Another Peg Lowering Question :)

[2001Bee]

Guys, at 6'3" I gotta lower the pegs. Verholen gives me 2 options 30mm or 50mm. My questions are
1) If I go with the lower 50mm what will scrape in the turns first, boots, cylinder heads, pegs or what
2) The suburban machinery ones are 1.5inches down and .4 back, does the 1/2 inch more rearward make any difference?
They are about the same price and I hear the Verholen ones look a little neater on the bike.
Your expertise would help me make a wise decision.
Oh, I'm new to the board and have a 2001 Black and Yellow Bumble Bee as I call her.
Jon

[1100sGuy]

The Suburban's are great. Top quality construction and excellent directions. Total time 20-30 mins per side, brake side a bit longer. Best Mod I've done (besides Rapid's barbacks, his seat, his....???)

1100sguy

BTW, just added an 06 R1200GS to the stable...YEEEE HAAAW

[John Lyon]

If you want more leg room, how about raising the seat? I think the newer comfort(?) seat is thicker by an inch or two, and only costs $275(?).

[ExarKunONe]

I've got the suburban ones on my bike, heres some shots of the side of my bike. Maybe itll help.

[JonyRR]

I've looked at several solutions. I'm not too tall, but one knee is really hammered and it hurts like **ll to bend it over periods of time.
I first went with the suburban solution; it IS a quality item and completely turnkey if you're not a modder/fabber. I actually had 2 sets and ended up selling them both.
I made my own, 20MM lower and 10MM further forward than the suburban pieces. Got a piece of 1/4" 6061 T6 alu-m-inium plate from Boeing Surplus (a shadtree fabber's total paradise, literally almost anything can be found there but ya kinda have to be somewhat local to Seattle, WA to get there). Really, it was a quite simple deal and all the stock bolts and pieces can be used, with the possible exception of the shifter linkage; I just used a piece of 6MM stainless allthread cut to length.
If ya wanna see them, do a search here on 'crank vent and coils' and I believe the pix is at the bottom...

[ExarKunONe]

Only complaint I have about them is I do occasionally touch down on the street. At track days I'm dragging them around every corner like I'm trying to write my name.

[JonyRR]

hang off more. drag your knee instead of the cylinderhead. And perhaps obtain a dedicated track bike so when the inevitable toss-up-the-asphalt happens, it doesn't happen to an overpriced teutonic piece that's really spendy to fix and doesn't crash with aplomb either (instead of a fairing and slider, donkeybikes use their jugs *ouch, just saying that hurts*. Just a thought

[ExarKunONe]

Yeah but the donkeybikes are so much fun out there! I've never gotten my cyinder head down, I dont know if I could get that low without tearing my footpeg off. Maybe a short paralever arm and a better rear shock might help give me some clearance. yeah I do need a track bike though.

[JonyRR]

Oh, well, yeah then, you DO need a short para arm, and an adjustable-ride-height rear shock like an ohlins. You can get way more ground clearance that way. my '99 S completely stock, would touch a head guard down with alarming regularity If I didn't hang off. get that butt in the air!

[gdobler]

Anyone have the Wunderlich lowering kit? In the catalog they state you can lower by 13 or 40mm, but doesn't look like they move the pegs back. How do these compare with the Suburban Machinery?

[Hannibal Twin]

Kinda late to chime in on this one, but here it is anyways...

I recently installed the Suburban Machinery kit on my '94 R1100S Prep and absolutely love it. I think it was the best thing I could have done to make long rides way more endurable. I'm 6'4" and the new leg / footing geometry afforded by the revised peg position helps tremendously.

The only thing that I did tend to notice that isn't entirely positive is a shift in the weighting of my hips with the new peg position. With the lower and (IMHO) farther rearward position more weight from my torso is placed on the front of my hips while riding. Kind-of imagine being in the riding position then lean forward with your upper body slightly and pull your feet back a bit. The change in weighting doesn't really detrement the benefits of more legroom that much and I'm sure that a BMW comfort seat with a more level (less forward sloped) seating position would rectify the situation. That, by the way, is my next planned mod.

Overall the Suburban kit is well made, entirely useable and complete as shipped, and saves a lot of leg cramps.

Hope this was helpful.

[Rapid Dog]

...Suburban is the way to go for most peeps...good price, easy install...I doubt you'll have a problem dragging anything except your feet off the pegs in turns the first few clicks, but that will keep you from riding "toes-out" anyway...et usta riding toes on the pegs...

[bradzdotcom]

i know this is going to sound like a Ben B. solution but:
if you "borrow" the neighbor's electric carving knife, and get some foam from an upholstery shop (or crafts store), you can try out the higher seat solution without spending the $275 for the real one.

grab the foam, flip on the knife and carve away until you have a suitable piece. set it on the seat, sit on that mutha and put a hundred miles on it.

we used to do this in testing, especially during that period when we started extending the seat padding up the fuel tank on dirt bikes.
we used aerosol Spray Mount to hold the foam to the seat cover. wasn't pretty, but it works (and we had lots of seat covers). usually just sitting on it holds it in place.

at least it quickly tells you what will happen if you raise seat height. you can only go so far down with the pegs.

[roger albert]

I'm a short guy with bad knees that needed to lower the pegs rather than raise the seat. But, for a taller guy, I'd seriously look into the taller seat option first. The SM lowerers work well though. But I drag them on the street sometimes, (though not if hanging off). On the track, with even moderate speed and even with good body positioning, they'd be ground down by the end of a session or two. You'd have to go really slow, AND hang off a bunch to preserve lowered pegs on the track.

Otoh, with practice, you should be able to swap both sides in 30 minutes together. Way under an hour with even minimal experience.

I'd have reservations about 50mm lowering. They'd about have to hit before the jugs.

[acidburn]

O.K. im down, ordering now, yes this late 11/06.