What the latest on break in oil considering new formulations?

[3Ddesigns911]

The "oil" is a recurring topic and I realize there are a number of ways looking at it, as well as personal experience. Having said that, I have my top end rebuilt and will soon install the engine which will need to be properly broken in.

For reference I do have Wayne's book and I also read all the oil threads I could find, however the oil formulations changed a few times in the recent years which brings me to my question.

What are you guys currently using? Brand and weight?

Previously Brad Penn was the king, then it was disputed and Delo or Kendal seemed to be the right choice. Wayne has referred to he's using Castrol in a thread. Valvoline was also mentioned Either way I was hoping to get some feedback from you guys with experience using oils available right now.

For the record I am considering going with a straight 30 weight with no additives for the first 20 min, followed by a 15-40 dino, and change it at 500 then a 1000 miles before going to synth.... What are the brands to use these days?

Thanks in advance!
PS. I have not seen any reference to Rotella T1 w30, and the T4 15-40 does not seem popular either. Is that still the case?

[txhokie4life]

I'm in the same boat...

Everything's new and hopefully firing up soon.

Damn system takes 20 quarts, so price is somewhat a consideration.

[smarens]

same here too, lets hear from our experts here, we have a bunch, I'm not shy of price....not after rebuild cost

[Lyle O]

I used Joe Gibbs 30 wt Break-in oil for first few hundred, then Mobil 1 10W-50 for the duration of break-in and for there-after. I didn't baby it at all, just always varied the the revs and loads, etc. Rings set beautifully. Motor runs great (5000 or so on it now); burns almost no oil, and my oil analysis shows all elements within normal range. My $.02.

[Catorce]

Joe Gibbs

[Trackrash]

My motor has about 500 miles on it. FWIW I used Valvoline 15-40 until the 500 mile change. Now Brad Pen AKA PennGrade 20-50 dino. Rings seem to be seated. IMO use dino first in our old school air cooled cars.

I am not going to Synthetic until after 1000 miles. I'm leaning toward Mobil 1, but will have to re-evaluate at that time.

Problem is, all oils are in the process of being reformulated. I've read Mobil 1 is not the same oil as it used to be.

[3Ddesigns911]

This is interesting Joe Gibbs did not come up before. Also I don't see a straight 30 weight oil only 5-30.

Thanks guys.

[Sboxin]

Joe Gibbs Driven BR Break-In Motor Oil 15-50

We have used this twice in the last 5 years and worked great . . .
The Summit link is just for information - you can buy it from a lot of different suppliers

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-00106

This is the procedure we used after the 20 minute 2000 RPM run in for the cams/lifters seating
and 24 hour cool down (which is the most important procedure for new/rebuilt cams/lifters)

Engine Break In Procedure - 964 3.8L race engine

We ran the car on the track for break in using Joe Gibbs oil
on Saturday. The procedure was shift at 3K for several laps
then to 4K and 5K with acceleration - deceleration cycles.

On Sunday we changed the oil to Valvoline race oil 20-50. The
oil came out dark gray but no particles on the magnetic drain plugs.
Brian ran the engine to 6K for shifting and did a race practice,
race qualifying and the a 30 minute sprint race, still shifting at 6K.
(what patience he has -- being a back marker...)
NOTE: Oil temp was 210 for break in and during the race on Sunday - air temp 88
After the Sunday race and cool down we drained and sent the oil to the Lab and
refilled with 20-50 Amsoil - which we still use as our race oil

The Joe Gibbs oil I think is mineral oil with no additives . . .


Regards,

[3Ddesigns911]

Awesome info. Thanks Roy

[Steve@Rennsport]

Brad-Penn 30w break-in oil for the first few hours of running, then the normal B-P, 15w-40 racing oil after that.

Excellent results every time.

[3Ddesigns911]

Hey Steve,
I just looked up the B-P 15w40 racing oil and it is partial synthetic... they also have a 15w40 dino for diesel.
Are you guys switching to the part synthetic after the first few hours of dino already?

