That T30 connector turned out to be quite fiddly; lot of heat needed to get clean solders, and care needed to get the cable lengths absolutely spot-on. Too short and it's time to re-do the whole loom, too long and there's insufficient space to accommodate all 14 wires and close the lid.

Anyway, engine wiring loom is now finished apart from the boost pressure sensor (for the cockpit gauge), which I'm leaving until I receive the intercooler, then decide where to mount the sender.

Next job was to clean the exhaust headers ready to dummy fit the new turbo. Jesus, this new unit is a big beast!....compare/contrast--->

Old one, temporarily bolted on for positioning:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/173ebcd5.jpg

New one, albeit on the unmodified headers. The flange needs changing for the new twin-scroll divided input flange from TurboKraft, as do the secondaries that will feed it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/afd2c1df.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/4851c052.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/003c3d42.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/95b11557.jpg

Fortunately, I managed to retrieve the rear engine tinware before the powder coating company re-coated it. This is a new item but was only painted in the same black "primer" that new bodywork panels come with; not up to the task of protecting the tin long-term. The piece had been incinerated it to remove the base paint but it was left outside until ready for grit blasting/coating (hence it looks knackered). I'm sure it'll come good once blasted and coated.

Some fettling's needed to accommodate the boost outlet up to the I/C, in addition to the silicon 90deg hose from the intake to the compressor inlet. Was messing about this evening whilst having half an eye on the Olympics (Team GB's womens volleyballers doing very well, I might add ;):D ). To begin with I trimmed the old rotted tinware that thankfully I kept. Chopped it enough to be able to bolt it in place and clear the compressor outlet, then made up a cardboard template. Once welded in place, this will then tighten up the gap around the turbo>I/C outlet, which is about 30mm over to the right versus the old K27.

I need to also think about fabricating a mount for the turbo to support it from the engine.

A few pics of last nights tinkering. Using the very old piece of rotted tinware I'd kept for a rainy day, I chopped out a small section that interfered with the compressor outlet.

Here, you can see where the GT35's outlet sits relative to where the old K27 came up through the metal:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/05a0dcbf.jpg

Then a cardboard template which I'll make in some 20SWG steel, and weld in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/db4d3162.jpg

Will also make a rear section to help enclose the gap to the chain cover.

Just in the process of checking with Chris @ TK to make sure that the "stock" location of the T3 flange, and thus the turbo position, is correct for the imminent TurboKraft intercooler. I'll then start modifying the new tinware and make that fillet.

Got the tinware back from the powder coating shop the other day, another couple of jobs have now been completed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74B7B5FDA2.jpg

Fit tinware to the back of #3 cylinder, behind the auxiliary oil pump /air pump housing. This needed to be modified quite a bit to allow access to the second #3 spark plug in the lower valve cover. Also needed a slot cutting to allow the cylinder head temp sender assy to protrude:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74D379723A.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70E1622D98.jpg

The crank position sender is also now in place, picking up off the new 60-2 tooth 964RS flywheel:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70DBEC9BF0.jpg

Aux oil pump drive - heavily modified - is also now back in place. As you can see, have fabricated some closing holes to block off where the air pump drive belt used to run through:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7550B98EF1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...751C98B8F4.jpg

The pulley isn't driving anything, so spun it up in the lathe to just retain the centre....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74FC5F2494.jpg

...into which I'm made a cam position pick-up for the hall effect sensor (the mounting boss for which is also now welded onto the pump housing):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2A1C106E-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70C31B7110.jpg

Edges of the "bolt" radiused to allow a 1mm clearance to the hall effect, without it fouling when rotating:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70AA20EBCA.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70CF7F3896.jpg

And then the oil pump unit itself refitted. Rigid line in place simply because I haven't got around to removing it yet; will probably run a single PTFE/banjo line to the turbo drip tank:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...70EB798534.jpg

Friday evening was spent mocking-up the exhaust system, a Hayward & Scott system, in readiness for a trip up to H&S to deliver the system for modification.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7A1FCA1C87.jpg

The silencer needs to retain a cat converter (I have to retain one under UK law, for a 1993 registered car). Thankfully I established from H&S yesterday that it's a pukka 100 cell unit, so pretty unrestrictive.

