Any opinions of Brad Penn Assembly Lube?

[gtc]

Does anyone have an opinion regarding the Brad Penn assembly lube?
I was browsing their catalog recently and noticed it. My thoughts were that if I'm using their 30 weight break in oil, I might as well use their assembly lube also.
I did see one thread here that mentions it, but only so far as to say that it's sticky.

Thanks,
Graham

[Lapkritis]

For years I only used plain motor oil for assembly lube. I've also used any off the shelf and still never an issue.

-Redline Assembly Lube
-Permatex UltraSlick Red
-Lucas Oil Assembly Lube
-Royal Purple Max-Tuff
-Comp Camps pro lube

It all works about the same I've found. Brad Penn probably no different.

[earossi]

I am looking for a Bosch ECU for my 1998 993. The Bosch P/N is 02 61 204 649. I've posted over in the 911 Parts F/S forum, but thought that I would cast the net over here where the engine builders hang out.

[RedCoupe]

Earossi, you stumbled into a thread about assembly lube. How about starting a separate thread if you want some responses?

[RedCoupe]

As far as assembly lube goes, like Lap I had a lot of success with plain engine oil on engine bearings, gears, timing chains, etc. But, I always used the special cam lube on cam lobes and the valve gear. I think most of today's assembly lubes have lots of ZDDP so should be good for most anything, and I'm sure that BP is as good as any.

[earossi]

Originally Posted by RedCoupe

Earossi, you stumbled into a thread about assembly lube. How about starting a separate thread if you want some responses?

My apologies. An unintended mistake on my part.

[Walt Fricke]

I've used Torco assembly lube based on advice from an engine builder 20 years ago. You want one which is pretty sticky, so it stays put more or less until you start the motor. This seems to do that, but I'm with those who suspect not much real difference.

Torco comes in a sort of semi-squirt bottle (a short spout folds out from the cap), which makes it good for dribbling lube on rocker oil holes and sides, and on rocker faces/cam lobes on routine reassembly. Maybe others do also, and it isn't hard to find a suitable bottle if the container it comes in isn't quite suitable. I've stuck with the cam maker's recommendations when installing a new cam

[gtc]

Thanks for the input.

[tharbert]

In Bruce Anderson's engine assembly workbook, he mentioned he made his own assembly lube from moly powder and engine oil. I have a couple of the bottles below of the powder just for this. IIRC, he advised using either motor oil or the mixture in different places.

[911pcars]

If you can find the original blend, GM's EOS was commonly used for this purpose. However, because it was marketed as a lube supplement, the amount of zinc and phosphorous exceeded current lube oil specs. Because of that they relabled EOS as an "assembly lube". The new number is 88862587.

I think the current product might be okay, but according to engine builders, so are equivalent products from Crane, Torco, etc. I'd direct you to the massive oil thread here on PParts, but that might cause you to hurt yourself to read the whole thing.

Sherwood

[gtc]

Just an update:
I used the Brad Penn, and while nice and sticky, it slowly runs over time.
I would choose a grease next time to avoid having to clean up the drips as I seal up the different parts of the motor.

[Lapkritis]

Hmm... grease can be problematic in preventing proper oil wash on bearing surfaces. Might be worthwhile to do a "pickle race" test with various assembly lubes. Perhaps BP is a bit more runny than the average.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Lapkritis

Hmm... grease can be problematic in preventing proper oil wash on bearing surfaces. Might be worthwhile to do a "pickle race" test with various assembly lubes. Perhaps BP is a bit more runny than the average.

Yup. High viscosity oil (aka grease) doesn't flow into tight oil spaces too well (insert bearing clearance is typically 0.0015" - 0.003"), esp. in a cold engine. With the engine/oil tank filled, crank the engine w/o spark plugs until you observe oil pressure via the gauge, then crank some more.

Sherwood

[gtc]

Christ, you guys will argue with anything, won't you?

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by gtc

Christ, you guys will argue with anything, won't you?

Post another topic and we'll try.

Anything wrong voicing an opinion? I really didn't notice the argument. Must have missed it while reading your gospel.

[DSPTurtle]

Permatex Ultra Slick works. And the green stuff by Lucas is good too. I prefer the Lucas because the green contrasts nicely with the red cam lube you get from Web Cam. Argue with that!

[gtc]

You're not pushing the assembly lube into the bearings, you're pushing it out of the bearings. Of course you would never use an assembly lube that won't dissolve in engine oil, and there appear to be plenty of engine assembly greases that fit this bill. Redline, Torco, etc.
For something that's not pressure fed, like rocker shafts or wristpins: yeah, i would probably still use a liquid lube.
If this were a V8 and we weren't flipping the motor over to work on it, the drips might not be an issue.

[Walt Fricke]

Torco (only assembly lube I have experience with, other than what cam grinders send with cams) will penetrate rocker shafts. I drip some into the lube holes, and on each side, as well as on the cam, then wiggle the rocker around. I do it as part of setting the lash. Wiggling seems to get the lube, thick though it is, in there. On the engine stand, of course, so I can have the side up. Eventually some Torco will ooze out and fall, but plenty is still left.

Doubtless other lubes behave about the same. I can't imagine ending up with bearings being dry when you finally fire it up.

[Jeff Alton]

As a Brad Penn dealer I have considered giving it a try. We have had good luck with Redline assembly lube and have used it countless times.

The thing to remember is you are trying to protect the motor up until it makes oil pressure on the first start (A couple of seconds). So in reality, probably any assembly lube or motor oil will likely work...