Thx

[sebastianroher]

Originally Posted by Sboxin

Joe Gibbs Driven BR Break-In Motor Oil 5-30

We have used this twice in the last 5 years and worked great . . .
The Summit link is just for information - you can buy it from a lot of different suppliers

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-01806/overview/

This is the procedure we used after the 20 minute 2000 RPM run in for the cams/lifters seating
and 24 hour cool down (which is the most important procedure for new/rebuilt cams/lifters)

Engine Break In Procedure - 964 3.8L race engine

We ran the car on the track for break in using Joe Gibbs oil
on Saturday. The procedure was shift at 3K for several laps
then to 4K and 5K with acceleration - deceleration cycles.

On Sunday we changed the oil to Valvoline race oil 20-50. The
oil came out dark gray but no particles on the magnetic drain plugs.
Brian ran the engine to 6K for shifting and did a race practice,
race qualifying and the a 30 minute sprint race, still shifting at 6K.
(what patience he has -- being a back marker...)
NOTE: Oil temp was 210 for break in and during the race on Sunday - air temp 88
After the Sunday race and cool down we drained and sent the oil to the Lab and
refilled with 20-50 Amsoil - which we still use as our race oil

The Joe Gibbs oil I think is mineral oil with no additives . . .


Regards,

Had some "summit bucks" picked up 3 quarts and only had to pay $10 for shipping. Will get some more as the build gets closer to finishing.

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by 3Ddesigns911

Hey Steve,
I just looked up the B-P 15w40 racing oil and it is partial synthetic... they also have a 15w40 dino for diesel.
Are you guys switching to the part synthetic after the first few hours of dino already?

Thx

It is my understanding that Prad Penn oil uses a better quality base oil that qualifies as "partial synthetic". In reality it is actually just high quality dino oil.

[3Ddesigns911]

Thanks.
Sounds like B-P is still one of the good options for break in...

[AVI_8]

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned anything about ZDDP, given that modern oils lack this additive and it's believed that a lack of ZDDP is the main reason for camshaft pitting on 911 engines

When my engine is rebuilt I'll be using a 10-40 mineral oil which has this additive, changed several times up to 1000 miles then replaced with a 10-40 fully synthetic again with high Zinc/phosphorus content.

[AVI_8]

Found this but it's been discussed on pelican also.

https://www.thoughtco.com/debunking-the-motor-oil-additive-urban-legend-726162

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by 3Ddesigns911

Hey Steve,
I just looked up the B-P 15w40 racing oil and it is partial synthetic... they also have a 15w40 dino for diesel.
Are you guys switching to the part synthetic after the first few hours of dino already?

Thx

The 'partial synthetic' labeling is political and the result of an FTC ruling. Generally speaking, its meaningless in the real world.

Diesel oils are for diesel engines which have totally different operating conditions than gasoline engines. Further, the EPA has mandated similar reductions in ZDDP for diesel oils and should not be used in a 911 engine.

As I noted, we start each & every newly built engine using Brad-Penn Break-in oil (on our engine dyno), run it for a few hours during camshaft break-in and ring seating. After that is done, we change over to the regular Brad-Penn 15w-40 racing oil and finish tuning as needed. Its what goes in the engine after re-installation back into the car.

[boosted79]

Delo 15-40 for 100, Delo until 500 change to VR1 20-50 don't baby it. Start, check for leaks, drive it, keep R's above 2000, lots of pedal to get cyl press.high but short shift to keep R's down, a little boost doesn't hurt, then closed throttle decel to 2000 repeat numerous times.

[3Ddesigns911]

Thanks guys. I guess the 3 brands these days are:

Joe Gibbs
Brad Penn
Delo

I think I will do B-P

[boosted79]

"Diesel oils are for diesel engines which have totally different operating conditions than gasoline engines. Further, the EPA has mandated similar reductions in ZDDP for diesel oils and should not be used in a 911 engine."

Delo 400 LE 15-40 still has 1300 ppm zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus. The Delo 400 SDE has been reduced to like 800 zinc, don't use it. You need a PHD in chemistry to figure out what oil to use these days.