Any data I need to collect for the gurus before dropping?

[sobamaflyer]

Is that a problem? Do I need to re-ring or is there a set of measurements to find out if the ones I have are good

sent from my Galaxy S III

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by sobamaflyer

Is that a problem? Do I need to re-ring or is there a set of measurements to find out if the ones I have are good

sent from my Galaxy S III

Oh oh! not the dreaded should I re-ring alusil question!

Flip a coin, feeling lucky?

Many including myself have successfully installed new rings in Alusil cylinders.

From all the informaton I've read it's a 50/50 proposition.

With 81,000 miles on my car, I took the chance and won. They seated well and no problems 3000 miles later. Your mileage may vary!

[sobamaflyer]

Interesting, I didn't realize this was a oil-esc hot button issue but a brief search suggests it is or was.

Am I being myopic in thinking my compression and leakdown #'s suggest the rings are sealing well and I should leave them alone? I'd like to know how to tell for sure but I wonder if they were already replaced when those head studs were.

[Flat6pac]

Check the top ring land and put them back together again, remember, youre looking for the click in the engine..
Bruce

[sobamaflyer]

Thanks Bruce, good point!

checking for excess room on top landing as if it's been stretched correct?

[Flat6pac]

Unless they have been abused, theyre usually OK, Point being youre not looking for a rebuild but to get it back on the street.
But it does pay to know what you have..
Bruce

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Unless they have been abused, theyre usually OK, Point being youre not looking for a rebuild but to get it back on the street.
But it does pay to know what you have..
Bruce

+1, not burning oil before, lands and gaps good, oil rings look good, put it back together as is.
I only replaced my rings due to one ring breaking during removal for cleaning and measuring.
Being a little OCD I replaced them all...


Onwards to the cause of the ticking....

[sobamaflyer]

I too think given all considerations my rings/pistons/cylinders are getting put back just like they were, they weren't "broke"...

So I dissassembled the rockers this morning in preparation to take the heads to the machinist Monday to evaluate the valves. I did find a broken outer spring, oddly it was on the opposite side of the engine to where I think the noise was.

Here is the #2 Intake spring:


I found 3 shafts with a small amount of play in them (video below demonstrating). The remaining 9 were all smoothly rotating but snug. I notice the play is back and forth only as if it has ovalled the bearing (i.e. it was snug in the y axis and would wiggle in the x axis). The loose ones were 1 & 3 Exhaust and 6 Intake.



Here are photos of 2 of the shafts with play in them.



Finally the Camshaft(s), both look equal to the demonstration photo. I don't find pitting or scoring on any lobe or main of either.




thoughts?

[timmy2]

Your video is private so I can't watch you wiggle!...

[sobamaflyer]

LOL, see if you can see me wiggle now

[timmy2]

Yep, yer wiggles been watched!
Time to re-bush those rockers.
Cgar did mine, but he hasn't posted here since July. I sent him an e-mail today.
Check these posts out:
Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Search Results

[sobamaflyer]

Do I need to rebush all or just the ones with play? And I assume the collective wisdom is going to say replace all the springs?

I submit for evaluation:













I couldn't find a speck wrong inside the case, everything is tight and shiny. All the mains are clean with a overall grey-ish color (not scored or worn). They have 930 part numbers on the back.

I took the crank out and rechecked all the rods, there is no play in and out on any of them. I'm thinking I'm not going to take them off? All the rubber seals look brand new.

So what do I replace in here, I assume that new looking or not I need to get the full engine re-seal kit and replace all the o-rings and such? The seal at the flywheel is pretty and white and hadn't a trace of leakage, replace it anyway? I'm not going to cheap out here, I don't want to be this far into my engine again for a long long time so??

For the record I don't regret doing this a bit, I had a totally unknown quantity and was at least a little nervous a lot of the time wondering if something was going to disintegrate in my 34 year old engine. Now I will happily set off into the wild blue yonder knowing it's solid and fresh and will get me home. That said have I proven my issues that started this journey must be up in the valve-train?

[Sboxin]

Welllll....

Just to add a little data to your bank...

Our 964 crank main bearings looked like that too - pretty nice....

However, when we removed the rods one looked like this...
probably overheated, low oil, etc...engine history unknown - but running when removed





This is the crank main bearings -- all good -- but we replaced them all anyway...
and measured, magnafluxed and polished the crank

I would suggest removing the rods just to be sure -- and then replace the rod
bolts with ARP -- we went a step further and had the rods reconditioned (they
remove some of the flat part of the rod and cut a new round big hole - and replace
the bushings - like new when finished) A bit of while you are in there.





Regards,

[timmy2]

If it were me, I'd re-bush all the rockers and probably replace all the shafts. The springs would be on my list as well.
Sent you a PM.

[sobamaflyer]

Yep, a full set of springs are on my list.

Dropped the heads off at the machinist yesterday, awaiting a report on if I need guides or a valve job to go w/ my new springs.

[sobamaflyer]

Quick question, how much oil is "normal" to be found in the intake system (inner box, intake manifold pipes, AAR (or is that AAV?...bolted to #5 runner). everything from the air plate to the throttle body to the pipes has a wet coat, it poured out of the AAX.

[Flat6pac]

Remember the oil system is sealed with the vapors going directly to the top boot between air flow sensor and the throttle body. To have oil in that area would be a given. The oil condences leaving the tank and being sucked into the engine. There is no mix of fuel until the bottom of the aluminum tubing at the head to cut the oil.
Unless you have run too much oil in the tank with expansion from heat you have natural accumulation.
Bruce

[sobamaflyer]

Thanks Bruce, thought so but I was making sure.

sent from my Galaxy S III

[SCadaddle]

In the photos of the pistons and cylinders, am I mistaken in reading "MAHLE" on the inside of the piston skirt? Are you guys sure those aren't Nikasil Mahles' but rather Alusil KS components?

[sobamaflyer]

Originally Posted by SCadaddle

In the photos of the pistons and cylinders, am I mistaken in reading "MAHLE" on the inside of the piston skirt? Are you guys sure those aren't Nikasil Mahles' but rather Alusil KS components?

They are Alusil, my machinist reported to me Friday they are well over spec in every dimension confirming all the previous thoughts of just putting them back as they were.

He also reported a 2nd broken valve spring, several exhaust (only) valve guides out of spec and of course a few of the rocker bushings out. The shafts were all fine, the valves and seats were all good. I've already purchased 12 new bushings and a whole new set of springs. I'll be ordering all new exhaust guides and a new set of valve stem seals (at his request) Monday.

I'm at the bottom of the hill, starting my way back up