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patiemce & persistance ALWAYS PREVAILS...! another example of such, John...!! Break her in well and you will be gtg for a long time...

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Old 06-03-2014, 05:12 AM
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Good update John! Be positive, as it looks like you did a fantastic job cleaning things up & rebuilding. If it ain't leaking and mechanic gives it a thumbs up, get in & drive and enjoy it!
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:56 AM
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Thanks Kevin. I certainly think of all the people I owe a beer to for all the help I got, you're definitely near the top of that list.
Ed, my mechanic is super old school. Sometimes that makes me feel comfortable and sometimes it doesn't. His break in methods are different from the conventional wisdom I've read. But, he is a 40 year Porsche mechanic.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:29 PM
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Looking really nice. Very neat work.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch1 View Post
Thanks Kevin. I certainly think of all the people I owe a beer to for all the help I got, you're definitely near the top of that list.
Ed, my mechanic is super old school. Sometimes that makes me feel comfortable and sometimes it doesn't. His break in methods are different from the conventional wisdom I've read. But, he is a 40 year Porsche mechanic.
Meaning what?
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:50 AM
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He's a firm believer in non - detergent 30w oil and a Zinc break in additive for break in. I've been concerned about ring seating since I'm re ringing alusil cylinders from the beginning. He hasn't been concerned at all about the rings seating. He advised I didn't need to change the initial start - up oil until 1k. I wanted to change it after 1st 20 minutes. Only got about 40 miles on it. So I may take it out to get it warmed up and change oil and filter. He was real adamant about using non detergent 30w for 1st 1k if I did change it.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:12 AM
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That's actually not that unconventional.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:51 AM
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Just another 3.0 rebuild

Straight mineral oil is what you should run.

The ole guy knows his sheit
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:46 AM
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So where are you thinking of sending your Fuchs? I saw Magnus Walkers blog on refinishing and I was thinking of giving it a try
Old 06-04-2014, 09:00 AM
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I think it was the not changing it until 1k miles that concerned me most.
@Gear Down, not sure yet, probably some kind of diy since my wife has barred me from check book for a while.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:11 AM
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Seems like a pretty conventional guy to me. I thought you were going to say he was suggesting a "hard break in" or other such nonsense.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:42 AM
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Nah, he actually advised not to rev it over 4k until the first 1k has been reached. Then he advised to do first oil and filter change and valve adjustment.
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"Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage
Old 06-04-2014, 11:27 AM
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Where I had expressed concern was when he advised not to change oil until 1k. Everything I had read said change oil after 1st 20 minutes of run time for cam break in. Then run to 100 miles and change again. He said "you can spend the money if you want, but it's not necessary. "
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"Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage
Old 06-04-2014, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
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Nah, he actually advised not to rev it over 4k until the first 1k has been reached.
That's good advice there because the 30W does not have the shear strength to establish a suitable oil film thickness for large bearing clearances. The air cooled engines are considered to have somewhat large bearing clearances, so at higher rpms you need the 15W40 like Rotella, Delo, Swepco or typical 20W50
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:57 AM
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Oil tank ultrasonicly cleaned by Pacific Oil Cooler installed.


Wheel well painted with base and clear coat. Oil lines installed.



Thermostat rebuilt and flushed by Darren at Zims. Looks beautiful. Darren does great work. Darren also refurbed the oil lines.



Supply and return lines installed. The return line was repaired. I painted both lines and flushed with mineral spirits.


Oil trombone loop. Cleaned and flushed and installed.


First time car has seen daylight in 18 months. Really dusty. Can't wait to get fuchs refurbed. The fake Cup I's are really heavy. The Marine there is Steve with Two Bit Tow. Great guy and they are real reasonable and have a lot of experience with Porsches. (For all you guys in the D/FW area)


Engine getting closer.





Forgot to get a picture of front of engine here. With all the plated hardware at crossbar it really looked great.
Hey there!

Did you DIY paint that engine bay or have someone professionally spray it?

Look forward to hearing.

Regards,
Paul
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:34 PM
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@ Paul. I painted it. There is thread in the paint and body section that is more detailed called "First time using auto paint". I had a local shop mix up the paint code and used a 33 gal Sears compressor with an lvlp gun with filter and regulator at the gun. If I had to do it over I would've taken a paint sample to the shop for better accuracy in the paint match, since the body paint has aged and the new paint looks slightly redder under fluorescent lights.

For the fan shroud I used the Kylon Fusion in the tomato red after doing some fiber glass repair.
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"Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage
Old 06-06-2014, 04:53 PM
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:35 AM
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Darn. I guess my dream of a leak free motor will not be realized just yet. After about a hundred miles noticed a small drip at lower most edge of cam tower corners at #3 & #6. Thought maybe it was rocker shafts. Took down to Mayo's. Nope. Leaking at cam tower to head seal. Chris said just a very slight seep. That blows. Guess I'll live with it for now and drop it sometime in future to pull cam towers.
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"Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage
Old 11-06-2014, 07:33 AM
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I would leave it as is. I've heard that the cam towers can "twist" with age and that's why they leak upon reinstallation. So if you take off the towers I would recommend having them decked/surfaced to be nice & flat.

Or you could try retorquing the cam tower now that its gotten some heat cycling in it. It's just a gravity leak since it's not in an area of oil pressure if that make you feel any better? Being around the exhaust system those types of leaks can sometimes "fix themselves" by the cooking of the residual oil. But I don't blame you for being disappointed. Nobody likes a leak and also not one that can drip on the exhaust & mess up the nice paint work you did on the exchangers.

Look at the bright side. The engine is WAY better now than it was before!
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:32 AM
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Thanks Kevin. Definitely it's better. I learned a lot. I'll fix it down the road sometime. Techs at Mayo's had same advice. Not to worry about it and just drive it and clean it.

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"Build a man a fire and he's warm for the rest of the day. Set a man on fire and he's warm for the rest of his life". -internet sage
Old 11-06-2014, 09:47 AM
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