Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
  We salute a legendary member of the community.
Thank you for selflessly sharing your wisdom with us...
Go Back   Pelican Parts Technical BBS > 2- BMW Forums > BMW Technical Forums > BMW R1100S / R1200S Tech Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
OT-need advice on vmax problem

As some of you might seen in an earlier post I have been rebuilding a vmax I bought last year. When I bought the bike it had some major missing issues and upon inspection found dead mice in the air filter and rust all over the gas tank.

Well now after thousands of dollars spent I still have a bigtime miss issue.

The miss happens during full throttle conditions around 4500 rpms. This miss happens with or without vboost connected (for those familiar with the max) The miss feels like it is hitting a rev limiter and the vmax has no rev limiter.

I have replaced everything and feel like the problem HAS TO BE ELECTRICAL at this point. Among the things replaced are:

Carbs replaced with 05 carbs that are clean and tuned

All new spark plugs with coils over plugs mod

Gas tank stripped and epoxy sealed

New voltage regulator

New Ignition Box

Fuel Pump checked

Fuel filter replaced

Valves Adjusted


I need help! I took the bike to Iowa and the guy I have working on it is stumped at this point just like I was when I took it to him.

I figure with all the knowledge on this board someone could help point us in the right direction. I really feel like it has to be electrical in nature. It's definetly not the carbs.

Here is a link to a very long thread about this subject on the vmax forum.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=6291

I realize this is probably a shot in the dark but I hope someone can give us a good guess.

Thanks!
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-13-2009, 08:28 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Western NY
Posts: 4,103
I quickly scanned the VM forum, but was not up to reading 10+ pages so I will throw in my 2 cents.

3 things needed, Air, fuel and spark (along with compression)

Air should be easy, check for restrictions. Misfire or Bog, is it a "clean" drop or just flattens its power, LISTEN as well as feel what is happening. is it steady, or does it feel like it is curring in and out? Does it get better if the choke/enrichment circuit is on, or partially on?

You said full throttle only, does it get better if you roll back to 3/4 or 1/2 throttle?

I will assume that it uses a paired ignition, meaning that each coil/trigger set fires 2 plugs. If that is true, to check if one set might not be working correctly you need to figure out which "set" might be misfiring. Go ride the bike and make the problem happen for as long as you can, then hit the kill switch, and stop in a safe place as quick as possible. Next LICK your fingers and Quickly brush the exhaust pipe from each cylinder and see if there is a noticeable temp difference, this will tell you WHICH cylinders are not working. that is key to eliminating what is might NOT be.

You said new plugs, but is the problem the same before and after??? I have seen many a bad plug from new, and high load misfires are the most common result.

I have found many an odd problem in my years, the one head scratcher that sounds most like your problem, was from an 70's Suzuki 2 stroke triple, full throttle bog , but back off and it pulled good. It had been to other dealers before they brought it to the place I worked. Ignition, and carbs had all been replaced/rebuilt multiple times. Turned out that in the airbox there were rubber velocity stacks where it attached to the carbs, and one was 'soft" so that the vacuum/airflow was collapsing it at full throttle, but it would return to normal shape when you looked at it.
__________________
Richard 2010 F800GS '04 R11BXA, '01 F650GS, '98 CBR600F3 track bike, '75 RE-5, '76 RE-5, '81 GS400E.
Also residing in the barn my son's bikes:
'89 GS500ES, Ducati Monster 620 dark

Last edited by PFFOG; 03-14-2009 at 06:39 AM..
Old 03-14-2009, 06:37 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Living on borrowed time!
 
