Which oil line should I use on SSI installation

[pbeezy]

Hi. I am installing SSIs in the next few days on my 1979 911SC. I need to retrofit some old oil lines. One will run under the engine block and SSI over to the passenger's side of the engine. I think the next line will go to the line I have pictured below (by the passenger rear tire). Is this right? It would mean I don't have a front oil cooler (I'm really not sure).



Thanks in advance,
PB

[pbeezy]

Also, what should I do with this EGR pipe that enters the exhaust? Does it perform any important functions?

[mreid]

My god, man, that things needs a lot more than ssi's!

[pbeezy]

Yeah, there have been some oil leaks which were addressed but the oil on the block was not cleaned. If you see something else that needs to be done, feel free to pitch it out there, you won't hurt my feelings.

[jbell959]

As I recall,, you need 2 oil lines. 91110773910 and 93010772910

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by pbeezy

Yeah, there have been some oil leaks which were addressed but the oil on the block was not cleaned. If you see something else that needs to be done, feel free to pitch it out there, you won't hurt my feelings.

PB,

If this is my car, I would drop the motor and clean it thoroughly. With the motor installed on an engine stand, you could conveniently perform the following:
a). Remove the engine return oil line.
b). Repair the broken exhaust stud/s.
c). Fix the EGR connection to the air box.
d). Repair the sources of oil leaks.
f). Spend many hours cleaning and degreasing the motor.
g). SSI installation would be very convenient.
h). Work would be easy on your back unless you are the type of person who likes to endure hardships.

Just my two cents.

Tony

[theiceman]

wow I wasnt sure if someone had painted that case black or if the oil leaks were really that bad.

you could lighten the car 5 lbs by just cleaning that mess. you will have to before you do anything anyway to even have a clue where its pouring out from.

[pbeezy]

Thanks everyone. I just got this car so I'm still learning about it. Believe it or not, it only leaks a few drops (like 2 or 3) over the course of a day.

I suspect at some point, it was much worse. Would cleaning off the oil simply be for aesthetics or would these be any benefit to the engine function? Could the process of cleaning the oil off uncover a gasket leak that is currently sealed?

[pbeezy]

Originally Posted by jbell959

As I recall,, you need 2 oil lines. 91110773910 and 93010772910

Jbell, I checked those part numbers. They would imply that I have a front oil cooler. What would be the best way to confirm that is what I have?

[Flat6pac]

If you have an SC you have front oil cooler. What the lines have to do is cross under the trans, connect to support at the corner sheet metal. The second pipe connects there and runs to the external thermostat inside connection. You have to remove outside connection from the oil tank. Now is a good time to replace that hose to the oil tank too.
Using a die grinder, cut the connections on the thermostat diagonally to release the steel nuts from the aluminum thermostat threads. When you get close to being through the nut, hit it with a hammer and chisel or air chisel.
Bruce

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by pbeezy

Jbell, I checked those part numbers. They would imply that I have a front oil cooler. What would be the best way to confirm that is what I have?

pbeezy,

Inspect the passenger side front fender (US models) of your SC for the auxiliary cooler. The auxiliary cooler (trombone, 28-tube, or a radiator type cooler) is located between the front tire and the headlight bucket. Post a picture. Thanks.

Tony

[pbeezy]

Thanks Bruce and Tony. Y'all are right, I do have a front oil cooler.

Bruce, thank you so much for the advice on changing the oil lines. I have the replacements and suspect that this is gonna be difficult but doable task for my experience level. I'd like a ask a few questions to clarify your strategy. So you want me to essentially cut the nuts that holds both lines on place about 3/4's of the way through? Then wack them? So don't bother to try to loosen them the traditional way? It does look like a tight fit from a space prospective and some of the other nuts on this 37 year old car have felt near impossible to loosen.

Also, I don't have a die grinder. Would a dremel be able to do this task?

If you have any pics or drawing I'd appreciate it. I think this and possible putting a small dent into my passenger side SSI to get it to fit with the clutch spring are the final tricky steps to completing this job.

Best,
PB

[Flat6pac]

Cut the nuts with whatever you have available. You will need to cut all the way to the threads. The threads on the thermostat are aluminum

[fred cook]

I found it easier to remove the oil thermstat with the 4 lines attached. Then, when out from under the car, I held the thermostat with a very large pipe wrench and was then able to loosen the thermostat oil lines using a large wrench and a hammer. No cutting involved and no damage to the oil cooler threads. Once the old lines were removed, I put the thermostat back in place, connected the two remaining lines and then installed the two new lines. Good luck!

[911 Rod]

Cleaning an engine is part of the job. It's not a maybe I should.
The reason it only drips a bit is because all the dust that the oil has soaked up is still soaking it up.
When you are done you will get more satisfaction out of the cleaning you did than the SSI's.
I started with a putty knife.