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It's too bad that has to go in a car and get dirty. Noyce.:D
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I don't want to steal Henry's thunder but I believe the strut is more of an insurance policy to lessen vibration and keep those aluminum mounting ears intact at the base. Aluminum does fatigue and a lot of these parts have plenty of cycles on them by now.
____ Cool find Henry - thanks for sharing. Not sure why folks are voting this down as you won't likely see another any time soon. Quote:
About the CAD/CAD II/Zinc plating process - I was curious about your input on when and where to use it. I understand fastener coating technology has improved since these engines were built but from an appearance standpoint there is a desire for close to original as possible so the newer greenish coatings are out. The average DIY can get their hands on kits to do some CAD/Zinc coating in the garage which really adds a nice bling factor to a solid build. But like Lund accessories on a Chevy pickup, there must be a point when you've gone too far... when you've "Lunded out" as they used to say. I agree once you start on the visible hardware, it makes sense to have it all match. I noticed the threads weren't plated on the through bolts and the neck of one pictured doesn't appear to be coated either. Is there a reason to not coat the threads or has the coating worn through from pre-assembly activities such as checking bearing clearance? Quote:
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433435173.jpg |
Henry,
Am I correct in thinking you will have a closed oil system for the pump that is not connected to engine oiling system. I recall seeing that first on one of your builds. Really top shelf work by the way. Thanks for sharing. |
Thanks!
And BTW, great shot through the stacks!! |
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We discovered 20+ years ago that the engine oil would super-heat the pump. With the exception of a possible improvement on hot restart the heat had no other benefit. By isolating the pump we could insure the quality of the pump oil and isolate the engine from any possible fuel contamination of the oil. The engine runs a Supertec cold start device making the thermostat obsolete. Our cold start device is controlled by the driver via a small level next the the hand brake. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433444332.jpg If you choose to seal your pump it is important to remember that as the engine heats up, pressure will build inside the pump forcing the oil passed the seals and gaskets. To relieve this pressure we designed a neat little breather that double as a filler for pump oil. The breather is also a little filter. This breather will retrofit to any Bosch MFI pump. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433444522.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1433444551.jpg |
What a unique build. Thanks for sharing
Henry |
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Absolutely beautiful engine build.
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The best toy in the best Toy Store... Thanks for making us all crazy, Henry. You are an artist..
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very nice as usual henry...)) btw, who's headers & do you have a pic of the muffler you will be using...? I live for pics like this from henry...)))) just por-fect...
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Beautiful work!
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I'm certainly no expert, but just wondering if this could have possibly been an IROC motor? I think they were 3.0 RS-based cars. The uniqueness of it would sort of make sense. From what I have researched, Roger Penske bought most of the IROC cars when Porsche ceased support of the series after the inaugural season. He then resold them to various race teams. Maybe Brumos bought one? Anyway, just a thought.
And BTW, beautiful build. |
Fantastic stuff! I love the look of the finned lower valve covers.
Those Mahle pistons look to be really light. I see they were plunge-cut/milled under the crown all around the pin bosses Curious what size piston spray jets are used? Reason I ask is because I noticed the 964 oil pump. |
work of art
Henry
thanks for posting these photos, truly a modern masterpiece. |
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SC squirter for under 260hp Turbo squirter up to about 350 964 for 300 to 400 hp There is an over-sided 964 squirter that is appropriate for higher heat engines. |
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