If you bead blast the crowns of the pistons to clean them you can wrap the sides of the pistons with 2" masking tape to protect them while doing it.
Soda blasting is another good cleaning option and it rinses off with water leaving nothing behind.

How is it coming along any updates?

I have been under the weather. wife is getting ready for yard sale. I hope to get the lower head studs out this week. after that it goes back together. can't wait.

got my lower head studs out. a little heat and the snap on tool. now on to the re-build.;););)....carl

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416109467.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416109498.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416109528.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416109599.jpg

It's looking good. What did you use to re-finish fan? Paint? Powder coated?

For those following this thread, there are several reasons to use the old ring. These are Alusil cylinder, they have a reputation for not seating new rings. New rings that I've bought have bigger end gaps than the old rings (ie they are "worn out" more than the old rings). Preping cylinders for new ring is a more involved process than using the old rings. Ther is also some evidence that Alusil cylinders use different rings than Nickasil and those rings are hard to come by.

-Andy

Alusil cylinders do indeed use a different set of rings. You can get them from Brumos Part Number 930-103-986-01. I purchased them after having a discussion with Howard Freeman.

Nice post carl

refinished fan with paint.

update: I replaced the lower head studs. waiting for lock tight to set up. tomorrow I will mount # 1 p&c and head to check clearance. I will use the solder method. once that is done I will send for the right size barrel shim. then the build will really start.

can't wait.....carl

Great progress!

well... I was going to start my re-build today but, went to the auto parts place where I live to get the lubes,gasket sealer and stuff. they had none of the brands people here recommend. so I ordered them on line. maybe next week. I want to start soooo bad.

pistons are ready I will check my deck height and order the right barrel shim. heads were cut .008 inches I hope one .50mm will work. as I start I will take good pictures..........carl


P.S. if I heat the top of the pistons will the wrist pin go in easer? also the breather cap what is the tork on the nuts. can not find that in my books?

You have the pistons and pins ready to go? If so, trial fit them on the bench. Freezing the pins should do it, but if you can also heat the pistons in hot water. Lube the pin and try it.

Breather cap nuts? I can't picture it. Perhaps different terminology. If they're 6mm (10mm hex), refer to any torque chart for metric fasteners. If you're rebuilding a 911 engine, esp. for the 1st time, you should get a reference book. There are several; all with basic torque charts. Like others have done, you can ask here, but you'll also receive different answers, some contradictory. Pick and choose which one you like?

Sherwood

Wrist pins on Porsches are not a tight fit. I've never had to do more than tap them in or out. Freezing or heating or both are not needed. And shouldn't be needed, either. Just complicates things.

It also depends on the pin-to-rod "free-floating" fit.

Sherwood

I've had my share of tight pins, but never anything than a little more than a tappity tap with a soft faced mallet and/or a soft drift didn't take care of. You certainly should not need a press like some of the V8 stuff out there. Just some taps (maybe a medium tap here or there) to get things moving along. Freezing the pins may help, but make sure to use plenty of assembly lube.
The pins slide easily in the rod by itself, right?

just do as Lapkritis tells you.

You mean to reuse the existing piston rings? Hmmm.