![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 951
|
Thanks KTL.
__________________
"Simplicity is supreme excellence" - James Watt |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: PaloAlto Calif, IndianWells PalmDesert, Japan
Posts: 299
|
You sound as thou it is time anyways for a nice overhaul, at the very least and since you are going in, you might as well take your time and think about improvements. At the very least if you decide not to go for anyting performance oriented, focus on merely items that improve the durability of your engine.
__________________
Taze em..TAZE EM ALL!! A man that builds a thousend bridges is a bridge builder, but a man that sucks one ( blank ) is a ( blank ) sucker. It looks like the 4th of July from my rear view, how about from your view? |
||
![]() |
|
Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
|
I guess my point was that if one wanted to, one could get away with cracking open the case for fairly cheap. At a bare minimum you would need:
No need to replace chains and case ramps if they, and the sprocket wheels, look in good condition. If your engine has been driven fairly tame over it's life, the rod bearings might be in useable condition. However once you've removed the rods, it's good insurance to replace these since they're the most abused bearing in the engine. They're only $110 for the full set and that's good peace of mind IMO. You can reuse the main bearings and #8 nose bearing if they are still in reasonably good condition, which more often than not they usually are in good shape on a street engine. That saves almost $450 right there. Done. Clean everything up, assemble crank & rods, layshaft + chains + oil pump and close it up with your $20 tube of Loctite 574 that you needed anyway to do the top end, to seal the cam towers to heads. You can split the case with minimal disturbance to your pistons (rings) & cylinders by leaving the piston inside the cylinder as you remove the piston pin from the rod. Doing so assures your rings remain where they've recently been residing in the piston & cylinder and no need to buy a new ring set. However, leaving them in place doesn't let you check your ring end gaps or ring land clearance........ It's REALLY easy to get caught up in the while-you're-in-there mindset. But sometimes you can use your judgment on what may still be in serviceable condition. Leakdown and compression testing is a wise thing to do before disassembly, because it gives you an indication of some of the engine's health. This can save yourself some substantial money by avoiding replacement of parts just as a matter of course, and not compromise the reliability of your engine. These engines are quite expensive to repair but they're also very durable. So not everything needs to be junked and refreshed with new, just because you are working inside the engine. My two cents........
__________________
Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Haarlem area, Netherlands
Posts: 212
|
DO IT.
I had mine taken apart due to oil comsumption (valve guides and piston rings) after 140 k miles. Engine as such was running great. But the cranckshaft bearings were really done ... see below. I heared from many specialists that at 100-120k miles this is not unusual. I would invest the extra bucks now really. ![]()
__________________
Better a good one for a lot of bucks, than a bad one for little |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
And she's split! No evidence of mistreatment inside the engine. I wish I could say the same for the interior and body, but that's another thread... Thanks again for the encouragement, I'm glad I went all the way.
No performance mods on this one, as my plan for this car is to give it to my daughter in a couple of years. So after careful inspection the repair list is: IMS bearings Replace every seal/gasket (it was leaking BAD) Chain ramps Valve guides/seals Valve job Bottom head studs (steel) I have lots of pics I will post up in another thread when I'm done for the benefit of other rookies. I didn't realize how much glare there was in this pic til now, but here she is in all her glory. ![]()
__________________
87 930 - Black - 3.4L/964 cams/K29/Powerhaus IC/6AL-2/B&B dual exhaust/MTX-L/235-315 Toyo R888/18" Kinesis wheels/Big Red brakes/LSD 10 997.2 Cab - Speed Yellow 83 SC Cab - Guards Red [SOLD] 17 NSX - Nouvelle Blue |
||
![]() |
|