/82d122fb.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/0abe1f3a.jpg Then onto the engine wiring loom. My dilemma was whether to modify the existing loom, removing the whole of the T31 connector and its associated wiring, then re-covering with heatshrink, or whether to try and source all the connectors and fittings, then make a new loom. After looking up the price of a new loom, and considering mine (once cleaned) was in immaculate condition and hasn't gone hard and cracked with heat, I decided to not hack this about and save for a rainy day. A few PowerPoint diagrams later and I had a plan of what I needed to make. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ngineLoom1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ngineloom2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ngineloom3.jpg I sourced all the parts I needed, ordered all the thin-wall wiring and decided to uprate the cable between the starter motor and alternator, as well as from the alternator to the suppressor. A day sat quietly making it (not my first loom, have designed and made the complete loom for my Westfield, plus many alterations to looms on other cars), and voila, quite a smart looking bit of wiring…and a lot lighter and less complex. Original loom: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/24a796bd.jpg New loom (unterminated): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/0660b9c8.jpg |
A trial fit of the loom, then some careful finalising of cable lengths (especially items like the alternator and starter motor), a little more heatshrink then time to hook it up to the alternator.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/d690ba63.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/fbd0b1fa.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/1856aa2c.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/c9555d33.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/fd84b15f.jpg A little bit of patience needed to route the loom and replace the nose cover of the alternator, bolt down the ground connection to the crankcase and re-fit the alternator/fan assy into its strap. A new cooling fan belt now shimmed and fitted: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/b6312851.jpg ...as is the crank position sensor (fitted into a new bracket, the old one broke): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/0cce1fbc.jpg Next job, bolt on the intake manifold! Woo-hoo!! |
Despite me assembling it a few months ago (see previous post), I’d spotted some of the vapour blasting residue (like very fine castor sugar) that had dried and collected under where the manifold was sitting in my office. Time to strip it down, and scrub with hot soapy water. A quick re-assemble after drying thoroughly, and it’s ready to go onto the engine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/995a50d0.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/4de1921d.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/16be41d6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/ace303a9.jpg Another order into my OPC for some bolts and other sundries that were just way beyond being salvaged with re-plating, and I was able to then bolt on the engine mounting hardware: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/370db916.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/3a43b305.jpg Here you can see the extra strengthening I've fabricated and welded in. …and that’s pretty much where I’m now up to. Tonights job is to solder on the T30 connector, now I have a new set of sockets for the connector. Just waiting for some tinware and the 1-3 exhaust valve cover to be powder coated, then I can start looking at fitting headers and the new Garrett turbo. Once I can get that far, then it’s time to start fabricating to install the new twin scroll flange (T3) and twin wastegates. My new intercooler is being built over at TurboKraft – in fact it’s probably welded up right now, and possibly with the plating company for it’s anodised coating. Once I have this, I can fab the IC outlet pipe > intake butterfly, fitting the various bosses I need for dump valves, sensors, etc. |
That T30 connector turned out to be quite fiddly; lot of heat needed to get clean solders, and care needed to get the cable lengths absolutely spot-on. Too short and it's time to re-do the whole loom, too long and there's insufficient space to accommodate all 14 wires and close the lid.
Anyway, engine wiring loom is now finished apart from the boost pressure sensor (for the cockpit gauge), which I'm leaving until I receive the intercooler, then decide where to mount the sender. Next job was to clean the exhaust headers ready to dummy fit the new turbo. Jesus, this new unit is a big beast!....compare/contrast---> Old one, temporarily bolted on for positioning: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/173ebcd5.jpg New one, albeit on the unmodified headers. The flange needs changing for the new twin-scroll divided input flange from TurboKraft, as do the secondaries that will feed it: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/afd2c1df.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/4851c052.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/003c3d42.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/95b11557.jpg Fortunately, I managed to retrieve the rear engine tinware before the powder coating company re-coated it. This is a new item but was only painted in the same black "primer" that new bodywork panels come with; not up to the task of protecting the tin long-term. The piece had been incinerated it to remove the base paint but it was left outside until ready for grit blasting/coating (hence it looks knackered). I'm sure it'll come good once blasted and coated. Some fettling's needed to accommodate the boost outlet up to the I/C, in addition to the silicon 90deg hose from the intake to the compressor inlet. Was messing about this evening whilst having half an eye on the Olympics (Team GB's womens volleyballers doing very well, I might add ;):D ). To begin with I trimmed the old rotted tinware that thankfully I kept. Chopped it enough to be able to bolt it in place and clear the compressor outlet, then made up a cardboard template. Once welded in place, this will then tighten up the gap around the turbo>I/C outlet, which is about 30mm over to the right versus the old K27. I need to also think about fabricating a mount for the turbo to support it from the engine. |
A few pics of last nights tinkering. Using the very old piece of rotted tinware I'd kept for a rainy day, I chopped out a small section that interfered with the compressor outlet.
