The Canary Files: 69' 911T Engine rebuild with video

[kav]

Originally Posted by stanglife

Glad to see you're back. So sorry for your loss.

Thanks.

-Kav.

[kav]

Originally Posted by Neil Harvey

I just watched your video of the cam timing. Unless you did this for practice, you did a huge amount of un necessary work.


Piston to valve clearance checks. I think I have this written up on our web site about doing this.


This can be done when you first have the case bottom together. Fit up one cylinder with one piston and one head. No piston clips required at this stage. You will need a degree wheel fitted and before you fit the one head, TDC the degree wheel with your dial indictor directly on the piston.

Now fit the one head with the valves loose in the head. No springs. Hold the valves in place with a rubber band or similar. Don't worry about them falling , they will stop at the piston. Exactly what you are measuring.

Turn the engine until you have 20° BTDC. With the dial indicator on the tip of the valve, zero the indictor with the valve up against the valve seat. Now drop it slowly until it touches the piston. Record this number. Repeat this every 5 or 10° until you go past TDC and are at 20° ATDC. Do the same for the Exhaust valve. Now call your cam supplier and ask them for the valve lift at those same crank degrees at the timing you wish to use. They will know the Intake and Exhaust centerlines at the lift at TDC you may be wanting. They will also be able to tell you the valve lifts at those crank degrees. You subtract the numbers they tell you from what you measured and this is the clearance at each degree mark you used. If its too close, change the cam timing to suit or machine the pockets/change pistons.

This may seem long winded, but I promise you its far quicker than doing a full assembly, then taking it apart again. Once you have done the math on paper and established you have clearance, you build up the engine one time.

As for the cam timing way you did it, another way is to place the cams where the rocker is on the backside of the lobe, or I guess with the cams you are using, where the dots are up and down. Fit your rocker arm and do the lash as you did. Now turn the engine until you are approx. 90° BTDC. The more valve lift at TDC may require this position to be further from TDC. Put the pin into any hole and turn the cam until the dial indictor reads the lift you want. The engine wants to be BTDC. Pull the pin and slowly turn the engine until you are just before TDC. Find a hole close and insert the pin. Now turn the engine until you feel you have taken all of the play out of the pin in the hole. If you are not at TDC, try another hole. If you go past TDC, do the same but turn the engine back past TDC and then turn the engine clockwise making sure you take all of the chain slack out. This way, you are up against the pin in the hole and the cam is where you want it.

Another simple tip when turning the engine, use a long breaker bar. It makes the job a lot easier.

Hope this makes sense. Cam timing is the easiest part of building these engines and these engines have to be one of the easiest to time. Too much is made of this and has put unneeded fear into many. Just have to make the process easier and eliminate repeating, trying to get the number you want.

nh

Thanks Neil, that is another way of doing it that I was unaware of!

Cheers.

-Kav.

[reefdiver]

Kav,

Sorry to hear about your father. I know that/this is a difficult time as I lost my mother two weeks ago. Keep up the great work, it appears your Dad was proud of you and the work you've on the Cannery so far.

Paul

[icarp]

Kav, sorry for your loss, it is never easy . Maybe you can decide that your dad lives on through the joy you get from interacting with the Canary. Take the time to be in tune with your emotions and freely express them . I love your project
Ian

[Bigtoe32067]

Kav
Sorry for your loss and Godspeed to your dad. I lost my mom and dad some years and I think of them constantly.
I'd like to personally thank you for sticking with this and I know there are tons of people like me who are very appreciative of the time and effort you've put into this thread and hope you will continue.
Tony

[kav]

With the valve clearance checked I can seal up the longblock.

I made a little video of the process:



Appling the Loctite 574 to the cam housings



Torqued down the cam housing and then the heads.



Chain housings installed.



Curil-T on the camshaft housing end plates.



Thrust washer, shims, woodruff key, sprocket flange, cam sprockets and idler arms.



I set the timing again to 3.15mm for the E-cam.



Priming the hydraulic chain tensioners



I decided to upgrade to Supertec's bronze idler arm bushings, I had to check the timing again



Installed on the right side. (new o-ring not in this picture)



Chain housing covers installed.

[kav]

I sent my distributor to Kurt at Partskassik, he gave it a service and installed new points, rotor and cap.



Installed all the rockers and adjusted the valves



From TDC working my way around the firing order 1-6-2-4-3-5



New Spark plugs



New turbo lower valve covers and original uppers with the Porsche lettering sanded out



Oil cooler was pressure tested and hot tank dipped, a few bent fins....



