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Thank you both! Yep, it's always nice to get back onto the project after a period of inactivity. Sometimes you just need a break from it and to "do other stuff" to get the passion back again. @John - I've been missing your project updates, apologies - I assumed it was equally quiet but upon checking my subscription settings I found that I didn't have active notifications set....lots of catching up for me to do!!) Cheers S |
A quick couple of photos of the new H&R anti-rollbars in their resplendent mauve (?!?)....
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9180.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9181.jpg I heard form Chris last night, most of the parts are now on their way. Going with Tarett rear drop links for the ARB, the Elephant ones are out of stock, but actually I think the Tarett ones look more serviceable, with screws that hold the drop link into the mount, versus what look to be roll-pins on the ER items? Maybe an old photo of the ER ones on their website, but either way I think the Tarett ones are also highly regarded. The bump-steer corrective arms for the steering rack are still about 10 days away; once Chris has everything, they'll be winging their way over. Very exciting, I've been planning this and creating mental shopping lists for years! The chap who previously did all of my vapour blasting on the engine build (intake manifold, oil pump drive casings, etc) is still in business, and was great to reacquaint myself with him again yesterday, lovely guy. The suspension arms will all be going to him as soon as they're off and stripped. Still undecided on the home plating kit though....hmmmm.... |
Time for another update.....
My bar of Nylatron, 102mm diameter, arrived the other day which is what I needed to make the seating rings for the rear dampers. Quick recap - installing the dampers and springs onto the Elephant Racing monoball top mounts means that you don't use the purple ally perch, as supplied by KW... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...G_9204%202.jpg ...I guess these interface nicely into the stock top mounts. However, substituting the OE mounts for the ER ones, this is what you get... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9196.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9195.jpg As you can see, the studs which are installed are pressed in but sit proud of the mount body. I don't know why they don't counterbore them and install flush, but there you go. I was told that what you see in the above photo is how they're supposed to be, and that it would be fine. I wasn't happy with only 3 points of contact for the spring, and a loose fit of the spring over the bearing housing. Steel against aluminium also niggled me, the lovely anodised finish eventually being damaged. So, time to correct both of those annoyances and do a proper job. The Nylatron I ordered this time was some that had MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide) added to it which apparently makes it stiffer, harder and dimensionally more stable than standard Nylatron. As it happens, it was the only option available for that diameter, in the (short) length I needed, at a reasonable price and in a couple of days. But, it's nowhere near as nice to turn as the regular Nylatron. Regular material chips nicely and easily gives a lovely surface finish; this material doesn't chip, in some regards it's very plastic so it tangles around the tool and onto the work itself....but then (unlike normal nylon) it's very tough to get off and untangle. Once you get a feel for how to cut the material you can get a decent surface finish, but it's not as forgiving as regular Nylatron. Anyway, onto what I've now made..... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9198.jpg Today I also realised that I have a very limited selection of milling cutters - in fact, just one end mill and it's not the same, or larger, diameter that I needed to mill the escutcheons to clear the stud bases. So, I had to instead machine a square-ish section from each location. Nothing critical dimensionally, so long as the recesses are deep enough... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9194.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9197.jpg Each one of these sleeves is a spot-on fit onto the top mounts... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9205.jpg ...the spring is now sitting on a full 360º surface contact base, and is held concentrically a lot tighter to the mount.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9201.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9202.jpg And that sums up this evenings work. In other news, I received one of the bearing/seal installation kits. I should be receiving the bush removal kit tomorrow. Between them I'm hoping I've got all situations covered for this project and other work, like the Lotus suspension, which will be overhauled next winter after the house project is done. |
Not too much to report from the last week or so, other than to we're now underway with the teardown....ripped the plaster, committed to doing it, no going back now.
Starting with the right-rear corner, fairly straightforward although when you do the first attempt at anything, it does take a lot longer than the next corner....finding the "knack", assembling the right combination of tools, etc. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...B58A08D562.jpg Best tool in the garage? The flipping long 3/4" drive breaker bar! That's been invaluable, along with the Snap On torque multiplier I bought a few years ago. The rear arm is almost ready to come off; the driveshaft is now out, the brakes came off the other evening along with the hub. The outboard chassis fixing of the rear arm was exceptionally tight and definitely a single-hex 18mm socket only. The inboard spring plate pivot bolt was also a challenge, not really because of how tight it was, just the sheer lack of space between it and the transmission casing. The left hand side looks a lot easier, far more space. I bought a shallow set of hex keys to do this, and although the size I needed had only a 3/8" sq drive, with the breaker bar and a trolley jack handle on it, it did come undone. How I torque it back up, I don't yet know. When removing the hub, the wheel bearing came apart, leaving the outer race on the shaft of the hub. From what I've read, it seems it does in most cases. It confirmed my decision to replace all the wheel bearings regardless (although I think they may have been done by a PO, evidence of copper slip rather than Alu Slip, not factory). The grease inside the bearing is very hard and wax-like, although there were no signs of imminent failure. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9256.jpg My policy of buying lots of tools (mostly because I love buying tools...) has paid off, with a bearing removal tool that I must've bought a long time ago and never used, coming into play to remove the outer case of the bearing from the hub. The biggest headache at the moment is trying to remove the handbrake cable. It's disassembled from the brake shoes, the plates removed leaving just the cable and attachment eyes...but the ferrule that inserts into the back of the suspension arm just will not budge. I've sprayed penetrating fluid on it for the last few evenings, and then removed the driveshaft late last night - that will allow greater access to maybe get some molegrips onto the ferrule (the cable is recessed into the Turbo arms, whereas it isn't on the Carrera arms) Before I remove the arm from the chassis, I'll loosen the spring plate bolts. I also placed the order for the replacement parts today...all reassuringly expensive, but I absolutely wanted to buy original Porsche wheel bearings rather than aftermarket. Same for the front lower balljoints, OE all the way. My meagre 13 row shopping list is almost £900 with the VAT!! By comparison, when I added up how much it would be to replace every nut, bolt and washer as well, the total would have been £1800. Back again when there's some more interesting progress being made. |
Ms. Merkel and the entire German Economy thank you for your purchase and investment, Sir.
