Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > BMW Forums > BMW Technical Forums > BMW 3-Series E46 (1999-2005)


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3
330CI Shifting and Handling

I recently got a 05 330CI 6 speed manual. Previous car for many years was an E30 325e 5-speed manual with no mods. The new car is much better in many ways however I have noticed that the shifting is less "precise" and more "lazy". Compared to the E30, the E46 clutch pedal play seems long and because it has a light feel to it, there is less driver feedback.

The shifter has a lot of play also. I assume part of this is due to the 6 speed but the throws seem long and engaging the gears seem to lack the precise feel of the older car.

Would an after market shifter kit help? Any advice on the clutch pedal play and feel?

Would anyone know about differences in oversteer/understeer characteristics of the two cars?

__________________
SF
Old 01-30-2005, 01:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Jeron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: DFW (Hurst), Texas
Posts: 4,730
Garage
A short shift kit would help the throw length. Do the research there are many options and prices.

It probably has a CDV (clutch delay valve) which limits the quickness that the clutch can engage. You will notice it most on quick shifts but I noticed a difference during normal driving conditions after I removed it from my E36 M3. It doesnt change the play or feel only the enagagement.

I would expect the E46 to feel more subdued and refined than the E30. You wont be able to change the clutch feel much without putting in an aftermarket or upgraded clutch which is waste on a new car. I would put in a short shifter and remove the CDV.

If you have more questions or need clarification just ask. I have deatails on E36 CDV removal which should tranfer tothe E46. Also, I have some research on short shifters.
__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex)
Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima
Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4
Old 01-31-2005, 07:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3
Thank you, Jeron! You're right , the new car is much more refined. However there is less feedback. I would be interested in more info on the CDV and on what you found out about short shift kits.
__________________
SF
Old 02-05-2005, 02:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Jeron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: DFW (Hurst), Texas
Posts: 4,730
Garage
Articles on CDV removal:
http://www.bmw325i.net/cdv_removal.shtml
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm

CDV removal is easy but if you have to bleed your clutch after it is more difficult. Have some brake fluid on hand incase you have to bleed it.

Short shifter info:
http://www.understeer.com/shiftlever.shtml
http://www.understeer.com/onlinestore-shifters.shtml
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html

There is a ton on short shifter info out there but Ron Stygar has some of the best raw info. Understeer has several good price options. I like UCC products and have heard good things about their shifter.

My Notes on CDV:
CDV Valve Removal

The check valve on my 97 M3 was on the last bracket before the clutch slave cylinder.

You will need 11mm, 14mm and 17mm open end wrenches. Also a drain pan, a hose clamp or hose clamp substitute and possibly clutch bleeding equipment.

First, use the 14 and 17 to loosen the rubber hose from the CDV, don’t actually try to unscrew it just break it loose. Put the hose clamp on the rubber hose. Take the 11mm and remove the hard line nut on the slave side of the bracket. This nut actually is threaded onto the CDV which sticks through the bracket and acts as a stay. Once the nut is off the CDV will separate from the hard line and you can use the 14 and 17mm to finish removing the CDV from the rubber hose. Then stick the male fitting of the rubber hose through the bracket and attach the hard line going to the slave with the 11mm nut. Work quickly to reduce the chance of needing to bleed the clutch.

It’s a little messy because fluid will be leaking from the slave on the hard line side. Hopefully, afterward you will not have to bleed the clutch but be prepared just in case. Bleeding the clutch may require the removal of the slave and hand actuation of the slave piston.

__________________
HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex)
Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima
Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4
Old 02-07-2005, 10:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Reply


 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:06 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.