2.2E DIY Rebuild

[8bit-ash]

Hello from Suffolk, England, first post here. I acquired a matching no's RHD 1970 E Sporto in Tangerine just under a year ago. It has been off the road since '85 and is now in a thousand pieces, partly thanks to Waynes excellent books.
I'm Setting about the engine myself and am currently a little lost with where to go with it.
I'm looking to build a reliable, long lasting engine, a mild increase on stock power would also be nice but I have to be very careful with costs as funds aren't infinite.

Is there a winning cost effective formula for the 2.2E MFI?

What are the best Value P + C's (pretty certain mine are scrap)

Do I need to fit case savers and shuffle pin the case? Two reputable engine builders here have said they normally leave 2.2 studs alone if they are good.

Mechanical tensioners with collars or Hydraulic?

Thanks in advance.

[crummasel]

If you are restrictive on budget i would take 86mm P/Cs like Porsche 911 86mm JE Piston & Cylinder Kit 2.2 & 2.4 | eBay which i made good experience with in several engines.
Slight increase in static compression and displacement.
No case savers and no pinning (which is doubtful anyway at least on street applications).
Very good refurbished mechanical tensioners of the last version (spring loaded inner check valves!) never caused me any trouble.

[tharbert]

Welcome to the forum 8bit.

Porsche used Magnesium in it's cases from the late 60's up thru the mid/late 70's. Our magnesium cases tend to warp when disassembled. The end result is that the case perimeter, spigots and crank webbing end up on different plains. This makes reassembly problematic and the motor less than bullet proof. A machine shop familiar with air-cooled Porsche should be able to evaluate the case for you but at a minimum, it will probably require:

-Case halves decked so they fit together correctly
-As a smidge is removed from the case halve faces, the case will require an align bore
-Accepted practice suggests head and select web studs should be time serted
-Cylinder surface decked

While you're in there:
-There is a oil bypass modification that will improve oil flow. This mod will work with your old pump but is better when you upgrade to the "4 rib" pump
-I think oil squirters were added by Porsche in 71 (?) and are a fairly inexpensive upgrade if you don't have them. Most of the info I've seen here suggests while it isn't imperative, they are a good idea. Maybe a guru could elaborate?

Crummasel is spot on. You can, without modifying your spigots, use 86mm P/C. Going with Mahle P/C's would be the "best" option and the most expensive. There are some here that wouldn't use the linked Chinese AA cylinders and some that use them after modification to include Nikasil treatment. That decision will probably be influenced by your pocketbook. It really is worth doing you own homework here.

I highly suggest you get our host's book and maybe this one too to learn more about your options. If you plan to do the work yourself, this is a great place to ask questions and get expert answers. This forum's search function will probably yield answers to most of your questions. There are some very experienced folks here willing to help get you past hurdles when the search function just doesn't get it.

I don't envy you trying to keep this under budget. The required mag case work alone won't be cheap. It may be better to mothball the 2.2 and look for a newer power plant...something to think about. Good luck on the build and post lots of pictures.

[8bit-ash]

Thanks for the excellent information. I'm pleased to hear some people are pleased with the JE's, I'll have to do a lot of research before committing to P+C's

I'd not heard of many people decking cases, I had originally been storing the case halfs seperate but i've now bolted them back up in the hope of them not warping.

One of my cams looks like it might need reprofilling and re-hardening, am I best just sticking with the E Cams?

[crummasel]

Correct, there are better options but when budget is a topic mentioned set definitely is considerable. Indeed they are astonishingly good given the price.

Re mag cases there is some risk they are distorted and may require machining but among a lot of engines i had many which proved in line and OK. It probably depends on in which condition they ran in their past. Here in germany corrosion is more a topic than warping maybe simply because of lower average environmental temperatures.

Distortion if there you find in unround main bearing supports and "fallen in" spigots of #2 and #5. So miking the case (mounted and properly torqued) is a must.