JonyRR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 6,901
You said you changed the coils and ignition box.
What about the PULSER coils?

thye're the pickup coils for the ignition; they work in conjunction with the ignition rotor, the analog to a set of points.
I've seen many a bad one.
__________________
Better a has-been than a wanna-be
Injection is nice but I'd rather be blown
bottles are not just for babies.....
1999 R1100S;1999 KTM 380EXC street-legal motard
WASCO-framed XR883 (ex Natl#25 Todd Bowne's)
Old 03-14-2009, 06:43 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
SQUID--the other red meat
 
Clutch Cargo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Aurora, OH
Posts: 118
inspect/replace all fuel and vacuum lines. 1985 is a long time ago. not familiar with 85 vmax - does it have a fuel petcock? is yours the nitrous bike? any leaks? compression test?

my .01 (.02 adjusted to current economic conditions)
__________________
Mike C.
'03 BCR 117
'82 R100RT (mostly)
Old 03-14-2009, 11:04 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 128
I'd start with pickup/pulsar coils and then ohm each wire from there to the end point. It sounds somewhat like a high resistance in the wire (dirt, poor connection). Also, make absolutely sure that all ground points, engine, coils, plugs read to ground and there is no corrosion at any connections or mounting points.
I had an 89 FJ1200 that began to give me problems and found that the wiring inside the major loom had corroded resulting in poor connections. After looking at some of the Yamaha methods of wire connection, I was amazed it hadn't happened sooner.
The only way to find it was ohm it out, or cut the loom open and visually inspect it, I'd still ohm it out as a preferred method. You'll need a wiring diagram to do it correctly. You'll know something is amiss if you spot any green connections (corroded copper). Corrosion can be a big headache, especially in wetter climates. Also, be on the look out for wire chafing, not just to the frame but also within the loom itself, wire to wire.
When you put it back together, clean all connections, and use dielectric grease at all connectors to help prevent corrosion.
Sometimes, you can trouble shoot faster by disconnecting systems. Try starting with anything that is on while the engine is running, lights, brakes lights, running lights, and the tach. Do this one at a time, to see what the affect is, if any. I have seen a fuel pump feed back through the tach and blow main fuses, again on the Yamaha FJ.
Old 03-14-2009, 03:44 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
unsafe at any speed
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 10,287
On the Yamahas, it is also good to disconnect the tach for troubleshooting purposes (grey wire) and see if that makes a difference. Tach runs off of only one of the coils and if the tach is bad, it will draw too much current, and can cause some problems like you are experiencing, by cutting out the spark.....
__________________
Bill Swartzwelder
2006 BMW R1200GS
2010 KTM 690 ENDURO R
1969 BSA StarFire

Last edited by wswartzwel; 03-14-2009 at 06:12 PM..
Old 03-14-2009, 05:19 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeskino View Post
I quickly scanned the VM forum, but was not up to reading 10+ pages so I will throw in my 2 cents.

3 things needed, Air, fuel and spark (along with compression)

Air should be easy, check for restrictions. Misfire or Bog, is it a "clean" drop or just flattens its power, LISTEN as well as feel what is happening. is it steady, or does it feel like it is curring in and out? Does it get better if the choke/enrichment circuit is on, or partially on?

You said full throttle only, does it get better if you roll back to 3/4 or 1/2 throttle?

I will assume that it uses a paired ignition, meaning that each coil/trigger set fires 2 plugs. If that is true, to check if one set might not be working correctly you need to figure out which "set" might be misfiring. Go ride the bike and make the problem happen for as long as you can, then hit the kill switch, and stop in a safe place as quick as possible. Next LICK your fingers and Quickly brush the exhaust pipe from each cylinder and see if there is a noticeable temp difference, this will tell you WHICH cylinders are not working. that is key to eliminating what is might NOT be.

You said new plugs, but is the problem the same before and after??? I have seen many a bad plug from new, and high load misfires are the most common result.

I have found many an odd problem in my years, the one head scratcher that sounds most like your problem, was from an 70's Suzuki 2 stroke triple, full throttle bog , but back off and it pulled good. It had been to other dealers before they brought it to the place I worked. Ignition, and carbs had all been replaced/rebuilt multiple times. Turned out that in the airbox there were rubber velocity stacks where it attached to the carbs, and one was 'soft" so that the vacuum/airflow was collapsing it at full throttle, but it would return to normal shape when you looked at it.
The plugs have been replaced probably about 6 times. The choke has NO affect on it. Throttle position does matter. It seems to happen at full throttle only and always around 4500 rpms, it then acts as if it is hitting a rev limiter, then recovers and does it again after a short burst.

