I never thought of using ear clamps on fuel lines.

I have used these clamps on high pressure waterlines running at ~100 psi. I could never get a quality leak proof clamp with the above what I call "end cutters" tool. I invested in a waterline surlok tool sold by Home Depot. It has a built in mechanical advantage to make a quality tight clamp. Zero leaks now.

Waterline | Surlok Starter Set With Rings | Home Depot Canada

Just passing on my experience.

Never tried these with a pex water service but the hard material that pex uses could use a higher clamp the rubber of our fuel lines makes a great seal.

The decision is made, a couple days ago - I made a purchase for some nice flare nut wrenches and I am going to get under there later next week and pull these fuel lines off to get new ones. The rubber section on one of the lines has a little crack on it, and I figure that after all this work deferring an investment on new fuel lines would be foolish. I am not going to tempt fate here, a few more hours and a little more money is no big deal in my mind.

I will post pictures of progress.

I had some time to work on the car today, I pulled the fuel lines out that are in question.

Over all, not too bad of a job, although this would have been MUCH more easy to do with the engine/trans not in the car. I guess I should have just replaced the lines back then, but hind sight is always 20/20.

Glad I did: these lines were due.




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393203288.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393203489.jpg

I had a small cup there to collect the gas that came from the lines when I disconnected, and - well, there was a bunch of black debris in there, so I think that I am going to replace the fuel filter as well while I am in there...

any updates?

Updates:

I am working with Len to get some new fuel lines to replace these. Bling included (braided SS); and while I wait I have been trying to figure out how to address the clutch cable/pedal travel issue.

We got about 6 inches more snow over the weekend; I had to focus some efforts in moving snow around - so I didn't get to crawl under the car over last weekend.

Another option is a hydraulic hose shop and have them fabricated. Just bring the old ones and they will match fittings, etc. Price is usually good going this route.

Update:

After a long delay (including a return trip of the new hoses to the supplier for a length issue) - I was able to put some time in under the car yesterday to install the new hoses.

On a scale of 1-10 for 'difficulty' - I'd rate this job at a 7, not because you have to really engage your brain, but more because it is really hard to get the hoses positioned properly (through the guide loops against the frame). I may upgrade this to a 7.5+ because all of the work has to be done while lying on your back, which is no fun at all.

Anyhow, I tested the system to ensure that I did not have a leak (all connections were tight) and we have success.

I plan to get under the car again later this week to fidget with the clutch cable which I disconnected to make the fuel line replacement job easier.

It is getting close now...............

Clutch cable: what's up here?
 

I looked at the forecast and decided it would be a good idea to work on the car today to get it ready for a potential test drive in the very near future. On deck: fix the clutch cable to make it work correctly.

I have a problem though: to say the least. I backed the adjustment screw out to put the lock nut on the lever arm, and here is my result:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396131800.jpg

...far larger gap than the workshop manual says to have...

So, I attempted to move the clutch lever back one tooth:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396131913.jpg

What gives? This is clearly not an issue of "my clutch CABLE needs to be replaced" - but rather, something that leads me to believe that I have a part in the equation that is incorrect altogether.

Before we get to "is your clutch fork on the throw out bearing groove" - yes it is - I made very sure of that when I mated the trans and engine.

also: is your clutch fork broken? It was fine when I put the engine and trans back together. I did not replace it, but it was not broken, damaged, bent out of shape or the like when I put the engine and trans back together.

Is there something else that I may be missing? If the clutch fork is now damaged (somehow, likely because of osmosis), I see another engine drop in my very near future.

Thoughts?

Success!!

A solution of sorts.

When I took a very close look at the omega spring interface, the pin that is mounted to the lever (near the cable hook) was not completely set in place. When I would load the release lever, the position ended up further that it should - toward the rear of the car.


I was able to take it for a spin today, and the shift linkage made it very tough to figure out when I was in 1st, more work to go - HOWEVER - I got it to go a few miles. Man the engine sounds beautiful when loaded up.

on the list:

I have a mysterious oil leak from one of the oil supply lines, not sure which one though. Needs to be addressed before I trust it to go 'far'
Fix the shift linkage so that I can be sure where 1st through 5th is, and hit it (without a fight) every time
Put the interior back together - I drove it without the petal floorboard today.
Figure out why the headlights don't work.
Speedo doesn't work, not sure why.

congrats. Once you have the last few things sorted, it will be proud moment for you.

Progress: slow but sure
 

Today, I took the ol' gal (...my wife...) for a little spin. To this point, I hadn't brought the car onto the interstate, so I put that on the list.

I still have not figured out why the speedo doesn't work - but I didn't push it to have the local law inform me how fast I was going. Although - this machine sounds beautiful above 4k.

Anyhow, I was able to pinpoint why we had an oil leak --- fixed that. The chain tensioner oil line was not tight - enough - and spewing oil all over the passenger HE and leaving a nice puddle all over my drive way/garage. It also appears that there is a little bit of oil leaking from the seam of the engine block.

The wind noise is really quite annoying when driving at highway speed. That is a project I am sure that we will tackle in the future.

The shifter is akin to (as someone elseon the forum put it) putting a spoon in a bowl of stew and stirring around when looking for any gear except 5/R. Since I was curious as to why the shifter is sooooo sloppy, I started pulling the carpet away to get to the shifter and figure out what is going on. What I found was another mess that I am sure that I am going to have to deal with.

