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It's a trap...
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I have my rods sitting on the bench ready to take to the shop. I didn't number them in the engine.
![]() Piston Throw 3------- 1 6------- 2 2------- 3 5------- 4 1------- 5 4------- 6 Thanks in advance.
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Run like the wind, straining the limits of machine and man.... 2006 Atlas Gray Carrera 4, '81 911SC Black on Tan (SOLD), 2006 Acura RSX Type S, '13 Dodge Durango (wifeys). |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Fla
Posts: 1,864
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rod position
From the FW end of the crank the rods are 3,6,2,5,1,4
Mike Bruns
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The two most useless things to a driver are the braking distance behind you and nine-tenths of a second ago. |
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It's a trap...
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Thank you.
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Run like the wind, straining the limits of machine and man.... 2006 Atlas Gray Carrera 4, '81 911SC Black on Tan (SOLD), 2006 Acura RSX Type S, '13 Dodge Durango (wifeys). |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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If you're taking the rods to the shop to have them reconditioned, then it doesn't matter where they came from. The shop should resize them all to like new bore and end-end length specs and that allows you to install them on any crank location you wish. When they balance them, ask them for the weights so you can choose where you want to put them on the crank.
If you're just having them checked for dimensional correctness and crack checked, and they come back good with no machine work done on them, you can still take advantage of the measuring they do. You can juggle your rod big end bore measurements with your crank journal measurements and be selective about your choice of location that way. Meaning, a larger journal would like a larger big end bore and vice versa. Obviously you've only got so much room to play with when dealing with used components that have a semblance of wear on them, and we're talking about thousandths of inches here. But as long as you're being selective about where you put your rods, you should use the dimensions/clearances as your guide. I think the clearances as more critical than the rod weights. Rod weights should already be within allowable weight spread if they're all from the same weight group.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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It's a trap...
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Should the shop have the pistons, rod pins marked with the weights?
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Run like the wind, straining the limits of machine and man.... 2006 Atlas Gray Carrera 4, '81 911SC Black on Tan (SOLD), 2006 Acura RSX Type S, '13 Dodge Durango (wifeys). |
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It's a trap...
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Should the shop have the pistons, rods, pins marked with the weights?
__________________
Run like the wind, straining the limits of machine and man.... 2006 Atlas Gray Carrera 4, '81 911SC Black on Tan (SOLD), 2006 Acura RSX Type S, '13 Dodge Durango (wifeys). |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Well I don't think it's information the shop will give you a summary of, unless you ask to have it documented. Lucky for me a friend let me borrow his digital scale that he bought for measuring his engine components.
I'll admit I also have a scale I bought from IKEA. It's a digital baking scale that measures up to 6 lbs 9 oz. So it's pretty sensitive and is good enough for a backyard mechanic/racer like me. Here's what I did with "new" stuff- new JE 98mm 10.5 C/R pistons and pins with used, reconditioned Pauter rods & new ARP rod screws. I weighed all my pistons, pins, and rods. Since everything is like new and has not worn-in as matched pairs, I was able to mix & match everything. I was able to come up with a total weight for each assembly that varies from 1184.8 to 1185.6 grams. Less than one gram weight spread is good enough for me! Piston weight spread was 482.3 to 483.1 grams Pin weight spread was 108.5 (only one meas'd this) to 109.4 grams Rod weight (with bolts, w/out bearings) spread was 592.7 to 594.0 grams
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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