Exterior block cleaning
 

Soon to start my re assembly

Case halves have been well degreased several times, then power washed several times as well.

I'd like to get the stain & oxidation removed from the outside. A friend suggested a weak acid/navel jelly product that "works" the aluminum without a lot of scrubbing

any suggestion/thoughts?
tks

Google Vapor Blasting

No one close by, and I really don't want to ship

I used Prep and Prime on my case. It helped, but it required a lot of brush work to get it really clean. Don't leave it on or it will darken the aluminum. In my case, I really didn't want it to look too shiny. I wanted it to be clean and new looking, not polished.

If you really want your case to shine, put it in a vibratory polisher.

soda blast followed by cerakote matte clear
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500723760.jpg

Your in Orchard Park there's plenty of places around Buffalo. + 1 Soda blast or Dry ice Blast then cerakote. If you have a good compressor you can use a harbor freight blaster with a few mods the most important being replacement of ball valve with proper media valve.

I wanted clean, not polished.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500734210.jpg

Clean,
 

Safety Kleen, degreaser, pressure washer, degreaser, pressure washer.
Gets the caked grease off.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500742746.jpg

I do have a good compressor/pressure blast setup.
Is the only pressure pot mod to swap out the bottom ball valve?
tks
ed

ok so is cerakote just a paint that you can DIY? or do you have to take it someplace to have it done?

Yes you can DIY. But make sure to mask everything so none gets on the inside of the cases, stud holes, etc. I use a small touch up gun to spray it. And you need a good organic mask, I have never smelled any paint like this, just taking a little whiff from the can will almost knock you over. It needs to be sprayed on in thin coats or you'll get runs. It's like 60-70 for a pint but that will be plenty. It's the best there is for clearcoating metals. I use the matte so it doesn't look glossy.
https://www.clearcoating.com/

Did you use the MC-157 or the 161?

Yes ball valves are not ideal for blasting material, you can make a simple valve using a piece of rubber hose and a clamp, or pay a $100 for a media valve. I also added a piece of pipe with several holes drilled in it that attaches to the tank fitting and goes up inside the tank. Cheap blasters get a bad rep, mainly because of the lack of a proper media valve and lack of decent dry air.

I used the 161, the 157 is thinner which makes it easier to run.

Ultrasonically cleaned:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928052.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928052.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928052.jpg

How it looked before cleaning:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928126.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928126.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500928193.jpg

[QUOTE=boosted79;9671981]soda blast followed by cerakote matte clear
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1500723760.jpg[/SB

Did you use the SB from china freight?

what is sb?

if it's sand blaster, yes. The siphon blaster cabinet, not the pressure pot that is used outside. But a better gun from TP tools and I have a cyclone separator going into a shop vac that I put outside of the shop. I have a big comp. system. 17 scfm or so and both water and air cooled aftercoolers to drop out as much moisture as possible.

sb=
Soda Blaster

I run soda in the cabinet after I vacuum it AND hose it out. I then immerse the part in water after the soda and then hose it off. I remove all galley plugs before degreasing and run gun brushes thru the galleys along with brake cleaner. I run gun brushes thru after the soda also and spray water thru all the galleys. It's a lot of work but the finished product with the cerakote is really nice.

when I'm blasting a case I also put rubber stoppers in the galley holes just to try to keep the soda out.