Cannot Remove Last Headstud

[arbita1]

All my head studs came out so easily except one. It's not broken but I'm afraid I'm going to twist and break it if I try too hard.

I've been using PB Blaster and heat around the bottom of the stud. I'm using a beaker bar and then trying an impact wrench.

This thing is completely stuck. Am I heating the right spot??




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[boosted79]

Ditch the breaker bar and collet on the end of the stud. The stud itself absorbs some of the torque you are applying because it's applied at the end, you need the torque just above the case threads. What are you using for heat? get one of those bernzomatic push button light rosebud heads they have at lowes or HD. Put a pipe wrench on the stud just above the case and put torque on it. Put the heat to it on the inside of the spigot and hold it until you feel the stud let go.

[arbita1]

When you say heat inside the spigot is that where the cylinder head slips into? I've been heat the location around the base of the stud on the outside of the case.

[boosted79]

Yes, where the cylinder slips into the case. What are you using for heat?

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by boosted79

Yes, where the cylinder slips into the case. What are you using for heat?

Yellow map gas cylinder with a standard tip that you light with a sparker.

[boosted79]

You can try it with the pipewrench, it may take a while because the case pulls the heat away so fast, the more heat you can put into it the better, up to a point. That's where the rosebud tip works good, it puts a lot of heat into it fast. Just wanted to make sure you weren't using oxy/acet because you can have an aluminum blob without any notice unless you're using temp crayons.

[Dick Shift]

How I do it. One person heating as described above with a real torch and the other slowly backing out the stud with the slow small movement of a long breaker bar on the end of the stud and pipe wrench as close the base of the head stud as you can get.
I replace with new or even harvested used OEM steel, AND warranty both for life. Never seen a broken steel head stud in my 35 years of repairing Porsche 911 engines. No need for expensive anything else for street cars. It goes with out saying no Divilars studs. And case savers in 2.7 mag cases.

[prschmn]

On Aluminum cases I use an oxy torch-otherwise it's very hard to get enough heat where you need it. Just don't let the torch remain stationary. And your collet puller should work-torque is transmitted down the stud so will will get some twist in it.
I'd be careful with a pipe wrench-it's going to gouge the stud which creates stress risers-which is just where it's going to break if too much force is applied.
Now a Mag case-that's another matter entirely.

[john walker's workshop]

Oxy/act torch and collet here. Heat inside the cylinder spigot adjacent to the where the threads are. Keep tension on it until it lets loose.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Oxy/act torch and collet here. Heat inside the cylinder spigot adjacent to the where the threads are. Keep tension on it until it lets loose.

.

Matt,

Most of the time the cylinder head studs would come off without the need of heat using a collet and impact wrench. And a few stubborn ones like what you are experiencing now. Applying sufficient heat at the spigot area is the key to breaking the bond between the stud and the crankcase. Once the adhesive bond is melted, the resistance is reduced tremendously that you could easily remove the said stud. MAP gas will work but takes a lot longer heating time compared to an Oxy/acetylene torch. The crankcase is a good heat sink and could absorb a lot of head before you could melt the adhesive between the threaded section and the hole. You are doing well and keep up the good work.

Tony

[arbita1]

I don't have an oxy/act set up. I heated with the map gas for about 3 minutes. Still wouldn't break free. I have a small pipe wrench and tried that too. Now this stud is starting to bend. Maybe I need to heat longer. How much time do you think I need to heat it for?

Thanks for the reassurance Tony.

In the worst case scenario where I cannot get it out. I'm assuming I can find a shop that can do it for me somewhere.

[3literpwr]

https://instagram.com/p/goqsoJh1Ft/

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by 3literpwr

https://instagram.com/p/goqsoJh1Ft/

Thanks.

Maybe I need to try more heat and a bigger pipe wrench.

[boosted79]

That's the torch you need. Just keep the heat on it until it lets go.

[Steam Driver]

I can't say I've had a lot of experience with these; only done twelve. But I had no trouble using a mapp torch and Snap-On collet remover. I would definitely ditch the impact wrench. Heat is the answer.

[cnwayland]

Did all of mine today. Used a propane torch and the Snap-On collet stud remover tool. I have to say without the Snap-On tool I'd probably have been lost.

On at least half I had to hold torque on the collet tool with a 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar with one hand and then torch with the free hand until the stud gave way.

It seems like one of the few cases where the impact drill doesn't work magic. It was more about holding steady pressure until it let loose.

[SCadaddle]

Believe it or not, my engine builder that uses Kano Kroil on most things suggested that he'd had problems using it as a penetrating oil when removing the studs; in his experience it appeared to react with the original Loctite and seemed to make things worse.

So what we did on my engine: heat inside the case spigot with map gas while holding pressure (rotation) on the stud via the snap on collet tool and once it got around 300-350F in the area around the stud via a pyrometer I simply touched the base of the stud with a Berts Bees wax lip balm stick---the bees wax will flow in and it will break free in just a few seconds. Keep heating the case as you spin the stud out. If you don't the stud will start to get tight again.

The Berts Bees wax lip balm was the closest thing I could readily find to pure bees wax. It was the peppermint flavored one. Walgreens!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by arbita1

I don't have an oxy/act set up. I heated with the map gas for about 3 minutes. Still wouldn't break free. I have a small pipe wrench and tried that too. Now this stud is starting to bend. Maybe I need to heat longer. How much time do you think I need to heat it for?

Thanks for the reassurance Tony.

In the worst case scenario where I cannot get it out. I'm assuming I can find a shop that can do it for me somewhere.

Matt,

I am doing my 15th engine rebuild and had encountered stubborn cylinder head studs maybe 3 times only. I usually do it without heat and could get them out around 30 mins. But with a stubborn stud, additional heat is needed. Apply heat for 10 to 15 mins. on the spigot using a MAP to melt the bond between the stud and the crankcase. If my memory serves me right, I have removed more than 150 Dilavars head studs. About 4 dozens or so Dilavars studs are saved in my garage.

Using a Snap-ON stud remover and a strong impact wrench are my primary tools which I learned from Tom Butler.

Tony

[cmcfaul]

It's always the last one ;-)

[Alan L]

More heat. Keep the pressure on while heating. get the heat into the case, not the stud. While leaning on the stud while heating, the stud will tell you when it has enough heat to move.
Others, more experienced than I, have told you to heat the inside part of the case. I heat the base platform bit around the stud, careful not to get direct heat on the stud. After reading this I will heat the inside next time - always learning. Heating the stud just softens the stud, making job harder. Which is probably why they go for inside of case. But it will come free with enough heat. Just a bit stressful having to heat it so much. I use oxy/ acet, but propane/oxy should be enough. Never tried the cannister ones, but for sure you would have to heat for a bit longer. (5+ mins?)
Alan
Alan