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irobertson's Avatar
 
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Repaint of cylinder baffle tin ?

I'm repainting the tin from between my cylinders and I'm wondering if a regular acrylic enamel would do, or should I be using a "high heat" type paint for these?

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Old 07-14-2013, 11:16 AM
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You will need a high heat paint. Regular paint will not last. Best option is powder coat but it's a little expensive.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:22 AM
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Powdercoat.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:45 AM
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Why not buy new ones? I was surprised how cheap they are and come ready painted! Probably cheaper than getting existing ones coated!!
Old 07-14-2013, 12:21 PM
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Yeah, powdercoat does seem like the best idea.
Thanks guys.

keysham1, unfortunately I already bought these used ones (before I realized how cheap they are) to replace my rotted out ones.
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Last edited by irobertson; 07-14-2013 at 12:34 PM.. Reason: added a line
Old 07-14-2013, 12:31 PM
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Powdercoat the engine tin at the same time.
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:46 PM
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CTC has VHT ceramic spray paint which appears to be over kill for your application, being rated at 2000 degrees, so it should work.
Old 07-14-2013, 02:44 PM
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Zinc plate?
Old 07-14-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddu View Post
Zinc plate?
... won't protect as well as powdercoat. People seem to zinc plate everything else on these engines though so I imagine someone would endorse the idea.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.”
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:31 PM
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Buying new will work for a while and then they'll rust like the used ones. I agree powdercoat would work just fine.

Or you could use a pure zinc galvanizing paint primer before high temp painting. I have used LPS zinc on exhaust parts and it works fantastico.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/613

Once you get some heat on the painted parts, it hardens to a very tough surface. I painted some header extension pipes with it and they withstood hard use on a track car.



They're a little dirty in the picture but you can see the LPS paint lasted MUCH better than the crappy "ceramic" paint that Chinese OBX headers came with. I bought the headers new and the paint started coming off right away. I bought the extensions used, wire-wheeled them to remove most of the surface rust and painted with only LPS. Held up fantastic.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:57 PM
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It appears the ceramic paint on the headers next to the extensions has held up well? I'm not sure if the lower temperature further away from the manifold has anything to do with this or maybe the headers were not prepped as good as surface you created by wire-wheeling the extensions?
Old 07-17-2013, 06:45 AM
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There's more pictures here

OBX Shorty Headers, Extensions, M&K Shorties

You can see in one of the pictures the header collector is losing the paint too. Rust coming thru very easily. Definitely get what you pay for with the OBX plain steel headers. They fit/work OK but their painted finish is very temporary
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:55 AM
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DIY alternative...make new ones out of stainless steel!
I did mine that way....my lazyness got the better of me...never have to look at them again.
Bob
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:57 PM
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I just used BBQ grill hi temp paint. Bead blasted them first and then sprayed them. Didn't feel like waiting for powder coat turn around time and you can't really see much of them when they are installed any way. Held up fine. I did powder coat all of my engine tin, fan shroud, etc. just didn't see the point on the air baffles.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddu View Post
Zinc plate?
The truth is zinc works just fine. Over the years we've used zinc plating, powder coating, Duracoat and plain old Krylon with little difference to base a definitive answer on.
We zinc coat all of the tin as a base for the items we paint.
Generally we Duracoat the tin on concours restorations (to simulate the factory finish) and on hot rod engines we leave the cooling tin gold zinc and powder coat the rest.
Although Duracoat is expensive, as the name suggests, it's extremely durable and offer a genuine factory look for items like sheet metal, valve covers and throttle bodies.

DuraCoat Firearm Finishes
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:46 AM
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I went with Zinc. Was taking a bunch of fasteners anyway, and it's 1 price so I figured I might as well. I had the rest of the tins powder coated @ Calico.




Todd
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt View Post
Generally we Duracoat the tin on concours restorations (to simulate the factory finish) and on hot rod engines we leave the cooling tin gold zinc and powder coat the rest.
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes
Have any of your customers ordered the camo paint option?
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil '67 911S View Post
Have any of your customers ordered the camo paint option?
I did an SL8 to G36 conversion in camo for a customer but that's a topic for another forum.

BTW: since is the NSA is watching, these are types of transmissions.
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Last edited by Henry Schmidt; 07-21-2013 at 12:49 PM..
Old 07-20-2013, 07:35 AM
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We media blast and powder coat. Been very happy with the results.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:36 PM
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The DuraCoat looks interesting.
I need to refinish my axles as well, so that sounds like a good option there too.

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Old 07-21-2013, 11:02 AM
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