Rookie 3.0 rebuild - Page 2

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Numbered the cylinders after pulling them out

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Ok, here is what I have on the left side. I think I have a good shot at getting these out.

The oil cooler will have to come off to give me some room to work.

mreid · 06-21-2014, 02:01 PM

Sorry, I meant the number on the end of the cam.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Ok, so here are some questions. Again, assuming that this is indeed a 65,000 mile engine I believe I can reuse most of the parts. I am going to update to 964 cams since they are out. Not looking for a race motor just a few extra HP.

Should install new rings?

I was planning to pull the heads apart, clean and reassemble. Should I do anything else to them?

Should I crack the case and reseal it? I don't think it was leaking or if it was it wasn't bad. I just keep thinking that I have already gone this far so why not?

What else should I look at or do?

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

The cam number is 930 14808

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

The number on the shaft of the cam is 930 105 1487 R

zelrik911 · zelrik911's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amstaff

The cam number is 930 14808

TIM
Many thanks for the great Photos, as I know they will help when I replace my 3.0L headstuds.

I am also thinking about 964 cams so I will be watching your rebuild with special interest.
Peter in Melb.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Thanks Peter, I will post lots of mistakes so hopefully folks can avoid them when they take a crack at rebuilding theirs.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Looking closely at the heads and cylinders and they look nice. Just looking at 4, 5 and 6 the cylinders ridge ( where the rings don't reach the top of the cylinder) is very light. Not even enough to feel as you slid your finger nail up the cylinder. Also the heads are pretty clean inside and the valves have minimal to no carbon buildup.

I am not familiar with Porsche cylinder ridges but to me it would indicate that this is indeed a low milage engine.

Would anyone agree or disagree?

Flat6pac · 06-21-2014, 05:46 PM

You dont get ring ridges on the 911 cylinders.
Bruce

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Back to my questions. Again, assuming that this is indeed a 65,000 mile engine I believe I can reuse most of the parts. I am going to update to 964 cams since they are out. Not looking for a race motor just a few extra HP.

Should install new rings?

I was planning to pull the heads apart, clean and reassemble. Should I do anything else to them?

Should I crack the case and reseal it? I don't think it was leaking or if it was it wasn't bad. I just keep thinking that I have already gone this far so why not?

What else should I look at or do?

RedCoupe · 06-22-2014, 06:09 AM

You can remove the rods without splitting the case. Why not remove them, and that will give you an opportunity to examine the rod bearings and the crankshaft journals. If everything looks perfect, you may not feel the need to go any further. On the other hand, if you see wear, you may want to go ahead and split the case.

zelrik911 · zelrik911's Garage

A few extra things to consider:
Get the heads inspected, the 3.2L motors have a reputation for wear in the soft valve guides, the 3.0L motors not so much - but its easier to fix up any issues now.

If you dont have oil fed timing chain tensioners, think about getting them or at least get the little safety locks which fit on the spring tensioners. These hold the pressure pin up if the internal springs fail.

If re-ringing, there is a technique for lightly scrubbing the Alusil bores of your cylinders (do not hone) & there are heaps of threads about it.

Regarding splitting the case - you will find lots of threads on this too. Do all the conrod bearings feel the same (especially #5 )? If the motor had no evidence of leaking at the front & rear seals, I would be tempted to leave it be. Leaking after a crankcase rebuilt seems to be a common complaint. But let the experienced people advise you on this.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

After reading a lot on the Alusil cylinders I am opting not to change the rings. I had no smoke and no real oil use so I am just going to clean the cylinders up and reinstall with the old rings

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

Pulled the right side today and have a few studs broken off kind of close but I feel like I can get the out

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

These are the only two on the right hand side.

I am going to pull the ones not broken first and then attend to the smaller ones. That should give me more room to work on the shorties.

Amstaff · Amstaff's Garage

I poked a shop towel over the stud to catch any metal shavings that might come off while extracting the stud.

Then I selected a small pipe wrench and they unscrew without a whole lot of trouble. The reason that I selected a small pipe wrench is that I can get a feel for how tight it is. If it isn't coming loose I will stop and apply heat. So far 8 studs out and no problems.

Once out I CAREFULLY pull the towel off and wipe the hole off. Once that side is done I will vacuum all of the holes out thoroughly.

Speed Buggy · Speed Buggy's Garage

Thanks for the pics. My son and I used that kind of magnet to pull a wrist pin cir clip out of the motor. We covered all the holes but it still managed to sneak past the Saran Wrap. Doh!
I'm getting ready to install the heads and cam towers. Cheers.

Speed Buggy · Speed Buggy's Garage

Thanks for the pics. I took pics and marked all if the tin but I sandblasted the marks off and painted the tin. I used this as a quick reference vs. going to my pics.

Speed Buggy · Speed Buggy's Garage

If you send your cylinders out to be cleaned, mark them more permanently. The shop may "clean away" your markings. Ask me how I know. Doh!