Compression in the motor is excellent (all cylinders 165-170). The airbox has been replaced with an intake muscle kit AND I replaced every rubber boot on the bike which cost me a fortune.
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 06:17 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonyRR View Post
You said you changed the coils and ignition box.
What about the PULSER coils?

thye're the pickup coils for the ignition; they work in conjunction with the ignition rotor, the analog to a set of points.
I've seen many a bad one.

I replaced the coils and ignition. I then replaced the coils with the COP (coils over plugs mod).
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 06:19 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutch Cargo View Post
inspect/replace all fuel and vacuum lines. 1985 is a long time ago. not familiar with 85 vmax - does it have a fuel petcock? is yours the nitrous bike? any leaks? compression test?

my .01 (.02 adjusted to current economic conditions)
I replaced all the fuel and vaccum lines. Compression is excellent (165-170 all cylinders)
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 06:19 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by blutruck1 View Post
I'd start with pickup/pulsar coils and then ohm each wire from there to the end point. It sounds somewhat like a high resistance in the wire (dirt, poor connection). Also, make absolutely sure that all ground points, engine, coils, plugs read to ground and there is no corrosion at any connections or mounting points.
I had an 89 FJ1200 that began to give me problems and found that the wiring inside the major loom had corroded resulting in poor connections. After looking at some of the Yamaha methods of wire connection, I was amazed it hadn't happened sooner.
The only way to find it was ohm it out, or cut the loom open and visually inspect it, I'd still ohm it out as a preferred method. You'll need a wiring diagram to do it correctly. You'll know something is amiss if you spot any green connections (corroded copper). Corrosion can be a big headache, especially in wetter climates. Also, be on the look out for wire chafing, not just to the frame but also within the loom itself, wire to wire.
When you put it back together, clean all connections, and use dielectric grease at all connectors to help prevent corrosion.
Sometimes, you can trouble shoot faster by disconnecting systems. Try starting with anything that is on while the engine is running, lights, brakes lights, running lights, and the tach. Do this one at a time, to see what the affect is, if any. I have seen a fuel pump feed back through the tach and blow main fuses, again on the Yamaha FJ.
We did the OHM check and that looked good BUT I feel like you could be correct on corrosion somewhere in the wire loom.

The guy I have working on the bike now is actually swapping they entire electrical loom on the bike.

He did mention that is was consistently popping a fuse.

The last thing he wrote on the forum was the following:

o.k. just swapped the fuel pumps and I'm not sure what to think... We may be looking at 2 seperate problems. First, with the fuel switch in the 'on' position it will miss and spit and sputter like it is running out of fuel... I think it is. I switch it to the reserve and the fuel pump kicks on and things go back to the normal 4k-6k rpm miss. So what does it mean if the engine is off, but the ignition is on, the fuel switch is in the "on" position and the fuel pump doesn't click. I switch it over to reserve and the fuel pump starts to pump/click. Is that a bad relay? I'm going to hold off on the beers until I can get a few more test rides in.

HELP!!!!
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 06:26 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel View Post
On the Yamahas, it is also good to disconnect the tach for troubleshooting purposes (grey wire) and see if that makes a difference. Tach runs off of only one of the coils and if the tach is bad, it will draw too much current, and can cause some problems like you are experiencing, by cutting out the spark.....
I will definetly mention this to him. THANKS!

By the way whoever gets this thing running is getting a $50.00 outback gift card.

Keep the suggestion coming!
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 06:28 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #11 (permalink)
Ghost Spoiler
 
chewie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: East Gippsland, Australia
Posts: 3,050
Garage
You came across a mass mouse murder scene with this bike right?