Here, you can see where the GT35's outlet sits relative to where the old K27 came up through the metal: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/05a0dcbf.jpg Then a cardboard template which I'll make in some 20SWG steel, and weld in place. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/db4d3162.jpg Will also make a rear section to help enclose the gap to the chain cover. Just in the process of checking with Chris @ TK to make sure that the "stock" location of the T3 flange, and thus the turbo position, is correct for the imminent TurboKraft intercooler. I'll then start modifying the new tinware and make that fillet. |
Got the tinware back from the powder coating shop the other day, another couple of jobs have now been completed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74B7B5FDA2.jpg Fit tinware to the back of #3 cylinder, behind the auxiliary oil pump /air pump housing. This needed to be modified quite a bit to allow access to the second #3 spark plug in the lower valve cover. Also needed a slot cutting to allow the cylinder head temp sender assy to protrude: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74D379723A.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70E1622D98.jpg The crank position sender is also now in place, picking up off the new 60-2 tooth 964RS flywheel: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70DBEC9BF0.jpg |
Aux oil pump drive - heavily modified - is also now back in place. As you can see, have fabricated some closing holes to block off where the air pump drive belt used to run through:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7550B98EF1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...751C98B8F4.jpg The pulley isn't driving anything, so spun it up in the lathe to just retain the centre.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74FC5F2494.jpg ...into which I'm made a cam position pick-up for the hall effect sensor (the mounting boss for which is also now welded onto the pump housing): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2A1C106E-1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70C31B7110.jpg Edges of the "bolt" radiused to allow a 1mm clearance to the hall effect, without it fouling when rotating: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70AA20EBCA.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70CF7F3896.jpg And then the oil pump unit itself refitted. Rigid line in place simply because I haven't got around to removing it yet; will probably run a single PTFE/banjo line to the turbo drip tank: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70EB798534.jpg |
Friday evening was spent mocking-up the exhaust system, a Hayward & Scott system, in readiness for a trip up to H&S to deliver the system for modification.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7A1FCA1C87.jpg The silencer needs to retain a cat converter (I have to retain one under UK law, for a 1993 registered car). Thankfully I established from H&S yesterday that it's a pukka 100 cell unit, so pretty unrestrictive. The finalised shopping list of modifications that H&S are going to be doing for me: 1) Remove old T3 flange, replacing with the new item from TurboKraft with a stronger centre wall for the twin-scroll feed. 2) Remove the siamesed secondary feeds into the old T3 flange. These had the wastegate swan-neck feed also siamesed (see previous pics in above post) 3) Replace above with completely isolated secondaries, again, for twin-scroll feeds into the GT35R. 4) Weld in 2 x bosses for the new Lambda sensors 5) Weld the turbine outlet quick release coupling flange onto the silencer inlet - this will arrive from TK shortly. 6) Polish the silencer and tailpipes :lol: In addition, supply 2 x 90deg 1.5" bends that will install into each Tial wastegate; I can then take modified system back home and do another mock-up, to position each w/g somewhere where it won't foul anything....it's very tight around this area, so do not want to guess this position for the sake of saving one return trip up to Essex. (I'm retaining heat exchangers, plus the silencer is about 2x the depth of a non-cat unit). I also need to accommodate another 2 x EGT sensors for the MBE management, one per secondary. When removing the system from the car, I hadn't noticed (or had forgotten) that the joint between the two halves of the system are already double slip jointed - good news, no need for this to be modified. The lads up at Hayward & Scott seem to be very helpful and "can-do"; hopefully only a week or so until this is back with me for another mock-up ...they had a lovely couple of cars up there, a Cobra and a genuine continuation model Superformance Shelby Cobra Coupe.....VERY nice. |
Yesterday's job - whilst we've got some cracking summer weather - was to get onto the car and remove the oil system for cleaning.
