Rookie 3.0 rebuild

[Amstaff]

So I have all of them out that I could screw out with a pipe wrench. Only one that wasn't broken is still in there. I will apply some heat and try to remove it tomorrow, then on to the broken ones.

One side


And the other

[jpnovak]

You will have fun with that lower, rear on Cyl2.

Do you have a welder? Try to TIG a bolt to it and then back it out. Dilvar is NO FUN to drill out. Lots of cussing involved.

Something like this.
Dilvar Studs - almost nightmare of replacement

[Amstaff]

Ok, got the last full bolt out with some heat. Could have sworn that I was going to twist it in half and snap it but I kept the heat to it and it finally broke loose. It squeaked loudly all the way out but I WON!!

Maybe tomorrow I will work on the six broken bolts. I am sure it will not be a walk in the park.

I will definitely bust out the welder for several of the broken studs.

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, keep them coming.

[zelrik911]

Fingers crossed for you with the broken studs!!!

Save one of the 'good' ones to use as a thread chaser, by cutting a vertical slot down its threads. Dont use a Tap as lots of old posts complain about Taps eating away some case thread resulting in new studs being wobbly in the case.

What type of new stud are you going to use?

[Amstaff]

I will probably go with either ARP or the Raceware. I need to do a little more homework before making a decision.

[Amstaff]

Any preferences?

[Amstaff]

So welded a nut onto the two studs that were short and I think the heat from the welder was a huge help because they came out without too much effort.



Then onto the long ones. I had a greet idea, why not slip some old lug nuts over the shaft until I get to the top of the stud and then weld a nut to the end... Smart huh?

Didn't work! I had to use the good old pipe wrench to get the rest out.


So now they are all out!

[Amstaff]

Now my fear

While welding stuff is flying everywhere. Using a pipe wrench scraped a lot of material from the threads. I would bet that although I plugged holes, some of that stuff made its way into the block. Is there a way to flush it out? Maybe spray brake cleaner or simple green into it with a pressure sprayer?

I am still debating splitting the case so I won't be hurt if that is the recommendation of the experts.

[zelrik911]

Great job & very satisfying to get all the broken studs out, without too much drama.

Then onto the long ones. I had a greet idea, why not slip some old lug nuts over the shaft until I get to the top of the stud and then weld a nut to the end... Smart huh?

Didn't work! I had to use the good old pipe wrench to get the rest out.

My lesson learnt from this is that HEAT is the key. I suppose the long one - with the Lug Nuts - had the heat applied too far up the stud to brake up the 'glue' in the case

Now I must go into my garage and find my old pipe wrench!!!!!

[Amstaff]

Although a pipe wrench may seem a bit more of a caveman's way of extracting the studs compared to some of the stud removal tools that I have seem people use.... It works. I only had to apply heat to one of the studs.

[lindy 911]

Head stud choice is easy: Supertec

[Lapkritis]

Originally Posted by Amstaff

Now my fear

While welding stuff is flying everywhere. Using a pipe wrench scraped a lot of material from the threads. I would bet that although I plugged holes, some of that stuff made its way into the block. Is there a way to flush it out? Maybe spray brake cleaner or simple green into it with a pressure sprayer?

I am still debating splitting the case so I won't be hurt if that is the recommendation of the experts.

I would recommend you split. The engine is filthy and you really don't want the cost of tuition for a failed bearing. I suspect as you do that there will be at least some gunk that found a way in. Hindsight is 20/20 but if there is a next time then clean the engine thoroughly before opening the valve covers/breathers. Pressure washer, WD40, carb/brake clean/mineral spirits/3 rolls of paper towels, a few different brush types and scrapers... ideally, you shouldn't be able to find a single grain of sand on the engine before you start tearing into it.

You can use solo cups to have a beer and also to cover the cylinder holes in the case even with the rods in place (keeps debris and parts from falling in) and paper towels to fill the smaller orifices.

As for head studs - I would second the motion for Supertec although many options are viable. I like the ARP for the easy start top, sanitary packaging and the work space mat that comes in the box.

[Amstaff]

Thanks for the replies.

I think I am going to bite the bullet and split the case. The motor is for my 1970 T and I only want to mess with this engine one time and then be done. It would be frustrating to put it together just to see a bearing fail because there was a piece of trash in it.

I will definitely be looking for some assistance on putting it back together. Maybe a local Pelican can stop by or I will bring it to someone for help once the time comes to mate the two halves.

Well, I guess on to part II

[Amstaff]

Had a heck of a time splitting the case. I forgot to remove this piece!


Pulled the remaining pistons



Them popped it apart



Next step is new rod and main bearings.

[zelrik911]

That little cover that you broke is notorious for leaking ( as are the crank seals above it!).
When you get a replacement one, make sure it is dead flat before installing it.

You are now going to have a lot of reading/research on case sealing choices.

Continue to take lots of photos; I will be interested to see your findings on bearing & crank wear: if any - as its a 3.0L.

Peter in Melb.

[Amstaff]

Luckily I didn't break that cover. I made sure not to put too much pressure on the engine as I was separating the block halves. When it didn't come apart with light prying I looked closely for hidden bolts or other obstructions.

[ozracer]

Great thread really enjoying this keep up the good work

[Amstaff]

Well, looks like it was a good thing that I split the case. Lots of stuff hanging around the bottom.

[Amstaff]

Looks like original bearings 930.132.02 STD bearings marked 1981.

The look good but after 33 years of service I am going to retire them for a new set.

[Wew]

Nice work tom.

I am right behind you in my rebuild. Am on vacation but of course staying current and learning.
Getting ready for the engine split myself. I am also concerned about being sure the case does not leak after assembly. If I come across the "gold" standard for preventing leaks I will be sure and share.
Gary