BYW, I just rebuilt the torque tube from my 924S ("Yes, it's an S! Not an Audi engined POS", said the defensive owner. "It's also faster than a 944 because it slimmer...and more pure!" "It's the next 73RS....Hagerty put it on their Buy list") Where was I? Ball Bearings! I needed four bearings and Porsche AG doesn't sell them; I bought SKF items, made in Argentina. "Better than the Chinese $hit", said the guy at the excellent old-skool bearing supplier, EB Atmus, in Springfield, Massachusetts. So you, Sir Spencer, are a man of the world...why buy bearings from Porsche? Is the assumption that, like Glyco bearings being available both on the open market and via Porsche, that those Porsche sells have all been through QC and are the pick of the litter...same with your bearings? Hope you're well and keeping the Plague at bay. John |
Spenny, I'm sure I'm being thick; what spring plate bolts are there on a 964? I thought 964 did away with torsion bars and spring plates.
Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk |
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https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9293.jpg You can see the large inboard pivot on the left - this gets removed and replaced with the Elephant Racing monoball kit. The other fixings are eccentrics and slotted alignment adjustments with 2x locking bolts. All needs removing, rubber bush removed, plates replated, then rebuilt. Which poses another challenge - I need to speak to my plating shop and see if they're still working (doubtful). I also doubt whether any of the suppliers of home plating kits are sending stuff out either. Bugger. |
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Yeah all's well here thanks, self isolating and cracking on, chin up. Yeah, you hit the nail on the head with the Glyco analogy. I have it on extremely good authority (you know who you are!) that when I was having the transmission rebuilt, the bearings are available aftermarket, by the same manufacturer who supply Porsche. Said person, on their transmission, did go with the aftermarket version but very soon was bitten by one failing. Rebuild time all-over-again. Upon further investigation he found that the Porsche supplied items undergo FAR higher quality control than the part supplied directly. Admittedly at a far cheaper price, but it's the numerous levels of QC that the manufacturer is contracted to undertake, that you're paying for. So...yes, they are maybe half the price, but in the whole scheme of things versus how much the suspension project is costing, it's a relatively small percentage. I'm not into doing things twice; did that with the engine! Of course, the other factor is whether you can even source non Porsche stuff at the moment - everywhere is shutting down; I just heard a few minutes ago that I did just about sneak my order through in time, and it's arrived at my OPC. Hoping to now get it couriered across. |
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I only just realized when I saw this thread again today . I just snapped some pics of the fronts , but it looks like you made your own solution now ? They have a small spacer (4-5mm) between the top hat and the monoball . No sticktion there whatsoever . If you need more , let me know . ( I’m subscribing , so I’ll get notification of replies ) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585355117.jpg |
Here are pics of a euro rs top-mount .
Same thing . http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585361551.jpg |
Time for another update....
First off, most of the shopping list I ordered from Porsche Tonbridge have actually arrived....and at this point I need to say a couple of big "thank you's".... Firstly to Chris (TK); I mentioned to him in a WA message that I didn't think I had quite got my parts ordered in time, as Tonbridge called me on Tuesday morning to say that they had taken the decision to close the dealership to the public - so near and yet so far. Without me even asking him, he proactively put a call in to his local OPC to investigate price and availability in case Plan B would be to order them in the US and then ship over with the Elephant Racing parts. What a great guy. Secondly, thanks to Dan at OPC Tonbridge, who was fielding all the phonecalls that were diverted to him working from home. He had a sneaky suspicion that my parts would be arriving with the skeleton staff still in the dealership, but would go in on Thursday to make sure. He then called me back with a plan of action; everyone would be given a 20min time slot to arrive, park up and he would then walk the orders out and leave them by the car, thus not transgressing any social distancing rules. My slot was lunchtime yesterday - usefully - so I dashed over and collected per the plan. Top marks to Tonbridge for not taking the easy option and doing everything they can to help us enthusiasts keep working. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...1694BDAEC9.jpg Most of the parts have arrived, but there were some which needed to come from Germany, in addition to only one of the trailing arm bolts being shipped from Reading across to Tonbridge. Strange, but nevermind...these are now being ordered by Chris and will come over in a week or so. The final part of the Elephant Racing order are the bump steer correcting steering rack arms, these were due to arrive with ER midweek, then out for plating, then onwards ship to TurboKraft. Hopefully these will be with Chris this coming Wednesday, and then on to me. Chris also suggested I add a couple of other choice upgrades to the steering - upgrades I confess to not even being aware of and both made by Rothsport Racing and available through Chris..... 1) A steering rack bracing kit generally meant for 964/993's wearing 18" wheels (which I'm not, I've got the factory 17" Cups)...but the stiffer the better. 2) Polyurethane steering rack mounting bushings, which will remove the slight sponginess of the steering. I've not noticed it being spongy, but I'm sure when swapped over it'll be noticeable. |
In other news, the new bearing and seal press kits I bought a few weeks ago are lovely bits of kit - however, the largest sleeve in bearing kit isn't large enough to "receive" the rear wheel bearing. A 76mm OD sleeve is used to push out from the inboard side, but it needs a sleeve of 89mm ID (min) for the bearing to pull into.