The ghost of the v-max mice - that's your problem the ghost stirs at 4500rpm

Jeepers, some of you guys need to take a reality check, it's soo obvious that this is the issue!















sorry - good luck!
Old 03-14-2009, 06:41 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #12 (permalink)
 
Now Available for Ordering:   101 Projects For Your BMW 3 Series 1982-2000  [more info]
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewie View Post
You came across a mass mouse murder scene with this bike right?

The ghost of the v-max mice - that's your problem the ghost stirs at 4500rpm

Jeepers, some of you guys need to take a reality check, it's soo obvious that this is the issue!















sorry - good luck!
This thing will have about 10 ghosts then! I guess i'm in some deep ****!
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-14-2009, 07:19 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 128
On the Yamaha FJ 1200 I had, the fuel pump relay was to turn the pump on only (supply power). The fuel pump itself has a pressure switch built into the pump and would run until pressure shut it off. This is on an 89 FJ1200 and I don't know if a VMax uses the same setup, but I would suspect it does since without the pressure switch the carb float needles will be overwhelmed at any pressure above 1-2 psi.
So, if the fuel pump runs on reserve it may not be getting fuel, and may getting fuel in the "ON" position, pressurizing the line and shutting the pump off.
I would start by insuring that your fuel pump actually pumps fuel in both "res" and "on". Once you have actual fuel flow, stick you're finger over the end and see if the pump shuts off, I believe it should, once again experience with the FJ talking here.
You mention turning the fuel pump "ON" and it sounds like it's been wired through another switch rather than the original design using the ignition switch, is this correct? Is this the original Yamaha fuel pump or is a low pressure fuel pump designed for a car? If it doesn't contain a pressure shut off switch, not just a regulator, then you may be flooding the carbs since it's extremely easy to force fuel past the stock float needles, especially if the pump never shuts off. ( I know this because I tried to replace the expensive Yamaha pump with a 2 psi pump and it doesn't work). Also, the stock pump will flood the carbs if the pressure switch fails in the "on" position.
If none of the above applies, then you've a definite electrical problem somewhere else. I would start by disconnecting systems, running engine and seeing if this has any effect. If one particular system does affect it, then you'll know where to concentrate troubleshooting. Don't forget to disconnect the fuel pump circuit.
If this doesn't work, I would remove the battery, disconnect EVERYTHING from the loom and begin ohming wires, from end point to end point and also, from end point to the frame or any ground. Also, if a single wire runs into a multiple pin connector, make sure that you go from the single wire end point to each of the pins in the connector and insure that you have no shorts wire to wire within the connector. This could indicate either bad connector or shorting of wires in the wire loom.
You'll have to use a wiring diagram since the grounds are often in the connectors and you'll want to make sure that those grounds actually are grounds. Check your battery cables too. You should have very little resistance, if any on individual wires, end point to end point, no more than maybe 50, if that. You should have no resistance to any ground for any ground wire. You should have infinite resistance between wires not on the same circuit and between ground.
A new loom may help or not, depending on the age and abuse it has been subjected to. Often, wires wear through insulation at points where they are tied to the frame, cause by engine vibes and pulling on wires during maintenance or tinkering. Failures are common at stess points (steering head, under the seat, etc) anywhere the loom is exposed to movement, and people poking at it. (People poking things ain't good.)
Don't forget to check your ignition and kill switch, the contacts may be tight enough to run but loose enough to vibrate intermittently. Replace all the fuses with new, old fuses can look peachy and be vibrating causing poor contact.
