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I used this.
I have some tick coming from the drivers side bank, but nothing you wouldn't expect from an air cooled engine. It's a little tight to get on some of the studs on the bottom of the engine, but it gives you a "no guess" reading on the true gap. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436875574.jpg |
The feelers are the .0025 and .0030. I just bought a set of feelers at Autozone that had those two on it for about $6.00. I haven't had any trouble using the standard feelers to do the backside valve adjustment.
BTW, the set you asked about from Amazon would be fine. You don't need 12" feelers to do the backside adjustment. |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441584375.jpg
Did another Valve adjust. Car now sounds great until fully warmed up. Tick remains when warmed up. |
It could be worn out bushings on a single rocker or two
Bruce |
I could not find a spec. on rocker play (in the axial direction). The was about 1mm movement on all of the exhaust rockers IIRC. I had to be careful to only "rock" them in the rotational direction. I ordered a real stethoscope, so I will be investigating further on Wednesday.
For the record, if you have a catalyst, it will be need to be removed for Cyl. 1 & 2 while using the Stomski tool. It is a breeze though... awesome. I was also happy to see that my "feel" for dragging the feeler blade had got me very close on most of the valves. Others though, were way off. Observing my last job (with the .004 gauge), I noticed that my tightest valve was .004". This should be useful information knowing that I -thought- I had a medium-high level of drag with the feeler. |
Really though it's not a huge deal... an "engine out" is planned for the winter to replace the aging fuel system. The "while you're in there" should be interesting to watch http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pc2.gif
d/dx Timing chain Fuel injectors Fan/alt rebuild Head machining Completion of A/C and CC delete surface rust repair of engine compartment sound pad replace etc... |
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