So, time to order some steel - thankfully this come through and wasn't thwarted by the lockdown. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9291.jpg Of course, most of this will end us as swarf, but I wanted a 1-piece tool to match the rest of the set rather than use a tube and a stepped top-hat that engages into it. Mind you, it would've saved a LOT of work had I taken the easy option! https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...1A7C298773.jpg No kidding, this has taken two full evenings and Saturday morning to make! Being 4" in diameter, I could only hold it using the external reverse jaws on the 3-jaw chuck, which have about half the gripping surface of the regular jaws - care needed. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...9A72740347.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...5D9A5DB35B.jpg This limited me to making small cuts to bore out the middle, starting with 1mm cuts on the inner bore, and slowing down to 0.8, 0.6 and then 0.4mm cuts as I reached the faster surface speed of the outside edge....it took forever going from 15mm to 90mm! In the process, the coolant suds were being sprayed everywhere, so some ad-hoc measures to prevent my workshop from flooding... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...CE753EE50B.jpg And eventually ended up with the finished article, perhaps not the finest looking piece, but bang on dimensionally and perfectly functional.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9328.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9327.jpg Immediately put to use, and the right rear bearing is out!.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9330.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9331.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9332.jpg |
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Yes, I have now sorted it thanks, but I can see that the solution you have on the fronts also uses a nut on the shaft that looks to go down into the bearing itself, rather than just a simple Nyloc hex nut that sits on top. I have heard of these, and are used to address the situation where not enough of the thread on the shaft protrudes through the mount, to put a nut on it. This is the situation I had, where the ID of the top mount bearing isn't big enough to make a "reverse nut"....hence why I opened up the ID of my conical top hats, so they slide lower down onto the damper shaft, and not mounting up to the step. I've not machined anything that came with the KW's or the ER parts, so if my solution doesn't work (perhaps not enough height adjustment?) then I can revert and try something else. |
So, after a well-deserved lunchbreak and a mug of tea, this afternoon was spent clearing up the workshop, ridding the lathe of armfuls of razor sharp swarf and giving it a good old wipe down - it's been shamefully long since doing this, my old college machining tutors would be having a blue fit (before any of the apprentices went home each afternoon, every lathe, mill, drill and workbench had to be immaculate, every tool back into the Stores and in inspection done).
Then onto more of the fun stuff, the mission being to get that RHS trailing arm off the chassis. Job 1 - Remove the handbrake cable. First attempt using molegrips didn't show any signs of working, at least, not without mullering the ferrule in the process. Attempt two was to again try one of the parallel punches through the aperture where the cable runs through, but this time using a decently weighted ball pein hammer rather than a rubber faced mallet. Success!! That sharp metal contact obviously dislodged it enough to get it out....my Step 3 would've been to cut it and replace, so I'm glad it didn't come to that. Job 2 - Make copious notes and take photos of the current toe and camber settings. At the very least, I know they work to some extent, and will act as a starting point upon rebuilding. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9339.jpg Job 3 - Loosen the fixings on the spring plate, and prepare to remove the whole arm. Again, the 3/4" sq. drive breaker bar came in so handy, and within minutes the fixings were broken free. The air impact wrench did the hard work of removing them the rest of the way, and before I knew it, the trailing arm was off. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9340.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9341.jpg Clearly the suspension has been apart before in a previous life, as the M14 bolts for the front pivot and the spring bar are both coated in copper slip grease, which I'm sure the factory didn't use. The spring plate bushes have seen better days, with the usual problem of the seals deteriorating to the point of crumbling.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9342.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9343.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9344.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9345.jpg So, one corner done. The other rear assembly is coming off tomorrow, then its time to get into the engine bay, remove the intercooler and undo the fixings for the damper top mounts. |
So, last night was spent "off project" - The fluorescent lamp units in my garage and workshop were gradually failing (the electronic ballast packs), to the point where one of them was tripping the mains circuit. At best, I had 1 of 4 working lights in the workshop (fortunately the one above the lathe) and 3 of 4 working in the garage (unfortunately the dead one was above the corner I'm dismantling).
