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Terrible news. Please get well soon.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
It is just a question of time(weather) Spencer, that's what you have to say yourself! Hang on! ;-)
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Let me be the first to volunteer for the Porscheaholics Global Task Force. A programme dedicated to assist a fellow Porsche mate in need. Mission objective to provide cheering up and to assist him with his project.....probably involves lots of beer 😉 Wishing you a speedy recovery mate 👍🏻 |
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The inaugural "UK Engine-building-palooza" is definitely something with potential I reckon.... I need some folk to fly some of their good luck over! |
Only a small update, but quite a significant one.
I was sitting down last weekend and doing some spreadsheet juggling of individual component weights, to get the optimum combination across rods, rod bolts, piston/rings and piston wrist pins. There was some fettling work required with a spread of 2.5gms from heaviest to lightest. Before doing any alterations, I thought I'd just give the wrist pins a quick look/see on the rods, and then had a face-palm moment. I'd made the assumption that the previous pistons had used 23mm pins - they didn't, instead 5yrs ago the rods were re-bushed and sized for 22mm. Not the end of the world by any means, a quick re-sizing and a hone out to 23mm and "job done". Of course, the rods would have to be removed but that in itself would allow me to get them end-to-end balanced, which I never did the first time around. But why would I want to only spend a handful of ££'s when I can spend a couple of thousand? Lol. A couple of calls with Chris, and I've decided to invest in a lovely new set of CP Carrillo steel rods. A set is in stock and should be available pretty quickly....the back-of-sofa fund hunting will commence tonight. In the meantime, I'll be removing the existing rods with ARP bolts, and they're going to be up for sale...I can't keep storing the removed parts! If interested, shoot me a PM. The ARP bolts have only been tightened once, and this was done using a stretch gauge (as you can check in the earlier pages of this build thread). The small-ends were re-bushed for the rebuild, so as a 22mm size they've done no more than 400-500miles. Of course, if honing out to 23mm, then you're back to zero miles |
Hello Spencer, ;-)
Satisfied for your future purchase! I was able to balance the same rooms(parts,plays) at my home(with me) by means of a balance of very precise weighing in 0.01g, I balanced everything in the same precision. |
We have a saying over here in New Amsterdam. . . "lighten your wallet ease your mind."
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Evening folks,
Time for another update....Slightly out of order, but the most significant step forward is that my luuuverly new Carrillo rods arrived from some bloke called Chris in Arizona? Anyway, they look very nice indeed..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0895.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0893.jpg Last week, I delivered the new pistons, rods, flywheel, clutch assembly, front pulley and my custom cam phase pickup wheel over to Engine Balancing Services in Essex. This was my first decent length drive out since busting my arm....it felt very odd - not so much getting used to the warp factor pace of the car, but the coordination of stupid things like using sat-nav and driving down unfamiliar roads in darkness...sounds crazy, I know, but 7 weeks is the longest period I've not driven for since I was 17! Anyway, onto Engine Balancing Services....this guys an interesting chap. Not only has he got a great home workshop setup (with motorbike engine dyno cell...) but he's also the mastermind behind an aspirational motorbike land speed record project. If that's your kind of thing (dumb question) then have a look on Facebook for "52Express". This bike is powered by a RR turbine engine and is being ridden by none other than James Toseland (2x World Superbike Champ, hence the #52); it's the competitor to the US built Triumph bike that Guy Martin is going to have another attempt with. Needless to say, Alex @ EBS comes across as a very clever and meticulous, and has been recommended to me by a mate. I'm hoping to get all the parts back by the end of this week, so that I can then spend the following fortnight assembling the engine again. I have a fortnight booked as vacation, so apart from a few days where Lucy and I will be venturing over to Wales for a break (hoping to get up Mt. Snowdon, weather providing), it'll give me plenty of opportunity to get well underway with the rebuild. The cylinder heads have all now been cleaned of the old sealing compound....time consuming but a few hours doing this out in the sunshine wasn't too much of a hassle! Yesterday I went across to my wiring loom guy, to refresh our memories as to what mods we're going to make (more later), and where to breakout out these additional items. Well worth the trip over; the engine half of the loom is partially stripped...its a shame as the mods are quite disruptive but Simon knows what my expectations are in terms of doing a proper job, and not something that looks like a hack-job. Hoping to get the loom back in a few weeks time. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0963.jpg And finally, todays job was to remove the old rods from the crank, in readiness of receiving the new Carrillos back. All pretty straightforward, care being taken not to drop the shells, which inevitably come loose with the tapping needed to separate the bearing cap form the rod. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0986.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0985.jpg Shoot me a PM if you need a very nice set of conrods ;) ...they're all ready to go! More updates in a week or so, I guess. |
Hello Spencer,
Quite slowly but surely, I hope that you get better! ;-) |
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Yeah it has been "steady progress" so far, but I have the next 2 weeks off of work to get a lot of engine building done (and to spend 4 days in the fantastic Snowdonia region in her half-term school holiday)....so....lots of progress to come!! |
Time for another quick update - there's going to (hopefully) be quite a few more update bulletins this next week or so.
