New Build Oil Leak Grrrr.....
 

This is a 3.2 conversion into a 3.4 turbo. I rebuilt the motor a few years ago and I'm now finally finishing off the body. So, yesterday was D-day when the stars lined up.
Fuel pressure tested with no leaks.
Made sure all the oil lines were still charged with oil before I turned the motor over with the coils and fuel pump on, and voila! motor fired up and first settled into a rolling idle. A bit of gas and warm up for 20 minutes....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457881046.jpg

No leaks-can't believe it..... until I carefully examined the bottom of the motor. Screw driver is pointing to the exact location of the leak between the stud and the bolt..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457881464.jpg

A closer look....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457881549.jpg

I have not yet re-torqued or restarted the motor. Thought that I would first seek some suggestions from the Pelican Brain Trust before going any further to solve this issue. So, if you have any suggestions, please bear in.
I have cross posted with my build thread, http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/748639-evolution-carrera-rst.html so hopefully between the two I will get some ideas.
Thanks in advance.
Johan

That sucks. I would try draining the oil and cleaning the seam as best as you can by spraying it with brakekleen and drying then force some sealer (RTV) on your thumb and force it into the seam. I've had luck with that method on pan/block leaks on other engines when I needed a quick ghetto fix. But the problem here will be getting it clean and dry w/o more oil coming through. If your engine has a sump plate is there any way you can get your fingers inside the case with a rag to sop up any oil on the inside and then clean it with a brakekleen soaked rag?

^
I have done that with success!

if you are going to force something in there force cotton thread.
In fact, if you want a leak-proof case run a cotton thread all around it B4 assy.
I am not much for advocating aircraft practices as archaic as they are, but they do this.
(cotton swells)

Cotton or silk thread? That could work. Force some in there with a needle or wire. It may stop the oil bleeding so you can get the seam clean for the RTV to stick. Spread some RTV on the outside of the seam too. It won't be pretty but compared to the alternative? Those archaic aircraft practices are still used for a reason.
I had an '04 F350 with the POS 6.0 diesel. It developed a small rear main drip so I built a tray out of some tin that was suspended below the drip. I put a kotex in the tray and it worked great, no more drips on the driveway. The only problem was the truck developed PMS.

Thank you all for your great suggestions. So, from what you all have suggested, I'm going to proceed with the following:
1. Drain oil for 48 hours. Will augment with heat last 12 hours.
2. Undo front thru bolt as the leak may have originated from there.
3. clean out the area with brakekleen and air.
4, rough up the area as best as I can.
5. do the string thing as suggested. I'm going to buy the thinest needle and cotton thread at the fabric store.
6. manually press VRT into the area and the bolt slot.
7. re-intal bolt with new aluminum washers and re-torque.
8. let sit for 48 hours.
9. Fill oil.
10. Re-start and PRAY.
Anything else???
Johan
P.S. Got to laugh at Boosted's Kotex solution......

I'll get beat down for this, but after cleaning best you can, rub a tiny layer of Ultra Grey Permatex RTV in the seam.

There's probably no other way to seal it minus tearing down.

Uwon - I'd say you've got it covered. leave one end of the thread hanging down from the seam and cover it in the RTV you smear over the seam in case it doesn't work and you want to try it again w/o the thread so you can pull it out.

Pretty Car

Don't know how you're going to get a thread in the seam, other than lay it on the top...
JB weld is good for that area. lay it on and duct tape it until it cures.

Nice car and i hope you manage to rescue this without a teardown. Keep us updated :)

Nice car. I like the color too.

Thank guys for good wishes.
We shall overcome this little setback.
Johan

John,
Interesting that you are suggesting JB Weld. You are right that I will have trouble stuffing the thread into the seam. So I'm toying with the following solution:
1. Stuff (try) RTV covered thread into seam. Protect case with masking tape so not to contaminate area that where JB Weld will be applied.
2. Build up a bead of RTV on top of thread. Remove masking tape. Let cure. Clean area to remove residue.
3. Apply JB Weld over the RTV and case. Hold with duct tape. Cure
4. Remove duct tape, clean residual glue from tape. Rough up JBWeld. Clean and re-apply JB Weld as in #3.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458389612.jpg

To account for possible flexing, I thought that I would also grind a shallow cut line on the JB Weld following the seam and fill it with RTV.
Thought ?
Johan

JB only would be my suggestion. Doesn't have to be real thick. Just clean it well with brakekleen and do it when there's no seepage obviously.

I used JB on my fuel tank that sprung a small leak. problem fixed for many months now. That stuff sticks like .... to a blanket. If it can seal fuel I would think the chances for oil are good. As above what John posts - clean it up so it has every chance to grip and set before being assaulted with oil.
Alan

I saw your reply in the main forum, with the cleaned up picture. And the drip. That sucks!!

Luckily it's not a pressurized leak, so I would just try cleaning it well and smearing a bit of (grey) rtv along the seam, first, before resorting to JB.

Also, Can Tire has a good selection of permatex products in tubes. One is a polyurethane that seems similar to Window Urethane. It is really stong and sticky, probably one step up from regular RTV.

JB Weld only. My newly rebuilt 915 leaked at the tail housing flange. Drained, cleaned, worked. Later I discovered that the gasket was installed improperly. The JB Weld came off easily with a fine wire wheel on my grinder.

Silicone will be attacted by fuel, oil, etc...

JBWeld epoxy is pretty much impervious to that stuff. Remember, it's what we use to seal pressed in plugs. So using it on a dry flange is probably the best option.

Thanks everyone for you suggestions. I think that I should heed John Walker's advice given his extensive professional experience. So JB Weld it is. Stay tuned.
Cheers,
Johan