Air flow switch connection question

Steve F · 05-21-2016, 02:13 PM

As I was removing CIS ( 1981 SC) for air leak repairs, I could see that Air Flow switch connection wasn't connected at the top of the venturi. What would be the consequences in running with it being like that. To late for me to back up to test as I almost have it all out, boy is that fun.....NOT.

Thanks Steve

Steve F · 05-23-2016, 06:35 AM

Besides bringing this question to the top and and not wanting to create a bunch of threads, I would like to ask a few more while I have your attention please

I have the CIS on the bench to address air leaks.

First ...I don't want to destroy a $93 rubber boot ( wanted at
actually test it as it was) but it will not budge....any tips on removal? Heat gun?

Second...Should I remove all the hard lines or leave them as an assembly while replacing gaskets (FD so forth) and such?

Thanks much! Steve

T77911S · 05-23-2016, 06:56 AM

you should start your own thread. not polite to hijack

to the OP-
the FP will run with the key on and engine off.
I had mine off when I had bad residual pressure.

Steve F · 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T77911S

you should start your own thread. not polite to hijack

to the OP-
the FP will run with the key on and engine off.
I had mine off when I had bad residual pressure.

Thanks for reply.....I am the OP

So if I understand you, that connection was most likely on left off on purpose ?

Thanks again.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by T77911S

you should start your own thread. not polite to hijack

to the OP-
the FP will run with the key on and engine off.
I had mine off when I had bad residual pressure.

Ty,

My buddy from the south, you must have mistaken Steve as a "hijacker". He is the same guy who started the thread. It is a fact that you spent long hours as a traffic controller but Steve is not a hijacker. Just someone lost in midair seeking guidance to land safely. Just kidding.

Steve,

Aside from the disconnected AFS switch what other CIS problem/s are you having? I suggest that you read the post of DKLever48 about FP and FP relay operation. Almost everything you need to know how to test each terminals are discussed broadly in the thread.

Tony

Steve F · 05-23-2016, 07:24 AM

Thanks Tony, I will check that thread out

gazzerr · 07:51 AM

Hi Steve,

It can be tough to get that boot off if it's been on there for a long time. I removed the metal bands completely - careful you don't drop the screws from the clamps like I did! Then remove the breather hoses, one on the left rear, one on the right rear. The one on the right is a pain to undo the clamp because it's close to the fuel distributor but it's doable. Getting your hands in there to pull the hoses out of the boot is a pain but persevere.

I used a smooth blunt plastic spudge like you get from kits used to remove interior pieces so I couldn't poke a hole in it. I just poked it under the rim to get it started and it came off. I always love these shop books that say "remove air boot" like it's nothing.

Getting it back on again is even more fun especially if it's a new one ...

Hard lines do you mean all the fuel lines? I removed all of those and cleaned them up replacing all the aluminum crush washers. I also replaced all the small vacuum lines, injectors, injector seats, injector o-rings, cold start o-rings, rubber air box runner connectors, inlet gaskets. Basically anything rubber or gasket. Also replaced the main breather hose and the oil tank hoses. I replaced my oil pressure idiot light switch too. Tested the WUR, AAR, FD, FV, AAV, decel valve and pressure tested the airbox.

The 3 way rubber and metal hard lines on mine checked out fine with no cracks or splits. The bottom metal hard line on the 3 way tends to rub on the top of the plastic cover that's over the oil cooler and gets a hole in it so check for that. The rubber mounts on the air box wear out and sag causing the mentioned abrasion so replaced those. I ended up replacing my airbox anyway because it was cracked along the seal above the 4,5 & 6 ports. It's a good little project and well worth doing. Car purrs now.

Check out this thread:

Air leakage from intake manifold sleeves

G.

Steve F · 08:24 AM

Thank you gazzerr! I have it on the bench, and as you said, those 2 elbows in the rear were a real bugger, I have the CIS unit upside down getting the rubber rims soaked with WD-40. I will remove the bands and proceed as you suggested! Also, thanks for the detailed description of the "plumbing", just what I was looking for. Yes, I will replace all those parts mentioned, one of those' while you are in there" moments.

Thanks,Steve

Also....!
Air leakage from intake manifold sleeves GREAT thread!! Thanks!

gazzerr · 05-23-2016, 08:10 AM

Sure no probs! Good luck. You'll be happy when it's done. I always had a putt and putt and spitty misfire on mine when it idled. Those went away with the CIS rebuild I did.

T77911S · 05-23-2016, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Ty,

My buddy from the south, you must have mistaken Steve as a "hijacker". He is the same guy who started the thread. It is a fact that you spent long hours as a traffic controller but Steve is not a hijacker. Just someone lost in midair seeking guidance to land safely. Just kidding.

Steve,

Aside from the disconnected AFS switch what other CIS problem/s are you having? I suggest that you read the post of DKLever48 about FP and FP relay operation. Almost everything you need to know how to test each terminals are discussed broadly in the thread.

Tony

yea you are right.
I had to change my font to small and my eyes are messed up due to blood sugar and I did not notice it was the same person.
I cant see with or without my glasses....better without right now