patiemce & persistance ALWAYS PREVAILS...! another example of such, John...!! Break her in well and you will be gtg for a long time...

Good update John! Be positive, as it looks like you did a fantastic job cleaning things up & rebuilding. If it ain't leaking and mechanic gives it a thumbs up, get in & drive and enjoy it! :D

Thanks Kevin. I certainly think of all the people I owe a beer to for all the help I got, you're definitely near the top of that list.
Ed, my mechanic is super old school. Sometimes that makes me feel comfortable and sometimes it doesn't. His break in methods are different from the conventional wisdom I've read. But, he is a 40 year Porsche mechanic.

Looking really nice. Very neat work.

Meaning what?

He's a firm believer in non - detergent 30w oil and a Zinc break in additive for break in. I've been concerned about ring seating since I'm re ringing alusil cylinders from the beginning. He hasn't been concerned at all about the rings seating. He advised I didn't need to change the initial start - up oil until 1k. I wanted to change it after 1st 20 minutes. Only got about 40 miles on it. So I may take it out to get it warmed up and change oil and filter. He was real adamant about using non detergent 30w for 1st 1k if I did change it.

That's actually not that unconventional.

Just another 3.0 rebuild
 

Straight mineral oil is what you should run.

The ole guy knows his sheit

So where are you thinking of sending your Fuchs? I saw Magnus Walkers blog on refinishing and I was thinking of giving it a try

I think it was the not changing it until 1k miles that concerned me most.
@Gear Down, not sure yet, probably some kind of diy since my wife has barred me from check book for a while.

Seems like a pretty conventional guy to me. I thought you were going to say he was suggesting a "hard break in" or other such nonsense.

Nah, he actually advised not to rev it over 4k until the first 1k has been reached. Then he advised to do first oil and filter change and valve adjustment.

Where I had expressed concern was when he advised not to change oil until 1k. Everything I had read said change oil after 1st 20 minutes of run time for cam break in. Then run to 100 miles and change again. He said "you can spend the money if you want, but it's not necessary. "

That's good advice there because the 30W does not have the shear strength to establish a suitable oil film thickness for large bearing clearances. The air cooled engines are considered to have somewhat large bearing clearances, so at higher rpms you need the 15W40 like Rotella, Delo, Swepco or typical 20W50

Hey there!

Did you DIY paint that engine bay or have someone professionally spray it?

Look forward to hearing.

Regards,
Paul

@ Paul. I painted it. There is thread in the paint and body section that is more detailed called "First time using auto paint". I had a local shop mix up the paint code and used a 33 gal Sears compressor with an lvlp gun with filter and regulator at the gun. If I had to do it over I would've taken a paint sample to the shop for better accuracy in the paint match, since the body paint has aged and the new paint looks slightly redder under fluorescent lights.

For the fan shroud I used the Kylon Fusion in the tomato red after doing some fiber glass repair.

chime

Darn. I guess my dream of a leak free motor will not be realized just yet. After about a hundred miles noticed a small drip at lower most edge of cam tower corners at #3 & #6. Thought maybe it was rocker shafts. Took down to Mayo's. Nope. Leaking at cam tower to head seal. Chris said just a very slight seep. That blows. Guess I'll live with it for now and drop it sometime in future to pull cam towers.

I would leave it as is. I've heard that the cam towers can "twist" with age and that's why they leak upon reinstallation. So if you take off the towers I would recommend having them decked/surfaced to be nice & flat.

Or you could try retorquing the cam tower now that its gotten some heat cycling in it. It's just a gravity leak since it's not in an area of oil pressure if that make you feel any better? Being around the exhaust system those types of leaks can sometimes "fix themselves" by the cooking of the residual oil. But I don't blame you for being disappointed. Nobody likes a leak and also not one that can drip on the exhaust & mess up the nice paint work you did on the exchangers.

Look at the bright side. The engine is WAY better now than it was before! :D

Thanks Kevin. Definitely it's better. I learned a lot. I'll fix it down the road sometime. Techs at Mayo's had same advice. Not to worry about it and just drive it and clean it.

Mitch1, how did you get your aluminum parts so clean and with no visible black oxide.? Are they in natural finish or did you painted some of the components? Please share your engine clean and finish procedure. The result was amazing, even the engine power area looks, brand new, mine is all dull and with an dirty off-white shade.

Thnaks Ivan

Thanks. Can't take all the credit though. The case was hot tanked at Ollie's. If I had to do it over I would've had them tumble it to. Most of all of my cleaning was done with small stainless steel and brass brushes from Harbor Freight and lacquer thinner with a good dose of brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Used Kim wipes and industrial q tips I got at Northern Tool a lot as well.
On a side note. I spoke with Tom Petrushka at Mayo's Performance at length about engine rebuilding and common issues with rebuilds. He advised about the leak between the heads and cam towers was something he's dealt with before. His answer was to heat the heads after bead blasting in an oven. He said the oil soaked into the aluminum is then heated and cooked out. I think it they would've sealed with Threebond. I'd never use aviation permatex after seeing how much it runs when hot. It plain looks bad too.

Work of art Mitch.

Goofing around with pics
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1418882332.jpg

before
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1418882499.jpg

after
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1418882913.jpg