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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northeast
Posts: 4,527
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patiemce & persistance ALWAYS PREVAILS...! another example of such, John...!! Break her in well and you will be gtg for a long time...
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I live for 911 tweaks... |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Good update John! Be positive, as it looks like you did a fantastic job cleaning things up & rebuilding. If it ain't leaking and mechanic gives it a thumbs up, get in & drive and enjoy it!
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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Thanks Kevin. I certainly think of all the people I owe a beer to for all the help I got, you're definitely near the top of that list.
Ed, my mechanic is super old school. Sometimes that makes me feel comfortable and sometimes it doesn't. His break in methods are different from the conventional wisdom I've read. But, he is a 40 year Porsche mechanic.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Looking really nice. Very neat work.
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Childhood dream car: Porsche 959 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Main Line, PA
Posts: 1,226
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Quote:
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1985 911 3.2 Carrera Coupe - Constant Project - 2550lbs 2005 E46 M3- Daily Beater - 3350lbs |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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He's a firm believer in non - detergent 30w oil and a Zinc break in additive for break in. I've been concerned about ring seating since I'm re ringing alusil cylinders from the beginning. He hasn't been concerned at all about the rings seating. He advised I didn't need to change the initial start - up oil until 1k. I wanted to change it after 1st 20 minutes. Only got about 40 miles on it. So I may take it out to get it warmed up and change oil and filter. He was real adamant about using non detergent 30w for 1st 1k if I did change it.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Registered
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That's actually not that unconventional.
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Tell it like it is or don't tell it at all. |
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abit off center
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Just another 3.0 rebuild
Straight mineral oil is what you should run.
The ole guy knows his sheit
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NE OH where owning a boat a plane or a convertible makes no sense. I'm 2 for 3
Posts: 3
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So where are you thinking of sending your Fuchs? I saw Magnus Walkers blog on refinishing and I was thinking of giving it a try
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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I think it was the not changing it until 1k miles that concerned me most.
@Gear Down, not sure yet, probably some kind of diy since my wife has barred me from check book for a while.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Main Line, PA
Posts: 1,226
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Seems like a pretty conventional guy to me. I thought you were going to say he was suggesting a "hard break in" or other such nonsense.
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1985 911 3.2 Carrera Coupe - Constant Project - 2550lbs 2005 E46 M3- Daily Beater - 3350lbs |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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Nah, he actually advised not to rev it over 4k until the first 1k has been reached. Then he advised to do first oil and filter change and valve adjustment.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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Where I had expressed concern was when he advised not to change oil until 1k. Everything I had read said change oil after 1st 20 minutes of run time for cam break in. Then run to 100 miles and change again. He said "you can spend the money if you want, but it's not necessary. "
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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That's good advice there because the 30W does not have the shear strength to establish a suitable oil film thickness for large bearing clearances. The air cooled engines are considered to have somewhat large bearing clearances, so at higher rpms you need the 15W40 like Rotella, Delo, Swepco or typical 20W50
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Quote:
Did you DIY paint that engine bay or have someone professionally spray it? Look forward to hearing. Regards, Paul
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03' Audi RS6; 16' 328i xDrive Touring; 13' X3 mSport, 91' e30 M52 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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@ Paul. I painted it. There is thread in the paint and body section that is more detailed called "First time using auto paint". I had a local shop mix up the paint code and used a 33 gal Sears compressor with an lvlp gun with filter and regulator at the gun. If I had to do it over I would've taken a paint sample to the shop for better accuracy in the paint match, since the body paint has aged and the new paint looks slightly redder under fluorescent lights.
For the fan shroud I used the Kylon Fusion in the tomato red after doing some fiber glass repair.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New York.NY
Posts: 345
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chime
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pca 30 year member,1977 porsche turbo body targa 56 vw ragtop oval 01 harley sportster 18 Chevy Colorado diesel BIG RED Firetruck and assorted v-dub ,porsche parts hoarder..LoL |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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Darn. I guess my dream of a leak free motor will not be realized just yet. After about a hundred miles noticed a small drip at lower most edge of cam tower corners at #3 & #6. Thought maybe it was rocker shafts. Took down to Mayo's. Nope. Leaking at cam tower to head seal. Chris said just a very slight seep. That blows. Guess I'll live with it for now and drop it sometime in future to pull cam towers.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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I would leave it as is. I've heard that the cam towers can "twist" with age and that's why they leak upon reinstallation. So if you take off the towers I would recommend having them decked/surfaced to be nice & flat.
Or you could try retorquing the cam tower now that its gotten some heat cycling in it. It's just a gravity leak since it's not in an area of oil pressure if that make you feel any better? Being around the exhaust system those types of leaks can sometimes "fix themselves" by the cooking of the residual oil. But I don't blame you for being disappointed. Nobody likes a leak and also not one that can drip on the exhaust & mess up the nice paint work you did on the exchangers. Look at the bright side. The engine is WAY better now than it was before! ![]()
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 214
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Thanks Kevin. Definitely it's better. I learned a lot. I'll fix it down the road sometime. Techs at Mayo's had same advice. Not to worry about it and just drive it and clean it.
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John "Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage |
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