Enough is enough, time to replace the old skool tubes with new LED tubes. Easy enough to do, with some minor re-working of the electrics inside each light fitting (essentially bypassing these failing ballast packs). At the same time, switching from a colour temp of "regular" 4000k to 6500k "daylight". The 5ft workshop lights were easy enough, but the 6ft garage ones a little trickier, as they were slightly different internally and obviously I had to work over the car - lots of protective covers and care required. To anyone thinking about doing it - just do it. The price per tube has now come down significantly; I paid £19 for each 6ft tube and £14 for the 5ft (both +VAT), 8 of each from a local electrical wholesaler. The difference is astounding but difficult to capture in a photo. I said to Chris last night, I may as well have been working with a Charles Dickens candle light for all these years, such is the difference. The 6ft tubes are also almost half the power, 30W per tube versus 58W for the fluorescent tubes. That's a healthy saving when you have 16 of them burning for hours at a time. The added bonus is that they light up instantly, and don't require a few minutes to heat up and get to full brightness. So, now I can see clearly again..... |
A quick projectette in the workshop over lockdown-lunch, 20mins away from a laptop!
Thought I'd have a look and see what's involved with removing the bush from the spring plate that came off the other day. Well, one thing led to another, and before I knew it, it was out. Dead. Simple. Step 1 - remove the 2 x wire spring hoops which retain the rubber seal on the non-tapered side of the plate. Using a pick, these came off very easily, and pulled the boot off with it. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9372.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9373.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9375.jpg Step 2 - remove a lot of the grease that's still inside the joint. I gave the area a wire brush clean while I was at it, just because. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9376.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9377.jpg Step 3 - Find a suitable bearing removal sleeve to sit the plate into, while pressing it out on the hydraulic press. 78mm ID is the one you need. New bearing removal kit proving very useful straight away, can't beat having the right tools. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9378.jpg Step 4 - Per the instructions from Elephant Racing, use a gas torch to heat up the rubber lining, non tapered side. When it starts smoking and the garage stinks like a pikey caravan site, you know it's getting warm enough. New MAPP gas torch worked a treat - again, wish I'd bought one years ago. Now use the hydraulic press to push on the metal "mushroom" centre part of the bush, the whole assembly then slides out beautifully, taking the rubber with it. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9379.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9380.jpg Step 5 - Ta da. Ready for wire brushing and re-plating. Hopefully the insertion of the new ER monoball will be as straightforward. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9381.jpg FOR SALE - 1 x LIGHTLY USED SPRING PLATE BUSH - £0 ONO https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9382.jpg |
"Pikey caravan site": I feel like I'm there. It seems like the gritty, grey BBC/ITV murder mysteries often involve the detectives visiting some greasy-haired miscreant living under such circumstances, along with his inevitablly haggard, angry wench and scared, damaged children. The caravan will be moldy and there's a pitbull or three showing their fangs. "I've got nothing to say to you, copper!" "Well, we'll see if you're still whistling that tune once we've told Old Man Cyril that it was you what grassed him out five years ago, won't we matey?" "You bastid PC Plod's are all the bloody same... You'd arrest your own Mum if it pleased your Captain!" Etc. I watched too much telly as a kid.
I did a similar conversion from flourescents (themselves salvaged some years ago, horrible old things, especially when a ballast would go ker-pow) to LED's. Such improvements, along with acquiring new tools and gaining more mechanical nous over the years can be a useful and satisfying offset to the inevitable deterioration of one's corpus. Is it easy to get stuff plated in your area (plague notwithstanding)? Great stuff, keep it rolling, please. John |
Evening folks,
More lockdown progress to report. Yesterday evening the second trailing arm came off. Yet again the handbrake was an absolute pain, but with some localised MAPP heat to the housing on the arm, then a parallel punch, it relented. Next, I took some notes and photo's of the settings on the spring plate, then time to undo the big-stuff and remove the arm. The spring plate was stripped down within minutes, then onto tackling the outboard chassis pivot bush. It's a big old bugger, and a few stages are required to partially disassemble it before removing the core. The bush as it's installed from the factory.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9396.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9395.jpg First job is to again heat the rubber; the Elephant Racing instructions don't mention this, suggesting that the inners should just punch out. Hmm, it felt bloody tight to me, even after heating (but perhaps not enough heat). I gave it plenty of heat - outdoors so not to inhale the burning rubber - and then levered the shallower of the two pivots out. It's asymmetric, and on the second arm I did try levering the bigger pivot out first - it didn't work, purely because one half sits inside the other, like a telescopic sleeve. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9390.jpg Remove the shorter, smaller half first. Then, the longer, larger headed one can be driven out from behind. Using lots of heat makes the rubber more brittle, and thus easier to rip when removing. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...B6A86F041D.jpg Trim some of the torn rubber back, so that you have better access for the next part... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...A4A71F057F.jpg ...which is to use a screwdriver to lever out the jumbo washers/flanges.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9391.jpg And now you need to remove the full diameter collar from each side, which retains the central core. Again, this is where I think my method is easier than that suggested by ER. They say to use a Dremel to cut a slit into this collar. I tried this, but the diameter of the cutting blade, despite being small, is still a bit big to get in there with. Perhaps if I'd have used a more accute angle I may have been more successful...BUT....you don't need to do this at all. The collars are aluminium. All you need to do is use a woodworking chisel, narrow (mine is about 5mm wide) and sharp. If you carefully sit the chisel tip into the ridge between the collar and the trailing arm and gently tap towards the centre of the bush, you'll easily deform the collar. Do this a few more times.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9397.jpg And then grab a pair of pliers and pull it out. No need to cut a slit, that only adds risk to damaging the arm. Once they are both removed, I set it up on the hydraulic press; I think from memory it was a 78mm sleeve on the underside, and a 52mm sleeve on top. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9389.jpg This bit is dead easy, barely any pressure required to push it out, and this is what you end up with... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9393.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9394.jpg Needless to say, the second arm took a total of 15mins to do! Next job is to clean them. I was really hoping to get all the ally parts vapour blasted to look like factory new, then coat them in clear Dinitrol to protect. But....with the lockdown, and quite rightly the Police getting more strict on people flouting the rules and travelling unnecessarily, it's not the responsible thing to do, for me to drive 50 miles each way to drop them off with the guy who does it, and then collect a few days later. So, I'll be applying liberal amounts of elbow grease to scrub them clean. Anyway, they'd only stay sparkly clean for about 5 minutes when the car gets driven. I guess I ought to now think about dismantling the front struts, steering rack and carrier frame. Now, this is going to be a lot harder, as I've not yet managed to loosen the stub axle nuts in the uprights. Cast your mind back a few years, and I did this when installing the traction control timing wheels. So, I know they've been torqued up correctly, as we used a HUGE truck torque wrench. And now we are in lockdown, I can't ask Dad, Brother, neighbour for assistance to apply the brakes. This could be a problem....needs a cup of tea. |
In other news, I mentioned a few weeks ago that I was debating whether to invest in a DIY electroplating kit. Primarily, I fancy giving it a go; it's another tickbox I can check but now that we're staying at home and a lot of business are furloughed, I can no longer get over to my usual plating shop.
