I knew you could do it by yourself........
 

Brian,

I got your email and questions about the orientation of the vacuum lines from TV to WUR. I intentionally did not response to your email because the answers to your questions could be found simply by doing the actual tests. I have confidence you'll determine the correct connections when you did the tests. And you proved me right.

Otherwise, I would make a comment if you had it the other way. The next test is at what vacuum pressure does the DV open? You are doing great!!!!! I was expecting this car to be running last summer but shoot for June 2014. I got a lot of time invested in this project too (kidding).

Tony

Thanks Tony.

After testing the parts, and thinking about what is supposed to be going on, it clearified the orientation of the vacuum lines.

Now an update:

Dad was able to come by yesterday, and we had a break in the rain that filled most of the late morning and early afternoon.

I started it, pulled it out, let it warm up for the intent of dad getting a chance to drive, now that we've got it in "working" order. It is still not perfect though.

When I start it, it is a bit of fight. The RPMs are rolling from 500 to 2500 for the first minute or so; and it does this for a little bit until the idle gets to about 1k (still a little high, but one thing at a time, I guess). It is still backfiring when letting off the gas in gear. After having tested the DV, I believe that it is not broken, but I don't know if there is more that I can do to get this thing to run correctly. Also, by way of nose - it still seems like it is running a bit rich.

I have read some posts that say that the DV is adjustable, meading that I can make it hold the idle a bit longer during deceleration, but I am not sure if this will solve my problem.

Anyhow, dad got to drive it for the first time since it was taken off the road, and he really seem to enjoy himself. Since there was not much deceleration involved (hell of a ride from the passenger seat) - it ran decent. Dad really appreciated it --- here's a snap shot of his face while driving :D

Have you??

set the fuel pressures
adjusted the WUR
adjusted the AAR

Once I did this to mine, it has run as well as a German clock....well, at least one controlled by a CIS system. Haven't touched it in over 5 years. Although, I believe it is time to fine tune again.

I got 27 mpg (british gallon) on the tour a couple weeks back. Starts hot or cold on the first crank every time.

I disconnected my O2 sensor and decel many years back. I have a golf tee plugging the vac line. My view......one only needs a raw engine without other crap complicating things.

CIS tuning on tap...
 

It's been a little bit since I've updated this thread, so I will do so here/now.

Last Sunday after I was 'done' with the Mother's day festivities, I got home with a bit of work planned.

Unfortunately, the first part of that work was rudely interrupted by a part that got damaged when I went to replace it. To this point, I had not replaced the fuel filter, and since I have gotten through *some* of a fresh tank of gas, I figured that I would replace the fuel filter, and then run the CIS tests I had planned.

Here's what happened: I got a new filter from the local "import" parts store (mistake #1). I pulled the old filter out, to pull the threaded fittings on the new filter. When I went to put the old fittings on the new filter, I realized that the new filter had the wrong sized threads on the "input" side. I then figured that I could put the old filter back in there and run the tests, NOPE... the threads were bent from me putting a wrench on the opposite side and the torque damaged the threaded fitting. So, I returned the "new" filter (wrong size) and collected all of he part number information off of the old one to call our host. Part order placed.

Then, I decided that I would start to put the interior back together. I put some of the carpet back in, and attempted to attach the "defrost on/off" light back in (thread in the tech section) and broke the terminal (mistake #2) where the black/blue wire connects. ...awesome... so, I put my wrenches back in my tool box/cart and pushed the car back into the garage before I broke anything else. On the side of positive: I was able to fix the "defrost on/off" light at work yesterday, and was able to connect a voltage supply to it to make sure the light works (sigh of relief).

If we have favorable weather this weekend, I will run tests this weekend. One thing that I saw from the old fuel filter was that there was a varnish like substance where the old fuel seemed to build up, and the new filter will likely help add to the solution.

The test sequence to be run:
(install new fuel filter)

Run FP and record the system pressure over time (cold, with WUR wire attached).
Leave the CIS fuel pressure gage on the car ...
Attach the Vacuum gage on the decel valve (and/or WUR)

Start the car to see what our values are against time.

Post information - determine what's next.

Fuel pressure tests.......
 

Brian,

The system fuel pressure does not change over time. It is the cold control fuel pressure that changes over time with heater connected or engine running. Your system pressure is determine by the FD primary valve setting while the control fuel pressures is determined by the WUR. Keep us posted.

Tony

Never fear... work is being done
 

Summer is my time of the year. I am usually very busy when the weather breaks with baseball, so I am trying to get things done now for the impending delivery of the car to dad....

While I was chasing the headlight issue (cannot get the low or high beams to work, only "flash to pass" works) --- I pulled the steering wheel. Decided to pull the busted old stitching and replace it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401580445.jpg

I also decided that the battery would need some support, so I cleaned the rust that was forming in that area (temporary fix) and put a little assembly involving a belt from good will in there to hold the battery in there (securely) while the car is being driven:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401580560.jpg


Well, the battery hold down idea is "borrowed" from another pelican that involved an old cutting board as well.

Now once I have the headlight issue solved, I will get back to the running issue (driving with out a steering wheel is challenging to say the least!)

the battery can be held in place by a $6 battery base bracket & a bolt...I would guess the time spent on driving to & fro the good will + $$ for gas would easily exceed the cost for the parts shipped to you...not trying to rain on your parade as you are doing an admirable job here & for your dad = that is tops in my book...jmho... :-)
carry on...you are doing great...