First job was removal of the sill covers (rocker panels?) and the shark-fin. Easy enough, they were off last year for tidying up and fitting of new clear vinyl. Onto the connections for the thermostat. What an utter b***h of a job. Two of the threaded fittings came off ok, but sods law, the back fitting for the oil line> cooling rad is proving very stubborn. It's all cleaned up but still no joy; left it to soak with penetrating fluid while I got on with disconnecting the oil tank. No problems here so far, just need to work out a way to gently prise out the oil level sender wire from the retaining channel....I think I may end up removing the thermo with the oil line, once disconnected from the cooler, then sling it in a vice to undo that line. Am seriously debating - whilst the oil system is empty - whether to install a second oil cooler into the LHS of the car. I have A/C fitted (and it's staying) so need to take the bumper off and see what room I have to accommodate one.....a few good threads here on Pelican to use for planning. If I do, then am also debating whether to run completely new Aeroquip lines to the back of the car, in which case I'll make them long enough to go the second cooler. If not (and it seems a shame not to retain the original metal lines, they're immaculate, no corrosion or crushing), then I'll just get new hoses crimped onto the ends. Thats tomorrows job, more updates when I know more. |
Quite a productive Bank Holiday weekend....finally got good weather coinciding with a spare weekend, where I could get the chassis up on axle stands and start prepping it ready for engine re-installation.
Eventually managed to get that (almost) welded on oil coupling undone, but only by first removing the front bumper, RHS wheel arch liners, etc, and then removing the oil cooler rad + oil lines, as one assembly. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...179685ED85.jpg Empty void once removed...looking forward to a full clean-up of the suspension (and replacement of the dampers) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...17A1CDF2F6.jpg Not too much detritus had found it's way in, thankfully.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...17CF41487F.jpg Still managed to replicate the Amoco Cadiz on my driveway despite trying to be careful not to spew oil everywhere. Anyway, rad disconnected, and with my Dad's perfectly timed arrival, we got the thermostat into a bench vice while he held onto the long line, and we cracked it undone. Thanks Dad! Oil cooler rad assembly is now broken down into all it's parts and cleaned. The cooler itself has been cleaned externally, now ready for either ultrasonic cleaning (if I can find somebody who does this) or thorough cleaning in a tank. The fan looks like new again. The metal blocking plate I may get powder coated with yet another batch of items that need doing. Both oil feed lines are dangling from my garage ceiling over a drain tank. I'll get new flexi lines swaged onto the rigid parts in due course. Thermostat about to be opened up and cleaned/tested...if anyone knows off the top of their heads the opening temp for a 1992 spec thermostat unit, please post so I can check it in a pan of heated water....IIRC the opening temp did change with later units? Have been debating whether or not to install a secondary cooler, but feedback so far would indicate that for a road car, no track work, and in the milder climes of the UK, shouldn't require it. Fine, I'm all for a simple and cheaper life. |
eThrottle Body....
Another job that I thought was going to be a simple bolt-on procedure, was fitting the new eThrottle body onto the Carrera intake.
This unit is off a 997 C2, where a recessed groove in the intake system houses an O-ring, which then seals to the eThrottle body. Of course the Carrera intake I'm using doesn't have this, so time to eBay for a vendor of gasket material. Two days later, I had a set of leather hole punches and sheet of A4 0.8mm non-asbestos fibrous material, another sheet of 1mm and an A4 sheet of 1.5mm silicon, like the re-usable valve cover gaskets available from our Host (which I'm also using)...even the colour matches. Some careful transposing of the body outline onto paper served as my template for the silicon (decided to go with this so I can remove/refit the intake assy, without fear of future air leaks): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1822CEA43B.jpg ...however, something I hadn't got around to checking was the ID of the eThrottle versus the ID of the intake: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...18194610E7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...182B79B234.jpg Okay, so time to remove the intake....again (!!), buy some die grinder rasps and get grinding. Anyway, this is what it'll look like when mounted: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...180F0FAEDD.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...18019DD884.jpg |
Cleaning of the oil system
Tonights job, after contacting a fairly local company that reconditions radiators, is to strip down the cooler in readiness to take it up there for a thorough clean, pressure test and paint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...568F122F84.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...569513BC63.jpg I spent some time removing the hardware; those spire clips with a stud attached, the temp sensor, the original threaded fittings, mounting rubbers. All ready to go. Next job was to strip down the oil thermostat. I did need to drill and tap a hole in the front plate and use a slide hammer to remove it. No big deal, will turn up a new one next time I'm at a lathe. All the component parts: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...567B99B8F0.jpg ...and the empty thermostat housing: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...568978D90A.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5684607301.jpg Have also spoken to Think Automotive, my hosing/fitting supplier in London. Very helpful bunch. I think the way forward will be to cut off the swaged flexi hoses & metric fittings from the rigid oil lines, and braze on some AN fittings, then use regular -AN fittings on the hoses and onto the oil cooler. I'll probably do the same at the other end, to couple it to the thermostat. The alternative is to not touch the original rigid lines with flexi hoses, and replace the whole lot with single lengths of Aeroquip hosing, but this'll probably be extremely expensive, and may even present a problem with getting the radius tight enough where they exit the sill covers...sorry, rocker panels ;):p ....and go up and over the wheel liner. They may even be too fat to go behind the rocker panel...hmm. Anyway, off to borrow a cooking thermostat (probably from Mum) and boil some water and test the thermostat insert. |
Just round the corner from think/mocal is a branch of Pirtek with a trade counter, I found they often had fittings that think didn't, you could imagine that some of that heavy hydraulic gear must be german and therefore metric fittings (assuming that's the sticking point). They've also swaged lines for me in the past cheaper than think. Was a few years back I last used them but still worth a try?
|
Hi Alex, ah, I never knew that, thanks!
