Pelican Parts Forums - 930 3.4 Engine Rebuild (lots of pics)

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I understand from Mark Henry, that a good way to test the rocker bushing is to
stick a shaft in the rocker so that it is centered, and try to rock it. If there is no play your good to go.

Looks good.
When I took mine apart it had 3 shims under the thrust washer on the left side and 4 on the right side. I read thats the default shim pack.

I put the same cams back in after having webcam regrind them and I don't have the stromski tool for measuring cam sprocket alignment so I decided to put the shims back the way they were.
I think they're the same shims that go in the middle of the alternator pulley to set fan belt tension.
The fine threads on the top of a spark plug fit the little cam timing pin.

Good tip on the sparkplug tip JFairman. Were your shims under the large thrust washer? Mine were on top. Curious. Another item of note large washer had a bevel on it that faced the cam. Camshaft sprockets were oriented differently on left and right sides. Left side cup of sprocket facing out, Right side sprocket flat side facing out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpilcher (Post 7743004)

Camshaft sprockets were oriented differently on left and right sides. Left side cup of sprocket facing out, Right side sprocket flat side facing out.

That's correct. The sprockets do not face the same direction when installed properly. The left (cyl 1-2-3) sprocket has the dish facing out, right has the dish facing in.

Shims go on top of the thrust washer. Thought is that it makes it simple to remove a shim if needed when setting the parallelism of the chains. Otherwise you have to remove the thrust washer and then pull off (or add) a shim. You also want the thrust washer bearing against the cam, as that's its purpose- to handle the thrust/lateral load the cam puts on the sprocket. Its thicker than the shims and has the ability to bear the load.

More progress on disassembly.
Received my cylinder stoppers from our host.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384119929.jpg
Cam end plate removal 3 - 10mm bolts
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384119991.jpg
Rubber O ring needs replacing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120065.jpg
Chain box almost ready for removal
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120147.jpg

Chain box off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120232.jpg
Loosened all the barrel head studs. Glad to report no broken studs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120282.jpg
Loosened the oil tubes
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120403.jpg
Removed the cam and placed in in plastic zip lock bag. 964 cam appeared to be in good shape. Head pulled up and off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120595.jpg
Carbon buildup on top of the pistons. What is the best way to remove?
Bead blast? or solvent?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384120709.jpg

Now the million dollar question. Can these cylinders be reused without replating.
The cylinders are Nikasil cylinders. There is a total of 11 fins.
There is a definite cross hatch on the cylinders walls. There appears to be some
carbon staining at the top of the cylinders.

Another question. Can the flame rings be cleaned up and re-used? I thought that the flame rings were used in high boost applications. Why did these fail?
It's apparent that Cylinders 1, 3, and 5 were leaking. The history behind the car is unknown. I have owned the car approximately 1 year.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384121735.jpg
Right Cylinder Head off. Removed the cam first. Bagged it. One item of note. In order to get the barrel nuts removed, I had to remove the spark plugs.
This was also done on the left cylinder head.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384121761.jpg
Cylinder Head 1 to 3. Are heads leaking due to air injection ports?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384121935.jpg
Cylinder Head 4 to 6
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384122055.jpg

What is the best way to clean the case? I've been using an engine degreaser up till now, but not happy with the result. There appears to be some tough stains.
Want to find something a little stronger.

Cylinder number 1 needs to have the spark plug thread repaired. Hopefully I can just run a tap through it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384122882.jpg

Cylinder heads are not leaking due to air injection ports. Leaking due to poor clamping from the dilavar head studs. I'd recommend either ARP or Supertec's head studs.

Yep you can reuse the cylinders w/out replating, assuming they're in spec in terms of wear & ovality & piston-cylinder clearance. Only way to know that is to measure them. Clean up the nikasil surfaces with HOT soapy water and uniform circular/spiral scrubbing with red scotchbrite pad. Sounds crude but it does work.

Soaking the pistons with WD40 works good to soften the carbon. Takes a long time- at least overnight if not more. Then you can scrape it off with a blunted stiff scraper. I have a "special" old flatblade screwdriver I use for this. :P Or if you're in a hurry, use something more aggressive like a fine bristle wire wheel on the drill. Protect the sides of the piston by wrapping with masking or packaging tape.

Case takes some patience for sure. Probably one of the most involved rebuild tasks is case cleaning. Carb cleaner is effective but NASTY stuff. Use in well ventilated area. That stuff will kick your arse if not careful.

Was helping a friend with his rebuild years ago w/a bunch of guys & we were cleaning stuff on the garage floor while others were standing up working on other things. Didn't take long for us to begin coughing sort of uncontrollably. It was the fumes from the carb cleaner settling on the floor area. Open windows in the garage weren't enough. Had to crack the garage door open a bit and let it air out/circulate. Best to have a fan going in the garage. Lesson learned & there go a bunch of brain cells i'll never get back....

Nowadays I use a soy based cleaner called Emerge made by Franmar. Very friendly stuff to yourself in terms of no nasty smell to kill your brain. Have to be sure to use it smartly. Like Simple Green, it mildly attacks aluminum if left on there for a very long time. You have to be sure to rinse the Emerge with water (rinses very easily) and I follow it up with soapy water. I like Dawn blue liquid dish soap. I think a good sign of a very effective degreaser is how well the crud comes off your cleaning brushes. When you rinse the emerge grease sludge, it comes right off your scrub brush and looks squeaky clean. Unlike other degreasers where your brush is now covered in greasy residue.

Emerge *Concentrate* [DF] - $9.95 : Franmar Chemical Inc.

Note that they actually make parts washing solvents too

PARTS WASHERS : Franmar Chemical Inc.

I only have experience with their Emerge. I'll be honest that I had the stuff on-hand from doing a mastic removal job in my basement. It's used as a final clean for their mastic remover. So I "blindly" discovered that the emerge is a kickass degreaser.

BTW their paint remover rocks too. It removes paint, powdercoating and asphalt awesomely. Used it to remove the asphalt residue on the floor of my racecar after mechanically chiseling all that junk off the floor...... ugh.

Thanks Kevin

Was planning on replacing the Dilivar head studs with Supertec studs. Also going to do the ARP rod bolts. Will try soaking the pistons in WD40, overnight.

Cylinders are next on my list of things to remove. Can Flame rings be re-used? What is best way to clean out the grooves?

Regards

John

it's easier to bead blast them if you have a blast cabinet