Henry, With all the mods you did to the case why did you stick with the old IMS rather than update for the bearing one. Measuring the end play on that oldie looks cool though as does the cover.

Henry, instructive thread on a great engine as others have said.

One question if I may. It looks in the early photos as if you've not installed the crankcase wire mesh screens. I assume this is deliberate (or they went in and the photos were just a mock up), and I'd like to know your reasoning for leaving them out. Is this something you do on all your rebuilds?

I have only rebuilt 2 911 engines, both stock, so I am a novice at best, and as a confession I noted the screen absence because I boxed up the last case and then spotted the screens on the bench, so had to reopen, clean, dismantle, fit, rebuild, reseal ...... Oops

Mick

No real benefit to the update bearing.There are shims used for adjusting the end play and they were not availble for many years. We now manufacture a shim assortment making end play adjustment easy.
Shim assortments are available from 911 Vintage Parts Ken @760-731-4911
info@911vintageparts.com

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437830933.jpg

The windage screens were designed to isolate the sump oil from the spinning crank reducing drag (parasitic loss) and oil foaming. There was a service bulletin back in the 70s suggesting the windage screens actually created foaming. Then around 71 the engines were equipped with piston squirters that deposited oil on top of the screens exacerbating the problem so they were deleted from all engines in the early 70s.

Thanks Henry - only ever dealt with early 70's and 60's engines so didn't know that - along with a lot else! So I infer you would actually remove them if you were rebuilding an early engine that originally had them fitted.

Mick

Henry,

This is exactly the kind of build that gets me going. What fantastic work. The "stock" DeMan rebuilt motor in my 914/6 "needs" a bump up to 2.8 one of these days.

What are you running for pistons and cylinders? I take it you are using high performance coatings at least on the pistons, anywhere else? How about cams, spec? Still on carbs as well? What hp are you looking at here?

I would love to twin plug mine, but I can't rationalize the cost vs the small increase in performance or am I wrong? It happens.

Pistons are JE (9.5:1) and cylinders are Mahle.
Main and rod bearings are dry film Moly as are the piston skirts.
Piston domes are ceramic thermal barrier.
Rockers are ground, rebushed with DU bushings, threads chased and the pad have dry film Moly as well before being cryogenically treated.
Cams are Mod "S".
46 mm Webers rebuilt in house
270 hp ? on street gas.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844202.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844218.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844230.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844409.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844427.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437844547.jpg

Lord help me ... here comes that drool again !

Henry, any objective testing/observations done on the increased wear resistance afforded by the dry film coatings for a street engine ?

Bill

Oh yes, exactly what my dream engine would have. Love the pics.

We've been using dry film lubricants for years with great reliabilty as you might expect.
What we didn't expect was the dyno results.
With dry film and our rockers we found 13hp on two separate 2.7 RS engines.
Both genuine RS engines produced more than 223 hp with no other modifications. These surprising results were a validation of our efforts to incorporate an old design with modern techniques.

Nice rockers BTW ;)

Thanks Henry,

Any changes to the recommended oil type used when one goes with the dry film ?

Still recommending the Delo 30W ?

Craig, you worked on those?

The entire rocker rebuild process is done in house at Supertec with the exception of the Cryo.
They are available for sale in sets either outright or exchange from 911 Vintage Parts.
info@911vintageparts.com or Ken @ 760-731-4911

Henry

Fantastic build as usual. Thanks for sharing. Put a kit of the plastic caps and plugs together so we can buy from you.

Henry

wonderful looking build! Im off to start something similar myself! excuse the stupid question, but what is that 4-blade fan on page 2?

This one?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_5862+11431272760.jpg

That is the alternator/fan MOUNT, not the fan. Those four blades are stators that adjust and balance the flow off the fan.

Henry,
Do you spray a moly coating on the parts? It looks from the rocker photos that I see a freshly bushed/ground rocker and then in the next photo, a dull finish from perhaps a spray coating? I've seen this used on cams to protect lobes during storage/transport/install/initial run-in.

Always enjoy seeing your projects and have learned a great deal from your contributions to the Pelican community. Thank you.

Cheers,
Chet

Here is the process we use:
We remove the old bushing
Black Oxide the rocker
Ream the bushing hole
Press in the new DU bushing and burnish
Surface the contact pad
Coat the contact pad with Moly dry film (TLML 2)
Treat the rocker to a Cryogenic conversion process
Clean adjuster threads with 8x1.0 forming tap.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1440778733.jpg

Henry,
Thank you for all your documentation!
What is the 3.0 oil pump flow mod you mention in the beginning of the thread?
Peter