So....after watching many a YouTube video and doing some research, I've bought this Nickel Zinc plating kit For the same thickness coating, the zinc + nickel kit will provide more corrosion resistance than normal BZP plating, so more robust for suspension components that are subject to our wet and salty roads. The kit has everything I need apart from a power supply and distilled water, so the heater and air pump are in there, along with the chemicals, gold and clear passivate, anodes, hanging wires, etc. The power supply (30v, 10A) is coming from Amazon and will arrive tomorrow. I think the plating kit is a few days away yet. I confess to being a little apprehensive, but excited as well. This is a bit like CostaP and his home-designed, home-made exhaust system (although I still think he's more nuts than me - certainly braver!) |
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Now, I'm sure you'd also have watched many episodes of Minder, eh? Arthur Daily and Terry? I'd like to say I also watched The Professionals, but that was a tad before my time/a tad after my bedtime at that point. Sorry, I think you must've been posting while I was writing up. Yeah, the plating shop I've used previously are only about 6-7miles away. Decent enough quality but can be hit and miss with timing. If you catch them right, I have had the occasional turnaround within a week but more often than not it's 2-3 weeks. And like you say, all assuming they're still open, and if they are, then I ought not to be travelling over there. Playing by the rules for the greater good. So, per post above, I've bought my own "Breaking Bad" kit. If you see a mushroom cloud a yonder, you know I stuck 10A onto the wrong "thing", haha. |
I was raised with a mixture of British and American cop shows. Won't go off on a pages-long tangent here and now ("Phew!", said everyone in relief), other than to say that when I moved from Bristol to Southern California in 1981, I thought anyone could live in a caravan, aka camper on the side of Pacific Coast Highway near Malibu ... like Jim Rockford. Not so!
That's a neat detail, how the two bushing halves are indexed to one another. They are much simpler on an SC/Carrera. I look forward to your plating results. Stay well, John |
Minor update - the electroplating kit and my power supply have arrived. I've got sod-all food in the house, but I do have chemicals. Wait, that came out wrong...
Power supply looks fine; it got about 270 reviews at >4.5* on Amazon, about the most reviewed PSU of this type and price range, so that's the one I went with, although preferred the look of another lesser reviewed model. However it's not about the looks, it's just got to do a very simple job. This supply is also going to be use useful for other non plating functions; testing circuit boards and other such things I can't think of right now. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9405.jpg Unfortunately, I must've had a mad moment the other day when ordering - I discussed with them about the Nickel Zinc kit, and then went and ordered the Bright Nickel plating kit. More expensive and doesn't have any of the zinc electrolytes, zinc anodes or passivate chemicals. What a dumbass. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...sizerender.jpg But it looks very comprehensive. The correct additional items are going to be dispatched on Monday, along with a proper-big book on plating. Not required (they provide printed instruction pamphlets) but hey, if you're going to do it, then overdo it. Not sure whether to hang onto the bright nickel "stuff" or send it back - can't immediately think of a requirement for it, as being a 964 there's no brightwork. |
Font suspension teardown time....