Sump plate, oil adapter etc.



The completed longblock!




Cheers!

-Kav

[Derek77]

Very nice, look forward to seeing it run!

[stanglife]

Nice, Kav!

[1980 SC Targa]

Awesome as always Kav

[Trakrat]

This is still one of my favorite videos to watch. I'll never understand why there aren't more videos out there showing all the steps needed to build these engines?

I have a 3.2 and I've been putting off rebuilding my engine because I just don't feel confident yet in doing this by myself.
If I had a step-by-step instructional video that was complete and showed each and every process, I'd have my engine completed by now.

[kav]

Thanks Trakrat. Me too, there are a few video but not a series showing every step in detail. I think I’ve cut mine down to the bare minimum. I have tried not to leave anything out even if it gets a bit boring but I thought that was important.

Hope this helps in spurring you on to get your 3.2 done!

Cheers

-Kav

[ed mayo]

Kav, a couple questions, hard to tell from your rocker arm picture, but there are two points to watch for. The end of the rocker shaft should always be flush with the end of the narrow casting boss,(lay a spare shaft over the rocker and you'll see how it needs to center) and the 5 MM end of the shaft bolt should always be towards the middle of the engine, never towards either end of the engine. Once all the tin and cooler is on you would not be able to access that 5 MM end for service.

[Hcarraro]

Good work Kav thanks for sharing.

Henry

[kav]

My Weber 40 IDTP 3C1 triple barrel carburetors have been sitting patiently on the shelf for a few years. It's time I rebuild / upgrade them. I plan on cleaning them up, plating certain parts and upgrading the jets etc for my higher compression engine.

The Webers are the U.S. emissions version "40 IDTP 3C1" very much like the '40 IDA 3C" but with slightly different progression ports and jetting. I can do something about the jetting and may 'convert' them to IDA's if the throttle shafts need re-bushing but I will only know for sure when I run them on the car so ..... Here goes.... wish me luck.

I made a little video of the process:





Quite the mess.



Dirt and grime all over.



Intake Manifolds removed.



Air boxes and Velocity Stacks removed.



A quick clean in the parts washer before I do more teardown so I keep the dirt out of the passageways.



Removing the tops ready to strip them down all the way.



The carb stripped down.



The parts I'll send out for plating.



Everything organized per carb in these little compartment trays.



Cheers.

-Kav.

[Harpo]

Awesome documentation in your video and your posts here on the board. So sorry about your father.

David

[Robert59095]

Hi, Kav -

I rebuilt my 2.7 10.5:1 twin-plug last Winter. Watching your wonderful videos on your engine build was a warm recollection for me. I might add that I used my surface plate and sand paper on every surface that needs to keep oil in the engine, particularly the chain housings and the surface on the case. 2000 miles and no leaks, other than the fact that I am learning how to use the silicone valve cover gaskets. My friends that does lots of engines swears by them. He says 35 in-lb. on the nuts and he has never had a leak!

- Rob

[Iciclehead]

Originally Posted by Robert59095

Hi, Kav -

I rebuilt my 2.7 10.5:1 twin-plug last Winter. Watching your wonderful videos on your engine build was a warm recollection for me. I might add that I used my surface plate and sand paper on every surface that needs to keep oil in the engine, particularly the chain housings and the surface on the case. 2000 miles and no leaks, other than the fact that I am learning how to use the silicone valve cover gaskets. My friends that does lots of engines swears by them. He says 35 in-lb. on the nuts and he has never had a leak!

- Rob

I have wondered about doing that on my upcoming build.....did you also do the case halves and the cam carrier or just the smaller parts?

Dennis

[kav]

The parts are in and it's time to rebuild the Weber 40 IDTP 3C1 triple barrel carburetors (I hope I can remember where everything goes....)

I made a little video of the process:



Everything laid out and ready to go.



All the parts and new jets etc.



The plating turned out great!



Cleaned out all the passages with carb cleaner and nylon brushes etc.



installing the floats and setting them to the right height in the chamber.



Installing the chokes, I've gone too big I know it (34mm). I have 30mm coming.



The body of the carb complete.



The new velocity stacks look great! Shame to cover them up!



The before shot.



The after. I'm very happy with the way they turned out!




Cheers.

-Kav.

[doswald]

Nice work, Kav. The carbs look great. Who did you use for your plating?

dho