I was drawing out a diagram with the plumbing I need to get. It's not cheap, especially when looking at -16 fittings. Maybe I'm over thinking this, and just keeping it simple is the best way forward. |
What is the butterfly diameter of the 997 throttle body?
Thanks for sharing. |
Quote:
Ta S |
Porting of the intake manifold plenum...
Have been doing this on-and-off over the weekend, finishing it this evening. Chuffed with how my first porting job has come out!
I borrowed a brand new set of Blue Point die grinder burrs from my mate next door....tip to those who haven't done this before (like me), the generic carbide burrs are great...but...not ideal for aluminium; there are dedicated burrs you can apparently get, with far fewer teeth. I have to say, I reckon these would be extremely aggressive for the first time user, spinning at about 20k rpm. To prevent the "standard" burrs from clogging, I found a great tip. Coat the clean burr with Nickel NeverSeez paste, the stuff that Porsche likes to use, a bit like Copperslip but about 10x the price. Thankfully I had some, and it works beautifully. Very little clogging, and even when it did need cleaning, the ally just came off with a wire brush. Previously, the burrs were clogging in seconds, and taking 5-10 minutes to pick off the welded on swarf. Anyway, here's what I've managed to do: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C34B2F546D.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF304B3485.jpg Then, when the eThrottle body is fitted on top.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF484C74CE.jpg No steps in the airstream now! There's a little bit of wiggle-room afforded with the 4x M6 caphead bolts, allowing precise alignment. Because of the shape of this part of the intake system, you can't remove too much material from the top and the bottom sections, you'd simply break through the casting wall. It starts off at about 4.5mm thick, I'm down to about 2.5-3mm at the thinnest section, but more importantly, have removed any sharp steps in this area, it's all nicely blended, top, bottom and to each side as the air enters each half of the manifold. Once it's blown through and washed thoroughly, that'll be another job done. |
Intercooler update....
Chris very kindly sent me some pictures of my new intercooler, just before he packaged it up ready for shipping to Blighty.
I have to say, if it looks half as good as the pictures - and they're not rigged studio shots - then I'm going to be very pleased. This is one of TurboKrafts full bay intercoolers, with all the quick release couplings that were used on Toms "Odyssey" project, with some custom mounts that'll bolt directly onto my Carrera intake manifold ;) After a little contemplation, I decided to go for a black anodized finish....a bit of a "nod" to the stock I/C. GCSE physics says that when in a direct heat source, black will of course absorb that heat quicker than a reflective material....but when not exposed to a radiating heat source, then apparently (according to some of the salt flat racers) black actually dissipates heat better than a reflective material. I'm guessing this could well be the source of a holy-war, but more than anything else, I like black, and it's what Porsche used. Although the polished "au natural" unit looks great, it wouldn't be in-keeping with anything on my engine or in the 'bay. Unfinished aluminium would also start to corrode pretty quickly, especially in the damp winter UK climate. I did see some pics of a matt black anodized finish that one of Chris's clients specifically requested. Looks very urban/military, but not really what I was after. What I finally went for was a fairly gloss black....think of really nice cycling components (eg Thomson seat post/handlebar stem), or the sort of finish on the Tial wastegates. I believe Chris did a few test pieces of ally using differing levels of abrasion, and then working with his plating shop to get exactly the finish he thought I was after. It's taken a fair amount of time to get the I/C, but when you consider that these are made in batches, and are REALLY nice...CNC machined end tanks and necks, and then all welded up, plus the playing around getting the right surface finish, then getting it anodized, it's little wonder. .....and you're just gonna have to wait for the pics I'm afraid! :D (they're not my photos, and am just waiting for Chris to give me the nod ;) ) |
Intercooler Pics
Heard back from Chris the other day re the pics - unfortunately the PhotoBucket site has been having problems for 3-4days, so unable to upload or post anything.
