making progress measured everything and looks good. a good cleaning and they will be ready to go back. I am still painting motor tin and other parts.

next step is to pull bottom head studs and install new ones. clean more on block and then start putting it all back.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426189.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426236.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426263.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426300.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426326.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426355.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426379.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426404.jpg

I am going to keep posting my build here hope on one minds. my son in Houston keeps up with my build here.....carl

Carl, I am living in a parallel universe to you. I just bought an 82 SC with 183k miles, and the engine was already removed and disassembled to the same extent as yours to address broken studs....I bought it as something of a kit. I am also wondering about my Alusil cylinders, wondering if I can re-ring or need to do something more substantive. My Alusils have more marks in them than yours and one was scratched as a result of poor packing when the car was ready to be moved. I need a qualified person to give me an opinion. In the meantime, please keep sharing your experience. Best wishes for a quiet and smoke free engine, John in CT.

Looking good. Keep the pictures coming!

You're changing all the studs, right? Replace them with steel parts, not Dilavar.

The Cap'n

yes I am replacing all the bottom head studs with steel. I just got MAP gas for heating things up. next week I should get my snap on stud remover.

I spent today cleaning up the pistons. the carbon was tough. I used my dermal tool with a little cup wire wheel. it worked great. I only bought one. it will take 2 or 3 to get the job done. I polished the tops they look good. I will post pic next week.

once I get the studs replaced I can start building it back. while I wait I am sandblasting and painting.

john in CT. how are you doing on your build? a lot of people believe you can re-ring. do a search. there is a place you can send them and they will re-work them. I will try to find the link and post it. my motor only had 50k miles so I pulled them apart measured them and will put them back as they were.

john in CT. look here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/137346-re-ring-alusils.html

hope this helps....carl

Only the lower studs? Why?

The Cap'n

New rings are cheap. Why not just replace them. Old ones have 50k miles on them. New ones will last 50k miles longer. Peace of mind in my opinion.

Chris

Concur on replacing with new rings...
Are your upper studs already steel?

upper studs are steel and in good shape.

I thought I might get the old rings to seat better. it is my understanding that re-ringing is a crap shoot. everything checks out good.....carl

I recently discoved the same situation in my '87; after tearing down the engine to replace broken (lower) studs, I find the uppers are steel and look nearly new...does anyone know if this was a common thing to do, that is, replace only the upper head studs with steel? :confused:

The SC and 3.2 engines were built at the factory with steel studs for the uppers and Dilivar for the lowers.

Most high mileage SC and 3.2 engines have one or more broken lower studs while the steel uppers are fine.

That makes absolutely no sense to me, that they'd come from the factory with steel on top and Dilivar on the lowers...i figured they'd be equipped with Dilivar all around. Thank God for small favors.

The turbos and 3.6 have dilivars all around.
Bruce

Well, I'll be...

Thanks, Bruce.

my understanding is that the expansion rate is closer to what the cylinder and heads expand at. although it seems that they would use the same on top and bottom.

my top are steel and looking good. bottom look good but had one broke one. I am replacing them with factory steel ones.

I started this rebuild just to fix head studs and chain tensioners. now I have new heads, cleaned and painted stuff. it just goes on and on.

next week put p&cs together.

oh.... I cleaned the carbon off the pistons with a dremil tool and a little wire cup wheel ( 3 bucks) some brake cleaner . it worked great. took some time but not hard at all. I will post pic. this weekend.....carl

Thanks, Carl...good stuff.

I have the same situation here, good steel on top and broken Dilivar (6) on the lowers. Thus far though, everything, save the Dilivar studs, looks pristine.

I do have some carbon to remove from the piston tops, do you have any more details on the "wire cup"?

Don't apply any wire to the pistons. That removes metal. Soak in a bucket of carb cleaner, then rinse. Low pressure glass beading is also an option.

Then inspect. If ring side clearances, pin and bores are good, proceed with assembly. If you replace the rings, prep the cylinders more thoroughly (remove any ridge from the cyl. top, prep cyl. with Scotchbrite pad - see rering threads).

Sherwood

Thanks, Sherwood...fears of applying metal wire wheel to the piston tops was the reason for my question...my fear was more of leaving behind metal, from the wheel but, your point is valid and appreciated.

If the carburetor cleaner soak doesn't quite dissolve the deposits, what would you recommend? Scotch Brite pad?

Scotch Brite too. Fresh carb cleaner is usually a potent carbon softener. Also glass bead blast as I suggested, but minimal exposure to the ring lands.

Sherwood