Yesterday was just a bloody great day spent with Lucy, doing a whole load of great Father/Daughter stuff, including a visit back up to Essex to collect the parts that Alex Macfadzean has finished fine-tuning for me. In summary, the parts being balanced were:
The rods needed adjustment, which I'm naively surprised by; I kind of thought that aftermarket rods like these would come from Carrillo balanced to within a gnats-cock, with the balancing feedback being "they were pretty much spot on, Spencer"...but it turns out the small-ends needed work. I do openly admit that my assumptions may be woefully wide of the expectation-mark! I also appreciate that there are schools-of-thought that say that with oil retention and splashing that of course happens, getting to within this level of accuracy could be unnecessary. (Personally I don't subscribe to that, that level of uncertainty goes against my OCD tendancies, lol) Pistons and pins are also now balanced, with any adjustment being made by small tweaks to the edges of the pin inside diameters, rather than the pistons which have been coated (I don't want this to be compromised by material removal). The flywheel (genuine OE) needed about 4g removing; there were already weight removal drillings on the OD of the F/W, but I guess the starter motor ring has thrown this off a little. Apparently the clutch housing was very close, only a minor amount of mass removed. The clutch housing has been index marked to the flywheel; the starter motor ring has also been index pinned onto the flywheel. The front pulley needed a minor tweak as well, directly opposite the 2x welded on weights that the factory have tagged on. The cam position pickup is something that I took up to Alex for his thoughts; the unit I made has 6 x tapped holes on the circumference for positioning the pickup in a variety of places, to time it differently from the crank pickup signal. All I need to do is remove that pickup to weigh, then place an equal mass counterweight in the opposite hole. The cost of Alex's balancing work itself was very reasonable - but the cost for an external machine shop to make 2x mandrels to mount the flywheel and front pulley was "reassuringly" expensive. Kind of wish I'd split open the crankcase and taken the crank up there now....but I also know that splitting a (non leaking) case sealed with Threebond would be a shame, not to mention a complete b*****d of a job. So, that's the engine stuff... But while we were up there (at his business premises this time) we got to see the "52Express" streamliner. Wow. In one workshop sits the vehicle itself, currently the middle third(ish), housing the cockpit and the mock-up engine. The front section with the steering wasn't on there, neither was the rear section for the swingarm. Lucy got to sit where James Toseland will hopefully one day be sitting to break the wheel-driven 400mph 2-wheeled record.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Render%202.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...SizeRender.jpg In another building is an amazing engine dyno cell, with one of the real RR Gnome engines hooked up to a Schenker dyno, testing oil tanks (versus engine temps).... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1027.jpg Interesting to discuss this unit, and see some of the closeup detail. This won't come as any surprise to somebody with any aviation experience, but to me (who doesn't) seeing things like every single fixing being a 12-pt piece was amazing. Then to get an overview of how these engines work (constant speed?) and realising that such a compact unit delivers north of 1,200hp....needless to say it raised my eyebrows. Short article in MCN about it >> 52Express MCN Article We had a very nice couple of hours up there, chatting with Alex about his previous projects. Turns out he was very good friends with Brian Hart (as in F1 Hart engines), having worked for him and remained close friends until Brians passing a few years ago. I believe Gerry Anderson's also a friend with many F1 stories being recounted. He designed and built the Penetrator2 wheel-driven bike to go in excess of 200mph, powered by a turbo Norton rotary engine in 1991. Unfortunately this was on loan and lost in the tragic fire that destroyed a lot of the National Motorcycle Museum in 2003. More recently, he's been involved with Don Vesco's Turbinator project ....so....he likes his high speed stuff then! |
Hello Spencer,
Brilliant, everything goes well, in that I can read you are lucky enough(have the opportunity) to have in your circle of acquaintances of the very competent people in their job(business), your project can well only succeed. :) |
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Some quick shots of the rods, post balancing.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1070.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1066.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1087.jpg |
This weeks progress has been of the slow-but-careful type. Checking the rod clearances on the crank journals, full and thorough clean and then a build of #1 cylinder to check volume for CR calculations. There's been a bit of a hiccup as well, but that's now been overcome and we're good-to-go.