Anyway, here it is ---> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7619.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7622.jpg Above you can see in the background the mounting brackets that will bolt directly onto the Carrera intake manifold that I'm running. The back of the I/C will then locate using lugs into those holes on the towers, then be held in place using a bolt at the front. Intake and outlets are both QR "Wiggins" style clamps....all to make this as serviceable as possible. Really nicely thought out by Chris and the TK team. And some close-ups of the end tank, showing the CNC machining detail: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7623.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7625.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7626.jpg Long story short, as co-incidence would have it, I'm going to be in NYC in a few weeks time....our natural mistrust of couriers, plus time kicking around UK Customs if they decide to hold it back, not to mention the massive shipping bill (which then attracts more import duty/VAT, as it gets added to the value of the I/C), means that Chris and I are formulating a plan to get it from AZ to NY and then for me to hand-carry it back to the UK as hand-luggage!!!....very "oh-Jesus-Hamilton's-just-stuffed-it-get-the-receptionist-on-a-flight-over-here-ASAP-with-new-parts" F1. |
Have now received the oil cooler radiator back from Regal Rads...a fine job cleaning it up, pressure testing it, cleaning it and another pressure check, then painting:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95186BCD33.jpg Just got to decide how I want to plumb it all back in again now. |
Another job sorted this evening, removal of the oil tank from the RHS rear wing. It put up a bit of a fight, and after removing the wing support strut, was more than a little wary how flexible the bodywork was!
Not managed to get the dipstick tube undone yet, but the tank can certainly do with a fresh powder coating: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...950D30FBE5.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...94F88F38B6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95044CFA26.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...94FEE2655A.jpg Will flush it out tomorrow...have the whole weekend to tinker ;) |
Strange occurrence today on the way home from work; popped into SBD and saw a water radiator from one of their single seater race-cars. A custom made unit with a divided top tank and as luck would have it, very similar size to the oil cooler and AC condensor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CD34FA23E0.jpg Plenty of spare low-side drives from the ECU, and Steve happened to have in stock a tiny Bosch water pump (shown next to a wheel nut to give an idea of scale): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CD3C25E41B.jpg These items together have proved very successful in keeping cool a 320hp supercharged Suzuki Hayabusa engine in their single seater, and the same pump is being used by other customers of Steves running very highly tuned N/A Duratec rally cars, so looks like a very nice pump. I believe VAG use them...in fact it's probably these pumps that I have two of, on my Mk6 Golf GTD. For the cost of buying this (not a lot, for once!), I'm up for playing around and using this to water cool the GT35R. I know that TK are running them without water cooling...and that oil cooling through the chamber is NOT the way to go...but also conscious that if it all goes wrong, Garretts first warranty question will be whether I've cooled the unit adequately ( see the other thread that's running along with Garretts response )....plus a cooler turbo must equal more hp, no? A bit like I decided to run the eThrottle fly-by-wire system, I quite fancy going for this...I'm certainly not the first person to run it, but it is less common on these sort of projects....it's all about the tinkering. ;) :D ....and if a 962 can run water for cooling on an aircooled motor, then so can I!! (yes, I know it's totally different, I'm being flippant) The plan, if it'll fit without too much fabrication, is to install it alongside either the oil cooler or AC condenser, then run some small diameter rigid lines next to either the AC or the oil lines behind the sill covers. The pump isn't fussy where it goes, so if there's room I'll probably spare it from the heat of the engine bay and mount up front. I'll probably also then plumb-in the wastegates, seeing as they're going to be wedged very close to the turbo and the exhaust primaries with no airflow over them; may as well, it's very easy to do at that point. All I then need to do is either make or source a header tank...perhaps mounted in the luggage trunk. I don't think I ever will get this project finished at this rate! |
Hmm, not a particularly productive weekend. Again.
Collected the headers from the first phase of modification; the aim here was to get the new divided T3 flange welded in, remove the siamesed secondaries, and also the elephant trunk WG feed. Also to fit the 2 x Lamda bosses, and supply me with some pipes to play with for locating the WG's. Once these were positioned, I'd run the system back up there for welding the WG feeds, as well as the WG outlet pipes to the quick release collars. Phase 3 will be to cut off the old 4 stud flange on the silencer input, once I'm back from the US. The guys have done a great job of polishing the silencer/tailpipes: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...83F61C0BD7.jpg Here's the headers quickly bolted back on the engine plus GT35R...they deliberately haven't cleaned them up just yet, but still, they look good with the individual feeds into the T3: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7FA2E49572.jpg And now the not so good news...the Lamda boss for 1-3 bank is in slightly the wrong place, indexed wrongly by about 30degs, meaning there's not enough clearance to get the probe in there without fouling the compressor housing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7FA7AF8200.jpg Arse. |
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