I would look very closely at your conversion of the coils to coil on plug. They may be arcing to the metal around the plug (head) if they aren't fully insulated, or they may be have a poor contact at the coil connection itself. If possible, try swapping back and see if results change.
One other thing, what fuse is it blowing? That would be helpful.
Hope this gives you some ideas/help.
Old 03-15-2009, 12:55 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by blutruck1 View Post
On the Yamaha FJ 1200 I had, the fuel pump relay was to turn the pump on only (supply power). The fuel pump itself has a pressure switch built into the pump and would run until pressure shut it off. This is on an 89 FJ1200 and I don't know if a VMax uses the same setup, but I would suspect it does since without the pressure switch the carb float needles will be overwhelmed at any pressure above 1-2 psi.
So, if the fuel pump runs on reserve it may not be getting fuel, and may getting fuel in the "ON" position, pressurizing the line and shutting the pump off.
I would start by insuring that your fuel pump actually pumps fuel in both "res" and "on". Once you have actual fuel flow, stick you're finger over the end and see if the pump shuts off, I believe it should, once again experience with the FJ talking here.
You mention turning the fuel pump "ON" and it sounds like it's been wired through another switch rather than the original design using the ignition switch, is this correct? Is this the original Yamaha fuel pump or is a low pressure fuel pump designed for a car? If it doesn't contain a pressure shut off switch, not just a regulator, then you may be flooding the carbs since it's extremely easy to force fuel past the stock float needles, especially if the pump never shuts off. ( I know this because I tried to replace the expensive Yamaha pump with a 2 psi pump and it doesn't work). Also, the stock pump will flood the carbs if the pressure switch fails in the "on" position.
If none of the above applies, then you've a definite electrical problem somewhere else. I would start by disconnecting systems, running engine and seeing if this has any effect. If one particular system does affect it, then you'll know where to concentrate troubleshooting. Don't forget to disconnect the fuel pump circuit.
If this doesn't work, I would remove the battery, disconnect EVERYTHING from the loom and begin ohming wires, from end point to end point and also, from end point to the frame or any ground. Also, if a single wire runs into a multiple pin connector, make sure that you go from the single wire end point to each of the pins in the connector and insure that you have no shorts wire to wire within the connector. This could indicate either bad connector or shorting of wires in the wire loom.
You'll have to use a wiring diagram since the grounds are often in the connectors and you'll want to make sure that those grounds actually are grounds. Check your battery cables too. You should have very little resistance, if any on individual wires, end point to end point, no more than maybe 50, if that. You should have no resistance to any ground for any ground wire. You should have infinite resistance between wires not on the same circuit and between ground.
A new loom may help or not, depending on the age and abuse it has been subjected to. Often, wires wear through insulation at points where they are tied to the frame, cause by engine vibes and pulling on wires during maintenance or tinkering. Failures are common at stess points (steering head, under the seat, etc) anywhere the loom is exposed to movement, and people poking at it. (People poking things ain't good.)
Don't forget to check your ignition and kill switch, the contacts may be tight enough to run but loose enough to vibrate intermittently. Replace all the fuses with new, old fuses can look peachy and be vibrating causing poor contact.
I would look very closely at your conversion of the coils to coil on plug. They may be arcing to the metal around the plug (head) if they aren't fully insulated, or they may be have a poor contact at the coil connection itself. If possible, try swapping back and see if results change.
One other thing, what fuse is it blowing? That would be helpful.
Hope this gives you some ideas/help.
Awesome! Thanks...
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-15-2009, 05:57 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #15 (permalink)
Moderator
 
