I found that doing the chamfer by hand I was able to vary the pressure and rotation enough no to get any chatter. Careful not to over do it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387040585.jpg

can anybody explain
 

why chamfer ONLY the left side of the case?

Thanks Ian, didn't see this. Already posted on Rennlist to your old thread. Mine didn't come out looking as good as yours, but I compared them to the right side and factory side looks about like mine, chatter and all.

This is Ollie's.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387049805.jpg

mine after.
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@Bill. The right side of the case is already chamfered from factory. Some engines, for whatever reason did not come with case through bores on left side chamfered. There is some discussion, (see other threads on this forum) about O-rings leaking without the chamfers, especially using the Viton O-rings.

thanks!

Got the rods installed on the crank, fairly uneventful. Sealed the case. That was a different story. Nothing went according to plan. Had to call my wife in to the garage to hold chains and rods. I'd get the case to close up and saw a oil pump o-ring unseated. Started again and a rod would hang up on the case. Then the inner intermediate bearing popped out from a case stud on the right side nicking the boss.
Pulled case back off. Inspected and cleaned bearing. Checked boss. Scratched in front of the bearing. Now I'm really getting nervous and running out of time. Re-installed left inner intermediate shaft bearing. But, I think I forgot to add some assembly lube, (crap). Installed left case

Went around perimeter first. Then, torqued through bolts with O-rings. Pretty frazzled. Went ten minutes over my time. Missed two stud nuts, one at front bottom and one at rear bottom. Got a small bead of TB 1184 all around. A little less at top of case. Squeeze out on Loctite 574 looks ok, what I can see from the bottom of the case. Crank rotates OK. Thinking about disassembling and doing it again. Just have to clean-up all the sealants.
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Looks really neat, huh? Not how it ended up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109125.jpg
didn't take pics of assembly lube application. Used Brad Penn assembly lube.

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Looks great. Grats on sealing the case. Pucker factor huh :)

The Threebond cleans up very easily on the sealing surfaces. So if its going to bug you, I wouldn't hesitate resealing it. But honestly you should be OK. The Threebond seals good and does not have the deadline for curing like 574. You simply spread it on thin & evenly, let sit for at least a minute, then join the parts. And your timing on the 574 isn't as critical on the main webs in terms of actual sealing. Those aren't an absolute must to be sealed, as they're internal to the case. The 574 sealant used there is just extra bonding on the web faces to hold them together.

Thanks for the response, Kevin.
Not sure about it. I didn' t have a confident feeling about it due to all the drama and nerves.
I think taking what I learned and just applying it. I want to be more confident in the case sealing beforr I do anymore work to the motor. Someone else advised there looks like to much squeeze out.

Any special precautions removing Threebond? Worried about Threebond debris in oil passages.

Looks like assembly will be on hold for a while. :(

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388199189.jpg

Gouged bearing boss just in front of the bearing with stud. Not sure what to do.

Wet-sand it off until smooth. No big deal. Try not to do it again... you'll start running out of material.

So, disassembled everything. Cleaned up case halves. Just need to clean studs where some of the TB wicked up. Checked my torques with beam torque wrench. Most were dead on, but a few were not. Probably from not getting full turn to reach torque value. O-rings on side I chamfered looked great, except for one that was completely shredded. Made new holding fixtures. Chain holder was slightly too wide. A practice dry run would've found this out.

What is the consensus on installing through bolts without O-rings and coming back later and installing O-rings one at a time?

That's how I would do it.

I would also consider a hoist to control the lowering of the case half precisely if it's giving you a hard time.

Really interesting, subscribed.

I used coat hangers bent to shape for holding the con rods and cam chain up in the air. Pretty easy to make. Once the rods and chain are positioned, paint the sealant on the perimeter then the 574 to the webs. The case half that has the #8 nose bearing locater pin is the bottom half bolted to the stand. I have the top half ready on the bench. For me, a hoist of some sort would get in the way. Besides, the upper case half just doesn't weigh much.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388511294.jpg

Little bummed. Went to check piston squirters after cleaning everything up and getting ready to assemble case again this weekend, found only #2 shooting. Put compressed air through them and Sea Foam spray. Had Ollie's clean and check them. Got case off stand and put back in shipping box. Going back to Ollie's. At least maybe George or Ike can clean up the case in front of the intermediate shaft bearing and check bearing clearances.

How long can I leave the crank vertical with rods attached? Any harm in leaving rods on crank like that? Don't really want to disassemble it and buy another set of rod bolts.