The finalised shopping list of modifications that H&S are going to be doing for me:

1) Remove old T3 flange, replacing with the new item from TurboKraft with a stronger centre wall for the twin-scroll feed.

2) Remove the siamesed secondary feeds into the old T3 flange. These had the wastegate swan-neck feed also siamesed (see previous pics in above post)

3) Replace above with completely isolated secondaries, again, for twin-scroll feeds into the GT35R.

4) Weld in 2 x bosses for the new Lambda sensors

5) Weld the turbine outlet quick release coupling flange onto the silencer inlet - this will arrive from TK shortly.

6) Polish the silencer and tailpipes :lol:

In addition, supply 2 x 90deg 1.5" bends that will install into each Tial wastegate; I can then take modified system back home and do another mock-up, to position each w/g somewhere where it won't foul anything....it's very tight around this area, so do not want to guess this position for the sake of saving one return trip up to Essex. (I'm retaining heat exchangers, plus the silencer is about 2x the depth of a non-cat unit).

I also need to accommodate another 2 x EGT sensors for the MBE management, one per secondary.

When removing the system from the car, I hadn't noticed (or had forgotten) that the joint between the two halves of the system are already double slip jointed - good news, no need for this to be modified.

The lads up at Hayward & Scott seem to be very helpful and "can-do"; hopefully only a week or so until this is back with me for another mock-up

...they had a lovely couple of cars up there, a Cobra and a genuine continuation model Superformance Shelby Cobra Coupe.....VERY nice.

Yesterday's job - whilst we've got some cracking summer weather - was to get onto the car and remove the oil system for cleaning.

First job was removal of the sill covers (rocker panels?) and the shark-fin. Easy enough, they were off last year for tidying up and fitting of new clear vinyl.

Onto the connections for the thermostat. What an utter b***h of a job. Two of the threaded fittings came off ok, but sods law, the back fitting for the oil line> cooling rad is proving very stubborn. It's all cleaned up but still no joy; left it to soak with penetrating fluid while I got on with disconnecting the oil tank. No problems here so far, just need to work out a way to gently prise out the oil level sender wire from the retaining channel....I think I may end up removing the thermo with the oil line, once disconnected from the cooler, then sling it in a vice to undo that line.

Am seriously debating - whilst the oil system is empty - whether to install a second oil cooler into the LHS of the car. I have A/C fitted (and it's staying) so need to take the bumper off and see what room I have to accommodate one.....a few good threads here on Pelican to use for planning. If I do, then am also debating whether to run completely new Aeroquip lines to the back of the car, in which case I'll make them long enough to go the second cooler. If not (and it seems a shame not to retain the original metal lines, they're immaculate, no corrosion or crushing), then I'll just get new hoses crimped onto the ends.

Thats tomorrows job, more updates when I know more.

Quite a productive Bank Holiday weekend....finally got good weather coinciding with a spare weekend, where I could get the chassis up on axle stands and start prepping it ready for engine re-installation.

Eventually managed to get that (almost) welded on oil coupling undone, but only by first removing the front bumper, RHS wheel arch liners, etc, and then removing the oil cooler rad + oil lines, as one assembly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...179685ED85.jpg

Empty void once removed...looking forward to a full clean-up of the suspension (and replacement of the dampers)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...17A1CDF2F6.jpg

Not too much detritus had found it's way in, thankfully....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...17CF41487F.jpg

Still managed to replicate the Amoco Cadiz on my driveway despite trying to be careful not to spew oil everywhere. Anyway, rad disconnected, and with my Dad's perfectly timed arrival, we got the thermostat into a bench vice while he held onto the long line, and we cracked it undone. Thanks Dad!

Oil cooler rad assembly is now broken down into all it's parts and cleaned. The cooler itself has been cleaned externally, now ready for either ultrasonic cleaning (if I can find somebody who does this) or thorough cleaning in a tank. The fan looks like new again. The metal blocking plate I may get powder coated with yet another batch of items that need doing.