Making a start with the calipers, disc and backing plate removed. Scabby looking, can't wait to get this cleaned! https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9406.jpg The ARB drop link has seen it's best days... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9407.jpg And once everything is removed, time to attempt the solo stub axle nut removal. Preferably without smashing my teeth out. You may just be able to see form this pic, but what I've done here is rig up the 3/4" sq drive breaker bar to the head of the bolt, levering against the garage floor, and being kept in place with a ratchet tie-down strap. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9421.jpg And by jove, it blooming well worked. The Snap On torque multiplier on the outside, again, levering against the floor while I then used my 1/2" sq drive breaker bar (and a range of adapters) to bounce on, and it then slowly relented. Happy days! What is a little more Heath Robinson was the rig I needed to construct in the hydraulic press, to remove the hub from the upright. It didn't help that all-of-a-sudden the hand pump on the press decided not to deliver much in the way of piston movement. It worked well enough at gone midnight last night, so I could finish the job. This morning, a quick check revealed that the oil level in the pump had got too low, so I guess I was just pumping air. Thankfully I have a bottle and a half of hydraulic oil stashed in my cupboards, so fingers cross that's fixed it for todays activities. In other news, I'd resigned myself to the fact the suspension parts are just going to have to be scrubbed as best I can get them. Not what I've been planning mentally for 4-5yrs, I really wanted them to be vapour blasted, but the situation dictates otherwise. However....about 20yds from my front door yesterday lunchtime was a van, signwritten with "Kent Vapour Blasting"!!! When I saw it, I did then remember picking up a pamphlet at a local bike show a few years ago - I assumed they'd also be shut and in lockdown mode. Anyway, I gave them a call yesterday late pm, and lo-and-behold, Steve at KVB called me back in the early evening! I'd assumed the reason he was parked outside my house was to collect or deliver parts, but actually, it turns out his old house is across the road, now lived in by his parents!! He was dropping in some food/provisions. So, after a natter, I explained what I wanted to achieve, and we have a plan. He'll be back over dropping food off again, and will collect my parts in the same trip. A 2-3 day turnaround and then he'll do likewise and drop them back when done. HURRAHH!! The rebuilding Gods are looking kindly upon this project, it seems. Right, coffee break over, front left hand corner next.... |
Bright nickel: good for old tools?
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Right, final update for the weekend - I'm bloody knackered, lots of energy being exerted to get that final corner broken down....but I've got there. Almost.
The suspension itself came off without any drama. Much the same as the RHS except obviously I knew a few tricks this time. (The RH corner components) https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...67AB7A12C8.jpg The only bolts on the suspension to play-up are the M6 long bolts that hold the rubber brake deflector in place on the lower control arm. Two of them per wishbone and they've all sheared. Galvanic corrosion well-and-truly preventing them coming out, so I'll have to drill out what's left. Talking about galvanic corrosion...the problems started with trying to undo the aluminium castings that go fore and aft, onto which the control arm bolts. Two M12 bolts at the front, and 2x M10's at the back. The front ones screw into the chassis tub, the rear ones screw into a long plate with 2x captive threads (they're not nuts in the traditional sense). Steel bolt, no copperslip/aluslip protecting them, going through two aluminium castings into a steel nut. Guess what happens after 28 years... Plenty of penetrating fluid on everything in advance, then this evening try and get them off. The RHS ones felt a little plastic, that feeling you get when you think the heads are going to shear. So I went a tackled the LHS. With the "persuader" breaker bar, and some gentle springing, they came out without any drama. After a white dust cloud that Pablo Escabar would've been proud of, this is what you end up with.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9430.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9431.jpg Buoyed by this success I went back to the RHS, but what a pain in the arse. The outermost bolt has sheared at some point along it's length and has come out only about 3-4mm and now just spins, albeit extremely tightly. The innermost one has come out of the captive nut assembly, is about 25mm out, and is now just rotating but a lot easier than the other one. Argghhh!! The front ones came out just fine, but look very much like the above bolts. I think the only way this is going to work, is to remove that whole subframe assembly along with the steering rack and dismantle it on the ground, maybe cutting the bolts off in the gap which is there. Moving onto other things, hub and bearing removal time from the LH upright. Not the prettiest setup - and another use case for the ratchet strap - but it just about worked... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9429.jpg |
Time for another update.
A very successful, albeit very hard couple of evenings work; the front suspension has fought me every inch of the way! The RH longitudinal strut did actually come out without any problems the next day. I left some of my favourite penetrating oil soaking in overnight, and then early in the evening when it was still sociably acceptable, I got the air impact gun on the bolts, and they flew out. Well, not really, but they came out enough for me to remove just that strut rather than the whole assembly. Next job, disconnect the steering rack from the column and the power steering lines, to get the lateral beam out. Three of the four M8 allen bolts came out without any bother, the fourth one felt just like either the head was going to shear, or the allen key socket was going to round-off. Another application of penetrating fluid, an hour or so to soak, then I got the 1/2" sq drive break bar on it and used the "spring" technique - some high pressure but applied in a springy/bouncy kind of way rather than just heaving on it in one continuous pull. The repetitive shock of doing this did the trick and it finally came loose. Undoing the lateral brace was easy, but check out the galvanic corrosion that's underneath where the M10 double nut plate sits (these are the rear-most fittings for the longitudinal braces). Unbelievable, and as part of my prep work to get them vapour blasted I literally had to chisel this corrosion off, it must've been 3mm thick in places. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9466.jpg The double captive nut plate, from the RHS with remains of that sheared M10 bolt... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9463.jpg And then after some heat (loving that MAPP gas torch, used it so many times so far) and the old-trusty stud removal tool from the engine rebuild days... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9464.jpg If you look carefully at the nut that doesn't have the stud in it, you'll see the recess in the plate; on the seized bolt, this recess was full of chalky corrosion right the way up onto the bolt itself. No wonder it snapped. Before attempting removal I carefully chiselled and picked it away. Under normal circumstances, for about £5 per plate, I'd replace them....but Porsche GB haven't changed their policy on shipping parts to their dealerships (as of Tuesday this week), so no chance of getting replacements. "Make do and mend" is the theme here. Onto the front lower control arms, and the continuing job of stripping them down. Again, this has taken far longer than the rear trailing arms, these things are in there TIGHT. The front-most bush is the hardest without a doubt. It's big, and in my case - guess what - corroded in to the arm. After heating the rubber to remove the steel cores, I tried using the press, with bush removal tools, but even maxing out the hydraulics at 12 tonnes load, it wasn't moving - and frankly that's just a little scary knowing that everything is under that much tension. On one of them, the MAPP gas did suddenly allow it to break free by 5mm, but then no more. I certainly didn't want to keep applying this level of heat either. So, nothing for it but to use the hacksaw method to carefully cut the outer sleeve and release the tension. Even then, it was still an absolute pig to remove, but eventually I got them out. Next job, the rear-most split bushes. The first job is absolutely to remove the steel cores with heat. Then, you need to use a 1" hole saw to open up the I.D. This create a lot of friction with the saw, so liberal use of GT85 spray lubricant (smells great) gives the drill an easier time. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9448.jpg Now, at this point, do I try the hacksaw method again or wait until the parcel from TurboKraft arrives, with the Elephant Racing split bush removal tool? Hmmm....I'd heard mixed reports on this tool - I think Rob Goughery in his build thread, broke his on the first attempt. I ordered it "just in case" really. And then - again I think the Rebuild Gods are on my side - I got an email saying my delivery was due tomorrow instead of more than a week later! This is a turn-up for the books - both Chris and I are still in disbelief. We assumed that FedEx would just sit on it until the original stated delivery date of Thursday 16th. Decision made - I hang on and try the proper tool. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...G_9451%202.jpg Oh my God, am I glad that I did. Following Elephant Racings instructions and pre-heating the control arm locally to the bush, then using the tool, each half of the bush flew out. Literally. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9449.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9450.jpg I did try to rig it up in the press, but holding it without a proper jig was nigh-on impossible (too deep to use a bearing cup underneath), so it was time to use the "percussion method" (hit it with a big hammer). And after all that, you end up with... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9447.jpg Check out that corrosion on the front bush. That Elephant Racing split bush tool is ABSOLUTELY worth the money. No, it's not cheap but it most certainly did the trick. It's surprisingly meaty in build, and after multiple whacks with the hammer, not a sign of damage to the ends, so clearly it's been nicely hardened. The trick is not to overtighten the allen bolt once the tangs engage into the gap between each bush half. It only needs to be just over finger tight to prevent the tangs from jumping out under load. Excessively tight and you'll probably score the I.D. of the control arm. |
Next up - the delivery from TurboKraft!
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9441.jpg In there are the Tarett ARB drop links, F&R. I did originally want the Elephant Racing ones but they weren't in stock, so to save extended shipment time we went with these. They come highly recommended, and will absolutely do the job. Rubber boots for them as well. I know some folk prefer not to fit boots, preferring instead to inspect and clean the rose joints as they feel the boots can trap moisture and actually work against the whole point of them. Not sure I'm in that camp - not for here in Britain anyway, where I absolutely do want to keep any winter salt out. This is an all-year car for me, we often get gorgeous sunny winter days to enjoy the car, so I prefer that extra level of protection. The Rothsport steering rack bushes are there, along with their brace. I did laugh, as I honestly was expecting a far larger item - I'd not really studied it in much detail, going along with Chris's recommendation to fit one...Now I'm far more intimately familiar with the front suspension (!!!), of course I can see where it mounts. At the bottom are the Elephant Racing bump steer reducing steering arms. These will get sent with the rack, when that goes off for a rebuild and refurb in a few days time. They certainly look nice, and remove that rubber jointed centre section on the factory arms - these are a 1-piece arm not just the outer arms. The rest of the items are the replacement Sport bushes and monoballs for the spring plates. More of that when I come to fit them. It's rather sobering knowing that this little lot is about $3300 worth! Rachel gave me one of those wide eyed, curious eyebrow looks on FaceTime when I showed her. she's too polite to say, but I'm sure it was a "WTAF?!" moment, lol. |
When you say "ERP" do you mean "Elephant Racing" or "Eisenlohr Racing Products". Cary Eisenlohr built a reputation over many decades of being involved in racing and making racing parts. I really hate it that Elephant Racing does nothing to discourage this confusion. I suspect it was done on purpose.
Personally, I would buy from Tarett, the real ERP, or Rebel racing...... |
Final instalment for this evening, the lower control arms. Again.