A thorough cleaning of the rods following the grinding work needed to balance them; of course I can't risk there being any grinding remnants in there. Somehow the tube of lube that came with the rods has gone AWOL (possibly sitting in Alex's workshop somewhere) but per Carrillos guidance on their install sheets, I'll mix some engine oil with some moly base grease to coat the threads and the undersides of the heads. I don't have access to an accurate dial bore gauge to measure the ID of the rod BE's with the shells installed (nor do I have a 2"-3" digital micrometer to set up such a gauge...it's on the shopping list). But I do have plenty of Plastigauge. I consistently measured a fatter "spread" than the 0.050mm indication on each rod journal - not as large a clearance as the 0.038 patch, so I would guess that each rod is around the 0.045 mark. The Porsche spec is 0.030 - 0.088mm clearance, so I'm comfortably within the parameters - in fact, looking back at my build sheet from the first assembly, I'm running tighter clearances this time; the range of clearances on Build #1 were 0.059 - 0.066mm as measured on a dial bore gauge. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1080.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1084.jpg Todays job was to work out the compression ratio options. If you remember back, the cylinders were damaged en-route to LN Engineering by the couriers. Certainly nothing disastrous, it required a 0.1mm skim of the head mating surfaces to remove some marring. However, this in turn affected the channel depth for the fire-rings, which then affects the rings themselves. So, the channels were re-cut by Chris's trusted machining shop once the repair work had been done by LN Engineering (they're all nice and round again!). At the same time, they made me a new set of fire rings, each one being custom to accommodate the ever-so-slight variation in the corresponding channels in the heads (...that were machined by the clown who screwed me over some years ago). The new rings are a little taller as well, and now made of a known grade material, so I feel a lot more comfortable that somebody who knows what they're doing, has now supplied the parts. Back to volume checking....because of the mating surface skim, we now need to recover that deck height using the copper base gaskets. Chris supplied a number of different options in one of the shipments a few months ago, including some trick Viton coated pieces, at 0.30mm versus the stock 0.25mm. After getting the engine stand wedged level and tilted slightly to get the intake pocket of the piston at the highest point, this morning was spent rigging up the burette. The piston needed dropping by 5mm so it sat below the deck. I had a cunning idea this time; I gave the underside of my perspex sheet a coating of Autoglym Silicon Resin polish, to try and lessen any surface tension of the liquid...and it worked really well! TDC measurements.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1125.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1132.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1133.jpg BDC measurements... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1135.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1136.jpg So, after an hour of back-and-forth topping up of the 50cc burette (12 fills required!), I had some numbers. This is with a 0.5mm base gasket installed >>> Cylinder Head = 87.70cc Cylinder Vol @ TDC-5mm = 29.00cc 5mm Drop = 37.72cc Corrected Cylinder Vol @TDC = -8.72cc Cylinder Vol @ BDC = 563.80cc Plugging those numbers into a spreadsheet.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2022.39.03.png To try and reduce the CR, I can stack the 0.5mm with one of the other thickness gaskets....some calculated rather than measured musings... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2022.44.32.png If I'm honest, I'm not sure about stacking gaskets. If we end up reducing the CR to the lowest calculation of <8.0:1, then I may see if my local waterjet cutting company would be able to cut some out of stock 1mm copper sheet. That's where I'm at, at the moment. Hoping to chat through with Chris later on, then getting on with the assembly itself.....ie., the bit that actually looks as though you've accomplished something! (contrary to the present situation...apart from turning the workshop on its head... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1134.jpg Slow but meaningful progress....and plenty of cups of tea... |
Good evening.