Both oil feed lines are dangling from my garage ceiling over a drain tank. I'll get new flexi lines swaged onto the rigid parts in due course.

Thermostat about to be opened up and cleaned/tested...if anyone knows off the top of their heads the opening temp for a 1992 spec thermostat unit, please post so I can check it in a pan of heated water....IIRC the opening temp did change with later units?

Have been debating whether or not to install a secondary cooler, but feedback so far would indicate that for a road car, no track work, and in the milder climes of the UK, shouldn't require it. Fine, I'm all for a simple and cheaper life.

eThrottle Body....
 

Another job that I thought was going to be a simple bolt-on procedure, was fitting the new eThrottle body onto the Carrera intake.

This unit is off a 997 C2, where a recessed groove in the intake system houses an O-ring, which then seals to the eThrottle body. Of course the Carrera intake I'm using doesn't have this, so time to eBay for a vendor of gasket material. Two days later, I had a set of leather hole punches and sheet of A4 0.8mm non-asbestos fibrous material, another sheet of 1mm and an A4 sheet of 1.5mm silicon, like the re-usable valve cover gaskets available from our Host (which I'm also using)...even the colour matches.

Some careful transposing of the body outline onto paper served as my template for the silicon (decided to go with this so I can remove/refit the intake assy, without fear of future air leaks):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1822CEA43B.jpg

...however, something I hadn't got around to checking was the ID of the eThrottle versus the ID of the intake:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...18194610E7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...182B79B234.jpg

Okay, so time to remove the intake....again (!!), buy some die grinder rasps and get grinding.

Anyway, this is what it'll look like when mounted:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...180F0FAEDD.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...18019DD884.jpg

Cleaning of the oil system
 

Tonights job, after contacting a fairly local company that reconditions radiators, is to strip down the cooler in readiness to take it up there for a thorough clean, pressure test and paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...568F122F84.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...569513BC63.jpg

I spent some time removing the hardware; those spire clips with a stud attached, the temp sensor, the original threaded fittings, mounting rubbers. All ready to go.

Next job was to strip down the oil thermostat. I did need to drill and tap a hole in the front plate and use a slide hammer to remove it. No big deal, will turn up a new one next time I'm at a lathe.

All the component parts:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...567B99B8F0.jpg

...and the empty thermostat housing:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...568978D90A.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5684607301.jpg

Have also spoken to Think Automotive, my hosing/fitting supplier in London. Very helpful bunch. I think the way forward will be to cut off the swaged flexi hoses & metric fittings from the rigid oil lines, and braze on some AN fittings, then use regular -AN fittings on the hoses and onto the oil cooler. I'll probably do the same at the other end, to couple it to the thermostat.

The alternative is to not touch the original rigid lines with flexi hoses, and replace the whole lot with single lengths of Aeroquip hosing, but this'll probably be extremely expensive, and may even present a problem with getting the radius tight enough where they exit the sill covers...sorry, rocker panels ;):p ....and go up and over the wheel liner. They may even be too fat to go behind the rocker panel...hmm.

Anyway, off to borrow a cooking thermostat (probably from Mum) and boil some water and test the thermostat insert.

Just round the corner from think/mocal is a branch of Pirtek with a trade counter, I found they often had fittings that think didn't, you could imagine that some of that heavy hydraulic gear must be german and therefore metric fittings (assuming that's the sticking point). They've also swaged lines for me in the past cheaper than think. Was a few years back I last used them but still worth a try?

Hi Alex, ah, I never knew that, thanks!

I was drawing out a diagram with the plumbing I need to get. It's not cheap, especially when looking at -16 fittings. Maybe I'm over thinking this, and just keeping it simple is the best way forward.

What is the butterfly diameter of the 997 throttle body?
Thanks for sharing.

No probs.....The throttle body is 73.9mm diameter.

Ta
S

Porting of the intake manifold plenum...
 

Have been doing this on-and-off over the weekend, finishing it this evening. Chuffed with how my first porting job has come out!

