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got a few questions * re-assemble
Starting to put my motor back together.... and i'm going to have a few questions.
1st, does this oil pressure sending unit/switch look correct- maybe they've changed the design ? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491776687.JPG 2nd. I've got the Wrightwood Racing gasket kit. Any special tips on rear main seal install ? or treat it as you would any other seal ? Lube the sealing surface, or install dry ? |
Hey T!
1. That is just another Brand, will work just fine, just torque it properly the first time, too much it will squeeze out the crush seal. Ask me how I know :eek: 2. Dry just make sure it goes in evenly and straight and allow .5MM to stick out. Engine oil on inner lip where the crank sits on. |
Thanks Jim. We're going to have to get you on the payroll around here. Out of 100 views you're the only one able to help. ;)
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I have had seals squirt right back out with oil or non Hardening sealer, not this application but rebuilding super chargers where I used a thin layer of permatex hardening sealer.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491851665.jpg |
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whoops, hope i didn't let the cat outta-the-bag ;)
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Hi Tori..my advice is not to use on your flywheel all brown seal ..they suck.Use only the one with black trim ...same goes for the front pulley seal no "Brown" only brown with black..
like these.. I could use the same words as Jim...ask me.h..... http://img.pccreation.net/photos/201704102319544455.JPG The other thing is the oil press.switch i hate these new types...recently i have found some on ebay original factory so i bought my self 4 ....for the future.. Ivan |
Thanks Ivan, i'll shoot for the black and brown OEM seal then. The "genuine" OPS that our host sells looks just like this one. I may have to try my luck on that one.
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Your Wrightwood Seals are just fine, key is how you put them in and how straight they are.
Dang it now you done it, that is another 300 hps on those hi flow valves :eek: |
Okay,.... moving right along..... is there anything to know about removing the crank pulley ? I've tried an air gun, but it's not happening. Do i need to figure out a way to hold the crank so i can get some "ballz" on it? Bolt need heated to break loose lock tite ?
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The best flywheel seals are made by Elring and happens to be in the Wrightwood Racing set..The V.R. brown will leak ..just my experience....
Ivan |
Turns out the Wrightwood Racing set, (at least the full set i bought) does not include the Rear Main Seal. The one i did buy is Corteco. Opinion on that one ?
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there are two gasket sets, engine and upper gasket set , these seals are not included on the upper set..
Corteco looks ok....but do not know it ....maybe Jim will or others..i stick to what worked for me in the past.... |
Tori - it is hard to imagine a 1/2" impact wrench with 100 psi behind it failing to break loose the bolt holding the crank pulley in place. No reason to use a thread locker here, though that doesn't mean one wasn't used if this motor has been apart previously.
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Good point from Walt...Tori are you going the right direction with the air gun,just an idea....;-)
Ivan |
Brother Tori,
If you can wait, I can over night the Flywheel Lock tool, you place it and jam it against a stud use a wood clamp to hold in place the use a breaker bar. http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...0eT/s-l225.jpg or do this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...sOFhqLg1Dv_C6w |
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Good news, the electric impact worked.
Thanks for the offer Jim on the tool, i wouldn't have been able to use either of those at the moment as there is no flywheel on the car. ;) |
My air has been down while I remodeled garage. Bought one of those electric 1/2 impacts at HF and I have to say it's bailed me out a few times, not bad for $40.
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