Did I screw up my Valve Adjustment?
 

I did a valve adjust and switched from delo 15w40 to VR1 20w50. I had a detectable-only-by-me tick that was bugging me because I had never heard another 3.2 tick like that. Well, now its worse. This is my second valve adjustment and I really don't want to believe that I f***ed it up.

I only spent all day on this... ugh http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/rlwhore.gif

https://youtu.be/r2HO2_kMMJ4

https://youtu.be/9eLH1EfY_9g

https://youtu.be/bSscG8ZaP3o

i can hear some stuff going on, its not terrible but i dont know what it sounded like before.
what i would do is switch to brad penn 20-50. get it on ebay. go back and redo the valve adjustment and have some spare feeler gauges. dont get hung up on the drag of the gauge when its between the valve stem and the rocker. remember the adjustment is
.004 +-.002. so when youre going for the final adjustment make it tight, it sounds like your being careful which is good but make them good and tight and they will shut up.
also what you could be hearing is worn valve guides, so after the tight adjustment there might be some clicking going on. that engine sounds good though i dont think you have anything to worry about

VR1 is fine as long as you dont have a cat on the car.

did it get worse as soon as you were done or did it get worse over time.

if it got worse as soon as you were done, do as above. as long as you can get the feeler in it is not too tight. you want some drag or for it to be tight fit. that is how you get them consistent.
when doing it, do not losen the lock nut all the way.
if lose- hold the adjuster and turn the nut just a little. turn both nut and adjuster CW using the angle of the slot as a gauge to how much it is turned.
if tight- turn both CCW then hold the adjuster and tighten the nut.

make small changes noting the angle of the slot. make 1/8 degree turns then check. when done rotate the crank several times and go back thru them.

you dotn need to drain the oil. only a little will come out.

It sounded really good until the idle settled out, no tick at all. Then the tick started.

I tightened them by leaving the gauge in while I tightened the adjusters. They were mainly too tight (could not get the feeler in).

The loosen/tighten thing I figured out eventually. Pretty much what I did.

I did a check run after with the gauge, had to adjust #5 an eight of a turn. The clapping seems to be coming from the drivers side though.

I developed a valve guide hypothesis as well, since it is worse than before I would guess it is not the source of the noise???

You're better than me..I can't even hear it.

https://youtu.be/ffeMlc-8zA0

Here's the before.

I don't have the S-Pipe check valve, same-same?

When you have a gap you will get a tick noise, setting valves tight will help reduce the noise, bad side is that when the valves and seats wear and they will, then the valves stay open. Not good when this happens, go 4 + 2 and Learn to like the tick, when it quits, you know it's time to run them again.

I can hear it. One is a smidge loose or there's a bad elephants foot. Consider using a stethoscope to isolate and save time?

My understanding is that a larger spacing = shorter valve open time and shorter valve travel (although would be a very small difference in the case of .004).

I know that .006 is "within tolerance", but are you saying that this is better than .002?

Doublebuffle, I just went through this. Below is the thread with some video for comparison if the helps you. Your overhead video sounded good to me. The vid of the exhaust valves does sound a bit noisy, but I am no expert and that is why I asked for help on P. It is a lot of work I know, but if you are going to second guess yourself, you might be better off doing it again for your own piece of mind. Good luck.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/873621-valve-engine-sound-what-do-you-think.html

The closer you are to zero the closer you are to your valves not closing all the way, short answer, yes.

Big progress.

I did half of the valve adjust over again, only the six intake valves. Reasons for only those:

1. Harder than exhaust and mostly likely that i screwed them up.
2. The idea of spending a lot of time with the car half in the air was not appealing to me... (alone and very 'cautious' in my one car garage).

It sounds much better, we are back to detectable-only-by-me tick which of course; could easily be the expected valve guide wear.

The rockers are pretty tight. We are in "I can manage to get the feeler gauge in" territory.

I imagine that engine builders probably do this by feeling the play in the rocker movement. You can almost tell by rocking them back and forth when it's "right".

Ok, I can do videos if you want, let me know.

EDIT: I plan on doing exhaust too. No need to waste the oil though. http://i.imgur.com/i5JiG.gif

check out the backside method. I've done it twice on my car now with the engine in and twice with the engine out. It's really not that hard unless you have headers in the way.

Which brand feeler?

Amazon.com: K-D Tools 161 Deluxe Feeler Gauge: Home Improvement

Would this work?

Buy the $5 gauge pelican sells, it's meant for doing Porsche valve adjustments.

Put it in, snug it and lock it then move on.

So these two?

Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

Not the 12" go down a few more items, the 1 with a handle and order a few spare blade inserts just in case.

So the .004 size spacer? for the backside?

No

If you are doing the back side (Go/No-Go: Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment - The Backside Method), get the 12" version of the .0025 (Go, # PEL-LM-0025) and .003 (No-GO, # PEL-LM-003).

If you are doing the normal, its the .004 that you have been using.