Engine lowered but wont remove

zman911 · 02-11-2003, 05:01 AM

I bought the book (101)...good stuff! I am attempting to remove the engine in my 71 911T to fix the leaks.

I now have everything disconnected.(I checked at least 3 times)I lowered the engine, but the engine will not roll away from the transmission.(Im doing engine only first) Do I need to get a real man out to help force this or should is back out relativly easy?

Thanks in advance....great place!

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

Are you trying to leave the trans attached, or just remove the engine, leaving the trans in place?

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I'm not familiar with the pre-72 transmissions but my guess is the the clutch fork is hung up on the release bearing.

Why do people insist on dropping the engine alone? It is much easier to drop engine and transmission together and you don't run the risk of hanging the transmission by the shifter shaft and wrecking the seal. Short of a pro beating the book rate or a mid-race engine R&R I see no reason to remove the engine without the transmission.
-Chris

zman911 · 02-11-2003, 06:00 AM

I am was leaving the transmission attached to the car...only because that is what I was reading in the book. Should I reattach a few of the bolts and try to take it all out?

brandett · 02-11-2003, 08:32 AM

Most people seems to think its easier to pull the engine with the tranny. Not that much more work, the book mentions what you have to remove in order to do it. The big + will be when you put it back, much easier.

Groesbeck Hurricane · 02-11-2003, 09:12 AM

It is easier to re-attach the tranny out of the car. If all four nuts/barrel nuts are removed from the studs, I would expect that your clutch fork is engaged. Try moving it. I want to re-iterate from experience, it can be difficult to re-attach the tranny when the tranny is still in the vehicle. I know from experience and a sore back. Good thing the wife is a Chiropractor...

zman911 · 02-11-2003, 10:11 AM

Great advice....Im going to drop back and reattach the transmission and then remove it all. I should have thought of that but glad I ask. I took me about 2 hours to get the hidden starter bolt out I cant imagine trying to piece the 2 together under the car.

Thanks to all!!

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

I strongly recommend that you use an engine dolly instead of a floor jack. There are two schools of thought about DIY engine drop one using a floor jack and others use wooden engine dolly.

Floor jacks are good for VW engines (lighter) but for bigger and heavier engines, the dolly makes the job a lot easier. These are two different styles of removing the engine from the car and you'll find later which is better. Just my $0.02......

john_colasante · 02-12-2003, 08:43 PM

I told Wayne to add a special note about '70-'71 cars in his book but he didn't bother. Too bad. These cars are special in that the clutch TOB has to be rotated before it disengages from the fork - it's the "pull type" clutch.

TimT · 02-13-2003, 05:44 PM

John is correct in that you have to release the T/O bearing from the shift fork.... 3 small bolts and some spacers...... or someone with a strong screwdriver.

zman911 · 02-14-2003, 04:16 AM

Great info and perfect timing!! Im taking off early this afternoon to work on it.

Thanks!!

JTO · 02-17-2003, 11:25 AM

I've pulled my engine four times in the last six months dealing with my clutch issue, engine rebuild, etc. I had to find a more secure way of removing the engine than the floor jack. I bought a ATV jack that consists of two long rubber coverd plates that are the same width as the heater boxes on my SSIs. The ATV jack has a lift of 32". This device allows me to lower the engine in complete security with no fear of the motor tipping off a floor jack. It has allowed me to pulle the engine or engine and tranny with a lot more confidence and control. Its very stable.

Troy

antares · antares's Garage

JTO - Where did you get your ATV jack? I was looking at Sears but their cycle/ATV appeared not to lift 32-inches and a handle gets in the way as well.
Antares
fatnwide

zman911 · 02-25-2003, 12:37 PM

JTO

Great idea on the jack...where did you get it?

jgparker · jgparker's Garage

Harbor Freight has a great 2 ton long frame jack, if you pull you 911 engine a lot. It has a solid 32" of lift, and it usually costs $100 if you wait for a sale. Add in the Pelican Engine/Transmission Jack Adapter, and you can pull the E/T without removing your Webbers, and without a friend. See Picture. I've pulled mine about 20 times in the last 5 years, and I have to say I prefer pulling the E/T together. See Picture.

zman911 · 02-26-2003, 03:55 AM

That jack set up looks sweet!!

I FINALLY at got my engine AND transmission removed thanks to all the good advice. This was my virgin drop and I would absolutly recommend removing both at the same time....that would have save me 2 weekends and about 2 cases of beer.

BGCarrera32 · 03-05-2003, 06:51 AM

That jack set up looks sweet!!

Yeah, til' it gets bumped into...

zman911 · 03-05-2003, 07:04 AM

Yeah I agree and thought about that too. Im going with a stand.

jgparker · jgparker's Garage

I know it's hard to believe, but it is actually very stable with the adapter in place. I wouldn't want to pull it down the street this way, but you would have to force it to make it come off the jack. See picture.

snowman · 03-09-2003, 12:18 AM

I commend Wayne or anyone else who has the time and time and time and sweat to put into what it takes to make a book of any kind.

If it were not for people like this we would be in the dark ages.