Hi Steve,
It can be tough to get that boot off if it's been on there for a long time. I removed the metal bands completely - careful you don't drop the screws from the clamps like I did! Then remove the breather hoses, one on the left rear, one on the right rear. The one on the right is a pain to undo the clamp because it's close to the fuel distributor but it's doable. Getting your hands in there to pull the hoses out of the boot is a pain but persevere.
I used a smooth blunt plastic spudge like you get from kits used to remove interior pieces so I couldn't poke a hole in it. I just poked it under the rim to get it started and it came off. I always love these shop books that say "remove air boot" like it's nothing.
Getting it back on again is even more fun especially if it's a new one ...
Hard lines do you mean all the fuel lines? I removed all of those and cleaned them up replacing all the aluminum crush washers. I also replaced all the small vacuum lines, injectors, injector seats, injector o-rings, cold start o-rings, rubber air box runner connectors, inlet gaskets. Basically anything rubber or gasket. Also replaced the main breather hose and the oil tank hoses. I replaced my oil pressure idiot light switch too. Tested the WUR, AAR, FD, FV, AAV, decel valve and pressure tested the airbox.
The 3 way rubber and metal hard lines on mine checked out fine with no cracks or splits. The bottom metal hard line on the 3 way tends to rub on the top of the plastic cover that's over the oil cooler and gets a hole in it so check for that. The rubber mounts on the air box wear out and sag causing the mentioned abrasion so replaced those. I ended up replacing my airbox anyway because it was cracked along the seal above the 4,5 & 6 ports. It's a good little project and well worth doing. Car purrs now.
Check out this thread:
Air leakage from intake manifold sleeves
G.