Quite a few bumps in the road. I am sorry to read all this. Very nice pictures from the shop. It reminds of my time in Cali, when my youngest and I visited a shop exclusively working on vintage F1's. have a picture of the kid in a vintage McLaten F1. Your Porsche will end up as quite a beast for sure. I hope to see it some day. Cheers |
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Yeah, it's not been the smoothest project, but anything worthwhile never comes easy, eh? Were you at Le Mans again this year? Still getting wrecked with the mad Weejies? I'll have the car down there for next years event...for sure...this time...honest...no really, I will... |
What deck height do you have? If you have a 1 mm deck I get a CR of 8.1 with your numbers. This is how PMNA calculates it:
1) Figure area of bore and divide by 1000 2) Measure volume of cylinder head. This is "Head CC" (A) 3) Write down final deck height 4) Drop piston enough to get dome below top of cylinder and write down the distance 5) Add item 3 to item 4 6) CC the cylinder and write down this number 7) Multiply item 5 by item 1 8) Subract item 6 from item 7. This is "Dome CC" (B) 9) Multiply item 1 by the crank stroke. This is "Swept CC" (C) 10) Multiply item 1 by item 3. This is the "Deck CC" (D) 11) Compression Ratio: C + A + D - B divided by A + D - B |
Spencer -- this will be a helluva lot simpler if I pull the spec page on the pistons and tell you the exact piston dome volume, eh?
Then you only need cylinder head volume and piston deck height. Talk tomorrow. |
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Cheers S |
Lots of room for error in cc'ing the cyl at BDC because of the number of times req'd to fill the burette, twelve in his case. Need to get the meniscus in exactly the same spot at the top and the bottom each time.
CR is just (swept volume) + (deck vol.) + (head vol) - (dome vol) / (deck vol) + (head vol) - dome vol. swept vol = bore area x stroke deck vol = bore area x deck height Dome vol is easily determined by dropping piston below the top of the cyl and measuring the distance down and then cc the cyl. Dome vol = (bore area x distance down) - cc'd volume. It would be interesting to see what the specs show vs. actual. |
Hello Spencer,SmileWavy
Memories of my calculation of CR, 7.64. To have the volume PMH of the piston more that of the breech I had tilted my engine block to have the well of spark Plug exactly upright, then I had to fill the volume by the well, simple and effective! ;) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1508860416.jpg |
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After you posted the other day, I checked, re-checked and re-hacked the formulae; tried numerous online static calculators, tried the formula you described and eventually did build the head onto the cylinder to liquid-measure the TDC+Head volume (in a very similar fashion to Pat's post above)....not once have I got a consistent, definitive answer! I also spent a decent amount of time cleaning the combustion chambers - would you believe, after 3x fills, the delta between spotless clean chambers, and as-they-were when after the last engine debacle, there was 1.4cc greater capacity; 87.7cc previously, 89.1cc now. Again, the calculations were changed to reflect this. (for completeness and transparency, when re-checking my homebrew formulae, I had errored on the deck height allowances, so thanks for pointing that out!) It should be the simplest thing, to calculate all of this, but when your head's fried and to then get different results but using the same parameters, it drives you crazy....and it needs to be correct, in order to then calculate the dynamic CR's; S-CR is a parameter for the D-CR formula. Anyway, I ran out of time before leaving for a short vacation with my daughter, so will come back to it over the weekend |
I also ordered a bar of copper stock (should arrive at home today), so that I could look at spark plug indexing. I noticed on the old pistons when stripping down the engine, that there was evidence of some electrode "kissing" on the piston tops. The marks were on the exhaust port side, i.e., the additional set of plugs that were added when the heads were being modified, 4-5yrs ago.
