Head Nut Stripped on a 3.2
 

Hi Peeps...I am in midst of first top end redo/update . theses are, in general great motors to work on!!

encountered first probelm... Hex head stripped on one head retaining nut . see pics .. there is still a reasonable lip on outer edge...what type of extractor should i use?

would plan b be to drill it out with a hole saw? plenty of PB blaste r in there...but no go all others were fine this is a lowmiles ( 80k) 88. with no issues and no rust just one bad hex.

before i make it any worse , decided to ask the brain trust thanks frank

email rauscher@wistar.org



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Same problem on mine a few weeks ago, although 3.0sc.

I used a stud / screw extractor. Can't remember what size, will try to find out, but it was a bit too small, so I had to cut about 5mm off the end. Worked a treat then.

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Thanks westy greatly appreciated Frank

You might get the 12 point from the flywheel extractor to jam in and pull it.
Bruce

Frank,

I had a similar problem on one of my top end jobs. I used a fluted extractor that I cut down to fatten it. I can send it your way if you'd like to borrow it to try on the pesky head nut?

Thanks KT i will stop by the local PEP BOYS ( cheesy!!) to see if i can find an extractor tonite if not thanks very much will be helpful cheers frank

When I had something like this happen to me, I used a long punch and a long but thin ended chisel, and mashed the perimeter on the top of the barrel nut to force some of the metal back into the inside, so a regular hex could grab it. In fact, if you force enough metal inward, you may have to pound the hex in, helping reform things.

I also think it might be best to put the other three washers and nuts back on for that head and tighten them. If this is the only one still holding the head on, the head itself will be a bit cocked, which I think will mean more torque will be needed to loosen that fastener. Normally there is always a last nut, and it doesn't matter, but here you want to minimize the torque needed.

I've also seen mention of something sort of like a socket, which can be pounded down over the outside of the barrel. Just in case you can't get it done via one of the other methods suggested here.

get a #6 spiral easyout and use a disc cutter to trim it shorter so it just barely enters the stripped allen head nut. then beat it in solid with a big hammer and use a breaker bar to snap it loose. those things are real tight sometimes and any lesser tool won't work.

check this post http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/305024-how-remove-stripped-head-nut.html

This man speaketh the truth. He's the dude who turned me on to the suggestion I made. If John says it, it worketh!

Here's the type you want to use. They're very strong and bite just like the "internal" sockets

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Thanks john and kt!! Great help my first task this weekend !! Will let you know how it goes !! Cheers frank

yours looks more than just rounded out, so hopefully there's enough to get a grip on.

Final solution!!!
 

IN BETWEEN WATCHING THE EAGLES " SNATCH DEFEAT FROM THE JAWS OF VICTORY"..I MANAGED TO GET THE NUT OFF.. VERY LOWTECH SOLUTON.. DREMEL A NOTCH INTO THE SIDE OF THE NUT THRU A SMALL NOTCH IN THE ALUM. FINS (BOYS IS THIS OK??) FASTEN A SMALL PIECEC OF STEEL, WACK IT INTO NOTCH , AND USE A BIG ADJ WRENCH TO TURN IT... WORKED LIKE A CHARM NOTHING ELSE SUGGESTED INCLUDING THE CUT DOWN BOLT PULLER..

NOTE 30 BUCKS WORTH OF TOOLS SPENT AND .....SOLUTION WAS 50 CENT PIECEC OF SCRAP METAL ..WOOHOO.:eek::eek::eek:

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP FRANK
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I don't think the tiny reduction in cooling capacity will have any practical effect at all. I've got some heads with a broken fin or two on one of my motors, and I don't see that it matters.

One more way to skin the cat. Though I'd not have used such brute force. As you can tell, the guys who rebuild lots of engines (generally other peoples') who responded had tricks which worked without going quite this far. Assuming your screwdriver piece is just mild hardware store steel, this nut can't have been frozen all that fast to the stud (not lat all ike a lot of fractious exhaust manifold nuts, for instance, where they are so tight that you'll break the stud before the nut will release). Especially with the ingenious very small purchase you had.

Since I have a MIG, if less drastic methods failed me I'd have been tempted to stick a steel rod down into the center of the nut, and see if I could tack it in place. Then weld a nut onto its top, and turn that. Or find a piece of steel tube which was a bit smaller than the nut's OD, weld that to the end of a rod, heat the tube red hot, and stick it down over the nut. When it cooled, wrench on the rod end.

Have you considered replacing the nasty barrel nuts with flange nuts? Those are much easier to deal with, if you get your stud height a bit too tall you won't end up bottoming the Allen and leading to too much pressure on too small a barrel nut hex, and they improve cooling (a little bit) by having a smaller sillouette. I believe Porsche now uses those, or something like it, for this application. They have a reduced socket size over a standard nut for a 10mm stud.

If this is a hoped for once in a lifetime rebuild, may not be worth it. But if you think you might eventually have those heads off again, worth thinking about.

I have a parts bin drawer full of barrel nuts.

Good work Frank.

Has this motor been apart in the past? Curious how bad that nut was prior to your drop. I have these as well, when u drop off the G50, I can hook a brotha up...


Eagles are sad...

Walt indeed it was hardened steel and still bent when pressure applied before giving ... Wow.. Very happy the stud did not bust... I tought of the mig angle but considered it too risky with my welding skills.. I like the nut suggestion definitly will be into this motor again..thanks

andrew first time open for this baby......lots of fun... I will do the bolt ons this winter and likely do the p/c , compression and case cracking next winter.. Elgin doing cams..

Re g50..i went to order the guard lsd and matt monson there told me they are completely backordered for a g50 and other models...he said likely by mid late jan 2013 but he still would not promise and/or take an order with a deposit now!! That is a real surprise hope he comes thru...and your guy can do it for me.. Wil be in touch cheers f

Congrats
 

First time open and it rounded, yikes.. I use AeroKroil on all the fasteners that are exposed to either corrosion or excessive temp.. Works like a charm.. Anyway, glad it all apart. If you need help, just ring.

Other options for LSD? When your ready, drop it off..

Should have hammered a Torx bit into the bolt or cut the stud where exposed through the fins with a hack saw... would not consider cutting jug ever. Hopefully works out okay for you.

The studs arent exposed through the fins, I ve had to cut the cylinder to get them off before.
Bruce

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Huh?

No reason to cut anything here...

nice if they were all like that.