R 1100s right timing chain guide problem

shad · 11-13-2006, 12:15 PM

I just bought my first BMW after years of Asian bikes and have a mechanical issue I am stumped by. It would appear that the charlatan I bought the bike from laid it down HARD on the right side. The cylinder was cracked. I have since replaced the cylinder and piston, but the upper (non-tensioner) timing chain guide was broken before the outer mounting bolt. I don't know if anyone has dealt with this before, but I am tring to see if there is a way to replace this without pulling the back end and clutch off. The end of the guide is an oval meant to slide on the inner pin. I am considering opening the end hole of the new guide and sliding it over the pin, since the outer pin hold the guide in lateral position. Sorry for the long post, but any opinions would be welcome.

R111S · R111S's Garage

Can you post a few pics for clarity?

Where is the breakage in this diagram?

R111S · R111S's Garage

Here's another diagram that might be usefull in your decision to cut open the oval loop...

shad · 11-13-2006, 07:56 PM

Best I can describe it is on the top diagram. Right cylinder in image, top chain guide. The guide is broken between the pin above the crank and the pin that inserts through the side of the right cylinder. For clarity, it is the cylinder with the tensioner on the bottom of the cylinder. I have a strong feeling that I will be tearing the back off the engine to get to the pin/bolt that anchors the end of the guide on the engine midline. BTW, I hve a 2001 R1100s and when I get this resolved I am going to put new tires on it. I currently have ME Z6s on it. Do you have any favorites? I am a fairly conservative rider, so I will be going with a touring tire. Thanks for the reply, any insight you have is appreciated

Steve Carlton · 11-13-2006, 08:12 PM

Good luck getting it fixed, shad. Sorry to hear you got cheated on the bike.

shad · 11-13-2006, 08:29 PM

I can't whine too loudly though. I absolutely love the bike. Moved from cruisers to the R111s because I got tired of spooky handling. It is amazing what technology, when embraced can do for a motorcycle. I got a great deal on the bike anyway and am only into it for less than $4500 right now with no other problems.

roger albert · 11-14-2006, 06:37 AM

Wish I could help Chad, but I don't know of any way to access the mounting bolt w/o removing the stuff in back. Not a big fan of slotting it either. You could end up with a much bigger job.
While you're in there, I'd recommend at least the transmission input seal.
The rear main seal wouldn't hurt either. Depending on mileage, maybe the friction disk too. You'll hate pulling it apart in another year or two to do much the same job over again.

R111S · R111S's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by shad
I currently have ME Z6s on it. Do you have any favorites?

ME Z6 is what I run on mine...my third set now and I'm completely satisfied with the traction in all temps/wet/dry and tread life (~8200 Miles). Others here claim they're not sticky enough and prefer Diablos, etc but wear out sooner I assume.

roger albert's advice is certainly worth heeding. Opening that slot may weaken that end of the guide so that it may ultimately fail as well.

It's probably a good idea to bleed the Brakes/Clutch, change all Oils/Filter, and change the Fuel Filter as well.

Check the Rear Brake Pad Thickness...when they get thin the pucks are out further and tend to get sticky, start dragging the pads, and finally overheating the rotor. New repalcement EBC HH Pads work great.

Air Filter should be checked/replaced, Valves adjusted, Throttle Bodies sync'd, new Spark Plugs (Autolite 3923s), etc.

Check the Swing Arm for looseness...replace the bearings in the Para-Lever Pivot Joints too.

I know this list is getting long but the person you got this MC from seems less than honest and therefor the care/keeping on the bike may be suspect as well...give it a good thorough going over so that you can ride with peace of mind.

samlee · 11-26-2006, 07:55 PM

Shad,
Sorry to say, but you won't be able to do the repair with out splitting the crankcase. The circlip washer on the pin is internal to the case when the assembly is laid in the machined grove. Both sets of washers and circlips serve to anchor the asembly from moving forward and backward.
I know this because I am in the process of rebuilding my first modern bike which is a black 1999 S which now will have an R1150 motor with cams, porting and polshing, chip and exhaust. I am currently building the bike back up. A broken cam chain tensioner rail was one of the problems of the original motor. I have finished the R1150 motor that I am putting in my bike and nearly finished the R1100s motor which I have refreshed everything on and balanced the rods and pistons. I will be looking to sell this motor once it is finished.

If you want to try to do this job yourself, you can get in touch with me directly at sam.lee.slee@gmail.com and I can give you the ins and outs of doing it as well as let you know about special tools, etc that you may need.

One big eye opener for me was that unlike the R75/5 I restored, the motor does not just pop out of the frame. The entire bike must be disassembled away from the motor to split the cases so you are looking at a significant investment in time and sweat assuming you already have the tools and the space.
Best of luck,
Sam