Looking at the protruding plug depths now that the heads are off, they are fractionally low into the combustion chambers, so....whether this was a true depth setting issue, or whether the excessive piston rock (that smashed the rings) was the cause for this, who knows, but now's the time to address that and space them up a little, and at the same time do this in a way that positions the back of the ground strap towards the inlet valve. I'll make up set of different thickness washers out of ally, just so that I can get the correct index per hole. I'll also number each plug, so that things don't inadvertently get swapped. Once I know the quantity of each, I'll make the washers out of the 20mm copper stock. Should be an easy job. |
** Reveal of significant changes to project **
Ok, so I've eluded a couple of times in previous posts, that there's a pretty significant project change in progress.
There'll soon be a thread title change to reflect that I made the decision some time ago, to change who I'm working with for the management and mapping work. Up until now, per the thread title, I've been running with MBE management with my mate Steve doing the mapping. Of course, the last couple of years have been spent rebuilding the damage that was done to the cylinders and piston rings, but in that time I think it's become clear that we have "artistic differences" (as all the best bands say) when it comes to what this engine needs to be, in order to be a well behaved and driveable *road* car. I don't think it would be fair to elaborate any further on a public forum - we've certainly not fallen-out or had arguments - and I'd like to thank Steve for the work he's done. I think I'm right in saying that being friends for almost 25 years and working on a project that he knows has cost me a huge amount of money (and blood, sweat and tears), also brings with it a pressure that perhaps isn't there with the average punter. So.....1) why the change of engine management system? 2) Was there anything wrong with the MBE management? 2)...An emphatic "no"...there's nothing wrong with MBE system. Still very popular in the UK and the bang per buck for that system is (still) very good. 1)....As has often been said in answer to questions on many fora, the best ECU is the one that your chosen calibration partner is familiar with. If I was living in the US, then without a doubt I'd go AEM with Chris (TK) and Tony working their magic. But I don't live in the US, and therefore I need to work with somebody local to me who can easily work on the car to further refine that calibration, "bum in seat". The guys working with me now on the management side are Torque Developments in Essex, and a chap called Sam Borgman. When I first met Sam, not only does he come across as extremely clever with his intimate knowledge of what the Syvecs/Life systems can do, but also a complete propellarhead outside of work, trying all this stuff out on his personal car (Subaru Impreza). He also demonstrated a very healthy level of enthusiasm about the prospect of calibrating the engine, which was nice. Being a techie (IT presales) myself, I'd like to think I have a great BS-radar, and unless I've got it completely wrong, I think I'm in very capable hands with Sam at the laptop. Now, Sam *is* capable of mapping on MBE - he's done it before - but the guidance he's given is that to program the maps in MBE takes approx 3x as long as doing the same in Life Racing / Syvecs, which is his sweet-spot. Therefore it's a false economy. For the same estimated spend on MBE calibration labour, I can buy a new, latest model Syvecs, fully loaded and enabled with functionality, more powerful in CPU terms and (from what I'm told) a more logical mapping suite for a novice (me) to learn and navigate....I did always struggle to retain my familiarity with the Easymap (MBE) suite. Another option *could* be that Sam could pick-up the existing maps already in my MBE ECU, however I know if it were me, I wouldn't want to continue with anyone elses work, for fear of there being something in the calibration that has a fatal flaw (or even just something minor in there that takes ages to find and change). Overall, I guess there's a liability angle, and so starting again would be the only option (at 3x slower pace than with Syvecs) So, I invested in a new Syvecs S6 Plus ECU some months ago; To explain further, Syvecs are a different company to Life Racing, but they have an OEM arrangement where certain Life Racing ECU models are rebadged as Syvecs but then sold with a more road-going focus. For example, the Life Racing model may have 4x pitlane speed limiter modes; completely unnecessary on a road car. Conversely, the Syvecs models are typically licensed with all features enabled, whereas Life Racing is more akin to a-la-carte licenses. Life Racing are the electronics arm of AER, who some may be familiar with in relation to Le Mans powertrains; AER provide a lot of the LMP2 class engines (amongst many other engine types, I'm sure). I guess it's similar to the setup with McLaren having their own electronics division (who supply the F1 grid with their engine management). Some other interesting functions of this change are:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W27QzJpRVD0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ig5YfIm7GoA?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jERDWEOOTp4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9XkshcddM8g?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Of course, to accommodate this change, the loom has needed some reworking. Fundamentally, the changes aren't huge to switch the connection blocks from an MBE type to the plugs which Syvecs use....but...in usual Spencer fashion, why do something easily when you can make complication into an artform? The loom is back with Simon at Sileck, and I have to say, it's pretty much a complete rebuild of both halves of the loom. Some of the changes we're making:
The Syvecs unit can also accommodate the K-Type thermocouples being input directly into the ECU, no need to now run my AEM 4-channel ADC. There you go, the full skinny on what the future plans are. It actually feels quite Cathartic to get it all typed up on the thread. Hoping the loom will be ready in the next week or so. I can then get on and sell the MBE (still the flagship model in their range) as well as the AEM thermocouple interface. |
After receiving the tech data from Chris for the Carrillo pistons I'm using, all the CR calculations now tally; my manual maths, vs 2x online static CR calculators all now give me the same ratio. Fantastic!
So, from this we can derive exactly the base gaskets setup to run, then then plug those results into the dynamic CR calculators, and get a real-world set of numbers. Next job, to re-lap the heads into the re-faced cylinder mating surfaces >> http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509495491.JPG Nice clean combustion chambers >> http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509495479.jpg ...and then stripping down of the valve gear for a thorough clean, not least of which to the backs of the valves. While I'm at it, I'm going to replace the valve stem oil seals; they're green, so likely Victor Reinz (but were supplied with the rest of the head hardware, so I can't be sure). I have a new set of black Wrightwood seals in my gasket kit, so makes sense to fit those - only a 5min job. Going to make up a mandrel to seat them safely onto the valve guides. >> http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509495491.JPG I received some stock rod material the other day for the spark plug spacer washers...only trouble is, they sent me brass instead of copper. Hopefully the copper will be here tomorrow so I can start knocking out various thickness spacers. |
What deck height and CR did you end up with?
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Hello Spencer !
It's understandable that Chris does not want to give this information although I am also curious to know your CR! :D |
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Since your engine turns as a clock, it is all that I ask for for you, and too bad for the CR! :D Good night Spencer ! ;) |
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It is maybe because of my translator, when I formulate a message that writes anything... In brief, I understood what you wrote! :D
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Weekend update....
Well, the weekend got off to an inauspicious start. I received my new valve stem oil seal removal pliers on Friday, and being a little too eager, I went to try them out, assuming that the new Wrightwood ones I have in my gasket kit were going to be the ones replacing the unknown items. After trying (unsuccessfully) to remove the first one, I then remembered to check the fit of the new ones. And they didn't - stock valves have (nominal) 9mm stems, my Schrick valves are a nominal 8mm. And I've now buggered the one I tried to remove. After much swearing, it's actually proven to be one of those fortuitous situations....it's made me examine a little close the original seals that were "installed" by the idiots that did my headwork many years ago....there are a number of seals that are damaged, the metal sleeve being squashed on one side where the install tool (probably a socket, knowing them) has been hit off-centre. I've also noticed that some of the seal tops are also oval, only slightly, but oval nonetheless. A call into Porsche Tonbridge on Saturday morning, and I've got a complete set of 12x 993 seals on their way (which are 8mm) - hopefully they'll be here in a couple or 3 days time. So, other than ordering parts, I didnt get much done yesterday - a very long week for our financial quarter-end meant a couple of days working through the night on Thursday and Friday. Light duties, just decided to have a start with indexing the spark plugs and making the copper spacers. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509925589.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509925589.JPG Time to get the protractor out and see how much indexing is required to place the spark plug ground strap in the direction of the intake valve. There's a good level of consistency with these Denso plugs, generally needing either a 0.6mm or 1.1mm spacer (depending on whether its the top or bottom plug) Todays jobs, however, were many and successful. First job for the day was to clean the valves. I left them soaking overnight in Swarfega Jizer (which I have to say, is pretty good for parts washer use. About as good as I've used apart from the proper solvents that you can only get on a commercial contract basis). To be honest, I dont think the soak did anything to soften the baked on muck. Before and after, below....the inlets being far worse than the exhaust. 