One: the grey carpet that goes over the tunnel is really pretty shot. I am sure that I will find a replacement chunk either on the FS section or maybe I will buy some from our host.

What I uncovered was a mess of wires that is going to need attention.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396831039.jpg

Wires have been hacked, and left behind by the PO (before Dad, he didn't really get into the car till the trans issue).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396831260.jpg

Where is this supposed to go to?

Also, between the seats, there was this wire sitting there -- any ideas where this goes?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396831340.jpg

What a mess.

Items added to the list -

1) a gated shifter (Siene?)
2) figure out where these wires go and straighten that mess (input there would be helpful)
3) Get a carpet chunk for the tunnel
4) Figure out why the pedal floor board will not allow the clutch pedal to travel enough (new cable may be on the list) as I have been driving it with out the driver pedal floorboard.

Good Friday progress
 

Today, I was able to put some time into the car, and I am very pleased about my progress.

I installed:

A new gas-strut for the engine lid (easy)
A new clutch cable (that clevis mount is a very tight area to work in!)
A new bunch of clutch arm components ("helper spring bearing" was interesting to replace.... likewise the tiny circlips on the omega spring post)
A new tunnel shifter bushing
A shift rod dust cover (what the hell does this thing protect, anyway?)
A WEVO PSJ
A shifter "cup"

Wow. That was a LOT.

So, on the agenda was to install all this 'stuff' to get the shifter to be less of a mess. I see a noteworthy improvement, but I don't think that it's at it's best, meaning that I may still go to some type of system that will spring the gear selector back to the 'neutral' plane between 3rd and 4th.

So, with the driver's seat out, and a solid amount of the carpet kit out, I came across two wires that I am curious about. I will post that 'question' over in the tech forum, but the bottom line here is that there was much progress here today.

Now, because this forum loves pictures (as do I...) here's a shot of the aluminum pedal floor board installed:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397880531.jpg

And the WEVO PSJ installed:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397880593.jpg


Good times! Maybe another "test drive" may be in order tomorrow.

Progress: runs but not optimal!
 

Quick update.

I have it running, and have taken it for a drive after I did all the work - but noticed that it is backfiring when I take my foot off the gas and down shift.

It also has a bit of a hard time starting, there is a little more to do to get this thing right.

With the help of Tony, (thank you!) I have purchased a vacuum pump to test the thermo valve (TV) and the Decel-valve (DV).

With the weather breaking soon, I have a list of things to do on the car before I give it back to dad, but that list is quickly getting smaller.

The biggest headache is the mess of wires in the cabin; but at least it is running closer to correctly now, and I am happy about that.

Vacuum readings.......
 

Brian,

What's the vacuum reading (" Hg) you are getting for the TV (thermo valve) and DV (deceleration valve)? post the values so other could share these tests. thanks.

Tony

Let the testing begin...
 

Ok; I thought about my strategy to test my TV and the DV, and decided that I would tackle the TV first, as I have a clear idea of how to do it.

So:

Step 1 - I pulled the heater hose crap (for the 100th time) and got a straight shot to it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399076505.jpg

Step 2 - I removed it from the bracket
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399076592.jpg

I made sure that I labeled where the vacuum hoses were coming from - although - it is still unclear to me where the vacuum lines are "supposed" to go to (ie: is the centered vacuum line supposed to go to the WUR? Or the DV?). Likewise, I do not know if there is a direction that the wires are supposed to go on the bottom of this thing when hooked up.


Those things aside, I forged ahead, and pulled this guy out:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399076866.jpg


...and made my way into the kitchen and set up my test area...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399076938.jpg

I connected the vac gage to the centered inlet (as pictured) and get a hold of vacuum pressure consistently - at 70F. Though I am not sure what that means (I think that it is performing it's function at this temperature). I can get 15in Hg consistently. I can go higher, but this thing is almost as old as I am, so I am not going to push my luck and put tons of pressure on it - though I did get 22in Hg and then my little connection started leaking (in the hose going TO the TV, not anything to do with the TV itself).

For kicks, again at "room temp" (70F), I tested the inlet that is off-centered: it will not hold a vacuum.

Next up: Lets throw this into the freezer and see what happens.

Ok - I threw this guy in the freezer and - well - realized that the function of this thing is "valve open" at hot, not at cold.

So, I pulled it out of the freezer and tested with my vacuum gage, and again: valve closed was confirmed (15++in Hg).

Next up, let's warm this guy with a hair dryer.

Hit with a hair dryer... now the valve is open.

clearly open... no vacuum at ALL.

So, this leads me to believe that the TV (itself) is functioning correctly.

However, this brings me back to my original question: is the TV centered vacuum line supposed to go to the WUR? Or to the DV?

And ... does the wire connection direction make a difference?

DV test at room temp
 

Ok,

i pulled the "tee" connection off of the top of my DV (devel valve)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1399088555.jpg

and attached my vacuum gage to it.

It's about 55 F outside, and I get a consistent vacuum gage reading, once again at or above 15++ in Hg - and I did the reading several times.

So, have we ruled the DV and TV out as suspect? I believe so, but I am not convinced that I had the vacuum lines from the TV to the WUR correct, even after looking at "the primer" diagrams multiple times. Any input from the forum?