As long as they're oiled... I would say about 15,000 years.

What method are using to get compressed air to the squirters?

@ lindy, just rubber tipped nozzle into left side case piston squirter passages about 100 psi. Hard to get a good seal on it. Called George this morning at Ollie's. He said they tested them before and after hot tanking and that in his opinion people worry too much about piston squirters. He advised that once hydraulic pressure hits the back of the ball, they will open.
Not sure, just wish I had a better feeling about them. Afraid to stick anything through the passage for fear of damaging something. George has 40 yrs experience with these engines so, I inclined to let it go. Just bothers me that #2 is spraying so easily. Maybe #2 is stuck open and 1 and 3 stuck shut.

Trying to think of anything I might have done to clog them. I've been super protective of all the oil passages. Had Ollie's remove all the case plugs and clean. Right now I've got the passages filled with PB Blaster and I'll try again tonight.

Mitch, you have to block the passage after the squirter intlet to divert the pressure to the squirter. If you don't block it it will let all the air by-pass the squirter inlet port. Look down the oil passage and you'll see a port going off towards the squiter. Push the rubber hose past that point so it blocks the back side of the passage, then apply air pressure. The "tool" I made is 3/8 rubber hose with a 6mm stud pushed into the end to fatten it up. If Ollies says it's good, it's good but it never hurts to make sure.


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thanks lindy, got left side squirters to work. #2 might be sticking, but George at Ollie's didn't think it was anything to worry about.

So, got everything cleaned up again and I have some free time tomorrow and Tuesday so I might try to reseal soon.

Started thinking about choices I made and when I would get an opportunity to experience this again. Decided to do a little more to the hardware. Had some stuff cadmium plated by a local shop that has a pretty good reputation. They did a 8 hr post bake on all the parts.


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What is the white looking stuff? Aluminum oxidation or left over residue from hot tanking? Tried to scrub it out and it's not coming off.

smart boy there mitch = they did an 8 hr bake after plating = to avoid possible hydrogen embritlement on the newly plated hdwr... carry on...going great...!! bob

Thanks Bob. We'll see...

I got some time yesterday and resealed case. Everything seemed to go pretty good. But, as soon as I torqued the last bolt the worry set in. Did I see the oil seals at pump before the case closed? Did I use too much or too little sealant? The prevailing torque nuts seemed to require more torque to get snugged.
Finally, the question I lost sleep over. Got squeeze out of 1184 everywhere except about 1/8 of an inch on either side of the #8 bearing. I really don't want to attempt another reseal at this point, but if I must I will. Should I be concerned? I thought it might be something to do with the #8 o-ring. I'm sure I got sealant up to the edges. Seems like there is a lot or real estate there as far as mating surface.

now is the time to make sure all is ok than to worry for ever as long as you own the engine & car...just think of how profecient you are becoming at this step... :-) not trying to be a wise as^ here but it is what it is...best to double check now than worry for ever...you are not aline I am sure for having to double do a step or so in a build...

Took a few pics and got a real close look. Underneath the #8 looks ok. Small amount of squeeze out. Above is about 1/8" to 1/4" of no squeeze out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389833312.jpg
under #8

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389833406.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389833438.jpg

I think you're good to go. Mine leaked around the #8 bearing where you are showing good squeeze out. The case joint itself was never an issue. Nice work.

Really lindy? I had pretty much convinced myself I need to try it again one more time. I thought maybe the three bond set up there and didn't squeeze out. Even though I only spent 5 min putting it on. That stuff skims over really fast. Or, maybe since the #8 is new it's perfectly round where the case is not and maybe keeping the case from mating as well right next to it.

Actually, there is another possibility. The squeeze out could have wiped off onto my jacket while I was putting in the 10 mm nut in the chain housing. I have a thin .25" line of threebond on my jacket that I kinda wondered how it got there...maybe.

It's a hard call. If you get it wrong, there's a lot of back tracking to do. The whole way back.
If you sealed the # 8 main the way we suggest in our case sealing recommendation that comes with our sealing kit, you are probably OK.
The pressure comes for the oil passage/ transition between the case and #8 bearing and if you sealed around that oil passage you will have handled the pressure leak. If there is no sealant between the case halves you could still a weeping.
Your call. It's not an easy one.
Good luck

Thanks Henry. Got squeeze out of the 1211 ok. Yeah, I'm gonna be pissed either way. The reseal really isn't a big deal. Just gotta clean everything again.