3M Scotchbrite didn't touch it. In the end I carefully used a razorblade scraper, which brought it off great, it almost chipped off. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509926204.JPG Next job was one I've been meaning to do for AGES...clean the damn RH timing box housing that I've been moving around the workshop for months! Completely unremarkable (you're thinking) BUT...in doing so - ***top tip*** Swarfega Jizer is brilliant at softening Curil-T. Brake cleaner and paraffin that I've tried so far, just don't touch it. There you go, don't say I don't give you anything. And then I needed to take a few brave-pills for. Time to un-shroud the secondary spark plugs in the combustion chambers. I confess it's not something that even occurred to me on the first build, but remember seeing that Chris mentioned to Costa on his excellent build thread, that its a good thing to do. So, time to get to it, can't delay it any longer.... As they were before... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509926918.JPG Some marking out - 15mm sockets can be so useful sometimes....all marked the same with a 22mm measurement from the back of the spark plug hole to the front of the blue line... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509926918.JPG Then after some die grinder action, then grit paper and finally some Scotchbrite to finish... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509926918.JPG ...and all finished. I have to say, I'm very pleased and extremely relieved - no mishaps, just took my time, used an airflow limited on the pneumatic line to slow the bit down, and carefully removed the material. I reckon a could've been a dentist! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1337.jpg Last job of the day was to re-lap the valves to the valve seats, Probably unnecessary, but seeing as a lot of cleaning has been done to remove a lot of carbon deposit, I thought it well worthwhile for the sake of another couple of hours. Next job tomorrow will be to re-do the capacity measurements of the heads, because of course the volume will increase, changing the CR calculations. After that, time to give everything a final wash before re-assembly, once the new valve seals arrive midweek. |
Very good job Spencer ! ;-)
I am maybe "a little bit obsessive", but it seems to me to perceive a difference of manufacturing got out of it from candle between both last ones veered astern of your photo, the exit left-hand side. It is very well made all the same, but I hope that this difference of manufacturing will not change your CR on a breech with regard to(compared with) the others. Pat |
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Yes, it is very possible whether it is the viewing angle(viewpoint) which gives the impression that the exit(release) of the hole of candle is not identical. If you made them all exactly in the same way, with the same angle and in the same depth, any concerns(marigolds)! :) |
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I've been out in the workshop this evening doing more lapping in of the cylinders to the heads (wasn't entirely satisfied that they were as good as they could be last week). You were right, and something I've never noticed - the factory spark plug castings *are* different on one of the heads! The shape on 5 of the heads.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510096086.jpg The shape on the other head. Clearly it's come from factory like that, as it's the raw casting surface finish.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510096126.jpg Now interestingly, 5 of the heads have an identifier of "6" under the intake valve...(excuse the dirty grime - lapping paste that I only wiped off - full cleaning in the tank tomorrow) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510096418.jpg And the odd one has an identifier of "4" and also has less well defined Porsche part number on the left of the photo.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510096479.jpg No idea what's happened in the cars life for this to be the case - no point worrying about it, can't change anything other than buying a set of CNC machined heads. Does anyone know how to stop the photo uploader service from rotating the pics 90º??I'm using the Pelican photo uploader now, rather than Photobucket (after their ludicrous $400/yr subscription in order to link photos...idiots...) |
Good evening Spencer,
Yes, it is strange to see that, because normally breeches must be identical to have a well-balanced CR. It is not very reassuring at first sight, but now you have maybe way(means) to improve the balance of the volume of breeches, there are no modifications to be made. Not grave for the dirt, I know what what know how to work on an engine. :) |
One of my veered astern before the reassembly of my engine. :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510176113.jpg |
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