Molykote paste on front axle...

[moze229]

OK, I'm getting ready to reinstall the front wheel on the R11S and the service manual tells me to apply a thin coat of Molykote paste to the axle. Can I get this stuff locally or is there something else I can use? What does everyone else use? I'd almost try to get away with what was already on there, but I'm a moron and got crap all over it so now I have to wipe clean and redo. Thanks!

Matt

[SergioK]

Hmm... so thats what that stuff was. I never actually applied new stuff to the front axle of either of my R1100S's... I suppose if I followed the book I would have. Then again, the stuff that was on there for all those years just stayed there. I'm sure your local Napa auto parts would carry any equivalent. Any anti-seize compound should work.

[cageyar]

You can get a tube of Honda Moly 60 paste at any Honda motorcycle dealership.
I mix it 50/50 with a high quality high temp wheel bearing grease to maintain the moisture since the straight paste can get a little dry over time. Same for my FD splines. It's good stuff and not very expensive at about $8.

[Jamikest]

Molykote paste has always translated to me as 'anti-seize' paste.

MOLYKOTE® P-37 ANTISEIZE PASTE

But, Molykote is a registered trademark of a line of lubes/greases/anti-seizes.. so thats rather vague :P

[moze229]

Thanks for the info guys! So, I'll be off to the shop tomorrow if I can find the time. I need to get that wheel back on there.

Matt

[RBMann]

Any grease will work pretty well. It is just there to help it slide and cut down on the rust.

[moze229]

Originally Posted by RBMann

Any grease will work pretty well. It is just there to help it slide and cut down on the rust.

I was just going to throw some regular grease on there, but wasn't sure. It seems like it may pick up more grime than the paste, I don't know. I'm not going to be overly worried about it. I'll probably just use regular grease and see what happens.

Matt

[cageyar]

Greases like oils and lubes, are available in a variety of grades.
While Mr. RBMann's advice is realistic, especially given his high mileage R1100S, you should try and make sure your choice is rated NLGI2, the grade for "normal" grease per the National Lubricating Grease Institute....yes, that's what it's called.
I'd choose a synthetic based NLGI2, like a Mobil 1 or some other decent brand.
I'd also say invest in the Moly 60 paste which you'll need for your final drive splines anyway and mix some in with the grease.
Then you can sleep the sound slumber of the truly obsessive lubricant as your axle will be well greased and corrosion free.

[moze229]

Originally Posted by cageyar

Then you can sleep the sound slumber of the truly obsessive lubricant as your axle will be well greased and corrosion free.

That would be best, and sounds exactly like me. Unfortunately, I've just used 'regular' grease for now. Going back and reading, I neglected to bounce the front before I tightened the pinch bolts so I may get the correct lube and reinstall anyway.

BTW - the spacer on the left (looking from the front of the bike) is much smaller than the one on the right. I know I'm not missing a spacer, but it just doesn't look right. Since the axle is slightly larger in diameter on the end with the smaller spacer, is my theory correct when thinking that when one tightens the axle bolt, that it pulls the collar of the larger part of the axle against the smaller spacer, keeping the wheel in position? Does that make any sense?

Matt

[squall_line]

Yes, the spacers are different sizes. This is to account for the ABS sensor, and to make people paranoid about their wheel being slightly off-center.

I think it also has something to do with ensuring that the front and rear wheels are slightly off-set, as well as some other obscure engineering reasons.

But, yes, once you tighten the bolt on the end of the axle, everything should snug up into place, as the axle can only travel so deep into the fork, and the spacers keep everything else at a set width to keep the forks aligned vertically and the ABS ring at the right distance from the ABS sensor.

[moze229]

Originally Posted by squall_line

Yes, the spacers are different sizes. This is to account for the ABS sensor, and to make people paranoid about their wheel being slightly off-center.

I think it also has something to do with ensuring that the front and rear wheels are slightly off-set, as well as some other obscure engineering reasons.

But, yes, once you tighten the bolt on the end of the axle, everything should snug up into place, as the axle can only travel so deep into the fork, and the spacers keep everything else at a set width to keep the forks aligned vertically and the ABS ring at the right distance from the ABS sensor.

Thanks. I wan't really paranoid about off-center, but rather the wheel wandering around on the axle. Once it's installed, it's really hard to see that the axle is holding the wheel aligned on the left side (looking from the front). It's just strange looking because there is a regular spacer on the right. The one on the left isn't really a spacer if you ask me, at least that's not what I would call it. I'm not a BMW engineer though.

Matt

[squall_line]

I wouldn't necessarily call that thin stamped piece of metal a "spacer", either, more like a "gravel guard for wheel bearings"

But still, very little reason to be worried about crushing it or anything. AFAIK, the end-bolt on the axle will bottom out before crushing anything. That's why the pinch-bolts are there - to hold the axle in place once it's all snugged up.