I borrowed a brand new set of Blue Point die grinder burrs from my mate next door....tip to those who haven't done this before (like me), the generic carbide burrs are great...but...not ideal for aluminium; there are dedicated burrs you can apparently get, with far fewer teeth. I have to say, I reckon these would be extremely aggressive for the first time user, spinning at about 20k rpm.

To prevent the "standard" burrs from clogging, I found a great tip. Coat the clean burr with Nickel NeverSeez paste, the stuff that Porsche likes to use, a bit like Copperslip but about 10x the price. Thankfully I had some, and it works beautifully. Very little clogging, and even when it did need cleaning, the ally just came off with a wire brush.

Previously, the burrs were clogging in seconds, and taking 5-10 minutes to pick off the welded on swarf.

Anyway, here's what I've managed to do:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C34B2F546D.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF304B3485.jpg

Then, when the eThrottle body is fitted on top....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BF484C74CE.jpg

No steps in the airstream now! There's a little bit of wiggle-room afforded with the 4x M6 caphead bolts, allowing precise alignment.

Because of the shape of this part of the intake system, you can't remove too much material from the top and the bottom sections, you'd simply break through the casting wall. It starts off at about 4.5mm thick, I'm down to about 2.5-3mm at the thinnest section, but more importantly, have removed any sharp steps in this area, it's all nicely blended, top, bottom and to each side as the air enters each half of the manifold.

Once it's blown through and washed thoroughly, that'll be another job done.

Intercooler update....
 

Chris very kindly sent me some pictures of my new intercooler, just before he packaged it up ready for shipping to Blighty.

I have to say, if it looks half as good as the pictures - and they're not rigged studio shots - then I'm going to be very pleased.

This is one of TurboKrafts full bay intercoolers, with all the quick release couplings that were used on Toms "Odyssey" project, with some custom mounts that'll bolt directly onto my Carrera intake manifold ;)

After a little contemplation, I decided to go for a black anodized finish....a bit of a "nod" to the stock I/C. GCSE physics says that when in a direct heat source, black will of course absorb that heat quicker than a reflective material....but when not exposed to a radiating heat source, then apparently (according to some of the salt flat racers) black actually dissipates heat better than a reflective material. I'm guessing this could well be the source of a holy-war, but more than anything else, I like black, and it's what Porsche used.

Although the polished "au natural" unit looks great, it wouldn't be in-keeping with anything on my engine or in the 'bay. Unfinished aluminium would also start to corrode pretty quickly, especially in the damp winter UK climate. I did see some pics of a matt black anodized finish that one of Chris's clients specifically requested. Looks very urban/military, but not really what I was after.

What I finally went for was a fairly gloss black....think of really nice cycling components (eg Thomson seat post/handlebar stem), or the sort of finish on the Tial wastegates.

I believe Chris did a few test pieces of ally using differing levels of abrasion, and then working with his plating shop to get exactly the finish he thought I was after.

It's taken a fair amount of time to get the I/C, but when you consider that these are made in batches, and are REALLY nice...CNC machined end tanks and necks, and then all welded up, plus the playing around getting the right surface finish, then getting it anodized, it's little wonder.

.....and you're just gonna have to wait for the pics I'm afraid! :D

(they're not my photos, and am just waiting for Chris to give me the nod ;) )

Intercooler Pics
 

Heard back from Chris the other day re the pics - unfortunately the PhotoBucket site has been having problems for 3-4days, so unable to upload or post anything.

Anyway, here it is --->

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7619.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7622.jpg

Above you can see in the background the mounting brackets that will bolt directly onto the Carrera intake manifold that I'm running. The back of the I/C will then locate using lugs into those holes on the towers, then be held in place using a bolt at the front. Intake and outlets are both QR "Wiggins" style clamps....all to make this as serviceable as possible. Really nicely thought out by Chris and the TK team.