Battery
 

"the battery can be held in place by a $6 battery base bracket and bolt"


Funny you say that.... because I purchased that solution as my first go at holding the battery down. There is not a cleat on the fore/aft side of the battery, only on the left/right side of the battery - which would have been returned if it were in the allowable period to return it.

So, figuring that the $6 solution will go back because the battery does not permit it to work - I went at it with the cutting board and belt method.

really...? not a nut welded to the underside of the flat/floor surface that the battery (tray) sits on...?
if not one, buy a riv nut and drill a hole in the spot where you can put a bolt down thru the bracket and into the riv nut and secure it more safely...lmk if u dont understand this and I will post some pics...

Pictures are nice, and I would appreciate it.

I have a bolt holding the cutting board (going into the nut that was there for the battery tray) --- the problem is not the fastening system available --- the battery itself does not have a cleat that would allow me to use this bolt/nut assy effectively.

ahhhh...so you do have the bolt hole on the bottom tray, but, your battery covers the hole...my suggestion is to get a gel or amg type of battery of the correct size for your car and then you will be able to secure it correcxtly & equally important have a battery that will NOT emit acid gasses and/or leak which is a common problem on most porsches as when the alternator and/or voltage regulator goes wacky it either stops working entirely or goes to max charge boiling the battery which causes conventional lead acid batteries to boil ie boil over their acid all over the battery area...if you install a sealed battery and the charging system goes wacky it may fry the battery BUT you will not have an acid mess to TRY and clean up... jmho... lmk if you still need help a/o pics...

Yep... Optima red top with a matching billet hold down and don't look back. Not just overheating do wet cell batteries release gases but all the time. If you look at Audi/BMW/Cadillac etc then they have a vent tube on the battery to let the fumes out of the vehicle.

Ok - I'm interested - lets see some pics!!

On a side, I had a red-top optima in my vette a couple years ago. I wasn't all that impressed with the longevity of it.

battery & riv nut recomendation
 

here you go...this is the battery I suggest to buy...go to sears auto center as there are 100's accross the usa...buy the corect size agm/gel battery for your car...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401746047.jpg
here is the base bracket you already have...see the gold bolt on the middle of it...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401746168.jpg
close up of the battery...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401746243.jpg
riv nut...riv nut with bolt in it along with a nut on the bolt to mechanize it/secure it to the bulkhead where you mount it if needed...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401746288.jpg

Tweeks:

Thank you for the pics; an AGM battery is on the list for the future.

I am a little "giddy" because I brought it into work today (my 'test' to see if I could rely on it to get through a 50 mile round trip) - and so far, so good.

I put a new fuel filter on it (long awaited) and it seems to be running a bit better - still not perfect. This weekend I have a little bit of time to work on it, so I will be doing some diagnosing to determine why I have a 'hunting' idle at cold/start up, and a backfire that happens only when I let off the gas.

On another front, I got a LOT of compliments on it today!

Progress...
 

Over the weekend, I got some time with the car. The original plan was to deliver it on father's day (...yesterday...) - but I really want to give this car back to dad with out a "to-do" list.

So, I went after the easy stuff: the in-cabin wire harness that a PO beat the hell out of. Good news, I got the radio to work (which was *much* harder than it sounds, as I have never installed an aftermarket radio in any car) and then I organized the wires to be able to be hidden. I then went after the other stuff: Head-light relay kit installed (earlier last week), and cleaned the fuse contacts with a little wire brush and hit each with some dielectric grease.

After I cleared the in-cabin wire harness (was a complete mess, now situated) - I went after the speedometer. With car on jack stands, I got under and tried to figure out why the speedo sending unit was not sending 8 pulses at the in-tunnel blade connection. With my helper buddy (a 15 year old neighbor kid who is very intrigued by my many projects at our house) spinning the wheels, battery connected, fuses confirmed to be OK, I put my multimeter on and looked for the "8 pulses" -- nothing.


So, I decided that I may have a bad "sending unit" and did some digging (about an hour worth). It turns out that I was installing the "puck" on the transmission 180 degrees out of phase (DUH). I will give that a shot tonight, and hopefully be able to save my wallet the $158 plus shipping for a new sending unit.

Along the way, I did the "jumper" test described in my shop manual to make sure that the speedo needle jumped: it did (sigh of relief).


While I was under the car, I confirmed that the CV joint bolts were still torqued correctly, and also confirmed that the engine mount bolts were still torqued OK/correctly.

More later!

Have you cleaned the various ground points in the car? I believe there are some 7 of them. When I did this to mine, I was surprized at how well the electrics operated - gauges, lights, etc. all seemed to come to life.

Charlie:

As I have encountered the ground points, I cleaned them. So far, I've encountered 3 of them, and when I did; I would hit the ground point with a wire brush and hit the connection with a bit of dielectric grease. Seeing that I now have things working (hurray! The speedo works now!!!) - I will continue to clean as I encounter the ground points.

Next up: repair the odometer. Seriously??? How on earth did this thing stop working??
I guess that is what happens when these cars sit for the better part of a decade.

I am thinking that I may send the speedometer to a professional, as now with the speedo working and the odo not working, I may consult a pro to fix this thing.

Good thinking, send it to North Hollywood and have it re-faced while there too! It's a small plastic gear that goes bad but MUCH better to have them go through it and be done!