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Quote:
Originally Posted by obscene View Post
hey
Benny! After your drift car, you gotta go 3.4 with me!
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/878569-born-75-me-my-new-911s.html
Old 09-10-2018, 09:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post
Benny! After your drift car, you gotta go 3.4 with me!
I'd have to sell it to afford the 3.2L!


I'm getting pretty good with the LS stuff though... Maybe I could just....
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
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Hi guys, my paint and interior is finished so I'm turning focus back to my 3.4 project.

I'm researching pistons and cylinder setups. My first question deals with compression ratio as it relates to pump gas. I think I'm pretty set on 10.5 and I'm liking the CP x-forged 98mm pistons. I can only get 91 pump gas here but I can get 100 octane at a station about 12 miles away. With 10.5 and a twin plug setup, I think I want to be running a bit higher octane than 91 correct? I'm also in a hot environment, I've heard this can lead to detonation. Will mixing the race gas in be a total pain? Will it be necessary? Can I squeeze by with 91 for road trips (here to Cali and back is all 91)

My second question is CP pistons in my Mahle 3.2 cylinders. EBS can bore and plate for a pretty good price but I came across a post about different alloy types. In a nutshell, Mahle uses a proprietary alloy, and the CP use 2618. The differences can cause slap, blowblack and excessive wear if the ring gaps are not perfect. So my question is, should I opt for more expensive Mahle pistons with the bored stock cylinders? or should I buy Nickies to go with the CP pistons? Or should I be fine with the CP pistons and modded mahle cylinders?

Thanks for any feedback.

As a side note, I'm looking at Pauter rods - the two I see are an F which is for stock dimensions and a FLT which is a lightweight version. The price is the same for both sets, why would anyone NOT buy the lightweight versions?
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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More questions. Just got my case back from a local shop who hot tanked it to remove a lot of the grime. They also used a wand like tool to blow out the piston squirters. I guess just an air hose attachment of some type and some redish oil (forget what type.)

The studs for the case halves got a bit baked. There's a bit of rust and corrosion. So I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to pull all the case half studs and replace with new hardware. I've been looking around and I don't see any mention of it. Wayne's book doesn't address this that I can find.

To pull the studs I would double nut and heat. For new case half studs (the perimeter studs not the head studs) What loctite should I use if any?

Also I have a bit of staining on the exterior. Call me uptight, but I want the bottom of the case to be uniform. What to use to get an even raw look besides vapor blasting which I'm ruling out due to not wanting to pull the squirters.

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Old 12-07-2018, 06:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
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Grey Sludge

Just read your thread, what great documentation.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post
So about that grey sludge...whatya think?
I had a similar sludge in my 83 911SC ROW case following a piston landing failure and the engine had ground up some of the piston fragments.
Old 12-07-2018, 07:44 AM
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Are you saying your studs are rusted? Try a wire brush to shine up the studs. If the threads are not corroded they should be good to reuse. The perimeter studs use locking nuts so no loc-tite is needed or desired.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldMHedge View Post
Just read your thread, what great documentation.

I had a similar sludge in my 83 911SC ROW case following a piston landing failure and the engine had ground up some of the piston fragments.
Interesting. Yes I found the IMS gear missing some chunks out of the teeth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackrash View Post
Are you saying your studs are rusted? Try a wire brush to shine up the studs. If the threads are not corroded they should be good to reuse. The perimeter studs use locking nuts so no loc-tite is needed or desired.
They aren't bad. Just a few spots on the tops and edges. The tops that will be visible. Yes I hit them with a brass brush, but I kinda wanted fresh blingy hardware (studs) there. I'm talking about the case half studs along the perimeter. I was wondering how many people pull these and replace with new hardware. I guess I wanted a bit more bling with either replating these or getting new cad/yellow zinc hardware. So I was referring to the loc-tite when seating the new perimeter studs back in the case.

I was thinking of sending it all to a batch to be re-plated as the hot tank seemed to take off any of the remaining original zinc coating.

It's probably way more work and expense for something that is primarily bling? What do you guys think?
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:38 AM
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