This is what most of us have done. In the beginning of my tear down I too was worried about how to get that thing out. Then the rubber casing of the wiring harness started crumbling apart, then the harnesses started crumbling for the speed and reference sensors when i would try repositioning them to get them unbolted. At that point, you just say "WTF, they're being replaced anyway" and cut them off so removal becomes a snap.
From my rebuild, it was overall a good experience but the real fun was the disassembly because that where I feel I got a real understanding of how everything worked together.

Doing a dry run on the valve timing is a great idea. This is something new to me. I'm used to just lining up marks on a timing gear.

My head temp sensor is already a 2 wire version. Judging from how shiny it is and the condition of the rubber insulators, I'd say it is fairly recent. Craig Garret is doing the heads and he said he would R&R it for me (Thanks Craig!). I'm glad I don't have to fool around looking for/making a wrench to R&R it. Usually I'm looking for any excuse to buy a new tool but I don't expect to be doing any more 911 engines and buying special tools that I'll never use again just isn't any fun. The best tool I ever had was an 8 foot long USAF surplus torque wrench. I paid $1 for it. It took two men to operate it. I never found a use for it but it was a big comfort know I had it just in case. You never know when you'll need something like that. :D

Going through threads here everyone says get fuel lines rebuilt by Len at Autosport Engineering (len@autosportengineering) I wrote to him on Nov 28 with no response. Does anyone know if he is still doing this? What would be a good alternative to Len for the fuel lines?

If you're not throwing more power at it, why mess with the rod bearings? I mean if they don't show wear when you inspect them, why replace? Your engine doesn't have that many miles on it. The ARP head studs are a good idea or you can buy some supertec's from Henry (great guy btw) Don't freak out too much about the cam timing. Just read the rebuild book, check, then recheck and move on. I had never done it and was able to get mine right of on the first try. For the head studs, have a helper around who can apply just a little heat and by all means I'd get the snap on tool to remove the studs. If you need some help I'm only a few hours away up in NW OH. I'd be glad to lend a hand. I could call my brother and see if he'd ship us all the specialty tools (engine yoke, snap on head stud removal tool, cam tool, piston clip installation tool and z block for setting cam timing) just let me know if you need a hand. Naturally, a beer or two would be in order.

Save it for when you have a CV joint boot torn and you need to remove and reinstall the nut at the rear hub. You'll need something like 250ft/lbs torque.

Thanks! This is very kind. Yes, Delphos is not far away. It's two hours from here to Findlay. Use of the tools would be great! The head stud tool, piston clip tool, and maybe the Z block would be huge help. I still have to go through my stuff and see what I've got in the way of dial indicator mounts. I know I have a magnetic base, but that isn't going to help much. :D
I only work on the car when I can get away during business hours, so coming down to lend a hand prolly won't work. I spend evenings and weekends with my wife.

And you call yourself an enthusiast! :D

Seriously tho, let me know if I can be of any help. I'm sure if no one closer comes up with the tools I can get my brother to send his to me and we can meet up somewhere around Sidney.

Some pelicans have used Amazon hose in florida. In reality, you probably have hose shops near you that can do a perfectly acceptable job of replacing these lines.

I'm not sure if he is or not. When he did mine, I had him go with the steel braided version. He asked me to send him some pics once I had them installed and when I got to the point of installation I took a bunch of pictures of the routing, the fittings and various connections. I emailed him asking which ones specifically he was interested in but never got a response back. If you decided to go with him, the fuel lines that you get back are very well made. I've also seen in Panorama an advert from Kuehl (the air conditioning company) that they are rebuilding fuel lines using the steel tubing and replacing the rubber hosing with new fittings. That might be another option if you don't get in touch with Len Cummings.

Yes, I found the Kuehl lines. They are $548.

https://griffiths.com/product/911-3-2-engine-fuel-line-set-without-gaskets-or-filter/

Still no response from Len Cummings. I'd have a local company do them, but I've read on some thread here that there is a specific type or length of crimp connector that has to be used when replacing the rubber hoses on original steel/rubber sets and I don't know what the type is.

With holidays and illnesses behind me and business almost caught up I will hopefully be able to make some progress on my 3.2 engine.
Len has not responded to my inquiries, so I'm on my own with the fuel lines. I think I'll get some Dayco fuel injection hose and Oetiker stepless clamps and do it myself. I should be able to do it for less than $60. Has anyone done this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453235102.jpg



Also, can someone tell me the ARP part number for 3.2 rod bolts. Their catalog list m9 and m10 and I'm assuming it's one of those.

A buddy of mine here on the forums used new fuel injection pressure rated hose and Oetiker clamps. No complaints so far and he did it many years ago.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453241183.jpg

The rod bolts you want are the 9mm size for a 3.2 engine.

Oetiker clamps
 

Found the Oetiker Clamp Tool at Home Depot in the Plumbing section, about $65. They also have a small selection of the clamps, but I don't know if they are the right size.
Bob B

I'm guessing that is the large one for PEX tubing. I see the small automotive/medical size for $25 to $35 dollars.

Here is my old one, I also used FI hose and made my own been fine since 05

BTW the tool is a Knipex 1099 you can get them for about 30 bux new. Mcmaster carr has all the clamps you could possibly need:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...343a16efe0.jpg


Sent from me

FYI, I received my new fuel lines from Len last November. I don't know why he isn't returning your messages. He did tell me that he doesn't read his email-every day? Hers his address ( maybe send him a snail mail inquiry)?
Leonard Cummings
370 Hudson Road
Stow, MA. 01775
Good luck,
Terry

Amazon has a kit that has the sizes you need and the tool:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-18500060-Stepless-stainless-standard/dp/B008L4874S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453397076&sr=8-1&keywords=oetiker

Well, it's 2019. There has been a LOT of water under the bridge, but I am finally retired and closing the sale of my office building this Friday, so I have some control over my life. The car has been apart now for almost 4 years. I am finally in a position to start getting the 911 back together. A few months ago I bought a 1965 VW to play around with - a slight detour - but it is running and on the road now. I don't have a great place to work on cars yet (building a garage this summer) but I am determined to get this 911 back on the road.
The lower head studs came out without a hitch using the double nut method. I'm ordering new studs today.
Thank you all for the advice over the years. I'll probably be needing more.