Just got in from garage. Disassembled case and did most of clean-up. I'll post pics tomorrow. Right where the problem area was there was a smear, like the sealant was smeared away at left side exactly at the sharpie mark on the right side case I made for lining up the #8 bearing. I didn't think that ink mark would keep the sealant from adhering. So, might have been a good call to reseal.

On an unrelated issue, when I pulled the crank out several of the right side mains came with it. Stuck to the journals. Are these bearing bad now that I've torqued and untorqued them...twice?

John,

Refresh my memory what the sharpie mark does. If i'm not mistaken, the #8 bearing can only go in one way, so long as you have the dowel pin in the case. I recall there's a scribed mark on the #8 that is visible when it's properly installed in the respective case halve as well?

I suspect the main bearings came out because your assembly lube is pretty sticky? Garage sorta cold? Probably not, being in TX you lucky dog! :D

The mains don't seem to press into the main webs as nearly as tightly as the rod shells do in the rods. I would make sure the back side of the bearings are lightly roughed with some abrasive to give them some "bite" in the webs. Check the fit of the bearings in the webs again & pay attention to how they push into their locations. If they've got some detectable contact pressure, I would say they're OK.

Thanks Kevin, the mark was on the case and on #8 to know how far forward the bearing should be to align with the dowel pin.

The assembly lube is really sticky. Brad Penn.

Decided I needed a little help. Didn't want to reseal case for a 4th time. Called up my buddies at Zim's and asked Wayne if I could bring my stuff down there and have Darren, the lead Porsche Tech supervise. He said sure. Took all my stuff, case halves with yoke attached, crank assembly, tools, sealants, wipes, lacquer thinner and gloves down to the shop. Set-up and chatted with Darren first thing on Thursday morning. I was still nervous, but not as much as I had been. Decided to use more Threebond 1184 than I did the previous time. Everything went really smooth. Great just having an extra set of hands. (Really great having extra set of experienced hands.) We worked out who would do which operation and after I cleaned everything for the hundred-and-first time. Started. Did everything in about 25 min.
It's been slow as all get out, but I think I am wanting to drag it out a little.
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very nice...great decision to ask for help...dont beat yourself up thinking you caved...if anything, you were/are being smart to do it correctly and get more experienced help when you sense you need it...carry on...you are making great progress...!! :-)

Haven't updated in a while. Haven't worked on car much lately. Other things more pressing take priority. But, took the day off Friday and decided to work on car. Last sent short block and associated parts to Ed Mullenix to let him complete assembly. I worked on painting engine bay and replacing needed parts.
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Short block delivered.

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Before

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After

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Before

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After

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Before

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After

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Detailed tunnel and replaced green return fuel line. Replaced vapor recovery small tubing.

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Oil tank ultrasonicly cleaned by Pacific Oil Cooler installed.

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Wheel well painted with base and clear coat. Oil lines installed.


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Thermostat rebuilt and flushed by Darren at Zims. Looks beautiful. Darren does great work. Darren also refurbed the oil lines.


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Supply and return lines installed. The return line was repaired. I painted both lines and flushed with mineral spirits.

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Oil trombone loop. Cleaned and flushed and installed.

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First time car has seen daylight in 18 months. Really dusty. Can't wait to get fuchs refurbed. The fake Cup I's are really heavy. The Marine there is Steve with Two Bit Tow. Great guy and they are real reasonable and have a lot of experience with Porsches. (For all you guys in the D/FW area)

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Engine getting closer.

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Forgot to get a picture of front of engine here. With all the plated hardware at crossbar it really looked great.

Did have some unexpected expenses. Ed cleaned and tested all the injectors and recommended replacement. That hurt.

awesome job mitch...now try to keep the pace going so you can complete the car & get her on the road at your earliest convenience...looks great...bob

Thanks Bob,
Finally, engine has been reacquainted with the chassis. 1 year to the day. Still not calm yet. Not until all break-in is done and I'm sure there won't be a wiped a cam lobe or spun bearing. (Man, when does that anxiety stop?) Just drove it briefly on Saturday when I picked it up. Had a sick kid at home so didn't really feel like celebrating and couldn't drive it home from Ed's shop because I was working all day Saturday. Had a flat bed (Steve) come and get it. Ed drove it a couple of days after initial start-up and break in. No strange noises. Good oil pressure and no leaks...yet. So far, it looks like I may have done a good job on the case sealing. (knock on wood). Going to do something Friday I haven't done since buying it. Wash it. Probably put 50 or so miles on it to get to a 100 varying the RPM's and change the oil again.
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