roger albert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX. USA
Posts: 11,604
> Throttle position does matter. It seems to happen at full throttle only and always around 4500 rpms,


That is VERY likely a carb/fuel/air issue, and very unlikely electric or resistive. IF electric, then only a connection somewhere that vibrates/loosens due to some resonance at 4500 rpm.
That's not a given, of course, but treating the carbs/air/fuel as known-good doesn't seem wise in this case.

Why?

Throttle position dependent issues are almost never electric (on older bikes w/o TPS, that is)

How confident are you on this plug/cap mod though? Things that hacked from normal can have a lot of unintended consequences, so I'm less sure of my diagnosis than usual, but, in general, misfires that are throttle angle/height dependent don't point toward electrics.
__________________
99 R11S w/ BBP, InDuct, Íhlins, PVMs, Braking, SJ-Filter, ZTech, HIDs
D675 R90Cafe R60/2 M900 SV650-SS CBR150R XR125 & CRF175 Motards


OnRoad OffRoad Cycles, Austin, TX: BMW, Ital, Suspension, Electrics
Dealer for K-Tech, JRI, GP Suspension, Penske, Íhlins, RaceTech, Elka, Wilbers, IKON & Works
www.ororcycle.com

CMRA EXPERT #841
Various Formula 5, 6 & 7 championships 2006-2012

A3, Navigator,
Old 03-16-2009, 11:29 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger albert View Post
> Throttle position does matter. It seems to happen at full throttle only and always around 4500 rpms,


That is VERY likely a carb/fuel/air issue, and very unlikely electric or resistive. IF electric, then only a connection somewhere that vibrates/loosens due to some resonance at 4500 rpm.
That's not a given, of course, but treating the carbs/air/fuel as known-good doesn't seem wise in this case.

Why?

Throttle position dependent issues are almost never electric (on older bikes w/o TPS, that is)

How confident are you on this plug/cap mod though? Things that hacked from normal can have a lot of unintended consequences, so I'm less sure of my diagnosis than usual, but, in general, misfires that are throttle angle/height dependent don't point toward electrics.

Latest scoop is that there was funky splicing in my headlight area (which is the biggest source of power on the vmax). When the headlight fuse was pulled the bike ran ALOT better but still not perfect. The guy working on the bike is nearly certain that somewhere in the electrical system SOMETHING is taking more power than it should thus causing the major miss. He attempted to put a used harness off an 86 max (mine is an 85) and it was not the same believe it or not!

The saga continues!
__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-23-2009, 05:37 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Western NY
Posts: 4,103
You might want to check grounds, ALL of them, including from the engine to the chassis and battery to chassis. Grounds are frequently taken for granted when troubleshooting electrical issues.

Possibly hook a volt meter to the actual wires, both power AND ground, at the ignition box and coils.
__________________
Richard 2010 F800GS '04 R11BXA, '01 F650GS, '98 CBR600F3 track bike, '75 RE-5, '76 RE-5, '81 GS400E.
Also residing in the barn my son's bikes:
'89 GS500ES, Ducati Monster 620 dark
Old 03-23-2009, 07:04 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #18 (permalink)
Moderator
 
roger albert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX. USA
Posts: 11,604
> Grounds are frequently taken for granted when troubleshooting electrical issues.

VERY true. If it seems weird, it's often a ground. The tracking with the throttle position still seems odd, but you can't argue with the headlight having an effect
__________________
99 R11S w/ BBP, InDuct, Íhlins, PVMs, Braking, SJ-Filter, ZTech, HIDs
D675 R90Cafe R60/2 M900 SV650-SS CBR150R XR125 & CRF175 Motards


OnRoad OffRoad Cycles, Austin, TX: BMW, Ital, Suspension, Electrics
Dealer for K-Tech, JRI, GP Suspension, Penske, Íhlins, RaceTech, Elka, Wilbers, IKON & Works
www.ororcycle.com

CMRA EXPERT #841
Various Formula 5, 6 & 7 championships 2006-2012

A3, Navigator,
Old 03-23-2009, 08:47 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BMWRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,002
MY FRIEND IN IOWA MAY HAVE FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!

The bike has a completly fried stator on it! Here are the pics below of the stator! It is the only thing that has not been checked or replaced at this point and my friend told me this would explain my hesitation on startup as well. He also thinks that this is most likely the reason I am experiencing the miss in the rpm's!

I am not familiar with this part...does anyone think this could be the problem? We will find out soon enough but I sure hope it is!










__________________
2014 Shelby GT500
Throttle Body, Tune, Pulley
711RWHP 718RWTQ
Old 03-30-2009, 06:52 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #20 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:27 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.