stud removing collet sizes

[47silver]

i missed a complete set of snap on metric stud removers on ebay yesterday so i want to pick up what i need by individual parts for tearing down or rebuilding a motor.
as a minimum do i need the
m6 x 1.0
m8 x 1.25
the m10 x 1.5

or should i get the m8 x 1 or the m10 x 1.5?

[fred cook]

You can probably get by with just the 8mm one. That will work on any of the studs in the cylinder heads, and will also work on the cylinder head studs (block) if you cut the threaded ends of the old stud off. Or, if you don't wish to cut the cylinder head studs, you can just use a small pipe wrench to turn them out once the block has been heated with a torch. I don't remember having to replace any 6mm studs during the rebuild of my engine.

[Walt Fricke]

Silver

That's what I'd get unless all I had were Supertec head studs, which use a finer thread on the head side of the stud.

[47silver]

thanks, i appreciate the information.

[boyt911sc]

Silver,

I've done a few 3.0 liter engines (top & bottom) and removed dozens dilavar head studs (M10 x 1.5) and intake/exhaust studs (M8 x 1.25) with these two (2) collets. Never needed a M6 x 1.0 extractor in the past.

Tony

[safe]

removed a few headstuds and all I needed on non-boken studs was 2 nuts and a good propane torch. On broken studs a nut and a mig welder.

[47silver]

i used 2 the nut method on parts in the past but not on a motor. I am and was worried about stressing the stud threads as to get them to work you have to tighten them beyond what i think normal torque is for bolt/stud.
. i was thinking that the collet type would be less destructive.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 47silver

i used 2 the nut method on parts in the past but not on a motor. I am and was worried about stressing the stud threads as to get them to work you have to tighten them beyond what i think normal torque is for bolt/stud.
. i was thinking that the collet type would be less destructive.

Silver,

I have used the double nuts, welded nut, and collet stud extractor (Snap-On) methods. They all work. They come with different degree of efficiency. Since Tom Butler introduced me to his technique in head studs removal, the Snap-On tool has been my choice since. In conjunction with an impact wrench, the removal takes about 3 mins. or less per stud without heating. And longer if the stud would need extra heating. But most of the time, the dilavar head studs would come off in seconds (unheated) using moderate impact setting. I've done more than 10 SC engines so far and never broken a head stud using the Snap-On collet plus impact wrench set at moderate torque.

Tony

[47silver]

as luck would have it i was able to by a full kit of snap on metric like this

[safe]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

the removal takes about 3 mins. or less per stud without heating.

Tony

The manual says specifically (for the 3.6 at least) "heat case to remove", so why don't use heat?
Double nut, 30 seconds of propane heat and they come out so easily with one hand on the wrench.
If you put some pressure on the wrench you feel it clearly when it lets go and if you remove the heat and keep turning it out you feel it tighten again.

[Walt Fricke]

Well, my take is that double nutting is for occasional use on just a few studs, or for an odd thread. And for tricky places - if in some improbably way you damaged the threads of one of the case studs by the flywheel, but weren't splitting the case, I think a collet would be too wide.

If you are pulling all the studs (head, or case, or intake/exhaust valve, or cam carrier to heads, etc), then having the right collets is the way to go. Speed up boring repetitive chores. Normally you don't have to do this for a typical R&R.

And I could see a guy who persuades himself that his bad stud replacement job is all the fussing with studs he is ever going to do all his life deciding to go with double nutting, aided by heat as needed. Especially if he doesn't have air or electric impact tools.

[47silver]

thanks again,,