I did spin each one to a fresh surface.

The colors are both high heat engine enamel the darker one is supposed to be "Iron Gray" IIRC but I agree it has a slight bronze tinge to it. I'm pretty happy with the results, I wanted something slightly different from the standard red/black.

Just a few small loose ends left to tie up and she's ready to slip back in and see if all this was worth it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361147742.jpg

I'm not saying I did this.....but I'm not saying I didn't...... Anyone have any suggestions how to repair or replace this section of return fuel line. There is a junction piece about 6" further back, can I get another and make another junction?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361147989.jpg

I had a bunch of FI issues when I tore this down (hard starting, idle problems, leaking fuel distributor, plugged up WUR and I found that my airbox had a huge break above the intake runner ports). I bought a freshened/rebuilt set of almost all of the CIS components a while back. Clean airbox has a fresh meter plate & FD mounted to it. I have a presumably tested/rebuilt WUR mounted.

I've run a weed eater line down my fuel return line (thought it may have been plugged by pressure test #'s I was getting) and I can blow through it (not easily, but steadily) now.

Lastly the connectors for my return line & WUR were frozen solid (a week of PB soaking did nothing) I gave up and cut the return line (see above) and the wur line I got off but I feel like I should replace it as the connection at the wur spins on the press into the nylon line (has for a while, didn't leak but I fear it's a time bomb and the [old] wur also wouldn't flow anything so?

So, I'm crossing my fingers I'm fixing some issues and not just creating new ones, hope to find out next weekend or so.

Travis, call Larry or run by his place in Fairhope. He is a coline distributor & has that polyamine line.
Howard
P.S. take your broken piece with you.

Fuel Line resolutions
 

Thanks to Howard's tip I've now got a nice new line from my fuel pump to fuel filter (replacing the 1/4" standard FLAPS fuel line that I ignorantly put there the first week I brought her home), a new WUR line & a third line for return fuel. Not only this but a little insight as to how to reroute a couple of things to make my hybrid setup work a bit better.

Now the kick in the nutz
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361744764.jpg
,
What you see here is my engine off the stand and one of 3 final tiny tasks before this bad boy can go back in. I proceed to torque down the flywheel bolts starting at 15lb as suggested in "101 projects", progressing to 30lbs....at 45lbs the first bolt doesn't seem to get to torque value [is it pulling threads?]......go across to another bolt, it breaks...Mother $&%#@*!!!! Just for humorous defecate lets try one more across, that one snaps too.

WTF?

I read that my 78 engine/flywheel should be torqued to 66lbs, is this not right? I feel like my flywheel is a bit questionable as I believe it's been tapped for new holes before, I didn't have it resurfaced. I wasn't having clutch slippage or trouble when I last drove it but I did order a brand new disc as the one I took out looked about finished.

So, new flywheel or less invasive fix folks?

Those are the clutch bolts. They only torque to 25NM which is 18 ft/lbs. The flywheel to crankshaft torques to 90 nm or 66 ft/lbs.

Dammit, so I just toasted my flywheel? Safe to take it and have it redrilled or better to replace it?

sent from my Galaxy S III

Did the clutch bolt break or strip ???

Yeah, one stripped, 2 more broke, obviously I should have stopped half an hour before I did today.

Just reread that page I was looking at, and yes it was referring to flywheel, not the pressure plate....stupid stupid stupid

sent from my Galaxy S III

Not a good day....
Sorry to see that happen to you.
Oh well, nothing that can't be fixed or replaced... :)

As seems regularly to be the case lately Howard was right, the flywheel was fine I just murdered a few bolts. A new set of them[torqued to the real value], a proper clutch holding tool (the VW 1600 one seemed ok but I didn't need any new headaches over $8), oil cooler & crossover pipe mounted and the morning was off to a roaring start.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264286.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264338.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264367.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362264429.jpg

I need to look into my gas tank as I found a bunch of crud as far as the banjo coming out of the fuel pump (FI is mostly new). Need to go get 10qt. of oil and double check a couple of elec. connections.

My engine bay has made a quantum leap forward in appearance, but I refuse to pat myself on the back until it runs as well as it looks.

With a little luck we see if my beautiful beast runs again tomorrow :D

Yea !!!! Replace that hood shock,vise grips are cause for rejection around here. That means you get your head banged when working on the engine without the porsche special tool. A sawed off broom stick.
Howard

P.S. whats that in the Garage, A E92 BMW???

Well I have a trusty putter that usually holds the lid up but you are right I really aught to address that. I think I need to add one to the right side to accomodate my whale tail and the front ones are weak too (just more to the project list)

[Correction, knew I was off a mark] that's the better half's E93 (its a convertible) we are an all German household :D

Your pop off valve looks to be oriented incorrectly. Everything I have read on installaion says to have the hinge facing the bumper. Otherwise looking good! :)

oops, hopefully it's ok since it's in there really well now :)

I am so close my motivation is in high gear, so I braved the 29° this morning and got to work. I knew I had crap coming from my gas tank and needed to deal with it before I clogged up all the fresh stuff in the back.

I drained the fuel that was left (thought I'd run it to almost empty last summer but I know I pulled out 7 gallons) and then admit to thinking, hey, I could just put in a few gallons of fresh premium and see if this baby goes.......but ultimately decided I've put too much hard work into this to screw it up now.

Well there's certainly a lot of gunk inside the tank, and now I need to figure out what to do about it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362327424.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362327448.jpg

I took a rag and made clean streaks inside, but there is a lot of crud in there. From the outside I have a lot of surface rust around the bottom (under where there was foam weather seal, was that stock?) It's obviously been repaired for something at some point?!

So, do I take this to a radiator shop or do I need a new one or is there something I can do on my own to clean inside and will Por-15 fix the outside?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/661056-cleaning-fuel-tank-without-damaging-plastic-swirl-pot.html
Here's one for ya... I'm hoping your tank is better looking inside! :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418598-fuel-tank-restoration-many-pictures.html

Do the radiator shop thing and they ll seal it inside along with cleaning it up, they got the hot tank
Bruce

Thanks for the links, I'd been reading those earlier today.

I took my filter out and found this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362350910.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362350930.jpg

The 2nd picture doesn't properly show how much rust flakes and crud I found just inside the swirl pot. And further inspection of the outside has me really questioning just how much metal is left in several areas.

It may or may not have been "best" but I've gone ahead and ordered a new tank from our host, will have to take my chances with the fitment reviews and see what happens.

I think you're taking the smart road. Your tank could look just like the one in the second link I posted inside. I'm sure you'll be able to make the new tank fit.