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newguy asks - R1100S models to avoid?
Howdy folks-
I'm thinking of buying an R1100S during the winter slowdown, and I was wondering if there was any concensus regarding which model years to avoid, if any. I don't *think* there are any, as the differences in the S line seem to be fairly small (twinspark vs singlespark, BCP, BCR) but if there's a known gotcha (like "Ohh, don't get the early 2002, it is known to eat its own transmission splines!") I'd love to know about it before droppin' the dough. I'm looking for a good deal on the bike I love the mostest, not a financial black hole. I'm not as rabid about ABS vs. non-ABS as some folks might be, though I realize to some that constitutes a "mental failure." ;) Lastly, I wanted to say I'm glad there are gun guys over here, makes the place a bit friendlier to me. (Hardballer stainless 1911, Springfield "loaded" M1A, self-assembled AR15 if you must know.) Hi Roger! SmileWavy I'll be out of town 'till the 27th so Emily will be bringing over the Hawk by her lonesome... and the R65LS feels great now, thanks! Anyway, thanks in advance for being nice to the new guy. - J. Dock |
Re: newguy asks - R1100S models to avoid?
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any before 1998...none were brought into the states ;)
they are all fun. repoe3 |
Hi Dock.
The changes are so small and evolutionary, that there's little to recommend one over another. ABS, and which generation thereof is the biggest difference, and of course just a personal pref thing. The cups/preps are no different except for cosmetics, shock length, and paralever length. That stability/agility tradeoff is also a personal pref / personal inseam issue. There have been few, and all just evolutionary changes along the years, so the newer the better (slightly nicer trans and brakes on the later ones). It's a matter of what you can spend. But even the earliest 99 to the current prep are all so close to one another that it's really down to the rider when one comes out on top over another. Most anything (abs and abs generation, the trans, and twin spark, with only the first of those mattering much) can be changed on any given year to make it behave like any given other year, in an afternoon. We're really splitting hairs on this one in my opinion. I'll try and drop Emily a line today and figure out getting the Hawk squeezed in. Both of my guys were out last week, and I pretty much lived at the office, day and night, so I need to catch up quick and make some space for her (assuming the springs and emulators arrive in time) Later Roger |
Its not what to avoid, its what you can maximize on the purchase for your dollars spent. Going from bone stock, to a bike that has been cared for yet with all the options: pipes, air, hard bags, chip, etc.
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All are good.
Only thing I was told about was the standard S (Prep?) as opposed to say an SA, was that they have smaller alternators, therefore, may not be able to handle the additional load of gobs of electric touring accessories available. Maybe you can confirm el Roger? |
Even the "smaller" alternators are big. Search the threads, JonyRR is running a "small" alternator on a non-ABS and loads the heck out of it.
I've got a very early '99 ABS, it's solid as a rock. Like the others have noted: buy as much bike as you can afford. Unless you are up in the air about models and aftermarket add-ons, then get a stock bike, read the threads, and make your own set of choices as to what to change to fit you better. Your physical size, strength and age, plus riding technique and type of riding will have as much to do with the mods you choose as anything (like you didn't already know that). Welcome to the club. No fancy hand shakes to learn. |
They never told you the secret handshake?
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...ya wanna join the club, don'y ya?...:)
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Welcome, J. Dock!
As you can see, they're all good. Let us know what kind of options or mods, if any, you'd want. ckcarr is right; if you want some extras you can save a bunch getting one with them already. Depending on your budget and if you're going to finance or not, a new one can be worth considering. I think there's 0.9% and 5 free payments now on the '04s, which have the desirable dual spark. PS - nice avatar... |
Stay away from Titanium Silver.
SmileWavy |
Re: Re: newguy asks - R1100S models to avoid?
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Ahoy Shannon! http://www.earthtrust.org/wlcurric/gif/whale6ed.gif |
I think that whale has an oil leak...
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Yeh, but I digs the paint scheme!
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J. Dock: Like the others have said, not many differences. Pick a price, color, and base options and look around.
With that being said, not knowing how old you are, driving history,e tc etc. Dont forget to check insurance, even though a 99 is the same as an 05 practically, the insurance costs are different. Most quotes I got put an 05 at double a 99-01. Though some people here are paying so little that its not an issue (punks!) Figure out what you want to do to the bike as well, for example, if you want aftermarket exhaust, etc. Try to find out with it, save you the $ of putting it on yourself. Ive ridden from stock 99s to modded 04 Replikas, no real differences in feel, noticed a few thigns that I like personally, and all are able to be done aftermarket (low bars, etc). Stay out of the 7-8k range, thats my market! ;) Goodluck. Matt |
Vette, see the For Sale section, dude.
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Fool! All whales leak oil. Why do think they were so easy for whalers to find?
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Hi Jay
You heared it all except for one thing and I will tell you even if doesn't make me the most popular guy.Get an ABS model because a BMW without ABS is a keeper when it comes to trade in/selling time... Chris |
Chris, your logic defies understanding...
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Chris,
WTF are you talking about. ....get an ABS model because a BMW without ABS is a keeper when..... . . Logic missing bro...... |
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