In the photo in post#1266 a few days ago, you can see that the lower control arm has what's described as a rubber "air duct" bolted to the rear leg. It's held on by 2x M6 bolts, with nuts rather than tapped holes in the arm. Another "FAIL" from Porsche on this one. No lubricant, and they're absolutely seized in. The heads snap straight off, no sign of movement, all four. After trying with another smaller stud removal tool (I REALLY wish I had a smaller version of the one photographed above), the only option was to drill them out. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9465.jpg Some careful mounting on the pillar drill base, then some careful lining-up of the centre, and I decided to drill each stud from the top and again from the underside. I did try drilling one of them all the way through but it screwed up, the drill got deflected and it came out wonky underneath. Annoying nut not a big drama, I did get it out, oversized the hole to 8mm, then made a sleeve in the lathe with a 6mm hole in it. Loctite retainer then used to install into the arm. It went to prove that I clearly hadn't spent enough time getting the arm perpendicular to the drill (it is a very odd shape to try and hold, with gentle tapering on the edges). Now we're on the homeward stretch - they just needs to be degreased in the cleaning tank to get them ready for vapour blasting.... https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMG_9469.jpg Even after this clean, they're already looking a lot better. Note that a lot of the factory Dinitrol is still in place, in all it's horrid brown glory. These all get collected tomorrow, and you never know, I may get them back over the 4-day Easter break we have. In the meantime, the steering rack needs to be removed (it's still hanging onto the splines of the column, but is now drained of its fluid). The rear dampers need to come off, but the intake system of the engine needs to be taken out to get to the turrets. Then, I'm going to have a go with plating stuff - the rest of my kit arrived yesterday. |
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I have that zink plating kit and the same power supply.
It takes some trial and error and very clean parts. The resultats so far have been mixed. A few practical things. Get a lot of large plasic cans to store the solutions. Get some rectangular tubs to do the plating in. Distance between the parts and the anodes are important. Get heater elements to warm the solutions, I use 500w electric heaters thats used in the coolant on cars. |
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From memory (and I really can't be arsed to go back and check), yesterdays post was the first and only time I've (as you've pointed out, wrongly) added "Products" to the description - I'm sure I've seen it elsewhere on the many threads I've read - ALL of which, by the way, eulogise about Elephant Racings products and the end result they deliver...hence why I added "Products" as I thought I was missing something. I will edit the above post. In terms of who's products are best, I'm not interested. Unless the Elephant Racing products let me down or disappoint in some other way, unlikely, then I'm comfortable in the decisions I've made. If you've read the full thread, from Day 1 I've always stated this is a ROAD car, it will likely never go on a track apart from maybe a safe testing spot. That's why I chose Elephant Racing with their sports stiffness rubber bushes. I'm not interested in poly bushes or monoballs all-round, that's for track use and requires higher maintenance. I have another track focussed car with rosejointed/monoballed suspension, Ohlins dampers and other trick bits, that's ready to go in the other garage. |
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Thanks for the advice, duly noted. Because we're in lockdown, I'll have to order the large rectangular tubs from Amazon and wait a few days (Prime is no longer a next day service over here, understandably). I have one very large plastic tray which I use for cleaning parts in, probably too shallow at approx 6" deep. Are you thinking the sort of tubs you use for storage, the kind that are 1ft x 2ft x 1.5ft deep? I did get a heater element in the kit plus an aeriator to agitate the solution. The vendors also emailed me a spreadsheet with a surface area estimator for nuts and bolts - it should give me an approximate starting point for setting the current. In my second order I also bought the electroplating book they sell, more comprehensive than the pamphlet which comes with the kit but I'm yet to grab a coffee and sit down to read it. Perhaps that's a job for this long weekend, unwind a little in the sun (my back garden, before anyone accuses me of not sticking to the Government rules) and read what it has to say. |
I don't really care what parts you use. It's your car and you should use whatever parts make YOU happy. I gave my opinion on who makes the best parts as I asked what you meant by "ERP" because it didn't appear you used any ERP parts. You can listen to my opinion or ignore it. Again, I don't really care.
I am just tired of seeing Elephant Racing parts get associated with the ERP name. ERP has an unblemished reputation in the Porsche community that Elephant Racing does not have. What happens is some people talk up ERP parts and a lot of people get confused and think people mean "Elephant Racing" when they don't. Hence why I asked what you meant and the clarification...... |
Spenny
I have 2 tubs, one for cleaning and one for plating, they are abut 1ft by 2 ft and a a little less than 1ft high (might be limited there). Pretty sturdy, made for mixing small batches of cement. Then of cause a series of buckets with tight fitting lids for the different acid baths etc. Beware the pile of buckets, tubs, containers etc will be huge :) BTW I'm pretty happy with Elephant Racings products to, at least for my semi serious street and track day cars. I find Chucks service excellent and that is in many cases just as importat as the actual products, as long as they aren't utter crap! |
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Agree with your thoughts on Elephant kit; no direct experience (yet) on how they perform, we'll see, but anything is going to be a significant improvement over the stock Turbo setup, never known for being very good, even in period. Short of swapping to Carrera trailing arms and then new wheels with accommodating offsets, I think this should work out fine. TurboKraft are also a reseller of ER parts; knowing Chris very well and thoroughly respecting his opinion is good enough for me - he doesn't resell crap products, as like any smaller company, I'm sure he can't afford to be dealing with the fallout of doing so. As alluded to earlier, the dialogue I've had with Elephant hasn't been fantastic, specifically around mating their top mounts to anything other than their own Vonn dampers, but there's no doubting the quality of their parts once their in my hand. Rob Goughary (aka "Goughary"), who's massive thread I'm following over on Rennlist, also speaks highly - not just publicly. We've exchanged many PM's over the years and his private opinion is the same after using their stuff on many 964's, which he's been working on since starting that thread. For fast road applications, it has delivered superb results for him. |
Britain sure is a corrosive environment for vehicles, huh? John
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