And some close-ups of the end tank, showing the CNC machining detail:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7623.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7625.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/IMG_7626.jpg

Long story short, as co-incidence would have it, I'm going to be in NYC in a few weeks time....our natural mistrust of couriers, plus time kicking around UK Customs if they decide to hold it back, not to mention the massive shipping bill (which then attracts more import duty/VAT, as it gets added to the value of the I/C), means that Chris and I are formulating a plan to get it from AZ to NY and then for me to hand-carry it back to the UK as hand-luggage!!!....very "oh-Jesus-Hamilton's-just-stuffed-it-get-the-receptionist-on-a-flight-over-here-ASAP-with-new-parts" F1.

Have now received the oil cooler radiator back from Regal Rads...a fine job cleaning it up, pressure testing it, cleaning it and another pressure check, then painting:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95186BCD33.jpg

Just got to decide how I want to plumb it all back in again now.

Another job sorted this evening, removal of the oil tank from the RHS rear wing. It put up a bit of a fight, and after removing the wing support strut, was more than a little wary how flexible the bodywork was!

Not managed to get the dipstick tube undone yet, but the tank can certainly do with a fresh powder coating:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...950D30FBE5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...94F88F38B6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...95044CFA26.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...94FEE2655A.jpg

Will flush it out tomorrow...have the whole weekend to tinker ;)

Strange occurrence today on the way home from work; popped into SBD and saw a water radiator from one of their single seater race-cars. A custom made unit with a divided top tank and as luck would have it, very similar size to the oil cooler and AC condensor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CD34FA23E0.jpg

Plenty of spare low-side drives from the ECU, and Steve happened to have in stock a tiny Bosch water pump (shown next to a wheel nut to give an idea of scale):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CD3C25E41B.jpg

These items together have proved very successful in keeping cool a 320hp supercharged Suzuki Hayabusa engine in their single seater, and the same pump is being used by other customers of Steves running very highly tuned N/A Duratec rally cars, so looks like a very nice pump. I believe VAG use them...in fact it's probably these pumps that I have two of, on my Mk6 Golf GTD.

For the cost of buying this (not a lot, for once!), I'm up for playing around and using this to water cool the GT35R. I know that TK are running them without water cooling...and that oil cooling through the chamber is NOT the way to go...but also conscious that if it all goes wrong, Garretts first warranty question will be whether I've cooled the unit adequately ( see the other thread that's running along with Garretts response )....plus a cooler turbo must equal more hp, no?

A bit like I decided to run the eThrottle fly-by-wire system, I quite fancy going for this...I'm certainly not the first person to run it, but it is less common on these sort of projects....it's all about the tinkering. ;) :D ....and if a 962 can run water for cooling on an aircooled motor, then so can I!! (yes, I know it's totally different, I'm being flippant)

The plan, if it'll fit without too much fabrication, is to install it alongside either the oil cooler or AC condenser, then run some small diameter rigid lines next to either the AC or the oil lines behind the sill covers. The pump isn't fussy where it goes, so if there's room I'll probably spare it from the heat of the engine bay and mount up front. I'll probably also then plumb-in the wastegates, seeing as they're going to be wedged very close to the turbo and the exhaust primaries with no airflow over them; may as well, it's very easy to do at that point. All I then need to do is either make or source a header tank...perhaps mounted in the luggage trunk.

I don't think I ever will get this project finished at this rate!

Hmm, not a particularly productive weekend. Again.

Collected the headers from the first phase of modification; the aim here was to get the new divided T3 flange welded in, remove the siamesed secondaries, and also the elephant trunk WG feed. Also to fit the 2 x Lamda bosses, and supply me with some pipes to play with for locating the WG's. Once these were positioned, I'd run the system back up there for welding the WG feeds, as well as the WG outlet pipes to the quick release collars.

Phase 3 will be to cut off the old 4 stud flange on the silencer input, once I'm back from the US.

The guys have done a great job of polishing the silencer/tailpipes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...83F61C0BD7.jpg

Here's the headers quickly bolted back on the engine plus GT35R...they deliberately haven't cleaned them up just yet, but still, they look good with the individual feeds into the T3:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7FA2E49572.jpg

And now the not so good news...the Lamda boss for 1-3 bank is in slightly the wrong place, indexed wrongly by about 30degs, meaning there's not enough clearance to get the probe in there without fouling the compressor housing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7FA7AF8200.jpg

Arse.